Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mount Buffalo Eurobin Falls | |||||
23 | ★ Tiger Angel
| 45m | |||
23 | ★★ Muscle Beach
"Probably the best slick slab in Victoria". Originally had only 4 bolts, retrobolted by Mikl Dec 2010. Start: Start 5m R of TR at left facing flake. Up to rap station, eay climbing above this to join MoP or rap off. FA: Michael Law & Maureen Gallagher, 1983 | 45m, 9 | |||
22 | ★ Under Glass
| 45m | |||
22 | In For A Swim Direct
| 130m | |||
Mount Buffalo Mackeys Lookout | |||||
22 | Weekend Hustlers
Up the line via some small trad gear and two bolts. When the corner seam peters out (at the second bolt?), there is a slippery quartz dyke heading up rightwards. Step right then up via a third bolt to gain some ledges which lead up and left a short distance to a double bolt belay ('On The Edge Of Equilibrium'). From here the best continuation is probably 'On The Edge' Of Equilibrium' (directly above). Alternative finishes include moving left about 8-10m along the slopey ledge to belay on 'No Ego' and then either following the sparsely protected 'Dry Weather Road' or following the easier and better protected 'No Ego' . Start: Starts immediately left of the waterfall (or water trickle, depending on rainfall) at a short, black, slightly leftward leaning seam/corner-of-sorts (i.e the next line down and to the left of Spit and Polish). *this is at the base of 'Stiletto' Slab. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Geoff Gledhill, 2008 | 35m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Glass Gully | |||||
22 | Persona Non Grata
| 25m | |||
22 | Wichita
| 60m | |||
22 | On Line
| 40m | |||
22 | ★ Bold Hussie
| 25m | |||
22 | Crack Of Fat
| 30m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | |||||
23 | Cyborg
| 20m | |||
23 | ★ Silver Shadow
Start as Home James then go straight up slab instead of traversing right.Confusing move on the Headwall. 3 carrots, plus 2 (?) from the start of Home James. FA: Bob Cowan, 2000 | 30m | |||
23 | ★★ And don't spare the horses
Starts from near the right side of the sizeable flat ledge directly below the base of Home James. Up the slab which sweeps up tending rightward, past 3BRs to a steepening (large-medium cam possible but not essential). Up and over this, past another BR, and up leftward to the belay at the base of Home James. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Simon Murray, 2005 | 15m, 6 | |||
22 | ★★ Vertical Tai Chi 2nd Pitch
Climbs the crack and arete beside Home James, and shares HJ's last bolt. Rap to DFH belay then follow the FHs with optional gear to share the last bolt with ‘Home James’. Note route length includes the 10m slab-walk back to the belay FA: Kevin Lindorff & Will Monks, 2005 | 45m, 6 | |||
23 | ★ Banana Milkshakes Rule
A few metres left of Banana Blase is a line of 4 carrot bolts. could definitely get some additional small pro in. Access as per Banana Blase. | 30m | |||
22 | ★★ Black Road
The prominent R-leaning diagonal crack down from Ring-a-Ding Ding FA: Ian Lewis, 1974 FFA: Henry Barber, 1975 | 45m | |||
21 - 23 | Unknown
2m Left of Thin Wall Special Pineapple delight is an un-named line of bolts in a shallow crack. Access as per TWSPD. | 18m, 4 | |||
22 | ★ Smear Tactics
The arete R of TWSPD. The unprotected start means this is more often top-roped than led. Head right to arete then up dyke and onto left wall. Up past BR to the top. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Simon Parsons, 1980 | 15m, 1 | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Chaos Gully | |||||
23 | Show And Tell
The top half of this route was destroyed by the Sep 2021 Earthquake, See route 'shake and quake" for the new re-established route. | 30m | |||
22 | ★ Lumberjack
| 25m | |||
23 | ★★★ Pretty Girls With Long Knives
| 130m | |||
22 | Stick-jumping Hippy Logic
| 95m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Mushroom Rock | |||||
