Routes in North East for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 178 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Mount Buffalo Eurobin Falls
23 Tiger Angel
Unknown 45m
23 Muscle Beach

"Probably the best slick slab in Victoria". Originally had only 4 bolts, retrobolted by Mikl Dec 2010. Start: Start 5m R of TR at left facing flake. Up to rap station, eay climbing above this to join MoP or rap off.

FA: Michael Law & Maureen Gallagher, 1983

Sport 45m, 9
22 Under Glass
Unknown 45m
22 In For A Swim Direct
Unknown 130m
Mount Buffalo Mackeys Lookout
22 Weekend Hustlers

Up the line via some small trad gear and two bolts. When the corner seam peters out (at the second bolt?), there is a slippery quartz dyke heading up rightwards. Step right then up via a third bolt to gain some ledges which lead up and left a short distance to a double bolt belay ('On The Edge Of Equilibrium'). From here the best continuation is probably 'On The Edge' Of Equilibrium' (directly above). Alternative finishes include moving left about 8-10m along the slopey ledge to belay on 'No Ego' and then either following the sparsely protected 'Dry Weather Road' or following the easier and better protected 'No Ego' .

Start: Starts immediately left of the waterfall (or water trickle, depending on rainfall) at a short, black, slightly leftward leaning seam/corner-of-sorts (i.e the next line down and to the left of Spit and Polish). *this is at the base of 'Stiletto' Slab.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Geoff Gledhill, 2008

Trad 35m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Glass Gully
22 Persona Non Grata
Unknown 25m
22 Wichita
Unknown 60m
22 On Line
Unknown 40m
22 Bold Hussie
Unknown 25m
22 Crack Of Fat
Unknown 30m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim
22 Smear Tactics
Unknown 15m
22 Black Road
Unknown 45m
23 Banana Milkshakes Rule

A few metres left of Banana Blase is a line of 4 carrot bolts. could definitely get some additional small pro in. Access as per Banana Blase.

Sport 30m
22 Vertical Tai Chi 2nd Pitch

Climbs the crack and arete beside Home James, and shares HJ's last bolt. rap to DFH belay then #3Fr, 3FH, wires, 2FH, then HJ's carrot. note route length includes the 10m slab-walk back to the belay

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Will Monks, 2005

Unknown 45m
23 Dont spare the horses
Sport 15m, 6
23 Silver Shadow

Start as Home James then go straight up slab instead of traversing right.Confusing move on the Headwall. 3 carrots, plus 2 (?) from the start of Home James.

FA: Bob Coran, Luke Fitzridge & Ryan Butler, 2000

Sport 30m
23 Cyborg
Unknown 20m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Chaos Gully
23 Show And Tell
Unknown 30m
22 Lumberjack
Unknown 25m
23 Pretty Girls With Long Knives
Unknown 130m
22 Stick-jumping Hippy Logic
Unknown 95m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Mushroom Rock
22 Silicon Fish
Unknown 40m
22 Upwardly Mobile
Unknown 12m
23 Lethal Weapon
Unknown 35m
23 M1 Leathal Weapon II
Aid 50m, 2
23 Maverick
Unknown 30m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Devilled Cream Buttress
23 Pooky
Unknown 25m
22 Suffragette City
Unknown 60m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Isotope Wall
22 High Time
Unknown 92m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress
23 Pearly Gates
Unknown 110m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Disabled Lookout Area
22 M0 Madame La Guillotine

AID REDUCTION: Climbed with a rest only on the rope at grade 22M0 in 1979 by Rod Young (belayed by Mark Moorhead).

Aid 15m, 2
22 Mayday
Unknown 65m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Bent's Lookout
22 Willie Make It
Unknown 25m
22 M1 Hard Rain
1 22 M1 40m
2 19 30m
3 20 20m
4 21 30m

A terrific free climb with one single bit of aid doing a crack transfer to start the second pitch. Pitch lengths are approximate.

Abseil access: To the right of bents lookout (looking out) there is a gumtree between you and the next lookout, sling this and fix a 70m rope there then slab across under bents lookout (climbers right) to three shiny ringbolts on the other side of the slab. Clove hitch the rope to one (or more) of these bolts so your partner can come across on a fixed line then rap down the redirected single line from the bolts. You'll get to the bolted (carrots) hanging belay at the end of pitch one. Leave the fixed line and rap from these bolts with your climbing rope to the start of pitch one leaving the anchor in place. Once you finish the climb, you can use the fixed line to get back across the slab to the gumtree.

  1. ~40m (22, crux) Up the right facing, thin hands corner. This eases from vertical to slab as the corner arcs to the right and the crack thins. Hanging belay on two vintage carrot bolts.

  2. ~30m (19) Lower from the belay and swing over to transfer to the mega-flake to your right. Climb this on perfect hands jams while ignoring the sound that it makes every time you slide a cam in. Continue through a couple of seams to a small stance near a tree.

