Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Arapiles Atridae The Flight Deck | |||||
30 | ★ Afterburner
Climb all of 'Jet Lag' (via the original direct start) then launch onwards into a final boulder problem above the chains. Start: Start as for JL. FA: Ingvar Lidman | 25m, 7 | |||
Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side | |||||
30 | ★★ Mr Natural
Looks like 36! Originally led on preplaced gear, repeated placing the gear by Gareth Llewellin - a pretty bold lead. Start a short way uphill from the back of the D Minor pinnacle, and just downhill from the boulder choke. Glassy bulging seam. Rack: Mostly #1 RPs. FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1995 | 12m | |||
Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Swing Wing Boulder | |||||
V9 | ★★★ V9 problem
| 3m | |||
Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall | |||||
V8 | ★★ Trackside traverse
Sit start just left of arete then traverse R) across face via some shouldery moves. | ||||
V8 | ★★ Traverse and Fly
Trackside Traverse to finish up ‘10’s Dyno (right arete out). | 4m | |||
Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder | |||||
30 | Bliss
Two carrot bolts protect the face. Would be an amazing boulder/solo, but has not been done yet. | ||||
Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Nickotine
Very Steep Arete at far L | 5m | |||
V8 | ★★ 10
Sit start. Opposing side-pulls through middle of the roof | ||||
Arapiles Bluffs Flinders Lane Area | |||||
30 | ★ Stop-Motion
Direct start to Moving Pictures past a rusty bolt or two. FA: Dave Jones | 20m | |||
Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||
30 | The Mule
Start up Very Anxious then before joining Anxiety Neurosis move L under the roof and blast through the roof and up the overhanging wall above staying between Kama Sutra and AN. Finish at AN p1 loweroffs or continue up any pitch above to the summit. FA early noughties IIRC ... clarification welcome. FA: Dave Jones | 25m, 4 | |||
30 | ★★ Leaps and Bounds
| 35m | |||
30 | ★ Leaps
Bolted by Kimbo decades ago, this long-standing problem succumbed to the short strong bloke with dreads. Start as for Anxiety Neurosis and boulder direct through the bulge to the start of Bounds and finish up it or Anticipation. FA: Davey Jones, 1998 | 10m, 3 | |||
Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | |||||
30 | ★★ Expired
Link Required into Requited. FA: Nathan Hoette | 30m, 5 | |||
Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Crankshaft Boulder | |||||
V9 | ★★ Crankshaft Overdive
All the business on Crankshaft (traverse) then a couple of tough moves to gain the start holds of the 3 move V8 corner. | 5m | |||
V8 | ★★ Crankpression
The line a few people have claimed as Vague Corner, though almost completely independent and also very good. Start low on the prow right of Crankshaft crack and compress straight up using slopers either side. No use of the crack itself. | ||||
V8 | ★★ Vague Corner
Just right of 'Crankshaft' crack without using that line at any stage. Same first couple of moves as Crankpression to obvious RH sloper but then stay in the line of the corner to finish. Devious and sharp. | ||||
Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders The Chicken Boulder | |||||
V9 | ★★ Sax Onion
| ||||
Arapiles Castle Crag | |||||
30 | ★★ Nati Dread
Power through the roof to the lip. The section after the roof was originally done by deviating R into the Low Down, then doing it's crux before continuing straight up. Has since been straightened out. Start: R of Procol is a line of bolts through the ceiling. FA: Andy Pollit, 1990 | 30m, 5 | |||
Arapiles Grotto Wall Area The Bat Cave | |||||
30 | ★★ Living With a Hernia
Awesome power route taking the main line through the cave. "The best power route in Australia" (Nathan Hoette). FA: Douglas Hockly, 2003 | 10m, 3 | |||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | |||||
30 | ★★★ Punky Brewster
The master of combinations and permutations digs up another classic. This one links the "easy" bits of the two original routes. Start as for Punks in the Gym, finish as for Pretty in Punk. FA: Nathan Hoette | 25m | |||
30 | ★★★ Ethiopia
The prime line hereabouts. All the hard bit of India then step L and up the middle of the steep wall through the top roof to lower offs. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 30m, 3 | |||
30 | Wisdom of Body
Not his finest addition. Brutally hard undercling moves and very, very rarely repeated. Start as for Nose Job then bust left. FA: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1985 | 15m | |||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Pharos Gully Bouldering Ministry of fig pluckers | |||||
