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The Wall of the Four Winds

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 10
6
AU

Seasonality

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Description

The Wall of the Four Winds was discovered and developed by Mark Gommers and is situated on the upper section of the Great Wall. Access via abseil chains. Fortunately, this upper section is within the civilian boundary. If you abseil to the ground, you will cross into defence (Commonwealth) land. The rock and all routes in this area are spectacular. As this is all trad climbing and can only be legally accessed via abseil, you need a solid skill set. This is not a place to get into difficulties.

Access issues inherited from Mt Stuart

Visiting climbers are advised that a significant proportion of the cliffs lie in Department of Defence (Army) land. Trespassing on defence land is an offense. The Townsville City Council (TCC) controlled cliffs require a permit for climbing and/or abseiling. Do not park too close to the gate else your car may be moved. During the year, the car club holds races on the mountain road; during this time road access is closed. Mark Gommers is negotiating with the TCC to remove certain onerous restrictions such as a permit and indemnity insurance.

Ethic inherited from Mt Stuart

Installation of permanent anchors (eg bolts) is not permitted on City Council land or Department of Defence (Army) land. Take all rubbish with you. - Be aware of loose rocks and other climbers who could be below you.

History

History timeline chart

Discovered and developed by Mark Gommers during the 1990's.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Starts at ledge with chains, up and L round arete to ledge. Up steep face (3 FH's) and R to intermittent crackline. Belay off one FH and cam above the detatched block. Sustained and solid for the grade.

FFA: Mark Gommers & Craig Goebel, 1998

Starts at ledge with chains. Up shallow technical corner above chains to FH and roof, traverse R (FH) to a cruxy exit around roof to DBB.

FFA: Mark Gommers & Jason Gunders, 1997

As for ATW to the FH but pull left round bulge and up to DBB.

FFA: Mark Gommers & Andrew Rule, 1996

Starts at ledge with chains. A technical climb going up the shallow R-leaning corner to the R of the chains to a FH, then R to arete. Up crack and face, keeping just L of arete and up DBB.

FFA: Mark Gommers & Andrew Rule, 1996

Supporting theCrag is not only good for your Karma
it also gives you access to great benefits on theCrag and beyond.
1 19 22m
2 19 23m

Take RP's, cams, and courage. Starts from the chains at the top of the 2nd pitch of Deliverance & tackles the overhanging wall & RH crack with 1FH.

  1. 22m 19. Climb the corner, traverse L, & strenuously clip the FH. Pull hard to pass the bolt to a semi-rest & a couple of RP's. Continue up steep terrain to the small belay ledge with FH.

  2. Was originally done by starting straight down from the rap chains at a small ledge with a FH about 2.5m up. Slopey and slightly slabby except for achunky undercling move. Difficult to start (or start from the right) then up face and crack (FH). Up to next FH, then step right to vague arete. Up, then back left over bulge using undercling to another FH. Step right, then up to DBB. 3FH's & RP's.

FFA: Mark Gommers & Andrew Rule, 1997

FA: 2001

Starts at the chains half way up Deliverance.

  1. 20m Traverse 5m L to corner with FH. Up this and onwards to ledge level with and 4m R of Candle In The Wind 's belay bolt.

  2. 25m Step up onto block and climb finger crack to ledge. Step L, then up.

FFA: Mark Gommers & Andrew Rule, 1996

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Thu 7 Sep
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