|3||The High Chair
Charlie never climbed the steep side. Guess he wanted to leave some for everyone else! This climbs the line leading to the flake dripping down across from #2. Thin.
|V14||★★★ Wave Swoop
|V0-||Orange 3||4m||Inner Melbourne|
|18||★★ Tres Hombres
3m R of EAT, bouldery start, scoop,L ,2 bolt belay.
|10m, 2||The You Yangs|
|10||The Negro's Crack
|V7||★★★ Regal Passage
Start Low on Slopers at Aréte trend left then Dyno for the lip
Start just R of 'Unrequited'. A more fingery version of Slopin' Sleazin' perhaps?
FA: Ingvar Lidman
|V0||★ The Crescent
|V8||★★★ Happy Daze
|19||Realign This Tim Day
Don't meltdown on this one! In the centre of the wall opposite Pig Tail (ie to the east) is a thin incipient crack that doesn't reach the ground and stops at the first bulge. Start at the small ramp immediately to the left of this thin crack. Step up and right into the crack and then power directly up the wall above. More problematic than it looks.
|22||★ Athol's 22
Retro bolted line that climbs thin and well past 2 bolts.
|24||★★ Let's Face It
Pitch 1 of this route can be climbed in isolation as there is a rap anchor at the first belay.
Start: Start as for 'Fall Out'.
FA: p4: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd
FA: p2: Chris Shepherd & Rod Young
FA: p1: Chris Shepherd & Lincoln Shepherd, 1981
|16||★ Empty Dreams
|18||★ Crack Attack
Left leaning crack.
|10m||The You Yangs|
|13||Heart of Gold
|V6||★★ Miss Muppet
Sit start a couple of meters to the right of the end of the 'The Spurt Traverse'. Start on small edges heading up an left to the good pockets and final victory jug.
|26||★★ Forked Tongue
A rising traverse line across a major feature linking Anaconda into Mr Joshua. Start at rap chain at end of first pitch of Anaconda. Climb Anaconda's 2nd pitch for 3 bolts then scuttle right (2 UBs) into white cave. A good alternative is to head R from Anaconda's 2nd FH and heelhook up the diagonal bulge (pre-extend the 1st UB). From the cave, go-go-gadget span between scoops to reach juggy flake. Swing across this (large wires/cams, or just run it out) then up final scoopy headwall (UB) to join Mr Joshua pitch 1 at it's last bolt. Backclean, or get some idiot to second then rap off (38m).
FFA: Toby Pola
FA: Equipped & dogged by Neil Monteith, 2005
|★★ Banana fingers
This route uses only the masonry drill holes for the hands and any feet. Starts at same spot as Pandemonium and Phalanger Challenger, traverse to the right until you get to the hand jam crack.
|V2||★★ All The Cool Ants Are Doing It
Traverses the slab left to right at medium height, starting at the arête and finishing at the short corner.
|18||★★ Groucho Direct Start
|18||The Elephant's Hide: Right
Right side of the main face to yet another mossy topout. Depending on line this wall is roughly grade 12-22.
|6m||Ship Rock, Gembrook|
|V4||The Lannan Express
Start as for easy lane. RH to sidepull just above start jug, wind up and hit the diagonal. Finish up left. 1 mover.
|V7||★★ Full Cream
A direct start to 'Skim Milk' - finishing as for that problem.
|VB||Mad||3m||Langley Nature Conservation Reserve|
Line 32 metres right of 'Blackfoot'
Into the bush about 100m left of the Skittle boulder.
FA: Nick Sutter
|28||★★ School Of Seven Bells
A subtle jigsaw of movement.
|19||★★ The Head Shrinker
Left-leaning corner 30m left of 'Flaming Arrow'.
|V5||★ Direct Dopamine
Start on crimp rail and R hand side pull. Gain slopey ledge, and head left through small edges and slopers.
FA: Jimmy Stephens
|21||Don’t cheat on me
The line of RBs to the left of the big block on the main face. Up and right to big flake. Powerful move over flake and straight up. Finishing the route using the right-hand juggy arete makes it a consistent 21 while the intended direct finish might be 22.
Set by Ben Kucenko & Bernie Mishkinis
FA: Ben Kucenko, 2017
|20||★★★ Flights of Fancy
|5||Cod-Pieces And Tights
|V10||★★★ London Gentleman
|V6/7||★★ Ashes in our Mouthes
Tough stand start matched on the obvious hold on the left side of arete between AtA and FT. Hard for the grade. Will go from a sit start via a couple of proper hard moves. Static start for the grade, V6 with a hop.