V9 | High traverse
| ||||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Boulders Around the World Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★ The Final Chapter
Takes low line through roof that entrenched avoids via pinches. | ||||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Boulders Finalgon Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Finalgon Centre Direct
Great sit start half way across Finalgon and direct through underclings and small crimp to top out in same line. | ||||
Arapiles Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | |||||
30 | ★ Chuckles Bolty
The "crazy linkup" of Lord of the Rings into Slinkin' Leopard. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004 | ||||
Arapiles Far North Far North Bouldering Caving Boulder | |||||
V9 | Sidepulls
| ||||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Closed Campground Boulders | |||||
V8 | Butt Eater
Link up of 'Butt Gravity' into Race Eater Variant. FA: Tilly Parkins?, 2000 | ||||
V9 | ★★★ Race Eater
As for 'Happy Camper' but keep traversing leftwards to join 'Butt Gravity' and finish up that problem. Crux is the big move to the 4-finger pocket (on 'Butt Gravity'). FA: Klem Loskot (flashed), 2000 | ||||
V9 | ★★ Happy Camper Traverse
Climb NSAM to the traverseline, then head left along the line of small crimps. Completely finger size dependant. Watch your back. 2016 guidebook grading | ||||
V8 | ★★★ Worm Saloon
This and the next 4 problems are located on the raised ledge of the 'Butthole Surfer' Cave, within view of 'Gay Hip Flexor' down and to the left. FA: Will Detmold, 2000 | ||||
V9 | ★★★ Butthole Surfer
Low roof starting with a sit-start on a terrace and heading directly out to the lip and up overhanging face. FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
V8 | ★★ Gourmet Cat
A gourmet for sure, starts on an obvious rail, finishes on top. two small crimps lead up the center of the face, and a big move to the jug/lip. simple and sweet FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | 3m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Da-Lai-Lahmung
Beta dependant. Standing start. Up to poor pocket, then big move up to large pocket. Re-arrange the hands, then out right to the intermediate edge, then big span (or trickery) out to the jug on the arete. Match this and motor up on more jugs to top-out. FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999 | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Titanic Boulder | |||||
V9 | S.O.S.
Stand starts with a left hand slot and a right hand shallow pocket, move up and left on some pockets then top out onto the slab above. | ||||
V8 | ★ Overboard
Starts as 'S.O.S.' but climbs straight up. | ||||
V9 | ★★ Collision Course
Start on two underclings (don't stack pads) then move up to the rail and finish as for 'Drowning Dicaprio'. | 4m | |||
V8 | Problem#1
| ||||
V8 | Problem#7
| ||||
Grampians North Grampians Flat Rock West Flank | |||||
V9 | ★★ Leave it all behind
Start matched on the giant jug, move up to the pocket and jump! FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 2014 | 4m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Farside | |||||
V9 | ★★★ Raging Bull
Popular, despite the fact that it is the only boulder of the crag and requires a considerable hike in to get to. FA: Dave Pearson | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Ground Control Caves Middle Cave | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Rota-Loo
Middle Cave. Traverse from the LH corner (sit-start using underclings). Hard move into the traverse, across and into 'Lonely Heart Club' via a classic drop-down move, finishing as for that problem. | ||||
V8 | ★★ Ground Control to Major Tom
Middle Cave FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Ground Control Caves Lower Cave | |||||
V9 | Maria Huifuia
Lower Cave. FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999 | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Glass Half MT Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★ Bad Moon Rising
Starts around 4m left of GHMT. Was climbed as a huge dyno. Has also been climbed via some pretty poor intermediate slopers, which most consider to be v6. | 4m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Wiggly Boulder | |||||
V8 | Shattered Arete
Sit Start under the arete and punch straight up the nose on hard moves. | ||||
V8 | Regicide