22 | Silicon Fish
| 40m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Mushroom Rock Bower Bird Buttress | |||||
22 | ★ The lost bower
Start up BB, at ledge climb crack through roof-let with some difficulties, then continue wrestling your way to finally join BB at the belay. FA: jack jane & Luke Molineux, 2 Sep 2023 | 25m | |||
22 | Upwardly Mobile
| 12m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Mushroom Rock | |||||
23 | ★★ Lethal Weapon
Continue downhill from Mushroom Rock for perhaps another 70m to the end of a rocky promontory (not far from where the rough climbers' track - used to get down to Isotope Wall, Angel's buttress or the North Wall of the gorge - swings hard left, looking out, and into and through a narrow rock cleft). Abseil 35m over the route, angling slightly leftward/east to belay in the steep gully off the east side of the buttress. Engaging climbing up past 2 carrot bolts and around right onto the front of the buttress and a fixed hanger. Then slab up tending rightward past four more carrot bolts, a fixed hanger, then the arete past a final carrot bolt to belay. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Wayne Webb, 1995 | 35m, 8 | |||
23 M1 | ★ Leathal Weapon II
| 50m, 2 | |||
23 | Maverick
| 30m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Devilled Cream Buttress | |||||
23 | Pooky
| 25m | |||
22 | Suffragette City
| 60m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Isotope Wall | |||||
22 | ★★ High Time
| 92m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Angels' Buttress | |||||
23 | ★★ Pearly Gates
| 110m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side The Path of Genghis Buttress | |||||
23 | The Path of Genghis
| 310m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Disabled Lookout Area | |||||
22 M0 | Madame La Guillotine
AID REDUCTION: Climbed with a rest only on the rope at grade 22M0 in 1979 by Rod Young (belayed by Mark Moorhead). | 15m, 2 | |||
22 | Mayday
| 65m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Bent's Lookout | |||||
22 | Willie Make It
| 25m | |||
22 M1 | ★★★ Hard Rain
1
22 M1
40m
2
19
30m
3
20
20m
4
21
30m
A terrific free climb with one single bit of aid doing a crack transfer to start the second pitch. Pitch lengths are approximate. Havin a few #1 camalots makes the route much more pleasant (HB suggests taking 6!). Abseil access: To the right of bents lookout (looking out) there is a gumtree between you and the next lookout, sling this and fix a 70m rope there then slab across under bents lookout (climbers right) to three shiny ringbolts on the other side of the slab. Clove hitch the rope to one (or more) of these bolts so your partner can come across on a fixed line then rap down the redirected single line from the bolts. You'll get to the bolted (carrots) hanging belay at the end of pitch one. Leave the fixed line and rap from these bolts with your climbing rope to the start of pitch one leaving the anchor in place. Once you finish the climb, you can use the fixed line to get back across the slab to the gumtree.
FA: Nic Taylor & Steve Pawley (M3), 1976 FFA: Rick McGregor & Peter Morris, 1976 | 120m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★ Hurricane
| 38m | |||
23 | ★★ The Establishment Dyke Finish
| 120m | |||
22 | ★★ The Establishment Super Direct
The best way to do The Establishment. The direct start, and follow the dyke feature all the way up.
| 95m, 3, 4 | |||
22 | ★★ Established Anarchy
| 40m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Burston's Crevasse | |||||
22 | ★★★ Monarch
A stunning line, and quite smooth jamming (for Mt Buffalo). A couple of #3 Camalots, a #4 and even a #5, or equivalent sized cams, would be useful. The first pitch is 'the business' but the much easier (technically) second pitch is tight, awkward and virtually devoid of protection.
