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Description

Home to some of the nicest sunsets at Harvey's. Spectacular problems in the V4 – V7 range. One of the quickest drying areas. It's hot in the middle of the day but spectacular late afternoon.

Access issues inherited from Harveys Marbles

Stay well away from the rifle shooting range (http://www.tmrc.com.au/). This is private property and potentially extremely dangerous.

Ethic inherited from Harveys Marbles

Please respect the local ethics and at all times, look after the environment. This means definitely no chipping, use your wire brush sparingly and only on the holds that you are using, leave the trees alone (it is often possible to pull them aside temporarily if they are covering a problem), and of course take out everything that arrived with you. The rocks are covered in beautiful paint-like lichen that for the most part doesn't interfere with climbing. If you need to clean lichen from a problem, remove only what is essential, and preferably as little as possible.

Harvey's has innumerable very high lines, such as Spenser's "Deliverance" and "Walk The Line". Despite this, Harvey's Marbles remains a bouldering crag and therefore no bolting is allowed. Top roping is fine if you want to do something that is too high for you to boulder.

This is private land and we are very lucky to have permission to access it please follow some simple rules:

  • No bolts
  • Keep to the walking trails where possible.
  • Take all rubbish with you.
  • Protect the environment; try to leave as much of the moss growing on the rocks as possible.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start with both hands on obvious edge and up via slopes and crimps to a good finishing jug. Watch the spikey block underneath!

FA: MS, 2000

Variant of 'Snorkel'. Pull L onto face.

Variant of 'Snorkel'. Low start eliminating starting edge of original problem.

Sit start as per Snorkel, then traverse right, using the slopes along the obvious lip, finishing on the RH arete in front of the small tree.

See the V4 variant, 'Breathless VF'.

FFA: SB, 2001

As for Breathless but continue around the arête and finish up as for 'Nibbles'.

Technical face and arete, staying R of arete. Better than it looks.

FA: 2000

'Any Which Way' but without using the arête.

FA: SB, 2003

Starts straight on at the base of the above arete and then moves L onto face.

FA: SB, 2001

Starts standing with 2 sloping underclings, (big one for LH and small one on arete for RH). Brutal move to stand up and then slap up RH arete. A little easier if you start off the block.

FA: MS, 2000

Slightly contrived problem tackling the face between 'Left Cocky' and 'Vertical Therapy'. Doesn't use either arete and finishes via the great jug at the top. Slopey holds to the top.

FA: Steve Baskerville, 2002

Face and vague arete, with improving LH sidepulls, finishing via the great jug.

FA: SB, 2001

Arete from R side, moving R to the same finishing jug as 'Vertical Therapy'.

FA: MS, 2000

Same arete as 'Sunset Delights', only from the L side, with some nice layback moves.

FA: Keith Van Den Broek, 2001

Face, starting from lowest level, 1m L of 'Keith's arete of Destruction'.

FA: SB, 2000

There are also some short flaky faces.

Rising traverse, topping out at the RH arete. Super classic and a fantastic warm up.

FA: MS, 1999

Tackles the concave face, not using the LH arete and finishing via the jug at the top.

FA: SB, 2001

Swing start dyno (start with one foot on the wall and jump) using RH on arete, to jug.

FA: Tristan Baskerville, 2001

Essentially 'Mr Angry Head' without the swing start; In other words establish yourself on the rock and then dyno for the top. Technical and fun.

FA: SB, 2003

Obvious bear hug arête, like holding refrigerator block.

FA: MS, 2000

Super classic sit start to 'Bear Huggies' and very pleasant for the grade. A Harvey's Marbles must do!

FA: Steve Baskerville, 2002

Same sit start as 'Squatting Bear', only move R into 'Trixter', moving R along crimps to the slab and up this. Technical and good.

FA: Steve Baskerville, 2002

Start off the pair of edges on the RH arête of 'Bear Huggies'. Across to and up the face just R to finish.

FA: SB, 2001

A short cruisy face and arête with some nice scoops.

FA: Stuart Argent, 1999

A nice beginner problem that can be started from numerous holds and heights, but it's best started low off on opposing sidepulls.

Up steep wall on downhill side to jugs and then traverse L along the crack to finish. The scary direct mantle is still to go.

FA: MS, 1999

Start as for Pikers Variant but after getting the halfway jug, head up and R to finish above the little gully.

FA: Nick Larsen

Hard slab with some very technical footwork. Start from lowest level.

FA: MS, 2000

From small crimps move up to good edge and then chunky flake.

Up to layback. Finish direct. Scary.

Up from slopey holds at lip of roof. Sit start under the roof with crimps. See also 'C Variant'.

FA: Yianni Marawarni, 2001

Same as 'C' but using big flake for feet.

FA: SB, 2004

The obvious overhung arete with a standing start.

FA: SB, 2000

Sit start to screamer. Classic and sustained up a steep arete.

