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Description

Unfortunately, Wallaby wall is located entirely within defence (Commonwealth) land.

Access issues inherited from Mt Stuart

Visiting climbers are advised that a significant proportion of the cliffs lie in Department of Defence (Army) land. Trespassing on defence land is an offense. The Townsville City Council (TCC) controlled cliffs require a permit for climbing and/or abseiling. Do not park too close to the gate else your car may be moved. During the year, the car club holds races on the mountain road; during this time road access is closed. Mark Gommers is negotiating with the TCC to remove certain onerous restrictions such as a permit and indemnity insurance.

Ethic inherited from Mt Stuart

Installation of permanent anchors (eg bolts) is not permitted on City Council land or Department of Defence (Army) land. Take all rubbish with you. - Be aware of loose rocks and other climbers who could be below you.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Starts on the L arete of the main block. Climb blocky section of the rock on natural gear to the arete. Move up clipping 1 FH on the face, two or three pumpy moves will see you to horizontal ledge and a vertical crack. Keep climbing to your R on natural gear and finish as per Crucifixion.

FA: Nathan Bolton & Brad Mann, 1999

Start 3m to the R of Hailstone. Start off the 2m high block, take care or a stick to clip the first FH. Move up and clip the second FH, rest, then good footwork and a R-hand pinch grip will see you through the crux and clipping third FH. Layback to jug and forth FH. Now it's time to get into the groove where a couple of wires will see you through to the top and a DBB.

FA: Andrew Thorogood & Simon Thorogood, 1999

A varied climb that starts 2m right of Crucifixion. Up placing wire in layback crack, before moving up to clip a FH. A sloping mantle ledge will see you up to some natural gear placements. Up R to roof. Clip second FH over this and move up onto the blank face clipping third FH. Head to arete placing some gear at the horizontal break and up to forth FH, then to huge rest ledge. Two more FH and some good footwork with a couple of flakes for your hands will see you through the second cruxy section to exit.

FA: Andrew Thorogood & Brad Mann, 1999

An excellent face and roof climb. Start as per Resurrection but climb slightly L after the first FH to the first small roof. Pull up over the roof, climb the face place small wires in crack until the second small roof. Same again but this time climb all the way to the DBB of Crucifixion.

FA: Nathan Bolton & Steve Moore, 1999

Start by going R but climb straight up after the first FH placing natural gear all the way to a small roof. Climb over the roof and head up the crack veering to the L and finish at the DBB of Crucifixion.

FA: Nathan Bolton & Ellen Kemp, 1999

The best on the wall? Start up Resurrection for about 7m until it is possible to move into the thin vertical crackline. Follow this to the obvious twin-cracked roof. From the roof move L and take the fantastic L-soaring finger crack to the top. DBB.

FA: Madoc & Sarah Sheehan, 1999

Climbs the arete R of Resurrection. Scramble up cracks and corner to the ledge R of the arete. Move L and climb the arete direct passing the forth FH of Resurrection. From the top ledge move L or finish up the short crack behind - Wallarete VF (20).

FA: Madoc Sheehan & Sarah Sheehan, 1999

Climb Wallarete to the top ledge and finish up the short crack behind (20).

A testy roof and face climb. Starts 4m right of Resurrection. Up slab to first FH, from there up face and onto ledge clipping second FH and up to the roof (crux). Climb the face to exit.

FA: Rik Wittkopp & Cameron Cusworth, 1999

Classic. Starts in the rocky gully 10m around the arete L AME and directly opposite OOA. Abseil down into gully (or walk in the long way). Up slab to first of three black FHs. Undercling, then multiple layoffs past second FH. Through crux, then work R to hole and last FH. Up L to finish.

FA: Lee Skidmore & Steve Baskerville, 1998

Superb climbing up a pumpy wall. Directly opposite S. Up blocky corner to ledge. Up steep wall on well spaced jugs passing two black FHs to cam pocket and cracks, then up west coast of Africa shaped detached flake (don't place gear behind this!) to ledge. Up short corner to finish.

FA: Doug Hockly & Lee Skidmore, 1998

FFA: Lee Skidmore & Steve Baskerville, 1998

This was the hardest climb on Mt Stuart to date and a most excellent line. Starts about 10m to the R of OOA. Up past 3 rings to some moves on some monos (take care placing wires) to a good lock. Traverse L to corner & rest, up crackline using holds on R. Exit R, friends to #2. A direct version yet to be led.

FFA: Douglas Hockly, 1999

Start below the big chimney and hold used to find Wallaby Wall. Move up the big chimney, and exit to west(L) side.

FA: Scott Johnson & Suzanne Dyer, 1990

A great layback crack offering sustained climbing. Starts around the corner of the R of AME. Climb the little corner to ledge. Move R into the layback crack. Move up the crack staying L (R line is much harder). Exit up face to the R of a big drainage system (mind loose rock at top of climb).

FA: Scott Johnson, 1990

Starts 4m R of LB. Climb up the detached block to the first FH. Climb on past next 2 FH, finish on natural gear. Caution: Head R to finish climb avoiding large flake.

FA: Andrew Thorogood & Peter Trezona, 1999

Starts about 2m R of FYS, just to the L of the big chimney. Move straight up the face onto the roof above chimney. Continue up, staying L of the large crack.

FA: Scott Johnson, 1990

Start at the diagonal crack 2m R of SA that leads into a square chimney. Bridge the chimney and move R onto ledge. Step out onto the small ledge above the chimney. Stick with the crack.

FA: J. Scott, A. Dickson & Mick Pezet, 1984

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