The Inner Circle Guide

Traverse L.

Sit start.

Bridge problem.

Starting right of the tree, squeeze up the dihedral onto the boulder then continue up the slab.

Right foot on the low side pull, mantle up and continue up the slab.

Face only. See also 'Unnamed #13 Variant'

Face and arete for LH. See also 'Unnamed #13'.

Face and arete to a tricky mantle.

Face between the two aretes with an awkward landing.

A fun, short, dynamic problem. Up arete in one big move. Watch the flake.

A nice warm up.

Short round mantle.

Middle of blank slab.

RH end of slab. Step L onto big foothold.

Traverse from the LH arête along lip. Exit before flake.

Sit start on big flake.

Obvious flake. Also see "Hot Scoop Sit Start".

Sit start for "Hot Scoop”

From centre of scoop using L arete.

From centre of scoop straight upwards avoiding LH arête and jugs R. See also "Lisa V4".

Sit start of Scoop Direct and is even more desperate!

Start as far R of the scoop as possible and traverse L, topping out L of the scoop, (as for Scoop Left). Can also be done in reverse.

A V4 sit start on the small boulder behind the scoop boulder, tackling the tiny overhang.

1m L of “Slip Toe Ridge”. A short slab.

1m L of “Granulate”. Up through bulge.

Variant of “Uncle Slabbers”. The Scoop just L without the sidepull.

Centre of face via good in-cut sidepull.

Stand start just L of Present Tense with high RH hold. Not very good.

Obvious steep crack a few meters R of the above problem. Start sitting with both hands in the crack. Sharp but classic, if you are into that sort of thing.

The standing start to Present Tense.

Pleasant face and a great kiddy problem.

"The Inner Circle" classic problem with lovely technical moves. Up the L leaning vague arête. This is normally done from a sit start, although the stand is no easier.

Continue "Fall from Grace" L along the slopey lip till you reach the other arete and mantle here.

Slabby arete and face just L of block. Good.

A variant of Deception. Sit start. Even better!

Up small block.

Variant of "Righty Tighty Stand Start" Sit start the RH side of the block and up.

The steep flake and arête on the uphill face, starting just R of the tree.

The sit start of "Gone In 15 Seconds" adds some interesting moves.

The dead rotting tree was removed after it half fell down, creating a dangerous hazard for climbers but also exposing a new face on the boulder.

Standing start off opposing side-pulls, move directly up the vague arete on side-pulls and crimps to a blank top-out.

The high slab on the opposite side of Fall From Grace. Work through the low scoop and then up onto a balancy top.

Add the sit start, with the lower of the two LH sidepulls and a RH sidepull barely off the ground, for a tough, thin and sustained problem.

Wall just R of above problems starting with LH on high small crimp and RH on lower sidepull.

A reference to the holds rather than a swipe at any particular political preference! Sit start off the block (or crouched start) into above problem. Starts with low RH sidepull. Technical and crimpy.

Sit-start on the RH arête.

Sit-start in the middle at obvious rail.

Links the sit start of The Other Way, R into the start of The Wrong Way via a tough thin traverse, and adds a couple of grades.

Sit start on RH arête, and then traverse L along the lip, (not using obvious jug over the top), continuing around the LH arête and mantle just around the corner.

RH tiny arête.

in the middle of the overhung face using horizontal break.

Steep slopey layback flake up crumbly boulder that's a nice breather from the crimps. Best from a crouched start.

Slab with steep start on back end of the boulder. Also see "Delicat Variant".

Variant of "Delicat". Start to the R off the low jug.

Starts at "Delicat", on the mushroom boulder. Move up and diagonally L, hanging off the very vague arête. Big move to reach the slopey dish out L and then mantle. Alternatively, traverse in via the variant start "Magic Mushrooms Variant".

An alternative traverse in to "Magic Mushrooms" from the variant start.

Start just R of Timeout, with both hands using the small roof as an undercling. Pull on and throw up and L for the flake and finish up this.

