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Description

The beast problems are "Fall From Grace", and "Tumble". Also home to one of the hardest slabs at Harvey's Marbles, "Subtle Manipulation".

The first problems you get to are on " The Scoop Boulder".

Access issues inherited from Harveys Marbles

Stay well away from the rifle shooting range (http://www.tmrc.com.au/). This is private property and potentially extremely dangerous.

Approach

Access to The Fun Parlor is also easy. At the top of the road embankment, turn L and follow the track for about 60m till you reach an obvious rock cairn on a small boulder. At this point follow the track away from the road. Continue in this direction and after 100m or so you should see two small boulders that are slightly isolated from the rest of The Fun Parlour. This is The Scoop Boulder. Amazingly, it has a scoop on the front face.

Ethic inherited from Harveys Marbles

Please respect the local ethics and at all times, look after the environment. This means definitely no chipping, use your wire brush sparingly and only on the holds that you are using, leave the trees alone (it is often possible to pull them aside temporarily if they are covering a problem), and of course take out everything that arrived with you. The rocks are covered in beautiful paint-like lichen that for the most part doesn't interfere with climbing. If you need to clean lichen from a problem, remove only what is essential, and preferably as little as possible.

Harvey's has innumerable very high lines, such as Spenser's "Deliverance" and "Walk The Line". Despite this, Harvey's Marbles remains a bouldering crag and therefore no bolting is allowed. Top roping is fine if you want to do something that is too high for you to boulder.

This is private land and we are very lucky to have permission to access it please follow some simple rules:

  • No bolts
  • Keep to the walking trails where possible.
  • Take all rubbish with you.
  • Protect the environment; try to leave as much of the moss growing on the rocks as possible.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Obvious flake. Also see "Unnamed #1 Sit Start".

FA: MS, 1999

Sit start for "Unnamed #1".

From centre of scoop using L arete.

FA: MS, 1999

From centre of scoop straight upwards avoiding LH arête and jugs R. See also "Lisa V4".

FA: MS, 1999

Sit start of Scoop Direct and is even more desperate!

FA: Live Lundemo

Start as far R of the scoop as possible and traverse L, topping out L of the scoop, (as for Scoop Left). Can also be done in reverse.

FA: Steve Baskerville, 2002

A V4 sit start on the small boulder behind the scoop boulder, tackling the tiny overhang.

FFA: Live Lundemo

Pleasant face and a great kiddy problem.

FA: Sarah Sheehan, 1999

FA: Steve Baskerville

The next boulder R of Moo also some short V0 slabs.

1m L of 'Warm-up #2". A short slab.

1m L of "Warm-up #1". Up through bulge.

Variant of "Warm-up #1". The Scoop just L without the sidepull.

Centre of face via good in-cut sidepull.

Stand start just L of Present Tense with high RH hold. Not very good.

Obvious steep crack a few meters R of the above problem. Start sitting with both hands in the crack. Sharp but classic, if you are into that sort of thing.

FA: Steve Baskerville

The standing start to Present Tense.

Up small block.

FA: MS, 1999

Variant of "Unnamed #2". Sit start the RH side of the block and up.

Slabby arete and face just L of block. Good.

FA: MS, 1999

A variant of Deception. Sit start. Even better!

"The Inner Circle" classic problem with lovely technical moves. Up the L leaning vague arête. This is normally done from a sit start, although the stand is no easier.

FA: MS, 1999

Continue "Fall from Grace" L along the slopey lip till you reach the other arete and mantle here.

FA: SB, 2004

The steep flake and arête on the uphill face, starting just R of the tree.

FA: Jason Shaw, 2001

The sit start of "Gone In 15 Seconds" adds some interesting moves.

The high slab on the opposite side of Fall From Grace. Work through the low scoop and then up onto a balancy top.

Add the sit start, with the lower of the two LH sidepulls and a RH sidepull barely off the ground, for a tough, thin and sustained problem.

FA: SB, 2003

Wall just R of above problems starting with LH on high small crimp and RH on lower sidepull.

FA: SB, 2004

A reference to the holds rather than a swipe at any particular political preference! Sit start off the block (or crouched start) into above problem. Starts with low RH sidepull. Technical and crimpy.

FA: SB, 2004

When facing Fall From Grace, there is a small boulder 10m behind you with two little V3 sit starts.

On the RH arête.

FA: SB

In the middle.

FA: MS

Links the sit start of The Other Way, R into the start of The Wrong Way via a tough thin traverse, and adds a couple of grades.

FA: SB

Boulder #5 has some short sit starts at about V2/3 & and V5 "Unconvential Means".

Sit start on RH arête, and then traverse L along the lip, (not using obvious jug over the top), continuing around the LH arête and mantle just around the corner.

FA: SB, 2002

RH tiny arête.

in the middle of the overhung face using horizontal break.

Steep slopey layback flake up crumbly boulder that's a nice breather from the crimps. Best from a crouched start.

FA: MS, 1999

Slab with steep start on back end of the boulder. Also see "Delicat Variant".

FA: MS, 1999

Variant of "Delicat". Start to the R off the low jug.

Starts at "Delicat", on the mushroom boulder. Move up and diagonally L, hanging off the very vague arête. Big move to reach the slopey dish out L and then mantle. Alternatively, traverse in via the variant start "Magic Mushrooms Variant".

FA: Steve Baskerville, 2002

An alternative traverse in to "Magic Mushrooms" from the variant start.

FA: MS, 2002

Start just R of Timeout, with both hands using the small roof as an undercling. Pull on and throw up and L for the flake and finish up this.

FA: MS, 2002

When facing Delicat on Boulder 6 - The Mushroom Boulder, there is a slabby arete behind you and downhill a few meters.

Starting from LH on the big low jug and RH on sidepull.

FA: SB

Centre of face starting off obvious rock, moving R to finish.

Spiderman started directly under the finishing holds.

FA: SB

Linked with The Ashes.

FA: SB

Mantle straight above the block, avoiding the jugs out L and R.

FA: MS

Arete just L of Spiderman. Great.

FA: MS, 1999

Arete just L of B, with tricky moves toward the top.

FA: MS, 1999

Face just R of Beached Whale.

FA: Ben Collins, 2002

Traverse R from Beached Whale, around The Ashes arête to the end of the boulder and up the easy arete. Stay quite low during the traverse.

FA: SB, 2004

Another excellent technical arete starting from lowest level at the ground.

FA: MS, 1999

Take the Tumble arete from the RH side. Bad landing.

FA: Jason Barber, 2004

1.5m L of Tumble. Up to join vague arete (RH side of scoop).

FA: SB, 2002

Into the scoop anyway you want and then move R to exit. A little spooky.

Also a little spooky. Up the middle of the scoop. Can use the LH arête.

Fun.

Short little blank slab about 2m L of Easy Crack. Can be done direct or going L.

FA: madoc

FA: quinn sheehan

FA: cameron burns

Thin Crimps following a diagonal seam and desperate mantle

FA: Cameron Burns

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