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Routes in North East for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 207 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Mount Buffalo Eurobin Falls
19 Llafnwod

Now with 3 bolts and a rap station at 45m. Still a bold start, but makes for a great climb. Place a high runner in the corner of MoP, then delicate traverse across slab to good holds, then up.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff

Trad 130m, 3
20 Brian Fish
Unknown 120m
Mount Buffalo Mt McLeod
19 Glycerine Tears
Unknown 75m
19 Further and Further
Unknown 250m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Glass Gully
20 Wake In Fright
Unknown 25m
20 High Voltage
Unknown 45m
19 Short Circuit
Unknown 30m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim
18/19 Unknown

2m Left of Thin Wall Special Pineapple delight is an un-named line of bolts in a shallow crack. Access as per TWSPD.

Sport 18m, 4
20 Horizontal Kung Fu
Trad 15m
20 Home James

Great climbing up some fantastic dyke features, can be a little hard to find. A few carrot bolts and some small to medium cams and wires.

To access, rap down slab from big chock stone that you sling just around a large boulder past the hang glider ramp. You should be able to see the dykes near where the wall turns vertical as you rap down. There is a super comfy belay at the bottom with two carrot bolts.

Set by James McIntosh

FA: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger, 1994

Mixed trad 30m, 4
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Chaos Gully
19 Get Knotted
Unknown 25m
20 To Be Or Knot To Be
Unknown 40m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Mushroom Rock
20 Bower Bird
Unknown 45m
20 Speed
Unknown 50m
19 Turtles All the Way Down
Unknown 30m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Devilled Cream Buttress
19 Dispossession
Unknown 60m
19 Lost Planet
Unknown 25m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Isotope Wall
19 Goat's Head Soup
Unknown 50m
19 Quickstep
Unknown 53m
20 Diamond Dogs
Unknown 65m
20 Isotope
Unknown 82m
19 Stumble On A Chimp's Dick
Unknown 110m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress
19 Where Angels Fear to Tread Direct Start

Very runout first pitch to WAFTT. Up flaring fist crack for 10m then step left onto face and run out the rest of the pitch on the slabs. Very bold lead.

Trad 26m
20 The Fallen Angel
Unknown 220m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Disabled Lookout Area
20 Autocrat Direct Finish
Unknown 40m
20 Three Amigos
Unknown 25m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Bent's Lookout
19 M1 The Establishment Composite Variant
Aid 66m, 2
20 War Pigs
Unknown 60m
20 Coming Up For Air

Rap down the chimneys below the 'climbers lookout', then walk out onto the ledge. Arrange a rap down the corner to a hanging 2 carrot belay.

Traverse left (looking in) and down to good ledges before moving up past a carrot and onto the arete. Up the arete past a few more bolts and a few cam placements

Mixed trad 30m, 4
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Sewer Wall
19 Diagonal Darkie
Unknown 35m
19 Winnie The Pooh
Unknown 88m
19 M4 Pooh Corner
Aid 130m, 2
19 Penetrator Crack
Unknown 30m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side The Oval Area
19 Suburban Sausage
Trad 30m
20 City Street
Trad 30m
19 Comeback Trail

Route goes totally free at 18/19. Easy laybacking to some tricky moves through the roof. Great climbing.

FFA: Tim & scott crameri, Jan 2016

Trad 29m
20 M2 Jumping Jack Flash
Aid 40m, 2
20 Wicked Solitaire Variant 2

Variant start to Wicked Solitaire. Climb the arete past 3 bolts.

Trad 25m
20 The Short Reache

Wide crack/chimney R of WS. Rap in towards waterfall from WS rap point.

Up chimney, move Across into corner then up crack to belay on ledge. Scramble up L to top.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Eddie Ozols, 1976

Trad 42m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side The Waterfall South Side
20 X Pussy on the Prowl
Trad 35m
19 Pulsing Sally
Unknown 30m
20 Off Coarse

Hand crack below bell boys bereavement. rap 100m down from the top of LGL to the base of this crack.

