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Seasonality

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Summary

A house size boulder with a couple of extra leaning blocks close to Gembrook.

Description

The main block has a number of routes, scant protection but multiple new anchors on top for rigging TRs or abseils. The rock is good quality granite with several intruding dykes providing welcome holds. There's more moss than anything else, and you're right on the walking track, but it might provide a few hours entertainment.

Access issues

Free access

Approach

Easy approach from the picnic area car park a short walk down the waterfall track.

History

History timeline chart

Seemingly developed primarily by Danny, Dave, Ken, Joe and Mike Adshead in the 90s. More problems and variants than those listed have been done.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Route details unknown; grade is estimate after a lockdown break and with a lot of moss.

Obvious line with a ringbolt on the face where you approach from the carpark. Would be harder if you avoided holds on the left.

Obvious easy arete on the main block.

FA: Danny Adshead, 1993

Right side of the main face to yet another mossy topout. Depending on line this wall is roughly grade 12-22.

Middle of the main face to yet another mossy topout. Depending on line this wall is roughly grade 12-22.

Left side of the main face to yet another mossy topout. Depending on line this wall is roughly grade 12-22.

Bridge off the small block then straight up. Currently partially obscured by fallen tree.

Route details unknown; grade is estimate after a lockdown break and with a lot of moss.

Start bridging off the small block then follow the bolts up the corner. Currently partially obscured by fallen tree.

Route details unknown; grade is estimate after a lockdown break and with a lot of moss.

Right side of the small block, up past a rusty carrot. If you don't want to solo it, toprope off the bolts on top of the main block.

Route details unknown; grade is estimate after a lockdown break and with a lot of moss.

Middle of the small block. If you don't want to solo it, toprope off the bolts on top of the main block.

Route details unknown; grade is estimate after a lockdown break and with a lot of moss.

Left arete of the small block. If you don't want to solo it, toprope off the bolts on top of the main block.

"On the steep side of the downhill face of the Loadstone (smaller boulder), bridge the corner". Presumably this starts in the alcove and bridges between the main block and the smallest block.

FA: Michael Adshead, 1993

The right side of the steep face of the small block...

FA: Joe Adshead, 1993

Route details unknown; grade is estimate after a lockdown break and with a lot of moss.

Start in the chimney bridging between the two smaller blocks, using the back wall on the main block when you can. At the capstone, traverse out onto the front face then up.

FA: Ken Adshead & David Adshead, 1983

Up the right arete of the larger of the two smaller blocks, bridging across to the smaller block until standing on the jug.

FA: David Adshead, 1983

The obvious arete, a couple of metres right of 'Sandman'. Boulder the reachy start, then up.

FA: Danny Adshead, 1993

Obvious crack on the downhill side of the crag, which serves as a leaf trap and seems to seep longer than it should. Apparently awkward...

FA: Danny Adshead, 1994

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