Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
27 | |||||
Melbourne and Surrounds Camels Hump Omega Block Area Omega Block | |||||
27 | ★★ The Left Hand of Satan
Rebolted in 2012. Excellent thin climbing previously graded 29, then 27 after a likely FA by Reuben. Much harder than SV Direct but still 27. Start immediately below high first bolt. Has also been climbed via SVs start at the same grade. FA: Reuben Bennett-Daly, 2003 | 15m, 4 | |||
Melbourne and Surrounds Werribee Gorge Falcons Lookout Veni Vidi Vici Area | |||||
27 | ★ Thomas the Crank Engine
Starts 2m L of 'Fuel the Fire'. Sharp at least 26, probably 27. 4 RBs - Rebolted June 2023 - Safer Cliffs Victoria FA: Robert Oliver & Nathan Sherlock, 1994 | 15m, 4 | |||
Melbourne and Surrounds Werribee Gorge Falcons Lookout Main Boardwalk | |||||
27 | ★★ Roman Warfare
Roman Warfare 27 “The first ascent required an army of support to fight his way up this feisty number” Don your armour, put some plumes in your helmet and quest up the arete, conserve the small shrub for cover, regroup your troops at the ledge where the fun begins. Stalk your way up the balancy face to ambush your enemy. Beware of booby trap loose rock in the roof let. Check for previous soldiers shin skin, leg hair and blood at the lip, mount your horse and gallop up the arete to victory. R side of the Spintrian arete to the ledge then the L wall of the Golgotha corner over the roof and up the R side of the arete to DBB loweroff Set: Matt Brooks, 14 Aug 2023 FA: Nick Murphy, 3 Sep 2023 | 30m, 10 | |||
Melbourne and Surrounds Inner Melbourne Richmond Bridge | |||||
27 | City side 7 and 2 traverse
Traverse the line of blocks using blocks 7 and under minus the bottom 2 rows. #traverse | 16m | |||
27 | ★★★ City side 6 and 1 traverse
Traverse the wall on the city side of the road using blocks 6 and under minus the bottom row. #traverse | 16m | |||
27 | ★ City side 5 and under traverse
Traverse the wall on the City side of the road only using the blocks 5 and under. #traverse | 16m | |||
27 | River side 7 and 2 traverse
Traverse the line of blocks using blocks 7 and under minus the bottom 2 rows. #traverse | 16m | |||
North East Mount Buffalo The Gorge - North Side North Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ Forgotten Playground
An outstanding, sustained and varied free climb that challenges the full gamut of granite styles. This is a distinctly more approachable prospect than the other free routes on this end of the wall consisting of generally easier cruxes, fewer run-outs and less small gear. The route follows a logical line of features incorporating sections of the aid routes Knocking on Heavens Door, She, Clouded Queen, Ozymandias and Strange Ritual. Most pitches include a mix of natural gear and bolts. Take a standard rack up to a 3 Camalot including some micro cams, small and medium wires.
FFA: lee cossey & Andrea Hah, 15 Jan 2017 | 220m, 5 | |||
North East Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side The Oval Area | |||||
27 | ★★★ Bell Boys Bereavement
Stunning! Below LGL. Rap in, climb out via the arête, slab and think crack past FHs (20m) Finish up LGL. FFA: Stuart Wyithe & Malcolm Matheson, 2000 | 30m, 8 | |||
North East Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Beowulf Area | |||||
27 | ★★★ Satanic Traverses
FA: Malcom Matheson | ||||
27 | Spawn of Satan
| ||||
27 | Exhibit A
FFA: Malcolm Matheson | 2 | |||
North East Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Bent's Lookout | |||||
27 | ★★ Flair
| 50m | |||
North East Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Isotope Wall | |||||
27 | ★ Oppenheimer's Monster
A rough/crystalline, flaring, diagonal crack... hmmm! Starts at the double rap ring at the end of p1 of Manhattan Project.