| ||||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Amazing Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Brama Sutra
Takes the seam from a sit-start right of 'Sick Nutter' and just left of 'The V2 Sit' problem. FA: Julian Saunders | 4m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Love Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ To Hate To Love
The burly twin of "Ministry of Love". Sit start on the off angle slopey rail and head left to the slot and jug.Traverse the overhang right on pockets to a sloper and edges and a tricky top out. | 6m | |||
V9 | ★★ To Love To Hate
Start as for "Ministry of Love" and move to the lip. Traverse left on slopers to finish up "To Love To Hate". | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Jungle Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Conga Fury
The left arete starting with a RH pinch and low LH on the arete. Top out. Compression problem. | 3m | |||
V9 | ★★★ Inca Steppa
| ||||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders 100 Pint Wall | |||||
V9 | ★★ 100 Pint Club
FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Paul's Boulder | |||||
V9 | ★★ Far Left El Westwood
| ||||
V8 | ★★★ Left El Westwood
FA: Paul Westwood, 2000 | ||||
V8 | ★ Direct El Westwood
| ||||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Orphan Boulders | |||||
V9 | ★★ The Pearl
Start at The Oyster, make moves left on crimps on the face and top out on the far left of the boulder on pockets and mossy slopers. FA: Michael Tonon, 2017 | ||||
V8 | ★★★ The Oyster
| 4m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
30 | ★★★ Naja
After the long years of Steve and others being spat off before Dave cleaned it up, it's apt that this genus includes the Spitting Cobra! The strongest line on all Taipan, this is the left-facing arete bounding the right side of the massive scooped out area right of Serpentine. It is more closely bolted than most other Taipan routes, although they're getting a bit the worse for wear. The whole thing can be worked from the ground using a 70m rope (but only just!). Start as for Serpentine.
FA: Equipped Steve Monksish? & sent by Dave Jones, 1990 | 45m, 2, 8 | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - South | |||||
30 | ★★★ Sheek Naja Ket
Established after a tip-off from Jake the snake Bresnehan. "Named in honour of a great man, and possibly the best climb on the wall". Given 31 originally but has quickly been knocked down a grade. Start as for Mr J. Up most of Mr J p1 then, instead of going diagonally left past the last bolt to the cave, continue directly up. The crimpy orange wall has 4 more bolts and takes you about 4m R of Mr J p2, right to the top. A 70m rope can lower off the last bolt to the ledge - just! It's only a sport route if, like most grade 30 climbers, you skip the trad gear on Mr J. FA: Ben Cossey & Al Pryce, 2008 | 38m, 11 | |||
30 | ★★ Tourniquet
FA: Dave Jones (p1p2 98), 1997 | 40m, 2, 8 | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Spurt Wall | |||||
30 | Cripple Nipple
Another absorbing steep wall on excellent rock. Julian Saunders attempted this route direct with a huge sideways dyno (thus removing his nipples!). Eventually Nathan solved the climb by bailing around this dyno crux by a big traverse right. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002 | 17m, 8 | |||
30/31 | ★★★ Lifestyling
Sustained slopy masterpiece that some reckon is the best thing on Spurt. It climbs a blazingly direct line of pockets and crimps. Typical Julian bullshit runouts to sketchy clips with the technical crux several metres above a bolt. 6 bolts. FA: Julian Saunders, 2000 | 20m, 6 | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Closed Spurt Wall (Bouldering) | |||||
V9 | ★ Sam Sneak
| ||||
V9 | ★ Pikachu
| ||||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Afterglow Boulders | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Crisco Love Party
Start on good holds, climb right into hueco and continue up to round pocket. Top out over lip | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Between the Sheeps | |||||
V8 | Bonsai
Start left of Kamikaze and head left. | ||||
V9 | ★★★ Poison Salad
Rat Salad into Rat Poison. Mega! FA: Callum Mather | ||||
V8 | ★★ Rat Salad
Sit start on edges, bust out the roof via shouldery moves and finish up right. Either downclimb or shuffle along the shelf to top out. FA: Callum Mather | 4m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Wildsides | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Sweet Sensation