Starting from LH on the big low jug and RH on sidepull.

Arete just L of Spiderman. Great.

Centre of face starting off obvious rock, moving R to finish.

Spiderman started directly under the finishing holds.

Linked with The Ashes.

Mantle straight above the block, avoiding the jugs out L and R.

Face just R of Beached Whale.

Arete just L of ”Earthling” with tricky moves toward the top.

Traverse R from Beached Whale, around The Ashes arête to the end of the boulder and up the easy arete. Stay quite low during the traverse.

Another excellent technical arete starting from lowest level at the ground.

Take the Tumble arete from the RH side. Bad landing.

1.5m L of Tumble. Up to join vague arete (RH side of scoop).

Into the scoop anyway you want and then move R to exit. A little spooky.

Also a little spooky. Up the middle of the scoop. Can use the LH arête.

Fun.

Short little blank slab about 2m L of Easy Crack. Can be done direct or going L.

Thin Crimps following a diagonal seam and desperate mantle

Sit start with both hands on obvious edge and up via slopes and crimps to a good finishing jug. Watch the spikey block underneath!

Variant of 'Snorkel'. Pull L onto face.

Variant of 'Snorkel'. Low start eliminating starting edge of original problem.

Sit start as per Snorkel, then traverse right, using the slopes along the obvious lip, finishing on the RH arete in front of the small tree.

See the V4 variant, 'Breathless VF'.

As for Breathless but continue around the arête and finish up as for 'Nibbles'.

Technical face and arete, staying R of arete. Better than it looks.

'Any Which Way' but without using the arête.

Starts straight on at the base of the above arete and then moves L onto face.

Starts standing with 2 sloping underclings, (big one for LH and small one on arete for RH). Brutal move to stand up and then slap up RH arete. A little easier if you start off the block.

Slightly contrived problem tackling the face between 'Left Cocky' and 'Vertical Therapy'. Doesn't use either arete and finishes via the great jug at the top. Slopey holds to the top.

Face and vague arete, with improving LH sidepulls, finishing via the great jug.

Arete from R side, moving R to the same finishing jug as 'Vertical Therapy'.

Same arete as 'Sunset Delights', only from the L side, with some nice layback moves.

Face, starting from lowest level, 1m L of 'Keith's arete of Destruction'.

Rising traverse, topping out at the RH arete. Super classic and a fantastic warm up.

Tackles the concave face, not using the LH arete and finishing via the jug at the top.

Swing start dyno (start with one foot on the wall and jump) using RH on arete, to jug.

Essentially 'Mr Angry Head' without the swing start; In other words establish yourself on the rock and then dyno for the top. Technical and fun.

Obvious bear hug arête, like holding refrigerator block.

Super classic sit start to 'Bear Huggies' and very pleasant for the grade. A Harvey's Marbles must do!

Same sit start as 'Squatting Bear', only move R into 'Trixter', moving R along crimps to the slab and up this. Technical and good.

Start off the pair of edges on the RH arête of 'Bear Huggies'. Across to and up the face just R to finish.

A short cruisy face and arête with some nice scoops.

A nice beginner problem that can be started from numerous holds and heights, but it's best started low off on opposing sidepulls.

Up steep wall on downhill side to jugs and then traverse L along the crack to finish. The scary direct mantle is still to go.

Start as for Pikers Variant but after getting the halfway jug, head up and R to finish above the little gully.

Hard slab with some very technical footwork. Start from lowest level.

Standing start, move up through the dihedral using thin crimps and side-pulls. A high jug gives a small reprieve before topping out on slopers.

From small crimps move up to good edge and then chunky flake.

Up to layback. Finish direct. Scary.

Up from slopey holds at lip of roof. Sit start under the roof with crimps. See also “Poached Variant”.

Same as “Poached” but using big flake for feet.

Sit-start open project

The obvious overhung arete with a standing start.

Sit start to screamer. Classic and sustained up a steep arete. The convenient block/flake is not in as a starting hold for the right foot.