Trad 20m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Cassia Corner
20 Sicilian Dragon
Unknown 45m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side Pulpit Rock(Comet Ramp)
19 In The Same Vein
Unknown 37m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side North Wall
20 Defender Of The Faith Variant Finish

FA: S Mentz & I Vickers, 1995

Trad 80m
20 M5 Knocking On Heavens Door

Start: Abseil 50m down R from 'Fuhrer' Ledge to a shallow corner with grass tree and ledge at 12m.

  1. 40m (-)

  2. 27m (- M5)

  3. 35m (20)

  4. 8m (-) R to join 'Ozymandias' about 15m above Big Grassy. Finish up the last 5 and a half pitches of 'Ozymandias', or up 'Ozymandias Direct' or whatever else takes your fancy in the vicinity.

FA: Dave Gairns & Reg Marron, 1976

Aid 110m, 2
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side Queen Victoria Buttress
19 M2 Too Young to be Free
Aid 210m, 2
19 M1 Queen Victoria Route
Aid 440m, 2
Mount Buffalo Reservoir Environs Wombat Rocks
20 Aerobics Oz Style
Unknown 55m
20 Diddly Squat
Unknown 25m
20 Alfisti
Unknown 40m
19 The Young Ones
Unknown 25m
Mount Buffalo Reservoir Environs Mt Dunn
19 Feeling Like A You Yangs Activist

The most northerly wall, containing three cracks and several horizontal breaks. Take the second crack.

FA: James McIntosh, 1991

Trad 12m
Mount Buffalo Reservoir Environs Og, Gog & Magog
19 Connoisseur
Trad 17m
Mount Buffalo Lake Catani The Monolith
20 Morpheus Direct Start
Trad 18m
20 Delicate Dalliance
Unknown 15m
Mount Buffalo Lake Catani Chalwell Galleries
19 Untouched by Human Hands

Follow the RH flake crack (finger/hand) to slab. Follow 2 bolts with homemade(!) hangers straight up slab (retrobolted in 2010).

FA: Mike Law & Simon Kenny, 1977

Mixed trad 35m, 2
20 Mars
Unknown 10m
19 Join the Dots

Starts approximately in centre of face, a few metres R of Epic. The crack, then slab past 1BR and 1RB.

Set by kim carrigan & john smoothy, 1978

Sport 18m, 2
19 Epic
Trad 18m
Mount Buffalo Lake Catani The Leviathan
V1 Porridge and Coffee

Has probably been done many times before. The vertical flake on the left from a stand start, using the wall for feet. Top out.

Boulder 3m
Mount Buffalo Le Souef Plateau The Sentinel
20 The Northwest Face of the Sentinel

Thin seam up the Northwest Face of the Sentinel. Don't knock it over!

FA: Bill Andrews, Rein Kamar & Keith Wadsworth, 1971

FFA: Mike Law, 1975

Trad 12m
20 Pain And Happiness
Unknown 12m
Mount Buffalo Le Souef Plateau Kokomo Outcrop
20 Kokomo
Unknown 20m
Mount Buffalo Le Souef Plateau The Castle
20 Butterflies Are Doodle
Mixed trad 25m, 3
19 Unnamed 1
Unknown 25m
20 Variations
Unknown 35m
20 Mustang Sally
Unknown 25m
20 Young Guns
Unknown 18m
20 Knitting Notes For The Modern Feminist
Unknown 25m
19 Village Green
Unknown 25m
Mount Buffalo Le Souef Plateau Mahomet's Coffin
19 Better Not Peak
Unknown 10m
20 Anti Bad Guy Division
Unknown 15m
Mount Buffalo The Cathedral
20 Precious

Flaring crack on the left before you enter the gulch. Don't get it confused with Jaws (which is in the Gulch on the left) otherwise you're gonna have a bad time!

Unknown 20m
20 Hair Trigger
Sport 25m
20 Sultan

Majestic.

Start: Start at the commandingly wide corner (with a dog leg to the left halfway up) leading towards the big roof.

  1. 20m (20) Follow the wide corner, passing an old aid bolt that is now superseded by a large cam (#4 Camalot or equiv.). Move on up to belay in the cave.

  2. 15m (15) Up the short wall on the right and enjoy the easy but very airy traverse to a small stance in an alcove. Belay with 1 carrot bolt, plus gear.