  3. ~20m (20) Up the crack to where it peters. Slab left past an antique bolt and hanger and into the next crack system. Belay approximately on the slab to the left before the crack goes vertical.

  4. ~30m (21) The vertical crack. A burly move or two and then head hard left back to your clove hitched rap rope and eventually your starting gum tree. There is probably some other ways to finish this pitch directly up to the lookout but the convenience of cleaning up the rap rope on the way outweighed the value of a few more meters of vertical climbing for us.

Trad 120m, 4
23 Hurricane
Unknown 38m
23 The Establishment Dyke Finish
Unknown 120m
22 The Establishment Super Direct

The best way to do The Establishment. The direct start, and follow the dyke feature all the way up.

  1. 30m (16): The Direct Start to the base of the corner.

  2. 25m (20): Up corner to HBB.

  3. 40m (22): Up corner, follow dyke to to passing bolt at crux steep section.

Mixed trad 95m, 3, 4
22 Established Anarchy
Trad 40m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Burston's Crevasse
23 Agrippa
Unknown 64m, 2
22 Monarch
Trad 75m, 3
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Beowulf Area
22 Iron Maiden
Unknown 25m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side The Oval Area
22 Banana Sundae

2 bolts, one near bottom then trad for most and another at the top, with some nice trad in between on an arcing orange yellow crack.

Trad 30m
22 Lift Girls Lament

Rap in from tree at top to belay on cams/wires at the small bush and horizontal break.

Up the crack varying from fingers to thin hands to hands. Some may be rattle depending on your hand size, and will alter where the crux is accordingly.

Doubles of small/medium cams or medium to large wires if that way inclined. Hexes or TriCams would be fun and make it a bit more challenging for your second - if your that way inclined ...

FA: Ian Anger & Mal Grey, 1981

Trad 10m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side The Waterfall South Side
23 True Dinks
Unknown 35m
23 Dizzy Limits
Unknown 40m
23 Commander Dildo

Start on a detached block about 5m left of Pussy On the Prowl. A flake came off at the start, probably adding a grade or two.

  1. 25m hard slab start, easing off after the steepening. Belay under the roof

  2. 25m Traverse right of the belay, steep move past a fixed hanger to overcome the roof. Up slab past another bolt.

FA: Illawara Rock Climber Association, 1982

Unknown 50m, 2, 5
23 Interstellar Boredom
Unknown 38m
22 Chip Buttie
Unknown 15m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side Pulpit Rock(Comet Ramp)
22 Needling Doubt
Unknown 60m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side North Wall
23 Defender Of The Faith

A great climb to do as an Aid warm up for Ozymandias Direct, A great free climb too I am sure!

FA: Chris Baxter & Geoff Gledhill, 1974

FFA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson, 1991

Trad 190m
23 M4 Tyrant Legitimate
  1. 46m (23)

  2. 21m (-)

  3. 24m (- M4)

  4. 21m (-)

  5. 43m (-)

Aid 150m, 2
23 M1 The Fifth Column
  1. 46m (23)

  2. 27m (- M1)

  3. 43m (-)

  4. 43m (-)

Aid 160m, 2
23 M5 Tyrant
  1. 46m (23)

  2. 27m (- M1)

  3. 57m (- M5)

  4. 24m (-)

  5. 21m (16) As for 'Ozymandias' p9.

  6. 24m (14) As for 'Ozymandias' p10.

Aid 190m, 2
22 M1 She - Ozymandias Eliminate

Start: Start as for She.

  1. 40m (21) As for She.

  2. 40m (21 M1)

  3. 35m (22)

  4. 30m (22) As for the 5th last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

  5. 35m (22) As for the 4th last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

  6. 15m (19) Traverse L as for the 3rd last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

  7. 21m (16) Chimneys as for the 2nd last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

  8. 24m (14) Chimneys as for the last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

FA: Joe Friend, Kevin Lindorff & as described

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Andrew Thomson, Glenn Tempest & penduled from the top of p2 of She, 1978

Aid 260m, 2
23 Bandidos

Start: Start 6m below Big Grassy.

  1. 30m (22)

  2. 35m (22) Finish up Ozy or 'Free Blast'.

FA: Stefan Eberhard & Julie Styles, 1995

Trad 150m, 2
22 M4 Rats In Paradise

Start: Start at the 6th belay of Ozy.

  1. 22m (12 M3)

  2. 25m (22)

  3. 12m (20)

  4. 12m (20) Then finish up 'Strange Ritual' or 'Lord Gumtree'.

FA: Stefan Eberhard & Julie Styles, 1995

Aid 71m, 2
23 Free Blast

Start: Start at the 7th belay of Ozy. This can be done as a rap-in-climb-out exercise, reached by a 55m abseil from the platform just W of Wilkinson's 'Lookout' (a tree anchor is well back and needs to be extended close to the edge if a 60m rope is to reach).

FA: Julie Styles & Stefan Eberhard, 1995

Mixed trad 35m, 4
22 M6 Lord Gumtree

Start: Start as for Ozy.

  1. 24m (- M2) As for Ozy.