FA: Jon Egil Auestad, 2002

Face and arete with a long floaty dynamic crux. The small block directly below the arete is in for feet at the start. It may be the best move at Harvey's Marbles...

FA: SB, 2001

Slab starting from ground level L of small block, then moving out R.

FA: SB, 2001

Contrived. Same start as 'Out of Reach' only keeping L of small block, except for starting RH hold. Straight up through some desperately sloping holds.

FA: SB, 2001

Just R of 'Soft Pockets', on the blank looking wall. Hard move to pop to a multitude of mono's (swing start ok) and then to up via a slightly better micro-pocket!

FA: Live Lundemo, 2002

The blocky arête between 'Live's Pockets' and 'Soft Pockets'. Up via a very cool RH pinch at the crux.

FA: SB, 2003

The tricky RH end/arete of the big slab, covered in lichen. Starts above the big foothold. Really interesting and climbs better than it looks.

FA: MS, 2000

Starts just R of 'Strictly Ballroom' above the big diagonal foothold. Up on multiple mono pockets. Balancy and tough.

FA: 2002

Starts in center left of slab, moving up and out L to a small foothold and then up.

FA: MS, 2000

The direct start to Strictly Ballroom.

The face and arête with an undercut start to a balancy finish. Excellent.

FA: SB, 2003

The blank face with the good starting hold at about half height. This and a pathetic slope are it though. Harvey's Marbles first V5 problem.

FFA: MS, 2000

The face and arête just L of tree. Start standing on the flake embedded in the ground, with slopey sidepull for LH and incut tooth for RH. Reachy and hard move up and R to the sidepull and up. Reach dependant start.

FA: SB, 2003

The small corner on the downhill face starting from the L. The hard sit start is the obvious line and is yet to go.

FA: MS, 2001

Traverse along the front slabby face of the boulder, with a crux top out. Start as far L as possible.

FA: 2001

Short sit start. Broken hold has made it harder.

FA: SB

That is how much it cost Dan Radford to do the second ascent. Up from edges to slopes and mantle.

FA: Madoc Sheehan

Steep face from a standing start. Sit start will be hard!

FA: Dan Radford

Loads of fun for everyone. Various problems up the friction slab.

FA: SB, 2000

Sit start the LH most slab, just R of arete, moving onto arete to finish.

FA: SB, 2001

Do the above sit start then traverse L to top out 'Winter Woolies'.

FA: SB, 2004

The arete starting from lowest level and slightly L. Great beginner problem.

FA: SB, 2000

Face 1.5 metres L of the arete. Now with a missing hold which has increased the grade. Up via some tricky moves, moving onto the arete for the top half.

FA: SB, 2002

Middle of face going straight up through some thin moves.

FA: SB, 2001

Start just L on the bigger footholds, just R of crack, moving R to finish as for 'Banded Burritos'.

Obvious layback.

FA: MS, 2000

Balancy slab starting in the narrow gap between the two boulders, starting from lowest level.

FA: MS, 2000

Fantastic wall. Very high with a cruxy finish.

FA: MS, 2007

Up arête and crack to higher arête on L.

Start on arête. Follow crack R to finish.

FA: Tyson Burns

Up face and thin crack.

One of the few cracks at Harvey's.

FA: Aaron Jones, 2000

High ball. Up the obvious flaky face, staying L of arete for nicest moves.

FA: MS, 1999

Start in middle of face with RH on rising lip, LH on diagonal edge. Move up and mantle. See also 'Weighting Gains Variant'.

Start low, matched off the diagonal edge. See also 'Weighting Gains'.

FA: MS

Start in middle of face with low edges, moving up and left to a tough finish. Face was uncovered after a large fire destroyed a tree in front of the face.

FA: Dan Radford

Sit start just L of the tree. Move R traversing the lip and passing around the tree. Continue and mantle about 1m R of the tree. Easy for the grade. Traverse all the way to almost the end of the boulder and up the grade to V5. Alternatively go straight up and L from the sit start for a V2.

FA: SB, 2003

Same as 'The Good Shorts' but traverse all the way to almost the end of the boulder.

FA: SB, 2003

Same as 'The Good Shorts' but alternatively go straight up and L from the sit start.

FA: SB, 2003

About 30m away to your L and slightly behind you when facing 'The Good Shorts' is another tiny boulder that is undercut on it's downhill side. You wouldn't really look twice, but it is home to a fun traverse:

Sit start at the LH end of the overhang and traverse R along the slopey lip, finishing as far R as possible on the massive R foothold. Great low fun.

FA: SB, 2003

Variant to 'More Value For Your Crag'. Start sitting on the block in the middle and mantle straight up via some slopers.

FA: SB

RH side of wall. Up, with a terrible undercling and a small mono to start.

FA: Spenser Tang-Smith

Small 1m boulder. Sit start with feet on small edge, hands matched on obvious lower rail. Mantle up and top out on boulder

FA: Michael green, 1 Jul

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