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The Cow Paddock

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Description

The Cow Paddock is home to a few classics such as The Good Wife. It's a warm area in summer as it doesn't get much breeze. Most problems are below 3.5 metres except for The Good Wife Boulder and Five Year Cigar Boulder. A few tough problems still to be sent on The Good Wife Boulder.

NOTE: Once here, try to identify the "Bum Crack", as this is useful in locating other problems.

Access issues inherited from Harvey’s Marbles

Stay well away from the rifle shooting range (http://www.tmrc.com.au/). This is private property and potentially extremely dangerous.

Approach

Access to The Cow Paddock is fairly simple:

  • Looking from the top of the road embankment with your back to the road, follow the track to the R down into the cleared area passing a small water hole on your L (sometimes dry). About 50m from the car the track veers R in a small trench.

  • Follow this track passing a couple of small to medium boulders on your R after a further 50m. This is The Preboulders, a couple of problems, like The Lunge.

  • From these boulders continue along the track for about another 100m or so, until there is an obvious bunch of boulders on your R. This is The Cow Paddock, and you should be able to see The Castle ahead and slightly to the L of the track.

NOTE: The track to The Cow Paddock doesn't get used as often as the track going L from the top of the road embankment. It is sometimes a little faint. Generally speaking the track going R also has longer grass.

Ethic inherited from Harvey’s Marbles

Please respect the local ethics and at all times, look after the environment. This means definitely no chipping, use your wire brush sparingly and only on the holds that you are using, leave the trees alone (it is often possible to pull them aside temporarily if they are covering a problem), and of course take out everything that arrived with you. The rocks are covered in beautiful paint-like lichen that for the most part doesn't interfere with climbing. If you need to clean lichen from a problem, remove only what is essential, and preferably as little as possible.

Harvey's has innumerable very high lines, such as Spenser's "Deliverance" and "Walk The Line". Despite this, Harvey's Marbles remains a bouldering crag and therefore no bolting is allowed. Top roping is fine if you want to do something that is too high for you to boulder.

This is private land and we are very lucky to have permission to access it please follow some simple rules:

  • No bolts
  • Keep to the walking trails where possible.
  • Take all rubbish with you.
  • Protect the environment; try to leave as much of the moss growing on the rocks as possible.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

A couple of small to medium boulders about 100m or so before The Cow Paddock.

Just left of The Lunge (when walking to The Cow Paddock). Up and left from horizontal holds to jugs and straight up.

FA: Steve Baskerville

A short arête with the chunky undercling.

An ok problem Right of Lunge.

Pocketed slab.

FA: Madoc Sheehan, 1999

Starting at the left-hand end of the long vertical face, traverse right along the slopey top and finish at the flake at the right-hand end. Surprisingly tricky.

FA: 2001

A variant of "Ice Cream Topping". Mantle half way for an easier problem.

Starting in the middle of the wall off the small left-hand sidepull and tiny right-hand crimp. Tricky feet and then launch for the slopey top. Fingery Fun.

FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2001

Sit start on the short uphill arete (below the obvious hanging knob) with right-hand sidepull and lower of the two left-hand slopers. Fun.

FA: Steve Baskerville, 2001

Essentially Nasty Knob, without the right-hand sidepulls. Sit start below the horn, with the slopers at the base of the vague arête. Now go straight up via some small divots and slopers to gain the horn. Reachy last move.

FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003

Start sitting on the block below the short face and slab. Start 1.5m left of the tree, hanging off the left-hand arete and small crimp on the face. Up to hold on slab and finish moving up and left.

FA: Steve Baskerville, 2001

Mantle onto short slab using the one obvious good hold. Climb it at 5 O'clock and find out why.

FA: Steve Baskerville, 2002

Starts just right of the tree (tree no longer exists) and up on slopey holds with a crux slap for the juggy flake.

FA: Madoc Sheehan, 1999

Straight up the dimpled face starting off sidepull and slopey pinches.

FA: Steve Baskerville, 2001

Up the obvious flake arête. Standing start off small blocks, step up to small underclings then follow the flake right. A good problem.

FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2000

Start from ground off small holds (slopey crimps).

FA: Rob Saunders

Left-hand variant of "Creaking Limbs", starting just to the left on better footholds, finishing via a great jug. Balancy goodness.