Crack on the right side of the block
An old nut and a threaded sling were in situ on this climb.
|10|| Just A Warm-up
Sit start on marked holds, climb up. A controlled hand slap on the 12th block from the ground is the finish.
|22|| House of Cards
|18||Heathers Silver Jugs
Start: Just L of the arete.
|No cheating: finish above volume
|22|| ★ ATO, Baby
|18||Eight Hours Work
Up crimps on face to the left of Windbreak.
|Lime green - finish on top
Lime green holds
|15||Vultures Don't Tango
Unknown climb on face to the left of Cutthroat Crack, line of carrots. Name of climb, FA, and grade are unknown, although some suggest it goes at around 24.
|19||Live and Let Die
Re-bolted with 5 glue in bolts and rap rings 21.6.2003
FA: Matt Brooks
|Bullengarook Slate Quarry|
Traverse the full length of the wall, staying down low.
|V7||★★★ Grand Discovery
Beautiful highball face.
|15||Handle With Care
|16||★ Steph In Soweto Moderately Direct Start
|V0+||★ Into cave and chimney out L
|V7||★★★ Where the Wild Things Are
|Turtle Rock Girdle Traverse
Traverse of the wall. However, the crack is so big you can squeeze into it and into the 'cave' inside.
|25||Razor Gang Direct
|10|| Ants On Heat
Up the wall to diagonal ramp under the impressive headwall. Right along ramp then up chimney.
Start: About 50 metres left of "Carousel" the track swings up under an east-facing wall. Scramble up to the left end.
|21||Hands In Pockets
Jump for the small slanting sidepull on the arete with your right hand. Get established on the large rail above before topping out over the upper arete
FA: Martin Lama
|V2||★ Rippled slab 3
Takes the far right line proper - finishing at the high point of the wall
FA: Peter Reynolds
|19||★ Day Tripper
A good approach to 'The Golden Echo'.
Start: Start as for 'A Taste of Honey' Direct Start.
FA: Mark Witham & Michael Hartman
Can be bouldered or top roped (there's a bolt on top).
A great novelty warm-up. The route climbs the 'backbone' scoopy arete of the uphill side of the pillar past four FH's. Getting past the ever growing tree could be the crux! Rap off double rings.
FA: Neil Monteith
|V4||★ Fackeln im Sturm
The big overhanging nose, starting on the left and traversing right to a mantle topout.
|V0+||★ Up nice wall
|17||Gandolf the Grey
Slab climbing in the Grampians? The right hand side line past one UB and four FHs. Pass 1st FH on the right to finish up the arête to a double bolt lower off.
FA: Ben Hawthorne
|26||★★ Ocean Rain
Left leaning line of FHs 10m left of 'Terminal Insomnia'. Either stickclip first bolt or lean over from pinnacle. Burly traverse leads to technical climbing on gritty pockets. Motor up short corner to a climatic finish. Upgraded
|15||★ Mohawk Hanky
The natural line on the face, avoiding the hard bits of the other two routes. Quite sustained. Take a few cams with a couple of #1 and #3 in the mix.
|V3||★★ V3 Arete
|22||★★ Misty [Variant]
Starting on the ledge, climb the right hand wall (on the detached block). Clip the RB on the main wall and make an exciting traverse left to gain the vertical seam. Arrange good wires and commit to a tough run out crux sequence. Place a green and yellow alien before reaching jugs as crack widens to the top. Rap from double bolts.
FA: Ben Eichler & B Abernethy
|V8||★★ Lucky Man
Located approximately 5 mins along the path from Scorpion Rocks towards Dog Rocks. Sit-start right of The Leaning and make a long move to a crimp with your right. Move up to a left crimp and then out to a small right pocket. From here, move left to the arête and top out around it. An easier variation heads to the left arete after the first move.
FA: Peter Reynolds
|V8||★★★ Green Destiny
Sit start on the right side of the hueco and make a big move up to slopey holds and continue up hard moves on bad holds over the bulge left of White Destiny.
|V1||★★ Do over
just about the only section of the wall tall enough to go up. Start sitting with hands on the rail at mid height, move up to the crimps and then gain the top
FA: Fraser Gust
|V1||★★ Slab behind first boulder off track
|V14||X-treme Cool + The big flake link
|V2||★ Caterpualt (s)