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Routes in Victoria

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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Unknown year
3 The High Chair
Trad 15m Grampians
V4 Subversion

Charlie never climbed the steep side. Guess he wanted to leave some for everyone else! This climbs the line leading to the flake dripping down across from #2. Thin.

Unknown
Black Hill
V14 Wave Swoop
Boulder Grampians
V0- Orange 3 Boulder 4m Inner Melbourne
6 One Notion
Trad 30m Mt Hope
18 Tres Hombres

3m R of EAT, bouldery start, scoop,L ,2 bolt belay.

Sport 10m, 2 The You Yangs
10 The Negro's Crack
Trad 58m Grampians
V7 Regal Passage

Start Low on Slopers at Aréte trend left then Dyno for the lip

FA: Chook

Boulder Grampians
28 Required

Start just R of 'Unrequited'. A more fingery version of Slopin' Sleazin' perhaps?

FA: Ingvar Lidman

Sport 15m, 3 Arapiles
V0 The Crescent
Boulder 2m Grampians
V8 Happy Daze
Boulder Grampians
19 Realign This Tim Day
Trad 10m Mt Hope
18 China Syndrome

Don't meltdown on this one! In the centre of the wall opposite Pig Tail (ie to the east) is a thin incipient crack that doesn't reach the ground and stops at the first bulge. Start at the small ramp immediately to the left of this thin crack. Step up and right into the crack and then power directly up the wall above. More problematic than it looks.

Trad 15m Grampians
22 Athol's 22

Retro bolted line that climbs thin and well past 2 bolts.

Sport 7m Black Hill
24 Let's Face It

Pitch 1 of this route can be climbed in isolation as there is a rap anchor at the first belay.

Start: Start as for 'Fall Out'.

  1. 25m (23) Through the gauno roof as for 'Fall Out', then slime your way R into the next corner. R around roof then up.

  2. 30m (24) Move L to gain a R-leaning flake with difficulty. Step L to next flake and up to stance on arete.

  3. 20m (-) Easily up to big ledge.

  4. 20m (21) Straight up the arete, R of 'Fall Out' p4.

FA: p4: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd

FA: p2: Chris Shepherd & Rod Young

FA: p1: Chris Shepherd & Lincoln Shepherd, 1981

Trad 100m, 4 Arapiles
V0- Scramble Boulder Inner Melbourne
V5 Tainted
Boulder Grampians
17 Nirvana
Unknown 15m
Mt Kooyoora
15 The Twitch
Trad 35m Grampians
23 Addendum
Trad 18m Grampians
16 Empty Dreams
Trad 30m Grampians
15 Jaws
Trad 24m Phillip Island
18 Crack Attack

Left leaning crack.

Trad 10m The You Yangs
13 Heart of Gold
Trad 40m Grampians
V6 Miss Muppet

Sit start a couple of meters to the right of the end of the 'The Spurt Traverse'. Start on small edges heading up an left to the good pockets and final victory jug.

Boulder Grampians
26 Forked Tongue

A rising traverse line across a major feature linking Anaconda into Mr Joshua. Start at rap chain at end of first pitch of Anaconda. Climb Anaconda's 2nd pitch for 3 bolts then scuttle right (2 UBs) into white cave. A good alternative is to head R from Anaconda's 2nd FH and heelhook up the diagonal bulge (pre-extend the 1st UB). From the cave, go-go-gadget span between scoops to reach juggy flake. Swing across this (large wires/cams, or just run it out) then up final scoopy headwall (UB) to join Mr Joshua pitch 1 at it's last bolt. Backclean, or get some idiot to second then rap off (38m).

FFA: Toby Pola

FA: Equipped & dogged by Neil Monteith, 2005

Mixed trad 25m, 8 Grampians
Banana fingers

This route uses only the masonry drill holes for the hands and any feet. Starts at same spot as Pandemonium and Phalanger Challenger, traverse to the right until you get to the hand jam crack.

Boulder 12m Inner Melbourne
V2 All The Cool Ants Are Doing It

Traverses the slab left to right at medium height, starting at the arête and finishing at the short corner.

Boulder 10m Albury Quarry
18 Groucho Direct Start
Trad 59m Grampians
18 The Elephant's Hide: Right

Right side of the main face to yet another mossy topout. Depending on line this wall is roughly grade 12-22.