FA: Malcolm Matheson & Ian Anger, 1994 | 45m | |||
North East Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | |||||
27 | ★ Sweet Nothings
The steep blunt arete to the R of Body Heat. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 2005 | 20m, 5 | |||
Granite Highlands Warragul Rocks (Tallarook) | |||||
27 | Agony And Ecstacy
12m left of Champagne And Novocaine. Painfully thin and deceptively difficult climbing past 3 FH's. FA: Steve Chapman, 2001 | 14m, 3 | |||
North West Mt Hope Suicide Rock | |||||
27 | ★★ Touch Me I'm Sick
The obvious shallow corner. Starts from the ramp which is accessed from the right hand end of the cliff. FA: Matt Brooks | 45m | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Chimney Pot Gap Cakewalk Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ In Too Deep
Looks can be deceiving. At R end of cliff, (5 metres L of Catch It), up left facing groove/corner to lower off. 3rd Ring is hard to clip. FFA: Goshen Watts, 29 Mar 2019 | 10m, 3 | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Chimney Pot Gap Tangerine Slide Lower Tier | |||||
27 | Boys That Grow Plump In The Night
Powerful climbing with a truly evil start, up thin flake to overlap. Looks good, bolts may need replacing. The second pitch could be an anti-climax though. Start: Start on wall left of prominent orange off-width corner at left end of crag.
FA: Glen Tempest, 1993 | 50m, 2, 5 | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track Gilham's Crags - Southside The Chilly Bin | |||||
27 | ★★ Sleazy Slimpers
Start as for 'The Gloaming'. At the second bolt head directly up past a RB sleazing your way past many slimpers to a thin seam 2RB. At top of seam head left, RB and up to hit the major break. At the break continue to head left and then up through the steeper rock passing the pocket of love and 3 more RB, to a double u bolt anchor. FFA: adam demmert, 2012 | 30m, 9 | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track Gilham's Crags - Southside Begegnung Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ Don't Make a Monster of Your Mind
Starts in cave where cliff meets the little creek, and climbs the steep wall just left of arete. A brutal jump start off a crimp (add a rock if you are short), leads into some enjoyable wrestling and technical finish. FA: Ross Taylor, 2009 | 15m, 6 | |||
27 | ★★★ Proprioception Lost
Tricky climbing up an overhanging seam, with a good measure of dynos and technique required. Joins CNU for a few moves before finishing up arete, no. 1or 2 camalot required. FFA: adam demmert, 2012 | 15m, 5 | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track Gilham's Crags - Northside Closed Goat Crag | |||||
27 | ★ Here Comes the Storm
A frustrating crux. The prominent middle crack-line on the orange wall. Stepped corner-crack to ledge. Step right and up line to a slippery crack (awkward to clip FH on left). After difficulties step left and up steep wall. FA: Glenn Tempest, 1990 | 22m, 1 | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track Out to Lunch Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ Completely Out to Lunch
Takes centre of orange wall.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Monks (alt), 1991 | 40m, 2 | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track Eagles Head Eagles Head Summit Crags HB Wall | |||||
27 | The Chinstrap Gobbler
Climb the right leading sickle/crack on the steep orange wall to the left of Thesinger. The top of the climb is equipped with chains for descent. Can be climbed with a full set of standard rocks. FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 2011 | 30m | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track Eagles Head Lower Tier Left Side | |||||
27 | ★ Cherry Boy
Geoff was pointed at this to keep him away from STD Wall. Thin technical seam up the overhung wall at the left end of the crag. Might be more popular if the crappy fixed wire was replaced with a bolt. FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984 | 20m | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track The Flatiron | |||||
27 | Body Attack
Climbs the left of two cracks splitting the central prow. Approach via 'Against The Tide' continuing rightwards down the sloping terrace to a two bolt belay. Bring a full set of wires, a double set of cams to 0.75 Camalot, and long runners. Double ropes recommended (two ropes required for rap from chains). FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010 | 30m | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range The Fortress Area The Fortress Summit Block | |||||
27 | ★★★ Passport to Insanity
1
20
50m
2
27
20m
3
18
40m
"The best line in Australia...". Also notable for the fact that Nyrie Dodd's free ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 27. The second pitch roof-crack could hardly be in a better position. This is also a superb mixed climb at 20, M2 if the roof is aided. Sadly it is often under-estimated and the detritus of retreat is often evident. It is not a practice route. The start is rather obvious.