Face and arete with a long floaty dynamic crux. The small block directly below the arete is in for feet at the start.

Note: the RH start hold broke mid-2022. The problem still goes at around V10.

Slab starting from ground level L of small block, then moving out R.

Contrived. Same start as 'Out of Reach' only keeping L of small block, except for starting RH hold. Straight up through some desperately sloping holds.

Just R of 'Soft Pockets', on the blank looking wall. Hard move to pop to a multitude of mono's (swing start ok) and then to up via a slightly better micro-pocket!

The blocky arête between 'Live's Pockets' and 'Soft Pockets'. Up via a very cool RH pinch at the crux.

The tricky RH end/arete of the big slab, covered in lichen. Starts above the big foothold. Really interesting and climbs better than it looks.

Starts just R of 'Strictly Ballroom' above the big diagonal foothold. Up on multiple mono pockets. Balancy and tough.

Starts in center left of slab, moving up and out L to a small foothold and then up.

The direct start to Strictly Ballroom.

The face and arête with an undercut start to a balancy finish. Excellent.

The blank face with the good starting hold at about half height. This and a pathetic slope are it though. Harvey's Marbles first V5 problem.

The face and arête just L of tree. Start standing on the flake embedded in the ground, with slopey sidepull for LH and incut tooth for RH. Reachy and hard move up and R to the sidepull and up. Reach dependant start.

The small corner on the downhill face starting from the L. The hard sit start is the obvious line and is yet to go.

Traverse along the front slabby face of the boulder, with a crux top out. Start as far L as possible.

Short sit start. Broken hold has made it harder.

That is how much it cost Dan Radford to do the second ascent. Up from edges to slopes and mantle.

Steep face from a standing start. Sit start will be hard!

Obvious layback.

Start just L on the bigger footholds, just R of crack, moving R to finish as for 'Banded Burritos'.

Middle of face going straight up through some thin moves.

Face 1.5 metres L of the arete. Now with a missing hold which has increased the grade. Up via some tricky moves, moving onto the arete for the top half. (Grade has been raised from V2 -V3 to reflect difficulty increase.)

The arete starting from lowest level and slightly L. Great beginner problem.

Do the sit start for “Smokey the Supercat” then traverse L to top out “Winter Woolies”

Loads of fun for everyone. Various problems up the friction slab.

Sit start the LH most slab, just R of arete, moving onto arete to finish.

Balancy slab starting in the narrow gap between the two boulders, starting from lowest level.

Fantastic wall. Very high with a cruxy finish.

Up arête and crack to higher arête on L.

Start on arête. Follow crack R to finish.

Up face and thin crack.

Start in middle of face with low edges, moving up and left to a tough finish. Face was uncovered after a large fire destroyed a tree in front of the face.

Start low, matched off the diagonal edge. See also 'Weighting Gains'.

Start in middle of face with RH on rising lip, LH on diagonal edge. Move up and mantle. See also 'Weighting Gains Variant'.

One of the few cracks at Harvey's.

High ball. Up the obvious flaky face, staying L of arete for nicest moves.

Sit start just L of the tree. Move R traversing the lip and passing around the tree. Continue and mantle about 1m R of the tree. Easy for the grade. Traverse all the way to almost the end of the boulder and up the grade to V5. Alternatively go straight up and L from the sit start for a V2.

Same as 'The Good Shorts' but traverse all the way to almost the end of the boulder.

Same as 'The Good Shorts' but alternatively go straight up and L from the sit start.

Sit start at the LH end of the overhang and traverse R along the slopey lip, finishing as far R as possible on the massive R foothold. Great low fun.

Variant to 'More Value For Your Crag'. Start sitting on the block in the middle and mantle straight up via some slopers.

RH side of wall. Up, with a terrible undercling and a small mono to start.

Small 1m boulder. Sit start with feet on small edge, hands matched on obvious lower rail. Mantle up and top out on boulder

Sit start from lowest point of arete. Move directly up on large pinches and crimps onto slab and finish.

