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Rock Garden Boulders

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Summary

Probably the easiest and best of the accessible areas.

Description

A variety of grades which are accessible for beginners and more seasoned climbers alike.

Approach

From the car park, walk on Valley View Track for about 15 minutes until you come to an intersection. Directly ahead is the "Rock Garden" walk. Follow this trail for approximately 100 metres and then cut right for about 30 metres. There should be scattered boulders around the area with a MTB trail going through it.

Ethic inherited from Lysterfield Boulders

Lysterfield Park is a BOULDERING ONLY area. Please refrain from bolting any routes. All longer routes and highballs can be top-roped without fixed anchors. This park is also shared among bike riders, walkers, and other user groups. Please show respect by giving way to bike riders and keeping your items out of their way.

Keep to designated tracks. All plants, animals, other natural features, and cultural sites are protected and must NOT be disturbed or removed. There is no rubbish collection inside the park, please take all rubbish home with you for recycling and disposal, even if it may not be yours.

No dogs or pets are permitted in the park. Feeding wildlife is bad for their health. It is an offence to feed or leave food where it is accessible to wildlife. Penalties apply. Loud noise can disturb wildlife. Please respect the local wildlife and keep noise to a minimum.

Routes

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Grade Route

Left end of the upper tier at the Rock Garden - Sit start with both hands on excellent but sharp pinch.

Stand-start from the pinch and mantel.

Stand start from the left hand side pull. Straight up to the sloping rail.

The arete on the L at the middle of the upper tier. Sit start on the flat big hold on the L and low R crimp. Up and R to finish as for Lystie Slip.

Note: flat hold on the left has broken off. Re-established with two hands on low crimp. Punch for the jug on the arete before continuing with the original climb. Hard V5.

FA: Matthew Brooks

Same start but go straight up.

Note: critical flat hold has broken off. Likely to go without it but hard. SDS with two hands on crimp heading directly up without using obvious holds on right (i.e., holds on Lysterine). V6-8?

Crouch start within the indentation, traversing outward to the slab, using friction-dependent moves to the top out.

FA: 1 Mar 2020

Right wall of mini gully directly opposite Lysterine. Stand-start with right hand on a crimpy slot and head up.

Deceptively difficult. Stand-start on left hand undercling + right hand good side pull. Head directly up using crimps onto a sloping mantel without escaping to the right at the top.

FA: Bron Holdgate & Jamie, 26 Sep

Stand start on flakes immediately right of the wide crack in the middle of the upper tier.

Line up the middle of the right face of the upper tier - scrapes the germs off your hands and the skin if you fall - hence the name.

Stand start with left hand on sloping dish and right hand on sharp crimp. Hard for the grade.

Shares start hold with Sanitizer. Stand-start with left hand on sharp 3-finger crimp and right hand on anything. Establish high foot on wall and punch up.

Possibly been done before but grade not known.

Standing start blunt right double arete.

Left hand low sidepull (fragile) and right hand palming the arete. Straight up. Note the detached blocky footer flake down to the right and good pocket around right on Back Track are off route.

FA:

Standing start. Same first move as Off Track, but avoids the harder finish by traversing around right onto the slab with great pockets. Finish either going immediately up or traverse a move or two further right then up before the rock step. Blocky detached footer is in on this one.

FA:

SDS added 18/10/21. A short beginner line. Start on two left crimps and make a powerful move to poor holds on the right before moving into the original climb.

Originally done as a stand-start at about V0. Start with open hands, and left foot on the decent edge. Palm your way up to the good lip.

FA: Jamie & Bron Holdgate, 9 Oct

A short line that heads directly up the left side of the protruding block on slopers. Stand-start and mantel.

Might creep to V2 on repeat?

FA: Jamie & Bron Holdgate, 9 Oct

A slightly harder variant. Stand-start with right hand on triangular crimp and left hand on any of the slopers. Mantel to the right of the featured block on few holds, just palms.

FA: Jamie, 9 Oct

A one-move wonder which involves hard crimping. SDS with left hand on crimp in the middle of the face and right hand on low crimp in the diagonal. Pull on difficulty but mantel easily. No crouch starting.

FA: Jamie & Bron Holdgate, 17 Oct

Found just above the slab that forms the lower tier slabs, is a slot. This is the R arete of that abyss from a sit-start. Avoid leaning back on the opposing wall. Very cramped.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 8 Jul 2019

Left end of the easy slab in the lower tier. Series of decent hold running up left.

Careful. MTB ride down this slab. Dont get run over by a mad Mountain Biker. Stand-start and up by any means.

They ride down this too. Stand-start and up.

Named for the flake with the greenery constantly growing out of it. Stand-start on crimps before heading up.

A few metres left of the mantle at the awkward start and long slab. Grade is partially for the precarious nature of the top.

The obvious overhead mantel and high slab above. One move and then slab.

Hard start and sketchy finish on a high slab with disappearing holds enjoy.

Directly downhill below The Mantel. SDS with hands on flat edges. Up and over.

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