Routes as trad in Victoria

Start as for 'Oh Bondage' for 5m, step right to a small thread, up past break to ledge, instead of mantling traverse right to jugs and your final gear before blasting straight up to finish.

Carrigans variant. Basically a totally different route to the original. From the good crimps just after the 2nd carrot bolt cut back left diagonally up the wall to wire placements and the last bit of Not Like a Hurricane.

Moorhead had placed the first bolt but not been able to get through the next sequence. He talked Yosemite Stonemaster Mike Graham into rapping the line (which he did blindfolded!) - then he went for it on lead. The last half of the route was established onsight in an amazing effort. Micro crimping past two carrot bolts leads to the mental aspect of the route - which quite arguably is the crux. Big fall potential off virtually half height gear if you lose it at the top grade 23 slab move. Employ a good belayer.

As for RLTW, but when you hit the top break, gear up for a final boulder problem! Heartbreaking, mainly because if you fall off the hard finish (well protected), you have to go back down and re-climb the the real business! Established at grade 27 - you might wonder why it was ever downgraded.

Start: As for RLTW.

(Potentially) unrepeated after 33+ years and with good reason.

Rusty PR, then dodgy and loose but critical undercling block (do NOT put gear behind this), a rusty BR that's too high to clip, then R into 'Windsong' and up to small roof. Then L a bit and over bulge past another BR as for Windsong's new and improved finish.

Start: Start 6m R of RLtW beneath rusty peg.

Arguably 'Arapiles' boldest route. Technically easier than RLTW but as stated within Gordy's 330 of the Best Guide "a 20 metre fall is a distinct possibility". Given that this fall will have you penduluming into the base of 'Los Endos', it's also a lot more serious than the latter. A technical face climb with the main crux well protected, but which stores a nightmare sequence of intricate footwork and a last minute slab rockover just where you don't need it (the last 3 metres). Use extreme caution.

Start: Start as for 'Windsong'.

Start as for Windsong but continue straight up instead of traversing right. Exit the Crux bulge above with small RP's for protection ( difficult to place on lead). The route then rejoins Windsong. Finish as for Breezin and Ride Like The Wind Direct Finish.

BR to flake (sling it). L to groove and up it to small roof. The original (23) wimped out here by following jugs R around arete. The first direct finish (24) increased quality and boldness by staying just L of the 'Los Endos' arete. The second direct finish (24, shown in the topo) is even better and maybe not as bold.

Start: Start at end of ledge 10m R of RLtW.

A bold journey through technical terrain and good but spaced gear. Start easily (either up the corner or traverse in from the left) to reach a prominent horizontal break, and follow this to the right. Reachy moves lead to a reinforced flake. You can soon reach left to clip a bolt (on Windsong), before arriving at a stance. From here, avoid the temptation to follow the juggy line right around the arete (you will be punished with mediocre climbing and phenomenal rope drag); instead, establish yourself on the arete and enjoy the crisp edges and outrageous exposure to the top. Double ropes are handy.

R on suss rock, up short crack, R below bulge, then straight up to roof and beyond.

Start: Start at the same spot as LE.

Follow break across Starless to finish up arete.

Start: Start below LE.

The ugly black crack beneath the belay of LE.

Start: Start R of SS.

The short crack leading to the end of LF's initial traverse. Place a wire with a stick before starting.

Start: Start 2m R of LEDS.

An unwitting retrobolt of the first section of GSTQ.

Start: Start as for GSTQ.

Was very bold until the death flake departed and the retrobolts arrived.

Start: Start 4m R of LFDS.

Climb a little tree to gain a jug with a fixed wire. Now head R and over a bulge.

Start: Start 1.5m R of GSTQ.

Climb the shallow groove with a bolt.

Start: Start just L of SaBB.

Start: Start at the major line jagging it\'s way up the buttress.

1. 20m (22) Tough jamming up first groove to gain jugs, then go L to a belay.

2. 20m (22) Tiring jamming leads up L of the major bulge to a roof.

Head up L from the terrace past 2 bolts. Descend by downclimbing the crack to the R.

Start: Start R of SaBB just above the top of 'Dreadnought Gully', at a terrace on the R.

Very bouldery past 2 BRs, then L to flake.

Start: This route is actually located on the top section of 'Preludes Wall', but is included in this section as it is approached from above if done separately (but it's just as easy to approach it by climbing 'Subliminal Cut' on 'Preludes' Wall). Anyway, from the base of Wind Wall, head SW towards the top of 'Reaper Buttress', to find the top of a hanging gully. Scramble down the gully to find the bolts.