FA: K. Lockwood & J Friend, 1974 FFA: Nyrie Dodd, 1986 | 110m, 3 | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range The Fortress Area The Fortress Eastern End Ghost Ships | |||||
27 | ★★★ The Big Lebowski
Vertical seam into roof. FA: Nick Hancock, 2004 | 30m | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Buandik Area Closed Little Hands Cave | |||||
27 | ★★ Fingers Become Thumbs
Located near man habnds cave, opposite side of little hands. Destined to be an obscure classic. | 20m, 7 | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Buandik Area The Catacombs | |||||
27 | ★★ Ogre Power
In shade after 11am. Technical start past two RB. At 3rd bolt head up and left past juggy corner to horizontal break. Up juggy diagonal crack and then left towards powerful finish and DRB lower-off. Re-bolted 2018 Set: Heath Black & Andreas Aachen FA: Andreas Aachen, Oct 2018 | 25m, 7 | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Buandik Area The Crater | |||||
27 | ★★ Rush of Blood to the Head
FA: Malcolm matheson Neil Monteith, 2004 | 10m | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Buandik Area The Tower | |||||
27 | ★ Anatomica
Starts in chasm. FA: Ingvar | 15m | |||
27 | ★★★ Super Mario Bros Direct Start
Avoid the big dyno by starting on the cairn down low. Stick clip first bolt then boulder up the unlikely steep corner and through roof to reach big jugs and join into original route. Burly. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2005 | 20m | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Buandik Area Closed The Gallery | |||||
27 | ★ Koala - Monkey Puzzle Direct
Break off left after 3rd bolt of Koala into MPD. | 15m | |||
27 | ★★★ Chasin' the Shadow
It's 3 o'clock..tick tock.. A hard bouldery start, then it's a pumpy fight up and L to the same chain as the previous routes. FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991 | 15m | |||
27 | ★★ Lightning Dyke
Tough boulderery start of the cairn. Follow the dyke feature to anchor. Thin, technical and sustained. FFA: chris abernethy FA: 18 Jan 2015 | 15m, 4 | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Red Rock Area Scoop Rocks | |||||
27 | ★ Framed
Start up 'The Honeymoon is Over' then clip a bolt way out R. Swing R to the nose and up the wall past a PR. FA: Dave Jones & Richard Heap | 17m | |||
27 | ★★ The Honeymoon is Over
Splitter steep finger crack on the right side of 'The Prow'. FA: Malcolm Matheson | 17m | |||
27 | ★★★ Convicts
Mega line right through the guts of the wall with a bold right leading finish. The reachy start still stumps Malcolm. He can do the rest at 26... | 17m | |||
27 | ★★★ Rival Dealer
Direct finish to malcolms project. Look for the anchor! | ||||
27 | ★ Media Control
Starts a few meters right of Poison Bait. Great athletic roof climbing. | 15m | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Red Rock Area Crag X | |||||
27 | ★★★ Steeped in Sunshine
The awesome steep red wall above the ledge on PNtT. Start up that route (3 camalot and small cams and wires) to ledge. Build an anchor and extend to over lip of ledge for rope drag. (Double length sling). A small camalot (0.3/0.4) protects clipping the first bolt (placed high to not impact PNtT). Very pumpy, steep climbing on jugs leads to a powerful finale on immaculate rock. A 1 camalot can be placed between the last bolt and the double ring bolt lower off. A 60m rope can be used to climb in a pitch and lower to the ground. FA: Kerrin gale, 29 May 2018 | 28m, 6 | |||
27 | ★★ Scenes From Highways
Arapiles like face you see on the left when entering crag x. Located adjacent to Red Rocks, the key is to access from other side of creek via cairns. Climb up gully to reach base of route. Bridge initial blankness. Pumpy! FA: Kent Paterson, 2017 | 20m, 9 | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles South Pinnacle | |||||
