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Sub Rosa Buttress Mostly Trad climbing 7 routes in cliff

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 5
7
AU
161820

Description

Sub Rosa Buttress offers a number of stepped faces of granite of varying quality. The crag is characterised by a number of aretes, pocketed and slab faces and often a single overhung sequence for cruxes. Be aware of loose rocks as the area has had very limited cleaning at this stage.

Access issues inherited from Mt Stuart

Visiting climbers are advised that a significant proportion of the cliffs lie in Department of Defence (Army) land. Trespassing on defence land is an offense. The Townsville City Council (TCC) controlled cliffs require a permit for climbing and/or abseiling. Do not park too close to the gate else your car may be moved. During the year, the car club holds races on the mountain road; during this time road access is closed. Mark Gommers is negotiating with the TCC to remove certain onerous restrictions such as a permit and indemnity insurance.

Approach

It can be easily accessed 2.5km up Mt Stuart Drive at a 4wd turnoff. A high clearance car is recommended, but not necessary. Direction is provided by a number of obvious rock cairns. Park at the power pole and walk down the grassy slope for two minutes for either top or bottom access.

(-19.356994, 146.808103)

Ethic inherited from Mt Stuart

Installation of permanent anchors (eg bolts) is not permitted on City Council land or Department of Defence (Army) land. Take all rubbish with you. - Be aware of loose rocks and other climbers who could be below you.

History

History timeline chart

To the best of Jack Heenan's knowledge, this area has only been climbed as of 2017. Need permission from land owner to access this area.

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Routes

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1
16 ★ Reader's Digest Trad 8m

Follow the obvious, well-protected dihedral for a tree belay. A must do for the crag.

FFA: Jack Heenan & Andrew Samuels

2
20 A tale of two flakes Top rope 8m

3m right of RD. Follow vertical flakes with awkward footing to slabby top out.

3
17 ★ Deborah Trad 10m

Start at RD, veer right to follow block. Nice moves to finish.

4
16 Hidden treasure Trad 22m

Endure the first 5m of poor quality climbing for a well-protected crack with easy, flowing moves.

FA: Andrew Samuels & Jack Heenan

5
19 La Durka Durka Trad 20m

Easy slabby start, to crimped face climbing, to cruxy top-out on questionable holds.

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6
21 The devil wears prana Trad 14m

An initial bouldery overhang which leads to technical slabby finish. Don't use the questionable milk-carton sized block for an extra grade.

7
19 ★★ Turn your head and cough Trad 14m

Follow an initial crack to the arete, generously marked with pockets exactly where you want them, to slabby top out. For a harder, but equally enjoyable variant, hug the left side of the arete. A must do of the crag.

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