A shady outing for a hot day, starting in 'Dreadnought Gully' then taking the rock between the Dreadnought and Starless Buttresses. Nod and Norm did it years ago but detoured around some challenges on the second pitch. Nod and Kieran have now straightened it out with the addition of a comforting bolt.

1. 25m (14) Up grey rib directly opposite Dreadnought, finishing up the roof crack left of the chains. Belay, then walk up the gully 20m to where the Dreadnought Buttress abuts the main cliffline at a corner.

2. 40m (16) Climb the water-polished line 3m left of the corner, trending right after about 10m. Continue trending up the grey wall right of some yellow patches of rock, then straight up centrally via a distinctive line of white spots (no, it’s not chalk) followed by a bulge, where a BR shows the way.

3. 40m The gothic headwall above features an obvious black water streak. Traverse right from the gulch and follow black streak to the top.

This is an easier version of The Catacombs. A pretty shady climb.

1. 30m As for The Catacombs – finishing via the chains (?M1) if you don’t want to do the grade 14 roof.

2. 30m Up the steep juggy crack as for The Catacombs second pitch for about 12m, then trend right up the grey wall just left of the corner. Belay in the chasm behind the top of Dreadnought Butttress.

3. 15m Climb the upper side wall of the chasm, left of a gnarly chimney.

4. 40m Follow the prominent steep crackline up the headwall, left of the final pitch of The Catacombs.

Fun climbing. Good for a hot day as its mainly in the shade.

1. 25m (14) Up first pitch of The Catacombs. Belay then walk up 20 meters, under the giant chockstone until you can see a big corner crack.

2. 13m (15) Climb corner crack and belay at top. Watch out for loose block at the top.

3. 30m (16) Climb directly up face for around 5 meters with no holds into crack. Climb crack and traverse right onto slab. Slab starts on a corner ledge and goes up for around 20 meters past bolt. Belay from top of giant round boulder roughly 8 meters above bolt. In the first section it's a bit run out if you're into that sort of thing.

I will go back next trip and install some anchors so lowering off is an option instead of having to climb the headwall (super easy).

This one is on the L side of the gully, opposite all the other routes. You need to scramble up the wall opposite Dreadnought to find it. Out the roof on the L, past a hidden BR. Very bold getting to bucket, around which you need to place a long sling for your next piece of pro.

High up on the Dreadnought Buttress. Approach as for Short Time. Start at the gully 1.5m right of an arete and left of Short Time. Take the overhang, up to small roof, BR, then L to arete. Over bulge, then up until you find a bollard good enough to rap off.

Takes the southwest arete of the Dreadnought Buttress, from a ledge above Intergalactic Space Patrol. Approach the ledge via a crack just right of Cranking for Jesus.

This route used to have a cairn of boulders - from which you would lean across the Dreadnought Gully void to reach the opposite wall - but they're no longer there (seeing that they would be built on a downward sloping ledge, that's not too surprising, and it's probably not a great OH&S practice either). Apparently this route used to have a fixed wire too. Even with those things in place, it would probably still be a Moorhead sandbag.

Once you're past the bouldery start, the difficulties soon ease.

Originally established at 25 by taking a breather on the half-height ledge on the opposite side of the gully! To reach the start of the route, scramble up the wall opposite Dreadnought, to the big chockstone in the depths of the gully.

Up short corner, then to the arete past bolt, then up and left to thin crack, then through overhangs to bolt, before moving up into left-facing corner.

The original version of Last Temptation. Climb the short arete, then up to roof. Break right over the hanging slab and join Great Temptation at its redpoint crux (also the point where the ledge is nearest). Finish as for that route.

Up EotE to bolt then up bulging line between EotE and GT to join Intergalactic Space Control near the top. Watch your back.

Access via the chockstone halfway up the grade 4 access wall. You can also get here from the top of Dreadnought p1. Hand traverse, then the very overhung crack.

The opposite wall is very close, so this route requires a very capable trad leader, or you might consider preplacing (easily done by leaning over from ledge then coming down the line from there). Also a good belayer is essential, and don't belay from the ground as there is no margin for excess ropestretch.

Starts on the small stance 5m up and left from the DRB above Dreadnought pitch 1. Climbs the impossible looking overhung face to gain the crack weakness and hanging corner 3m right of Great Temptation. Extremely hard dynamic start past a bolt leads to pockets up and right, then traverse back left into hanging corner to a rest. Onwards up the fantastic corner to top.