27 | ★★ Chrysalis
Rising techincal traverse and crimpy face out left from 'Fat Fingered Freak'. From FFFs 2nd bolt head hard left on shallow slots to big break. Shake, then crimp like a fiend to next big break. Finish up further thin stuff to lower-off. 4th bolt is hard to clip without extension. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 20m, 6 | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Red Rock Area Band Of Gypsies | |||||
27 | ★★★ Grand Oral Disseminator
Watch out for skating cams and feet on the slick rock. FA: Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert, 2005 | 25m, 1 | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Muline Crag | |||||
27 | ★ Jumping Geraniums
Start up 'Sullivan Street' then bust out left and up bulging wall above. #2 Camalot can be placed after last bolt to protect runout finish. Needs rebolting! FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002 | 17m | |||
27 | ★★★ Desert Rose
Another superb line. The best 27 in the 'Grampians' - although most think its actually 28! Start: Start about 8m R of After Midnight. FA: HB, 1994 | 30m, 8 | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Eureka Area The Lost World | |||||
27 | ★★ The Obelisk
Roof right of pitch 2 of 'A Space Odyssey'. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003 | 20m, 4 | |||
27 | ★★ A Space Odyssey PItch 2 Left Side
Super exposed upside-down roof-arête. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003 | 15m, 3 | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Eureka Area Clean Cut Walls | |||||
27 | ★★★ Highly Evolved
Crazy jump to start or 26 if you batman to first jug. Awesome either way. FA: Kent Paterson & Andrew Anderson, 2014 | 30m, 11 | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Eureka Area Eureka Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ String Theory
Start: Start as for AP
Adam Demmert and John Schmit climbed pitch 1 in 2009. The Adam and Malcolm did the second in 2014 FFA: adam demmert, jono schmidt & Malcolm Matherson, 17 Nov 2014 | 80m, 2, 8 | |||
27 | ★★ Diminishing Returns
Needs a 60m rope!!!!! | 30m | |||
North West Grampians Halls Gap Area South-East Mt Difficult Range The Watchtower | |||||
27 | ★ Slam Dunk
Shallow, bulging groove 5m R of Purple Haze. FA: Mike Law & Stephen Hamilton, 1991 | 30m, 2 | |||
27 | ★★★ Pink Rabbits
Busts left after bouldery start on Slam Dunk. Sustained!! Set: kp | 20m, 7 | |||
North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Town Cliffs The Terraces | |||||
27 | ★★ Conditions of My Parole
The obvious Arapilesean sleazefest through the cave. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 26 Feb 2021 | 20m | |||
North West Grampians Central Grampians Bundaleer Area Bundaleer | |||||
27 | ★★ Angular Perspective (to first chain)
FA: HB | 12m | |||
27 | ★ Whitebait
Thin offset seam with ringbolts. This looks like a massive sandbag. Prepare to be humbled! FA: Ingvar Lidman, 1998 | 18m, 4 | |||
27 | Surfing With the Aliens
Slabby seam with offset edges on far left end of cliff. Shallow corners 15m left of Whitebait. Three eye-bolts. Crack above. Advisable to stick clip the first BR. Rapchains. FA: Steve Chapman, 1999 | 20m, 3 | |||
North West Grampians The Black Range Black Ian's Rocks | |||||
27 | ★ Panama Papers
The dimpled wall which used to have old carrots. A bouldery start guards the fun face climbing above. | 15m, 4 | |||
North West Grampians North Grampians Briggs Bluff Area Centurion Walls Lower Centurion Walls | |||||
27 | ★ Compressor Route
Rarely repeated. A long route with a sting in the tail. Climb past BR and broken rock into scoop, then very bouldery move left across cave. At sixth ring bolt go right and direct up face past limestone like large pocket and micro edges through bulge. 9 RBs and chain lower off. FA: Nick McKinnon, 2002 | 20m, 9 | |||