FA: Mike Stone, Ian Ross (alts), April '72 (18 M3) & Roland Pauligk April '75 | 75m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Agrippa
| 64m, 2 | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Beowulf Area | |||||
22 | ★ Iron Maiden
Starts down right from Time Passage and takes the arete that is just right of that climb. Easiest approach is to scramble down to the top of the arete and abseil from the double bolt anchor. Climb up (BR), right to arete (BR), then up this (BR). FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1981 | 25m, 3 | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side The Oval Area | |||||
22 | ★★ Comeback Trail Variant Finish
P1) Climb as for Comeback Trail, then instead of traversing under the roof, head out left in the obvious finger crack to the ledge. Build belay in the vertical crack. P2) up the steep mossy crack on the big flakes, then pull up into the Groove and top out. Harder than it looks, but cleaning some moss out might reveal some good holds in the crack. FA unknown, but I highly doubt nobody has ever done it before. | 2 | |||
22 | ★ Banana Sundae
2 bolts, one near bottom then trad for most and another at the top, with some nice trad in between on an arcing orange yellow crack. | 30m | |||
22 | ★★ Lift Girls Lament
10m left of the 'Gorge Heritage Walk' sign near the oval is a faint path; this takes you to a large boulder perched on the edge of the cliff. Rap in from tree at top to semi hanging belay on cams/wires at the small bush and horizontal break. Up the crack which gradually increases in size from small fingers to #1 camalot; the location of the crux will depend on your hand size. Doubles of small/medium cams. FA: Ian Anger & Mal Grey, 1981 | 10m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side The Waterfall South Side | |||||
23 | True Dinks
| 35m | |||
23 | Dizzy Limits
| 40m | |||
23 | Commander Dildo
Start on a detached block about 5m left of Pussy On the Prowl. A flake came off at the start, probably adding a grade or two.
FA: Illawara Rock Climber Association, 1982 | 50m, 2, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Interstellar Boredom
| 38m | |||
22 | Chip Buttie
| 15m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side Pulpit Rock (Comet Ramp) | |||||
22 | ★ Needling Doubt
| 60m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side North Wall | |||||
23 | ★★★ Defender Of The Faith
A great climb to do as an Aid warm up for Ozymandias Direct, A great free climb too I am sure! https://vimeo.com/57035617 FA: Chris Baxter & Geoff Gledhill, 1974 FFA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson, 1991 | 190m | |||
23 M4 | Tyrant Legitimate
| 150m, 2 | |||
23 M1 | The Fifth Column
| 160m, 2 | |||
23 M5 | Tyrant
| 190m, 2 | |||
22 M1 | ★ She - Ozymandias Eliminate
Start: Start as for She.
FA: Joe Friend, Kevin Lindorff & as described FA: Kevin Lindorff, Andrew Thomson, Glenn Tempest & penduled from the top of p2 of She, 1978 | 260m, 2 | |||
23 | Bandidos
Start: Start 6m below Big Grassy.
FA: Stefan Eberhard & Julie Styles, 1995 | 150m, 2 | |||
22 M4 | Rats In Paradise
Start: Start at the 6th belay of Ozy.
FA: Stefan Eberhard & Julie Styles, 1995 | 71m, 2 | |||
23 | Free Blast
Start: Start at the 7th belay of Ozy. This can be done as a rap-in-climb-out exercise, reached by a 55m abseil from the platform just W of Wilkinson's 'Lookout' (a tree anchor is well back and needs to be extended close to the edge if a 60m rope is to reach). FA: Julie Styles & Stefan Eberhard, 1995 | 35m, 4 | |||
22 M6 | ★★ Lord Gumtree
Start as for Ozy.
FFA: Steve Monks FA: Peter McKeand & Chris Dewhirst 26-, 1971 FA: Rick White & Nic Taylor (FCA), 1975 FFA: Kevin Lindorff, Matt Taylor & Giles Bradbury (p8-9), 1977 | 320m, 2 | |||
23 | ★ Primary
Brilliant hand jamming! Start 60 m below Wilkinsons Lookout on grassy ledge. Curving hand crack .... FA: Eddie Ozols & Greg Pritchard, 1982 FFA: Peter Croft & M Matheson, 1990 | 40m | |||
23 | ★ Primary Variant
| 40m | |||
23 M3 | She Blast Integral
Start: Start as for She.
FA: Stefan Eberhard & Julie Styles, 2000 | 210m, 7 | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side Young Galaxians Pinnacle | |||||
22 | ★★ Young Galaxians
| 10m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side The False Modesty Pinnacle | |||||
22 | Seclusion
| 30m | |||
23 | ★ Brontosaurus
| 60m | |||
23 | Flight Of The Pterodactyl
| 60m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side Queen Victoria Buttress | |||||
22 | Death and Disfiguration
| 45m | |||
22 | ★ Magnum
Start as for Heaven on a Stick.
