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Description

Some pretty sketchy cliffs up above the beach. It's not very high and can be treated as a bouldering area but the slopey, loose ground and slightly sandy holds make it a bit iffy.

Access issues inherited from Mornington

Best to head there at low tide.

Approach

as you're walking along the rocks there's a point where a bunch of shopping trolleys have been pushed off the cliff above, if you walk up there you should find Theo's Doom

Descent notes

After topping out you can walk along the top to the left and get down easy

Ethic inherited from Mornington Peninsula

NO BOLTS. TO PRESERVE WHAT LITTLE AVAILABLE ADVENTURE WE HAVE DOWN HERE, PLEASE LEAVE DRILLS AT HOME.

Routes

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Grade Route

A kind of dodgy climb up the crack in the corne of the cliff, topping out to the right.

FA: Fraser Gust, 1 Aug 2017

A traverse starting from the walkdown point to the left. traverses along the low wall until you reach the main wall of the cliff

FA: Fraser Gust, 1 Aug 2017

A boulder down and to the left of the cliff with one route up the front

FA: Fraser Gust, 1 Aug 2017

Direct sit start from the left end of the break and straight up Social Anxiety.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson

FA: 27 Jul 2022

A really cool climb up the right face of the crack of terror. Start mid way along the chest height ledge, move up and left through good crimps to the top

Starts similarly to social anxiety but heads up directly and a little bit right using good edges on the face

an extension to 'Social Anxiety'. begin around the corner from the original problem with a run and jump up to the ledge. traverse left around the ledge into the start of the original problem. gets tiring

Scarier than it is hard. Jumpstart up to the rail on the ocean face of the cliff and lever yourself up using the arete

Start far right with good pinch on the arete for your right and small crimp pinch for the left. One powerful campus gets you to the rail and on from there. Unsure of the grade

Jump up to the break and then head to the top using small face holds (No use of left arête or chossy crack on right)

Starts at the back of the shallow cave on shoddy rock to the right of Pandemic Panic then traverse right out across the roof crack, feet on vertical sand, then straight up the pocketed blunt arête to finish.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 6 Sep 2022

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

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