Trad 6m Ship Rock, Gembrook
V4 The Lannan Express

Start as for easy lane. RH to sidepull just above start jug, wind up and hit the diagonal. Finish up left. 1 mover.

Boulder 3m Grampians
21 Insanity
Trad 40m Grampians
V7 Full Cream

A direct start to 'Skim Milk' - finishing as for that problem.

Boulder Grampians
VB Mad

SDS - head left and up once at the long crimp rail.

Boulder 3m Langley Nature Conservation Reserve
12 Xanadu
Trad 88m Grampians
10 Rurp Sport 6m, 1 Meredith
17 Sioux

Line 32 metres right of 'Blackfoot'

Trad 53m Grampians
V12 Bearback

Into the bush about 100m left of the Skittle boulder.

FA: Nick Sutter

Boulder Cobaw Forest
28 School Of Seven Bells

A subtle jigsaw of movement.

Sport 15m, 5 Grampians
19 The Head Shrinker

Left-leaning corner 30m left of 'Flaming Arrow'.

Trad 84m Grampians
V5 Direct Dopamine

Start on crimp rail and R hand side pull. Gain slopey ledge, and head left through small edges and slopers.

FA: Jimmy Stephens

Boulder 3m Grampians
24 Metal Edged
Trad 30m Grampians
21 Don’t cheat on me

The line of RBs to the left of the big block on the main face. Up and right to big flake. Powerful move over flake and straight up. Finishing the route using the right-hand juggy arete makes it a consistent 21 while the intended direct finish might be 22.

Set by Ben Kucenko & Bernie Mishkinis

FA: Ben Kucenko, 2017

Sport 23m, 8 Grampians
20 Flights of Fancy
Trad 72m Grampians
5 Cod-Pieces And Tights
Trad 18m Grampians
6 Arcadia
Trad 28m Grampians
V10 London Gentleman
Boulder 3m Grampians
14 Sorethumb
Trad 12m Grampians
10 (Unnamed 1)
Trad 25m Grampians
V6/7 Ashes in our Mouthes

Tough stand start matched on the obvious hold on the left side of arete between AtA and FT. Hard for the grade. Will go from a sit start via a couple of proper hard moves. Static start for the grade, V6 with a hop.

Boulder 3m Mt Alexander
14 Nosferatu

Crack on the right side of the block

Trad 10m Camels Hump
15 Holly Tree
Trad 22m Grampians
12 Unknown Nuts

An old nut and a threaded sling were in situ on this climb.

  1. 35m 12. A steep, wide crack a few meters R of the L arête of the East face, starting 10m up above a vegetated start. Up to and up crack exiting L ward where it runs out. Up past L hand end of overhang to ledge.

  2. 15m 9. Up arête until level with next large ledge, R along this to abseil bolts.

FA: Unknown

Trad 50m Grampians
10 Just A Warm-up
Trad 21m Grampians
V0- C2U2

Sit start on marked holds, climb up. A controlled hand slap on the 12th block from the ground is the finish.

Boulder 3m Inner Melbourne
22 House of Cards
Unknown 10m
Hanging Rock
18 Heathers Silver Jugs

Start: Just L of the arete.

Trad 10m Grampians
V4/5 No cheating: finish above volume

Green holds

Boulder 4m Inner Melbourne
22 ATO, Baby
Unknown 20m
Hanging Rock
18 Eight Hours Work
Trad 22m Grampians
V0 Legbreak

Up crimps on face to the left of Windbreak.

Boulder 3m Big Hill
V2 Lime green - finish on top

Lime green holds

Boulder 4m Inner Melbourne
13 Bernadette
Unknown 51m
Hanging Rock
15 Vultures Don't Tango
Trad 25m Grampians
24 Unknown

Unknown climb on face to the left of Cutthroat Crack, line of carrots. Name of climb, FA, and grade are unknown, although some suggest it goes at around 24.

Trad 20m Big Hill
19 Live and Let Die

Re-bolted with 5 glue in bolts and rap rings 21.6.2003

Unknown 15m, 5
Bullengarook Slate Quarry
Low Traverse

Traverse the full length of the wall, staying down low.

Boulder Inner Melbourne
V7 Grand Discovery

Beautiful highball face.