As for 'The Beginnings...' then break right and up via extreme undercling move to the slopey break. FA: Klem Loskot, 2000 | ||||
V8 | Click
Low sit-start and up via a big move leftwards. Possibly lost some holds since the first ascent. Start: 3rd climbing cave along from the 'Sweet Sensation' area. FA: Klem Loskot, 2000 | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Closed The Snake Pit | |||||
V9 | ★★ High Flyer
Takes the obvious flakeline through the big roof (see pic below), uphill from 'Helmut'. Yet another dynamic problem. FA: Bryn Hoskins, 2006 | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Citadel | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Ammagamma Standing Start
The original problem from a standing start - to mantle the finish. FA: Dave Jones, 2000 | ||||
V9 | ★★ Strammamax
Classic low traverse starting from the large LH flat jug under the roof - then heading rightwards via a big hueco and an even bigger sloper (crux) - finishing up the Endamax'. Desperate for those of short stature... FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999 | ||||
V9 | ★★ Puns and Noodles
Sit-start on the big hueco pocket - then head directly out through the big roof and up the thin face - to finish on the obvious jug line. Thin. FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2000 | ||||
V9 | ★★★ Lost For Life Stand Start
Stand start on the obvious wide crimp rail. Finish as for LFL. | 4m | |||
V8 | ★★ Penguin Biceps
| ||||
V9 | ★★ Pingu's Last Stand
| ||||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Amnesty Gun Buttress Boulder | |||||
V9 | ★ Dave Jones Traverse
FFA: Dave Jones presumably | ||||
V9 | Vendetta
| ||||
V8 | ★★ Bismarck
| ||||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Amnesty Upper Gun Buttress | |||||
V8 | ★ Doctors Orders
Only climbs on RHS of big seam. FA: Michael Tonon, 3 Aug 2018 | 4m | |||
V8 | ★★ Prescribed Happiness
Stand start in the break, follow seam up and left to high top out. FA: Michael Tonon, 3 Aug 2018 | 6m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Thoughts Of A Dying Athiest
FA: Pat Reynolds | 6m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Zoolander Area | |||||
V8 | Hansel
| ||||
V8 | Magnum
Horrible landing. | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Tim Tam Boulder | |||||
V8 | Tim Tam Mantle
Hard sit start on edges to difficult mantle just after start of TTT | 2m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Happy Daze | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Font Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Green Destiny
Sit start on the right side of the hueco and make a big move up to slopey holds and continue up hard moves on bad holds over the bulge left of White Destiny. | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Gobsmacker Corner | |||||
V8 | ★★ Testostrogen
| 3m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Gasoline Prow | |||||
V8 | ★★ Gasoline
Start as for Ethanol and up to flakes in the roof. Follow the line of holds right, moving through the roof to the other side and mantle over the nose of the boulder. | 4m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Lillyput Wall | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Exposed
Thought to be much harder than V5. FA: Toby Benham, 2000 | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Trust Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Micro Machine
| 2m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Zinc Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Zinc
Stand start from jug then climb up and top out. | 5m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Snowflake Boulder | |||||
V8 | Spanner
| 3m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Andersens Consulting Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★ Shanghai
Sit start matched on right-facing edges. Move to a gaston then up right to gain a jug and top out. | 3m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main The Wailing Wall | |||||
V8 | ★ The Wailing Wall
Located on the face other side of the flake. | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Giddy Up Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Giddy Up
6m vertical arete up the hill from Sydney Highrise | 6m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main The Shield | |||||
V8 | ★ Police Brutality
| ||||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Lower Clicke Bad Cliche Boulder | |||||
V9 | Hanabi
Direct eliminate version to As the Crow Flies (V6). Dyno from the start holds straight to the same hold you're jumping to on As the Crow Flies. | 3m |