FA: Bob Cowan, Matt Roper & Greg Garnham, 1995 | 50m, 2, 2 | |||
23 | ★★ Wall To Wall
Start from a small ledge (single bolt plus wire belay) below the small corner just up L from the original (corner) start of Gaia. Approach via a 50m abseil from gums close to the edge at the top of the buttress. Alternatively, abseil as per the access to Gaia.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & David Jurke, 1991 | 50m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side Queen Victoria Summit Rim | |||||
23 | Blowbak
| 25m | |||
22 | Turn Back Time
| 25m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side Queen Victoria Gully | |||||
23 | Purple Heart
| 45m | |||
22 | Powth Towh
| 20m | |||
22 | The Last Remake
| 25m | |||
Mount Buffalo Reservoir Environs Wombat Rocks | |||||
22 | Feral Wombats
| 30m | |||
22 | ★ Babyface
| 25m | |||
Mount Buffalo Reservoir Environs Mt Dunn Little Mt Dunn | |||||
22 | ★ The Done Thing
Start up the hand crack (as for 'Not the Done Thing'), then follow the undercut crack leftwards. FFA: jack jane, 2 Jan 2022 | 15m | |||
Mount Buffalo Reservoir Environs Devil's Couch | |||||
23 | ★ Loose Fit
| 40m | |||
Mount Buffalo Lake Catani Campsite Area | |||||
V3 | ★★ Outta Nowhere
Looking at campsite 28, walk about 10-15m into the bush to the couple of boulders. The right taller boulder starting on the arete, with a 3 finger pocket high right and a side pulling crimp left, head straight up for a slaby and messy finish FA: Josh Jordan, 12 Nov 2018 | 2m | |||
Mount Buffalo Lake Catani Viewpoint Area | |||||
22 | ★ Positive Thoughts
The flake-crack on the outcrop below Paradox.
FA: Jeremy Boreham & Mike Wust, 1990 | 20m, 2 | |||
22 | Social Lubricant
| 50m | |||
22 | Ditto Sux
| 70m | |||
Mount Buffalo Lake Catani Chalwell Galleries | |||||
23 | Sticky Fingers
FA: 1999 | 20m, 3 | |||
22 | CherryPicker
link up. Startup Glace, then traverse R past 3 bolts to UtBHH, finish up this. FA: 1999 | 35m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★ Glace
Up RHF corner crack and ramp to small ledge and follow bolts with homemade hangers(!) straight up slab (retrobolted in 2010). | 35m | |||
22 | ★★ Superfine
Climb the fist/offwidth crack on the flake left of Glace to a small ledge. BR off the ledge, and follow bolts with homemade hangers(!) up slab (retrobolted in 2010). | 35m | |||
22 | Plaything
| 12m | |||
23 | Zorro
| 15m | |||
Mount Buffalo Lake Catani The Leviathan | |||||
V3 | ★★ Leviathan Boulder Traverse
The obvious horizontal flake from left to right | ||||
Mount Buffalo Le Souef Plateau The Castle | |||||
23 | ★★ Jocey And The Pussy Cats
| 18m | |||
22 | ★ Susan's Slab
| 18m | |||
23 | Public Enema
| 15m | |||
Mount Buffalo Le Souef Plateau The Keep | |||||
22 | ★★ Pampered Menial
| 30m | |||
Mount Buffalo The Cathedral | |||||
23 | ★ Seven Veils
About 11 metres left of Sultan. Take a big cam to protect the moves up to the first bolt, then slab on up on the usual assortment of crimps and crystals... FA: Michael Woodrow, 1997 | 20m, 4 | |||
22 | The Quick and the Dead
3m right of Seven Veils (and 8m left of Sultan). Up. FA: Kevin Lindorff & John Schwerdfeger, 2003 | 20m, 3 | |||
23 | Cowboy Logic
Start up Maharajah LHV start, reach left as for Ravi Variant. L past BR to the arete, then up the right side of the flake. Slab past 2BRs to the belay on Maharajah. Finish as for Castles in the Sand to summit chains. Abseil 25moff the back. FA: Tim Day & Wade Stevens, 1999 | 30m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Contact Sport
Climbs the left arete of Compulsion. Slick/polished so best avoided when it is in full sun. Start immediately left of the arete at the left-leaning flake/seam. Up this, then past a fixed hanger and 3 more bolts. FA: Kevin Lindorff, Alan Hope & Martin Hallett, 1994 | 20m, 4 |