27 | ★★ Nowhere to Hide
Direct start through scoops of afterworld past ringbolts. Joins afterworld for last few bolts. FA: Kent Paterson | 20m, 8 | |||
North West Grampians North Grampians Briggs Bluff Area Centurion Walls Upper Centurion Walls | |||||
27 | ★★★ Desert Crack
On the far right side of the chossy cave is a very obvious overhanging finger sandy crack. Aid this using cams to size #1 and some birdbeaks for the top. Might go free at grade 25? Rap off shitty sling. This now goes free at grade 27, will become super classic trad crack test price. Probably the best true finger crack in the grampians. Gear 0.1 to 0.5 bd x4 FA: Neil Monteith (solo), 2000 FFA: mark & Glenn Tempest, 27 Nov 2018 | 14m | |||
North West Grampians North Grampians NE Mt Zero Range G-Land | |||||
27 | The Righteous and the Wicked
| ||||
27 | The Convenience Store
| ||||
27 | Lyrical Gangster
| ||||
North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Van Diemen's Land | |||||
27 | ★★★ Velvet Goldmine
aka The Dopeman 'Extension'. An excellent line across a prominent feature. A modern classic that was somehow overlooked in the first VD Land onslaught. Start: Start on ledge at finish of 'The Dope Man'. FA: Matt Brooks | 25m, 9 | |||
27 | ★★ Shoot From The Hip
Start as dope man.... punch left at ceiling campussing on pockets. | 17m | |||
27 | ★ Messin' With The Kid
Seeps like a waterfall, except during long dry spells. Great moves though. | 15m, 6 | |||
27 | ★ Ronin
Just your regular crazy gramps stone. FA: kp | 20m, 7 | |||
North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Bad Moon Rising Wall | |||||
27 | ★ Bunny Boiler
A 27 slab. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 2012 | ||||
North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) The Dungeon | |||||
27 | ★★ Endangered Species
TG direct finish. Might be 28 Set: adam demmert FFA: Kent Paterson, 2016 | 8 | |||
27 | ★★ Curse Of The Bilby
New wave testpiece. Excellent sustained face climbing. 7 bolts to fixed biner lower off. The resident lunch-stealing critter is actually a bandicoot, not a bilby! | 15m, 7 | |||
North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Clicke Wall Clicke Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ One Bed to the Left
Outstanding arete with some very technical moves. Rebolted 2011 (thank goodness). Start: 10m L of 'Clicke Crack' is the scarily exposed traverse which leads left to the main section 'Clicke Wall'. Start just L of the scary bit, under the L side of the obvious short arete. FA: Dave Jones. Bolted & attempted by Scott Camps., 1997 | 18m, 4 | |||
North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Amnesty Wall Area Amnesty Wall | |||||
27 | ★ Freedom Fighter
Bloody hard finish which can be done two ways. Start: Line of FH's up black seam just to the right of 'Amnesty International'. FA: Matt Brooks | 25m, 10 | |||
27 | ★★★ Minor Threat (Link-up)
Starts as league of Nations, Goes into UN, then finishes as good fight direct. Some linkups are pretty lame, but imho this is f#cking ace. | ||||
North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Closed Gun Buttress | |||||
27 | ★★ Crazy Da Must Sing
Excellent climbing with a very technical finish. One of the only Scott Camps projects that he actually managed to get up! FA: Scott Camps & Peter Griffen, 1988 | 18m | |||
North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Bowler Boulder | |||||
27 | ★ Slit Your Throat
The FA was nearly stolen by my younger brother Daniel who fortunately fell off after the crux. Start 3m R of The Fear of Music. The thin face to a very thin and hard boulder to reach the break. Step R a move and take the R side of the headwall to the DRB loweroff. The old carrots and hangers have been replaced with Fixe ringbolts 3 Mar 17 (Is this Slit Your Throat as per http://vicclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Grampians-update.pdf )?? FA: Matt Brooks, 1990 FA: Matt Brooks & Daniel Brooks, 1993 | 15m, 4 | |||
