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Description

Small section of edge offering a few nice problems including a fine arete.

Faces North

Access issues inherited from Coopers

None as yet. Please don't make me regret making this spot public.

Coopers primarily consists of easier problems, but doesn’t make it is an ideal spot for beginners. Bouldering here isn’t the same as bouldering indoors!

Many of the landings are rough and sloping. The top outs are not always obvious. The problems are still shedding holds or require you to know how to pull correctly on loose rock.

Be mindful that Coopers is in one of the few remaining wildlife corridors in the area as Melbourne continues to spread outwards. As a result you will see many Kangaroos and other wildlife including Echidna’s. So leave your dog at home! Avoid trampling the native vegetation; though feel free to bring gardening gloves and remove weeds.

Keep the area clean! Take away rubbish even if not yours. Brush chalk off the holds and if you need to use tick marks, wash them off before you move on to the next problem.

Respect the location. If you can I may consider making some of my other local areas public.

Approach

Less than 100m from the car. Park and head north to the edge

Descent notes

When above and looking North. Easy scramble down the right end.

History

History timeline chart

Developed by Martin Lama in October 2016

Slowly adding problems to the guide here as I revisit them.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Balancy rounded double arete to pocket

Thin pocketed slab between the scoop and ledge to the right and arete to the left. Has been climbed at an easier grade using the scoop but is better without.

SDS left side of the arete avoiding the blocky shelf to the left. V2 from a stand.

SDS The right side of the tall chiseled arete. Edge of the crack Warsteiner is out and no stacked pads for the sit start.

V3 from a stand.

Fridge hug sit start using the Trois Pistoles arete and the left edge of the Warsteiner crack. Everything on the righthand side of the crack is out. Finish as for TP once you run out of fridge.

SDS Hand crack

SDS First moves as for Warsteiner, then following the obvious line right and up.

SDS Subtle arete and face above the horizontal.

SDS Face via the cross hairs pocket and up the crack.

Capital Fest to the cross hair pocket, then veer slightly right climbing the face without the cracks either side.

SDS Old school corner crack

Contrived variant start to Hog Haus Fat Boy Blue.

SDS immediately right of Third Stone Brown. Start on a low sidepull and flat shelf immediately right of the TSB crack. Up using only the right edge of the TSB crack as a sidepull to gain the diagonal shelf of HHFBB.

SDS Arete. Undercut start on sharp jugs

SDS on sharp jugs to the right of the arete to follow the shelf left and then finishing up just right of Third Stone Brown

SDS as for Hog Haus Fat Boy Blue continuing up the right face.

SDS wide easy corner crack

Mantel onto the sloping ledge and up the face above

SDS Up left onto the sloping ledge and up the face.

The undercut sharp arete currently starting standing with high crimp and pocket either side of the arete. Shelf out left is out for the feet.

SDS is still a closed project for just a little longer.

Closed project SDS Right side of the arete.

Focussed on the face and left arete project, the fridge hugging option was previously unjustly ingored.

SDS Using the left edge of the Old Style crack and the left arete, compress your way up the undercut leaning face.

May be easier. But I only got on it at the end of the day and it took more effort and attempts than expected.

SDS Steep corner crack

SDS hands below low overlap. Slope up right to pocket and edges above

In between "Red Baron" and "Westmalle Dubbel". SDS. Ascend the crack using both faces until the rising line of jugs on the left. Traverse all the way left and up.

FA: Jamie Ung, 23 Apr 2020

SDS Arete via hanging blade.

SDS middle of the overhanging face.

SDS Right side of the face using the arete.

SDS The short narrow face immediately right of Oude Kriek started by laybacking off the right edge of the wide crack.

8m right of Zhiguly Ekstra Alus is a square cut face. SDS the short face left of the arete.

SDS Tackle the front of the arete direct.

SDS Fridge hug the right side of the arete.

SDS Sidepull the left edge of Nikolausbier Altfränkisches Dunkel to horizontals and face above.

SDS the flared crack.

SDS Long first move from the blocky pinch for the right and shallow mono on the face for the left then short crack above. Eliminates all of the crack and face left of Nikolausbier Altfränkisches Dunkel.

Immediately right of Brooklyner Weisse is a short alcove sitting on a sloping rock ledge . Widmer Hefeweizen takes the overhanging capstone on the right.

Standing start with hands under the capstone and only using the face directly below for the feet.

Bad landing.

SDS Outer right arete of the alcove.

Zig zag crack up the face.

Has also been climbed finishing right of the top crack at around V0-.

SDS Right leaning crack. Scabby rock is cleaning up.

SDS down left to avoid the block directly below the start of the line. Up and right into the wide right crack. Fist jambs to arm bars. Again scabby rock is cleaning up.

Awkward SDS on the hanging lower triangular block eliminating all underneath, topping out directly over the overhanging top block.

Stand start double underclings low right and mid left to jugs and up. Eliminating all but the spike - block and shelf are out for feet to start.

SDS wide corner crack immediately left of the sharp prow of Polygamy Porter.

Sharp prow 3m right of Thurn and Taxis Roggen. SDS via shelf on the nose and positive breaks.

SDS the narrow right face eliminating the shelf on the nose plus wall to the right including the crack.

SDS corner

SDS straight up front face. Crack to left and holds R of arete are out.

SDS cruisy rounded arete

SDS undercling and pocket to start. Long reaches between smooth breaks up the slightly overhung face.

8m right of Geriatric Hipster Club is another alcove.

SDS overhanging arete on its left side.

Corner crack stepping right and up at the top.

SDS face and over the capstone.

SDS easy crack.

Beware there is currently a large amount of discarded barbed wire on the ground which will be removed when I return with wire cutters.

SDS leaning arete right of the crack.

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Activity

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