  3. 30m (18) A fantastic finalé. An awkward start leads to an amazing collection of big flakes stacked on top of each other, creating a wonderful line of jugs. Once the holds run out, run it out up the slab above to the top of the pinnacle (DBB).

Descent as for Maharaja (17).

FA: Ewbank & John Worral, 1968

FFA: Mike Law & Nic Taylor, 1974

Trad 65m, 3
20 Sultan Variant

Continue straight up the crack in the right wall after the crux of Sultan (so the whole route is actually 20) to join the end of the second pitch.

FA: K Lindorff & J Boreham, 1981

Trad 15m
20 Strange Angels
Unknown 15m
19 Fire in the Foothills

Furthest left line of bolts across small gully from Maharaja.

Up via pocket to first BR of 'Shell Shock', then left and up past another 5 or 6 BRs to ubolts.

FA: Josef Goding & Naomi Gibbs, 2006

Sport 25m, 7
20 Bloodnok Direct Start
Unknown 18m
19 Something Under The Bed Is Drooling

The left hand line on the front of the buttress beloextw Maharajah and around right from Compulsion. The next few routes start from the top of a boulder. Tricky scramble up or rap down and left from the Sunrunner anchors.

Unknown 30m
19 The Viking

Up off width corner crack to 2 meters left of Sunrunner. Changes from stacks to hands about halfway up. Use Sunrunner anchor at the top to rappel down.

Rapping just to the base of the clean corner and climbing back up from there gives an excellent grade 15 route. Rap to the ground if you want to do the steep bouldery crux start [and detract some stars, because its unpleasant and way out of character with the corner].

FA: N Osbourne, Peter Watling & Ann Bevan, 1970

FFA: Iain Sedgmen & Robert Burke, 1979

Unknown 40m
20 Lord High Executioner

Up to first belay on The Pinch. Step left onto slab and into crack. Up crack onto slab and summit.

Replaced anchor Feb 2018

Unknown 46m
19 Sorcerer's Apprentice

steep fist to offwidth (crux) corner crack to desperate top out (rap rings) Approach is also tricky

Trad 35m
19 Longbow

Start as for Sorcerer's apprentice (up the mossy little corner on the left). Up obvious corner, starting at hands and widening to OW at the top. A #5 is nice.

Access to the rap bolts on sorcerer's apprentice is possible by walking away from the edge about 10-15m, to a point where you can easily scramble up a level.

FA: John Crocker & W Dainton, 1974

FFA: Iain Sedgman & Giles Bradbury, 1976

Trad 18m
Mount Buffalo The Hump Area Summit Areas
19 Dateless
Unknown 15m
20 Cross Purposes
Unknown 15m
20 Daughter Of The Devil
Unknown 15m
20 Herr Bosch
Unknown 12m
19 Suicide Blonde
Unknown 10m
Mount Buffalo The Hump Area The Hump
20 The Organgrinder's Monkey
Unknown 15m
19 Beg, Borrow Or Steal
Unknown 60m, 2
19 On Remand

FA: Jeremy Boreham

Unknown 30m
20 Cows with Guns

Start from the top of pinnacle at the bottom of the buttress. Up the right line of bolt through scoop to abseil chains. Take some gear for the belay, and the flake.

FA: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger, 1999

Mixed trad 50m, 7
19 Chickens in Choppers

Fine moderate slabbing up the narrow buttress. Well protected (for Buffalo), on big shiny carrots.

To get to the start, the guidebook update advises rapping from the Cows With Guns chains, but it's best to get a belay for the exposed scramble down the narrow buttress to the two carrot top belay, and then rap from there. Avoid the horror chimney/offwidth at all costs. Trad belay (med cams) on the awesome surfboard chockstone to start.

Traverses all the way (past BR) to the Arete.

Trad 30m
19 Run free with the buffalo

According to the update, this route climbs the wall direct straight from the belay. 6 BR's.

Mixed trad 30m, 6
20 Cow Well Hung
Unknown 30m
20 Advanced Dentistry
Unknown 90m
20 Glossop Skins Pitch 3
Unknown 30m
Mount Buffalo Buckland Slabs Upper Cliff
19 A Star Is Born
Unknown 55m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 207 routes.

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