FA: Nick Gust, 2000

Middle of the blank looking face below the hanging flake. Starts crouched off the obvious low handrail, up to flake.

FA: Stuart Argent, 1999

Sit start on the rocking boulder, then a single move dyno to the top.

FA: Steve Baskerville, 2000

Short, steep sit start below the obvious flake and up. Sharp.

FA: Steve Baskerville, 2002

Variant of Bedraggled - without the sit start. A pleasant problem.

A short sit start with a tricky first move and actually easier for shorter people.

FA: Jason Shaw, 2000

Sit-start on edges at lip, single mantle move to easy top out.

FA: Glen Hayford, 25 Mar 2023

Sit start at left-hand end of tiny bulge, moving Right and topping out at highest point.

FA: Steve Baskerville

Start way around to the right and traverse left to the start of "Unnamed Traverse #1", and top out left.

FA: Steve Baskerville

Reverse direction of Training Day.

Starts 1m left of "Bum Crack". Up from cluster of small edges to slopey pinch and a hard mantle.

FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2002

A balancy crack and face climbing to a slope at the top with a pleasant top out. Classic. See Bum Crack Sit-start for a slightly harder problem.

FA: Madoc Sheehan, 1999

Same as "Bum Crack" but with the obvious sit start.

FA: Steve Baskerville, 2000

Start as for "Bum Crack Sit Start", only go up and across diagonally left to finish up as for "Harry Houdini's Hand Holds", via a tough and thin traverse.

FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003

Start 2m right of "Bum Crack" with a high slopey left-hand pinch, and a bad lower right-hand hold. Paste your feet and up to some slopes and a tricky mantle. Stack mats or blocks to reach the left-hand start hold if you are too short - see "The right cheek high start".

FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003

Same as "The right cheek" but starting high with pads or blocks.

Crank through steep wall from slopes on lip. Starts off the flake embedded in the ground. Alternatively start as "Pull Hard Variant 1", "Pull Hard Variant 2", or "Pull Hard Variant 3".

FA: Madoc Sheehan, 1999

Alternative start to "Pull Hard". Start without the flake.

Alternative start to "Pull Hard". Start just to th left with left-hand sidepull.

Alternative start to "Pull Hard". Start way to the right at "Shuck and Jive" and traverse left.

Slab to the right of "Pull Hard" up the shallow corner.

FA: Madoc Sheehan, 1999

Up on nice flakes. Start in the middle of the wall, moving right to the top. This is the descent route for the boulder and it is a little tricky.

FFA: Madoc Sheehan, 1999

The right-hand arête of "The Elevator" wall.

FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003

Sustained slab just right of the steep blank section. Step onto slab from boulders. Bad landing and scary.

FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2001

High slab with a tricky start and a balancy finish.

FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2004

Fine slab with a reachy move at the top. Starts in the middle/right of the wall and up via a good right-hand sidepull to a cluster of good edges.

FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2000

Up to obvious hanging flake feature 3m up the wall, trending left to finish.

FA: unknown

Starting 2m right of "The Divorce". A steep highball face with good edges and sidepulls, just left of the obvious flake, with the crux at the top. Standing start off the pair of chunky edges. A super classic!

FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2001

Starting 2m left of "The Good Wife". Follow the line of edges and scoops up to a crux at the top with a cruisy mantle to finish. Mega classic!

FA: Nick Larsen, 2004

Interesting. Start by establishing yourself on the detached block beneath the left leaning overhung arête. Now move right and onto the vertical face, going up this at the good flake.

FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003

Variant of The Oddity. Start from ground level and go up the left-hand side of the vertical face, just right of the block and arête.

FA: Steve Baskerville

Up the obvious easiest slab. Can be down-climbed

FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2000

Featured rib of holds up the slab. Footwork intensive.

FA: Nick Larsen, 2004

Very tall, proud arête and a magnum opus. Sometimes there are some wasps on the right face, so be careful.

FFA: Rob Saunders, 2004

The tiny boulder below "Kasia's Revenge" (towards the castle).

Sit start

Sit-start.

Fun, balancy moves up this tiny wall, starting off the obvious sidepull. Can be done using various eliminates as well as one handed, and has been done as a classic hands free problem!

FA: Sarah Sheehan, 1999

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Tue 25 Jul
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