Great dynamic problem up the steep blunt arete.

Sit start the LH arete of the steepness. Starts with RH pinch and LH on arete. Up into Global.

Sit start just R of "Globalisation Left" on the low edge. One of Harvey's hardest problems. See the guidebook for the starting holds.

4 meters R of "Globalisation Right". Up the pleasant face from the brake.

The face with opposing gastons and up. Starts with a few mats stacked to reach the higher LH gaston.

Steep and sharp, but still loads of fun. Grunt your way up the obvious overhung flake. The dead-hang pinching the base of the flake is another fun challenge.

Steep, crimpy and sharp, but also loads of fun. Up steep wall just L of tree, (1m L of "F"), starting crouched. Pop to jug and mantle.

2m L of "G" and just L of tree. Start with LH edge and RH sidepull and big move to the good edge.

Actually just L of the black streak. Up the slab starting from the flake in the ground.

4m L of Black Streak Slab. Starts at the far LH end of the long flat wall, beneath the juggy flake. Up off good edge, slap for flake and top out.

Arete tackled from the LH side.

Face above the big, crumbly foothold. Good LH and tiny low RH scoop.

Vague arête with good LH sidepull.

Squeeze into the gap and start with the big sidepull. Straight up. Watch your back.

Tall black slab just R of Cruise Control.

Easy highball following flake line to the top. Down climb or chimney against other boulder.

Good. Start at the thin crack 1.5 m L that disappears quickly. Up through bulge, moving R to join Cruise Control towards the top.

Contrived face starting from 2 very small high crimps. Straight up, avoiding big holds to the L.

Lower start of "Spaceman” still to go.

Another classic highball 2m L of "Spaceman". Starts using the obvious flake jug, then moves R up the face.

Long arête from a sit start.

Tackles the rooflet straight on. From the starting jug move up R into the roof and straight up to the top. Classic fun!

Variant of Karma Sutra. From starting jug go straight up.

The crimpy face just R of Kama Sutra is still to go.

The high face using holds on the RH vague arete. Up to jugs above middle of wall and then mantle.

The direct start from the seam "G 2" is a project and will be very tough.

Thin slab starts off good knob at lip then up on small holds and shallow pockets.

Lower start to Rice Bubbles on side pull and low knob.

Sit start to Rice Bubbles using the underclings.

Move R to the arête over the increasingly spooky landing.

Sit start off good holds either going straight up or out L to the flake.

Crouching start off the good edge directly in front of the grass tree (spikey plant). Crimpy moves on gritty edges, straight up.

Start sitting on the block, beneath the vague arete. Hard move up to lip and mantle.

Powerful sit start on good holds but with poor feet at the start.

Thin mantle 2m L of above problem, starting off the high RH hold.

Great thin face on vague arete starting just R of small tree on opposing high slopey holds. Slap for jug then mantle up and L.

Mantle direct is slightly harder.

Starts 2m R of Nahaul, on and just L of arete. Standing start on bad slopers, and find a way to get your foot up onto the one good foothold

The direct sit-start of “Too Many Slopers”.

Sit-start going L to join the start of “Too Many Slopers”. Now contrived and superseded by Alister's beta “Too Many Slopers Direct” but cool enough to include here.

Starts 1.5m L of Nahaul, on small sidepulls. Up to the jug out R, and then up and L to mantle.

Up arête just R of corner to a solid mantle. Uses crack but not wall L of crack.

Start as for Nahaul and keep go L to finish above C on slopey holds.

Corner crack from a sit or stand.

Single move mantle problem. SS on block, mantle overhang on Slopers and good feet.

The arete from the RH side.

Arete from LH side.

Face just R of arete, without using the arete.

The cool hands free slab just to the R of Disillusioned.

Don't ever bother, but if say, everything else is being climbed: Very close to the ground. Undercut sit start off obvious slopey hold in front of small tree. Watch your feet.