North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre The Plaza Strip | |||||
27 | ★★★ From the Womb to the Tomb
Powerful corner climbing at its best. Start about 20m right 'Technorganica' around the right side of the arete. Stick clip the first bolt. Climb starts about 2m right of corner, climb up to horizontal crack, traverse this to gain corner proper. Continually powerful moves up corner to exit it on the left then traverse back right over the top of it to DB lower off. 'Extension' is an open project. FFA: adam demmert, 2010 | 15m, 5 | |||
North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Lower Taipan Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ Inkido Roof
This steep and powerful roof looks like fantastic climbing, but unfortunately the bolts have not aged well and it is mostly only 4-5m off the ground requiring care to avoid groundfalls. Start: Start 25m R of 'Gilgamesh' at the R end of the low rooves. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1993 | 12m | |||
27 | ★★ Tyger, Tyger
Burning bright. Start beneath the overhanging corner 20m R of 'The Rubicon'. A burly start leads into the corner which takes you to the roof, which has three manky pitons (and bomber gear). From here there is a tough move at the lip and 2 FHs before the lower off. FA: Nick White & Andy Pollitt, 1990 | 20m, 5 | |||
North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Spurt Wall | |||||
27 | ★ Sticky Fingers
Climbs Garry's old project up and left from third bolt on Weak Boy past a cool boulder. Was a bolting (and glueing?) controversy, with a dodgy SIKA hold. Start: Start as for 'Weak Boy'. FA: Garry Phillips, 2000 FFA: Simon Young, 2013 | 15m, 5 | |||
27 | ★★ Not Too Bad
Underrated and sustained. Graded 27 for many years although Simon originally thought it was 28. Some people love it and some people hate it. Six u-bolts and an exciting runout at the finish. The last bolt was added ten years after the first ascent to stop a potential 14m fall! FA: Simon Carter | 18m, 6 | |||
North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - South | |||||
27 | ★★ Rattler
2 bolt boulder start to RS. Classic!! | ||||
27 | ★★★ Mr Que
This linkup provides an easier way to do Tourniquet p2 as a single monster pitch from the ground. Climb Mr J p1 to it's 2nd last bolt, slopy traverse R to middle of black streak (cams), spicy up black streak into the spacious cave. Join Tourniquet pitch 2 up the arete. | 45m, 10 | |||
27 | ★★ World Party Pitch 2
FA: Andy Pollit | 12m | |||
27 | ★★★ World Party
1
21
20m
2
27
13m
3
24
20m
The stunning final pitch is one of the very best on the wall. Before you get there, there's a hard crux on the 2nd pitch. The hanging 2nd belay is best avoided by linking pitches 2 and 3, while pitch 2 is easily worked from the ground if you have a recalcitrant belayer. Start on the elevated ledge, 7m R of the top of the boulder and just R of the small tree, at a short fat flake on the slab.
FA: Peter Cresswell (1), Andy Pollit (2 & 3), 1990 | 53m, 3, 9 | |||
North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
27 | ★ Naja pitch 1
| 25m | |||
27 | ★★★ Sidewinder
Another excellent 15m variant to Serpentine. Follow Serpentine pitch 2 for 12m until halfway up the fridge hugging. Trend R and up past bolts to loweroffs (30m to 1st belay, 52m to ground). The loweroff is somewhat diagonal - be careful not to end up hanging in space. FA: Scott Walter, 2000 | 30m | |||
27 | ★★★ Mirage
Variety! The famous HB dyno route as immortalized by Simon Carter's photos in the early 1990s. Take a full rack up to #2.5Fr, including Aliens, RPs, and sling runners (and/or double ropes) to minimise drag. Start as for Sirocco.
