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Description

BEWARE THE POSSIBILITY OF MASSIVE ROCKFALL FROM THE CLIFFS ABOVE. RECENT ACTIVITY INDICATES THAT THE CLIFFS ARE CURRENTLY UNSTABLE AND CLIMBING HERE INVOLVES RECOGNISING THE OBVIOUS RISKS. A few small basalt edges below the high cliffs east of Cairns Bay beach provide a number of entertaining boulder problems, many climbed by Kai Seth Robertson, Andrew Johnson, Mandy Robertson and Karl Bromelow starting in 2007. A few of those climbed are listed below but most lines have been ascended. The edges have been named somewhat nostalgically after the gritstone edges of the English Peak District. Please don't expect the quality of the climbing to even approach that of their namesakes.

Access issues

Free access

Approach

Follow the public path from the Ti Tree Creek parking area, on the road from Flinders to Cape Schack, down to the beach and then follow the fisherman's path on the far side of the bay, under the cliffs and across the reef to the edge, Tricky at very high tide or huge swell but usually ok. Little Froggatt is reached first and includes all problems as far as Little Freerider. A gap then separates this from Little Curbar and some distance further around can be found Little Stanage and The Pap.

Routes

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Grade Route

Tiny problem from on an undercut block of relatively strong basalt on the way to the main area. Sit Start, otherwise your already up it!

FA: Karl Bromelow

FA: 19 Oct 2020

Another tiny one squeezed in right of Capsid on the same block. Sit start of course.

FA: Karl Bromelow

FA: 19 Oct 2020

Sit start left of Peregrine at side pulls into upper horizontally cracked slabby wall.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 20 Jan 2018

Wall on horizontal flakes diagonally left from left side of Kestrel overhang.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 20 Jan 2018

The big overhang.

FA: Karl Bromelow, 2016

The ledge/corner system immediately right of Kestrel finishing left at the top.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 28 Jul 2018

Traverse left and up from Took for a couple of meters. Finishing up the very small hanging corner.

FA: Andrew Johnson

FA: 21 Feb 2020

At the lowest point of the wall right of the Flightless corner is a micro problem. Sit start below two good holds lined with quartz and pull straight up with awkward feet over the small overhang.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 28 Jul 2018

Sit start with crappy feet in obvious little cave/hole between Minotaur and Pocket. Straight up.

FA: Karl Bromelow, 20 Mar 2020

FA: 20 Mar 2020

Another micro sit start problem up the undercut corner feature between Took and The Pocket

FA: Karl Bromelow & Kai Seth Robertson, 19 Feb 2019

The first set of boulders at Cairns bay are split into two distinct short edges (Little Froggatt and Little Curbar) separated by just a few meters. The Pocket takes the line on the right end of the left edge before the edge cuts back to the cliff at 90 degrees. See photo.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 2016

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, May 2017

From the same sit start as The Pocket SS but straight up dynamically.

FA: Andrew Johnson, 19 Mar 2018

Dyno directly up from part way up Big Freerider. Start with right hand on the pinch on the slightly slabby right hand face. Careful of lose rock at the top.

The overhang at it's widest right of Waverunner. Start low and move diagonally right via awkward side pull on barely hold to finish at sloping mantel on the right.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 28 Jul 2018

Climbed the day after and named in recognition of Alex Honnold's free solo of El Cap. Sit start the overhang on the extreme right of The Pocket boulder. Sit start the overhang at the extreme right of The Pocket boulder.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 4 Jun 2017

Sit start with right hand and foot around the right hand end of the edge of Little Freerider. Pull your arse off the deck then traverse left through Little Freerider and up before Big Freerider.

FA: Andrew Johnson, 21 Feb 2020

Excursion has been unclimbable for something over a year as a result of massive rockfall blocking the first moves.That is until now. Another large boulder has collapsed from the cliff above and like a monstrous game of billiards it has cleaned away the blocking boulder. Excursion is climbable again. The new boulder from above has come to rest on the cobbles nearby and created a few new problems. The first of which is the sit start of the west face by the right hand arete.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson

FA: 2 May

Tswsm tackles the small barrel overhang between easy terrain across the pebble bay from Littke Freerider. Avoid using easy ledges for feet. In other words direct direct. Fun.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 18 Aug 2019

At the left end of Little Curbar is an undercut slab facing the large detached block. Sit start and direct up slightly left of the line taken by Fraser on his Youtube video of Cairns Bay.

FA: Karl Bromelow

FA: 19 Oct 2020

Slightly harder version of Edge Hog entirely avoiding the blocky step left of the starting holds. Fun.

FA: Karl Bromelow, 10 Feb

FA: 10 Feb

Left side of the hanging slab from a sit start.

FA: Karl Bromelow, 8 Feb

Right of TSWSM is an obvious undercut hanging slab. From a sit start climb through the overhang and onto the slab above via a tricky mantel on it's righthand side.

The wall round to the right of Bbq Beef without using anything in or right of the corner.

FA: Andrew Johnson, 5 Oct 2019

A tad harder (better) than Sea C's, Bb's tackles the same wall without using the hold on the left arete, rather just use the two small crimps to move straight up the middle. Again avoid the corner and wall right of the corner. Merry Xmas.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson

FA: 25 Dec

4m right of Barbecue Beef. Up the shallow corner via pinches, slopers, smears and grunt.

FA: Karl Bromelow, 2007

Sit start direct up past letterbox slot in the undercut slab right of the corner of Ready Salted.

The obvious line through the slight overhang at the righthand end of the edge via the square block hold and big shelf. Don't pull too hard!

Traverse right to left along thin break from round the right hand end of the edge into and up Salt 'n' Vinegar.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 24 Aug 2019

2nd route climbed on The Pap. The dusty corner falls down as quickly as you climb it. It takes a certain mindset. Release your inhibitions, cast off your preconceptions and embrace the esoteric pleasure of top roping choss. Then cool off in one of the splendid rockpools nearby.

FA: Karl Bromelow, 29 Oct 2019

FA: 29 Oct 2019

The crumbling arete right of DRN.

FA: Karl Bromelow, 29 Oct 2019

The broken wall immediately right of and avoiding the arete of ZMATLR. This wall will probably be more broken after you have climbed it than before. Nothing unidentified about those flying objects!

FA: Andrew Johnson, 29 Oct 2019

5m right of UFO there is another short very broken wall with an obviousb X crack system in the upper half. Climb the snaking left side of the X. Hands in crack only. Careful, it may lay some eggs if you aren't gentle with it....

FA: Andrew Johnson, 29 Oct 2019

The right hand twin of the crack system. As for Whitesnake, hands in crack only. Yes these are eliminate lines. And unlike the song she's not rock steady (Bam-ba-lam)!

FA: Andrew Johnson

FA: 29 Oct 2019

About 300m further around under the cliffs from Little Curbar there are two obvious outcrops. One down on the reef (The Pap) but high of most tides and another half way up the cliff (Little Stanage), directly above the former. One Wrong Step is the first line to tackle the lower outcrop and follows an obvious small corner, on the western side, above a slightly better landing than most around this area (see photo).Soloed over a mat by Kai on the First Ascent.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 24 Sep 2018

The juggy square seaward arete of the arch, a good way further around the coast.

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