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Langley 197 Bushland Reserve

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Summary

The larger of the two areas at Benloch. Nice problems with very easy access.

Description

Charming highballs and nice low grade problems. The bouldering is clustered within a 200 square meter area. The first problems listed are closest to Feeneys Lane and the last problem listed, 'Pogo's Arete' marks the end of the boulder field, everything else is in between. There is more to develop here if you're keen.

There is poor mobile reception here. Your best bet seems to be near 'Love Slap'.

Access issues

None as of yet. Please park as much off the road as possible and keep a low profile.

Approach

The boulders run along the edge of Feeneys Lane, just off Malones Rd. Park on Feeneys Lane (just after reflective street pole #18) and walk 10m up the hill to 'Because Pockets'. Continue uphill to 'Aromatically Challanged'. Assuming you are walking away from the road, head left and a little further uphill to 'Poo-Stain Arrete', 'Grandpa's Crack' and 'The Burrow'. Continue leftward over the hump and you will reach 'Love Slap'. Right of here are 'Cutting Shapes', 'Tough on Crime' and 'Pogo's Arete'.

Ethic

No bolting, no chipping, and please brush all chalk and tick marks.

Routes

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Grade Route

The closet sector to the car park. Because Pockets and The Burrow are visible from the road on the hillside. Aromatically Challenged boulder and Tough on Crime boulder lie to the right of Because Pockets (if looking at it from the road).

Climb the slab below the Golden Oldie Boulder on unlikely pockets

FA: Evan.C, 2017

Sit start off a hidden undercling and make your way up on nice slopers

FA: Evan.C, 2017

Sit start as for The Burrow then move up and left to the arete, cruising up the delightful juggy sidepulls.

FA: Toby, 30 Jun 2019

On the right of "The Burrow". This climb packs about 10 hand-moves into such a short space! Sit start straddling the left-arete. Left hand on a crimp under the overhang and right hand on a crimp on the sloping arete. Move up then traverse left toward the sloping crimp and 3-finger pocket before rocking back onto the face. Don't use the massive rock on the left.

Can also be done as a stand at an easier grade.

FA: Jamie, Feb 2021

Sit start and hug your way up the end of the boulder on side-pulls and bulges, nice and high

FA: Evan.C, 2017

Sit start as for Golden Oldie but halfway swing around the corner to the left at the thin horizontal crack and use good crimps in the blank wall above to reach the ramp. Don't use Grandpa's Crack.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 28 Jun

Sit start and head straight up the crack system

FA: joe tynan, 2017

In the nook on the uphill end of the Golden Oldie boulder. Sit start from the break, up keeping close to RH arete via interesting pockets to entertaining top out.

FA: Toby & Luke Batchelor, 2021

On the opposite side of the Golden Oldie boulder to Grandpa's Crack. Sit start from the top of the ramp at the big pocket, move straight up face via cool sidepull and incuts to top out. Everything right of the big jagged RH crack is out. Bad landing, best not to fall.

FA: Toby & Luke Batchelor, 2021

Sit start

FA: Evan.C, 2017

Dyno from the crimp rail to the lip and mantle

From the crimp rail head left through more crimps (will be V9 minimum when it goes)

Stand start and mantle the shelf. Note: Can be done from a sit starting to the right - not much change in grade (P. Reynolds, 28/6/2022).

FA: joe tynan, 2017

Sit start and compress up the bulge

FA: joe tynan, 2017

Stand start at the pockets. Nice powerful climbing.

The massive flake has fallen off. The stand has been re-established as V1.

FA: Evan.C, 2017

Sit start left, finish as for Tough on Crime.

The massive flake has fallen off. The sit has been re-established as V1-2.

FA: Evan.C, 2017

This sector lies up and to the left of Because Pockets and is about a 3-5 minute walk uphill. The main boulder with the Totem and other climbs are located just before the hill flattens out.

Sit start and hug up. Must finish standing on top with arms over your head.

FA: Kate Campbell

SDS with right hand on good crimp and left hand on your choice of poor features. Ascend direct.

Eliminate obvious detached flakes at bottom of the climb (watch your ankles on a fall) and pull lightly on jug at top.

FA: Jamie, 1 Aug 2021

FA: Kate Campbell, 2017

Sit start

FA: Kate Campbell, 2017

Climb up the crack

FA: Kate Campbell, 2017

Sit start and head up the slab

FA: Kate Campbell, 2017

Stand start on double underclings, then head straight up using slopers and the rib on the bottom of the flake

FA: Evan.C, 2017

(Not Pictured) Climb up the scoop right of Love Slap

FA: Evan.C, 2017

Painfully thin crimps and corner arete behind Flakelicious. SDS with sharp left-hand (questionable) crimp and right-hand divet on the blocky foot shelf. Stand and mantel without using the highest foot shelf. Likely to beach whale.

FA: Jamie Ung

Left of "Verbal Clap". Stand start using opposing crimps, paste the right foot on an throw to sloper, mantel.

Located about 50m from the Totem. Walk to the Totem, then head away from the road for about 50m. You should see this lone boulder shortly. Stand-start with hands on the beautifully smooth edge. Paste feet and lunge (dyno?) for the top. Maybe V6 for shorter people?

FA: Steve Holloway, 2022

This boulder lies about 50 metres to the left of "The Totem" (if looking from the road). From a sit, start with hands matched on the excellent rail. Move directly upward using side pulls and crimps.

Eliminate obvious ledges directly below the start hold and to the left. Feet should be on holds above these ledges.

FA: Jamie, 1 Aug 2021

This area can be found by heading directly up hill from Because Pockets to where the hill flattens out. Look for a set of boulders with Cutting Shapes being the obvious one to look for due to its distinct shape.

Stand start with a hand on the arete right, make improbable moves to the sloping lip and top out.

FA: Evan.C, 2017

Short face right of the arete. Up via a crimp, pocket with poor feet and mantel avoiding the arete to the left.

FA: @dalai, 12 Oct 2018

Sit start on side-pull flakes and pull straight to the crimp up high. Beware of loose flakes. Will clean up over time.

FA: Jamie

Stand start on opposing side-pulls (double gaston?). Paste the right foot into the sloping pocket, stand high with the left, and launch up and right to a sloper finishing as for "Mistaken Identity"

To the left of Cutting Shapes (if facing away from the road). Stand start on the right of the sloping pocket. Paste the left foot into the pocket and throw out right to a sloping edge. Match and top out however you can.

FA:

To the left of "Cutting Shapes". The small boulder has a 3-move easy crimp line. Crouch start with hands matched on angled crimp and mantel.

FA: Jamie, 1 Aug 2021

This boulder area lies far back from the main road. From Because Pockets, walk toward the Cutting Shapes boulder. Once here, look to the right and down hill. There should be two large boulders. Pogo's Arete is on the right boulder while the remaining climbs are on the left.

Stand start and climb the crimps leftward to top. Great moves and tough at the grade.

FA: Evan.C, 2017

Thin slab veering slightly right

FA: 12 Oct 2018

SDS right under vertical arete.

FA: 12 Oct 2018

Gravelly arete. Might eventually clean up.

FA: 12 Oct 2018

Often unvisited as it is far from the main bouldering area. Park near lightpost #19 and look for a giant pillar.

Obvious arete in the cluster close to the road just before light post #19. Sit start in a bear hug then cruise up. Be gentle, don't break off the thin flake!

FA: Toby, 30 Jun 2019

In the same area as Party Pillar. Stand-start with left-hand on undercling and right-hand on crimp. Traverse right, step up high and top out direct.

FA: Jamie, Dec 2020

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Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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