FA: Malcolm Matheson (pitch 1), 1990 FA: Quentin Chastagnier, 2013 | 35m, 2, 15 | |||
27 | ★★ Pythonesque
A good option if you think Father O eases off too much after its crux. Start as for Father O, until just past it's 3rd bolt. Now head up the R side of the scoop, through bulge past 2 FHs and 2 RBs (thin crux direct past 2nd RB - deduct a grade (and maybe some self respect) if you deviate L around this bolt into Father O) to break. Trend R from break to top. Take cams & wires. If that's not enough harder climbing for you then throw in the worthwhile direct start, from the middle of the belay ledge and heading up L (good tiny trad) to Father O's first bolt. FA: Will Monks, 2013 | 35m | |||
27 | ★★★ The Seventh Banana
A good aid climb turned into a great free climb. The first pitch is worth a star or two in its own right and is justifiably very popular with Taipan virgins. Start 25m R of The Great Divide, and 8m R of The Chick is Trouble.
FFA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson FA: FA Nick Reeves, Dave Mudie & Steve Due (alt), 1975 | 55m, 2, 6 | |||
27 | ★★ The Great Divide
Wonderful climbing based on the sharp, undercut arete right of Dance of Life. The crux is very hard, but very short. If you pull on the crux bolt it's an excellent 25M1. Take a full rack incl. 2 #3.5 cams, and 15-20 quickdraws. Start directly below the impressive hanging arete which soars upwards from the R side of a large roof. This is just L of where the walk-in meets the cliff, and is where the track along the base balances along the top edge of a large smooth-faced boulder.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Martin Scheel, 1984 | 50m, 2, 3 | |||
North West Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Olive Cave | |||||
27 | ★★★ Malice
The gobsmaking left leaning line in the centre of the cave finishing near the end of 'Tazer'. One FH at start and one right near the finish. The rest is old school trad! Malcolm flashed it for the second ascent. FFA: adam demmert, 2008 FA: Adam Demmert, 2008 | 35m, 2 | |||
North West Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area Mount of Olives Shangri-La | |||||
27 | ★★★ The Fat of the Land
This line breaches the steepest part of the main wall on perfect rock, with some amazing moves to get through the bulges. Start at the left of 2 cracks that head up the the lower part of the main wall. Blast up through some very steep bulges, with some great slopers for slapping. FFA: adam demmert FA: Adam Demmert, 2008 | 25m, 9 | |||
North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Sentinel Cave | |||||
27 | ★ Canadian Honey
Line of FHs through roof left of 'Antics'. Start as for MD. 2 boulders broken by no hands rest. Bolted by Monty in 2004. FA: 2004 FFA: Josh Grose, 27 May 2018 | 10m | |||
North West Arapiles Far North Upper Curtain Wall | |||||
27 | ★ Encore
Start as for Cliffhanger. Continue straight up passing a bolt. At the roof reverse Curtain Call for 3m. Gain the headwall above via a neat pocket sequence (crux) passing two bolts. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009 | 30m, 3 | |||
North West Arapiles Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ Bada boom
Climb Cut Short for a few metres until you can gain the hanging orange/grey wall to the left. Up this on delightful incuts, slopes, razors, and pockets to gain a series of beautiful pockets above an orange overlap. Make a span leftwards above the lip to pick up a vertical seam through a bulge then stagger over this to join Tapestry at the end of its traverse. Finish up Tapestry. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009 | 30m, 5 | |||
North West Arapiles Northern Group High Dive Gully | |||||
27 | ★★ Power Corruption and Lies
"Power" your way along the slopey traverse line 4m down and right of "Cellular Destruction" to a bolt. Now up past second bolt to letterbox slot (#0.75 BD cam or better, #0.1 BD cam in the smaller gap leaving space for your hands). Up (being careful not to escape out R to the easier ground on the arete and incur the ridicule of the climbing community) into Cellular Destruction at the end of its traverse and finish as for it, complete with its hideous mantle. FA: Geoff Weigand, 1985 | 15m | |||
North West Arapiles Northern Group Mysteries Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ Pooh Sticks
Nowadays largely ignored but still worth doing in it's own right. Originally started by stepping off the pillar into the line but now incorporates the direct start from the ground. Where the connection moves left into 'Anus Horribilus', continue straight up via the traditionally protected arete. FA: Roland Foster, 1989 | 22m, 3 |