  2. 27m (- M3)

  3. 18m (- M4)

  4. 30m (- M6)

  5. 40m (- M7)

  6. 40m (- M5)

  7. 40m (- M4)

  8. 30m (- M3)

  9. 40m (18) There is a bolted belay (not shown in topo) at the bush about 12m below the plaque, if you wish to split this pitch in two.

  10. 15m (- M3) The obvious offwidth corner above the plaque.

FFA: Steve Monks

FA: Peter McKeand & Chris Dewhirst 26-, 1971

FA: Rick White & Nic Taylor (FCA), 1975

FFA: Kevin Lindorff, Matt Taylor & Giles Bradbury (p8-9), 1977

Aid 320m, 2
23 Primary

Brilliant hand jamming! Start 60 m below Wilkinsons Lookout on grassy ledge. Curving hand crack ....

FA: Eddie Ozols & Greg Pritchard, 1982

FFA: Peter Croft & M Matheson, 1990

Unknown 40m
23 Primary Variant
Unknown 40m
23 M3 She Blast Integral

Start: Start as for She.

  1. 40m (21) As for She.

  2. 25m (21) As for She.

  3. 45m (23 M3)

  4. 35m (22) As for the 4th last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

  5. 35m (23) As for 'Free Blast'.

  6. 12m (20)

  7. 15m (-) Finish up 'Strange Ritual' or Ozy Direct.

FA: Stefan Eberhard & Julie Styles, 2000

Trad 210m, 7
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side Young Galaxians Pinnacle
22 Young Galaxians
Unknown 10m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side The False Modesty Pinnacle
22 Seclusion
Unknown 30m
23 Brontosaurus
Unknown 60m
23 Flight Of The Pterodactyl
Unknown 60m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side Queen Victoria Buttress
22 Death and Disfiguration
Unknown 45m
22 Magnum
Unknown 50m
23 Wall To Wall
Unknown 50m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side Queen Victoria Summit Rim
23 Blowbak
Unknown 25m
22 Turn Back Time
Unknown 25m
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side Queen Victoria Gully
23 Purple Heart
Unknown 45m
22 Powth Towh
Unknown 20m
22 The Last Remake
Unknown 25m
Mount Buffalo Reservoir Environs Wombat Rocks
22 Feral Wombats
Unknown 30m
22 Babyface
Unknown 25m
Mount Buffalo Reservoir Environs Devil's Couch
23 Loose Fit
Unknown 40m
Mount Buffalo Lake Catani Campsite Area
V3 Outta Nowhere

Looking at campsite 28, walk about 10-15m into the bush to the couple of boulders. The right taller boulder starting on the arete, with a 3 finger pocket high right and a side pulling crimp left, head straight up for a slaby and messy finish

FA: Josh Jordan, 12 Nov 2018

Boulder 2m
Mount Buffalo Lake Catani Viewpoint Area
22 Positive Thoughts
Unknown 20m
22 Social Lubricant
Unknown 50m
22 Ditto Sux
Unknown 70m
Mount Buffalo Lake Catani Chalwell Galleries
22 Glace

Up RHF corner crack and ramp to small ledge and follow bolts with homemade hangers(!) straight up slab (retrobolted in 2010).

Unknown 35m
22 Superfine

Climb the fist/offwidth crack on the flake left of Glace to a small ledge. BR off the ledge, and follow bolts with homemade hangers(!) up slab (retrobolted in 2010).

Unknown 35m
22 Plaything
Unknown 12m
23 Zorro
Unknown 15m
Mount Buffalo Lake Catani The Leviathan
V3 Leviathan Boulder Traverse

The obvious horizontal flake from left to right

Mount Buffalo Le Souef Plateau The Castle
23 Jocey And The Pussy Cats
Trad 18m
22 Susan's Slab
Unknown 18m
23 Public Enema
Unknown 15m
Mount Buffalo Le Souef Plateau The Keep
22 Pampered Menial
Unknown 30m
Mount Buffalo The Cathedral
23 Seven Veils

About 11 metres left of Sultan. Take a big cam to protect the moves up to the first bolt, then slab on up on the usual assortment of crimps and crystals...

FA: Michael Woodrow, 1997

Sport 20m, 4
23 Cowboy Logic
Unknown 30m
23 Contact Sport
Unknown 20m
22 Sunrunner

Reasonably well protected for a Buffalo slab. Rap in from the anchors directly down from the exit of the gulch. The corner of The Viking will be visable to your left.

FA: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger

Unknown 18m
23 The Dreaming
Unknown 90m
22 Woodpecker Wall
Unknown 90m
22 Twin Cracks

These cracks which don't quite reach the ground or the top are quite obvious from the walk up.

Mixed trad 35m, 1
23 The Crack Of Anguish
Unknown 20m
Mount Buffalo The Hump Area Summit Areas
22 Desperate
Unknown 15m
23 Seamstress
Unknown 25m
22 Cresta Crack
Unknown 15m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 178 routes.

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