Supernova Wall



Access issues inherited from South Sentinel

Recommended to discuss access with a local, can be tricky to find the carpark and requires a 4WD to access.

Ethic inherited from Frederick Peak area

A healthy mix of trad and sport.


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Grade Route

Start 5mL of Mira Nova, atop precarious pile of fractured blocks. Be sure to preclip first bolt! Quirky, powerful climbing. Finish at Necessary Evil anchor.

FFA: Chris Beric & Steve Ioannou, 31 Oct 2013

1 17 18m
2 12 30m
3 13 30m
4 17 50m

Starts at the ramp below the large scoop.

  1. 18m 17 Up via the grey scoop past the 1st FH. Traverse out left and then around the block to easier ground. Up to ledge with tree and DRB.

  2. 30m 12 Up the obvious corner. Go left and up until you reach the large ledge beneath the short headwall.

  3. 30m 13 Walk left along ledge and climb around bulge to gain short steep corner. Up corner and then diagonally left until you reach a small section of orange rock below a steep headwall. Belay at end of orange section.

  4. 50m 17 Climb up the headwall past horizontal breaks, then traverse right to crack. Up and over to reach the large ledge. Traverse right along the set of ledges to reach the top of Master's Apprentice. Escape via the chains.

Be aware of loose rock on pitches 2-4.

FFA: Andrew Rule (1, Mark Gommers & Leia Clark p3 Andrew Rule, 2004

Set by Steve Ioannou, 2010

Link-up. The first 5m of Mira Nova into Maharaja and finish at the Necessary Evil anchors.

FFA: Marina Haintz & Steve Ioannou, 19 Oct 2014

At the end of Mira Nova pitch 2, climb straight up through steep featured roof with obvious crack (crux). Through the hidden, over-hanging corner crack and climb to ledge & tree belay above Supernova Wall. Beware of the loose rocks on ledge.

FA: Chris Glastonbury & Chris Beric, 7 Jul 2012

Build a belay midway through pitch 3 of "Mira Nova" below the blood orange part of the short headwall. Climb up the headwall past horizontal breaks, then traverse R to weakness and ledge. Traverse R along the set of ledges to reach the top of "Master's Apprentice". Escape via the chains.

FFA: Mark Gommers, Andrew Rule & Leia Clark, 2004

An upper pitch route. Starts at MN's first belay. Straight up, tending slightly L and following the bolts on slabby ground which ends up being pretty pumpy and feeling like a trad route towards the top. Great stance to clip anchor.

Subject of one of the biggest hype campaigns in climbing history. DO MAD AGENT!

FA: Chris Beric & Christopher Glastonbury, 24 Jun 2012

FFA: Chris Beric & Chris Glastonbury, 24 Jun 2012

King line up crazy steep wall and brilliant jugs. Up scoop to jug pillar, then R and straight up featured fringe of looming RH Trench. Remember your kneebar pads!

FFA: Chris Beric/Steve Ioannou, 30 Nov 2012

Extension to Kneebar Nexus. Battle onward through final core intensive section. Break out onto steep juggy terrain some 50m off the deck. Power through top roof on superb holds to triumph atop Supernova Wall. Redirect through Kneebar Nexus anchor to avoid being trapped dangling out in space.

FFA: Chris Beric/Chris Glastonbury/Steve Ioannou, 7 Jun 2013

Set by Steve Ioannou, 2014

FFA: Steve Ioannou, 19 Jul 2014

An upper pitch route. Starts at MN's first belay. Up R past four bolts, then a traverse out R onto super exposed overhanging wall. Devious bouldery crux then pumpy jugging up right to top out the wall.

FFA: Steve Ioannou, 19 May 2012

The "Supernova" extension! After the crux, step L and keep on pumping which makes it longer and more full-on. Brutal!

FA: Steve Ioannou, 6 Oct 2012

Starting up Mira Nova but continuing up at 3rd bolt to U bolt anchor at lip. Often seeps, but still climbable if the seepage is minor.

FA: Chris Beric, Chris Glastonbury & Leia Clark, 27 May 2013

First 6 bolts of NE then move R into the end of Thundermentals.

FFA: Chris Beric/Chris Glastonbury, 27 May 2013

Past MN's first bolt into bowl. Up steep sporty pockets (Thailand anyone?) to some varied, continually engaging climbing to lower-off.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 14 Jul 2012

The first unbroken route through all of "Supernova Wall". King ling encompassing 50m of Fredericks finest rock. Up "Primosanity", then power through a tough boulder problem into "Hypernova". Only question is, are you insane enough to take on this monster?

FFA: Steve Ioannou, 5 Jul 2013

Obvious leaning crack line. One of the best traditional routes around. Take cams up to #3 C4.

FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 25 Aug 2012

Words can't do this route justice. Undeniably a world-class, "you should travel here to do this" route. Starts with stickclipping the bolt a couple of metres right of Citizen Arcane. Technical slab/groove start to the Facebook-famous dyno. Motor up the crack and confront the "press". Seam section to monster pockets. An unforgettable finale to cap things off.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 28 Jun 2012

FA: Lee Cujes, 17 Jul 2012

Townsville's first 5.14! The king reigns supreme.

FFA: Steven Ioannou, 5 Aug 2018

Next level effort! The extension to Transcontinental, climb that route and keep cranking.

FFA: Steven Ioannou, 13 May 2018


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