Boulder Grampians
20 Guillotine
Unknown
Plenty Gorge
15 Handle With Care
Trad 60m Grampians
16 Steph In Soweto Moderately Direct Start
Trad 12m Grampians
V0+ Into cave and chimney out L
Boulder Arapiles
V7 Where the Wild Things Are
Boulder 6m Grampians
Turtle Rock Girdle Traverse

Traverse of the wall. However, the crack is so big you can squeeze into it and into the 'cave' inside.

Trad Wilson's Promontory
25 Razor Gang Direct
Trad Grampians
10 Ants On Heat

Up the wall to diagonal ramp under the impressive headwall. Right along ramp then up chimney.

Start: About 50 metres left of "Carousel" the track swings up under an east-facing wall. Scramble up to the left end.

Trad 19m Grampians
21 Hands In Pockets
Trad 10m Grampians
V5 Lama's V5

Jump for the small slanting sidepull on the arete with your right hand. Get established on the large rail above before topping out over the upper arete

FA: Martin Lama

Boulder Mt Alexander
V2 Rippled slab 3

Takes the far right line proper - finishing at the high point of the wall

Boulder Mt Alexander
19 Day Tripper
Trad 8m Grampians
17 Echo System

A good approach to 'The Golden Echo'.

Start: Start as for 'A Taste of Honey' Direct Start.

FA: Mark Witham & Michael Hartman

Trad 13m Arapiles
25 Oops

Can be bouldered or top roped (there's a bolt on top).

Boulder 8m Arapiles
V3 V3
Boulder 3m Mt Alexander
V3 14)
Boulder 5m Arapiles
19 Vertabrae

A great novelty warm-up. The route climbs the 'backbone' scoopy arete of the uphill side of the pillar past four FH's. Getting past the ever growing tree could be the crux! Rap off double rings.

FA: Neil Monteith

Sport 15m Grampians
V4 Fackeln im Sturm

The big overhanging nose, starting on the left and traversing right to a mantle topout.

Boulder Grampians
V0+ Up nice wall
Boulder 3m Arapiles
17 Gandolf the Grey

Slab climbing in the Grampians? The right hand side line past one UB and four FHs. Pass 1st FH on the right to finish up the arête to a double bolt lower off.

FA: Ben Hawthorne

Sport 25m, 5 Grampians
26 Ocean Rain

Left leaning line of FHs 10m left of 'Terminal Insomnia'. Either stickclip first bolt or lean over from pinnacle. Burly traverse leads to technical climbing on gritty pockets. Motor up short corner to a climatic finish. Upgraded

Sport 25m, 8 Grampians
15 Mohawk Hanky

The natural line on the face, avoiding the hard bits of the other two routes. Quite sustained. Take a few cams with a couple of #1 and #3 in the mix.

Trad 14m Arapiles
V3 V3 Arete
Boulder 4m Arapiles
22 Misty [Variant]

Starting on the ledge, climb the right hand wall (on the detached block). Clip the RB on the main wall and make an exciting traverse left to gain the vertical seam. Arrange good wires and commit to a tough run out crux sequence. Place a green and yellow alien before reaching jugs as crack widens to the top. Rap from double bolts.

FA: Ben Eichler & B Abernethy

Mixed trad 30m, 1 Grampians
V8 Lucky Man

Located approximately 5 mins along the path from Scorpion Rocks towards Dog Rocks. Sit-start right of The Leaning and make a long move to a crimp with your right. Move up to a left crimp and then out to a small right pocket. From here, move left to the arête and top out around it. An easier variation heads to the left arete after the first move.

Boulder Mt Alexander
V8 Green Destiny

Sit start on the right side of the hueco and make a big move up to slopey holds and continue up hard moves on bad holds over the bulge left of White Destiny.

Boulder Grampians
V1 Do over

just about the only section of the wall tall enough to go up. Start sitting with hands on the rail at mid height, move up to the crimps and then gain the top

Boulder Nowa Nowa
V1 Slab behind first boulder off track
Boulder Arapiles
V5 Ocean Linear
Boulder Grampians
V14 X-treme Cool + The big flake link
Boulder Grampians
17 Lizard Lane
Unknown 120m
Mount Buffalo
V2 Caterpualt (s)
Boulder Grampians

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

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