Line of FHs 2 metres left of Dreadnought p1, finishing by veering right to join that pitch.

Start at the back of Dreadnought Gully, 1m L of a 'D' chipped in the rock.

1. 12m (24) Launch up steep crack weakness 2m R of HaL to DRB.

2. 16m (23) Continue up marbled bulging crack above. This pitch often seeps but is still climbable.

3. 20m (-) The corner to the top is part of the original route but not really worth doing. If you do, you might need to fashion some sort of abseil to get off the top.

I nearly called this "Dreadnought Variant Left Hand Direct Variant Start". Start up Dreadnought and continue up the right seam to the top out of Dreadnought Variant.

Main left-trending diagonal, beginning with a reachy dynamic start, then trending reachily left across jugs to a cruxy exit, which is just a tad reachy. Short people often find Dreadnought easier. May well be 23.

Start on the L of DV then cross it and finish on its right.

Start as for Dreadnought Variant but then stretch right to jugs, bolt and unique pillar pinch, finishing up and slightly left via a thin crux section. Powerful.

Start 1m right of Dreadnought Variant and climb up past small pocket to slopey horizontal breaks. Past 2 bolts then traverse right to join No Exit near the top, and finish as for that route.

Start 1m left of No Exit and boulder leftwards into line (FH). Hard moves lead up, then back right into No Exit. Finish as for that route.

Start 10m R of Dreadnought below bottomless crack.

1. 15m (25) Extremely bouldery face leads to crack finish. Beware of the name!

2. 30m (23) Sensational. Thin corner, L on slab, up thin crack, then diagonally L. Rap off the top of Dreadnought p2.

Start 2m R of NE. Unattractive crimps past 2 bolts to jug, then face

Start 1m L of M. Bouldery start to bolt, then the groove.

Start 8m R of NE. Or you can avoid the crux start by starting further R.

1. 25m (22) Hard boulder problem start leading to more moderate crack weakness. At top of crack, veer left up nose below arete.

2. 8m (21) The flake on the arete to the next ledge.

3. 20m (-) Step L onto the front of the arete, spectacular over bulge, then easily to ledge.

4. 22m (-) Easily up. It's also possible (and maybe better) to simply traverse R and find a bollard to rap off.

Start by climbing to the first belay of Lawrence (which is on Dunes Buttress).

1. 25m (14) Bad rock and bad pro. From the ferny cave at Lawrence's first belay, traverse L, then go up diagonally L for 10m to ledge.

2. 20m (-) Steeply to ledge, step R off boulder, then traverse back L and up to the summit of Dreadnought pinnacle.

Good climb but watch out for loose rock up to the overhang. Belay on left side of big ledge 35m down abseil. Up grey then orange corner to the overhang. Steep through overhang and on up to final easy ground to top.

The next three routes start in the gully behind Starless Buttress, left and slightly lower than the huge chockstone. The starts are hidden by the top of Starless Buttress in the topo.

Start as for 'The Empty Quarter'.

1. 15m (15) Up to thin crack and up past bolt. Easier face left of bushy groove to big ledge.

2. 35m (16) Pull onto buttress just right of Ngarrinarri and up and right at bolt. Up a few moves just right of centre then step back left and steeply up the centre of the buttress. Easy slabby country leads to the top, taking the last little step to the left or right.

Good climbing with thin moves low down and with an overhanging groove high on the cliff. Can be done in a single long pitch or can break at a couple of places (15m or 40m). Was graded 17 before the bolt went in. Start about 5-6 metres left of the giant chockstone, below a thin seam Up to seam and up this (FH) then easy ground just right of bushy groove until line steepens (optional belay on large ledge to left). Follow the line, finishing up overhanging groove to the final easy slabby stuff. (optional belay at start of easy ground).

Originally started up 'Lawrence', a start no-one would want to repeat.

Start: Start by the giant chockstone.

1. 20m (14) Step onto the chockstone (or up short, steep wall just left of it) then juggy wall up to and up pale grey corner on right arete..

2. 40m (14) Up just left of the arete until things ease.

Tackles the hanging corner on the left side of a narrow grey/black buttress (Cow Cragg) immediately left of Lawrence's second pitch.

Start at belay/rap station near the Lawrence traverse.

Start as for Withnail and I. Climb the steep grey wall above to gain the arete proper of Cow Cragg passing a FH on its left (if you move right here it is about grade 20 and still worthwhile). Continue up the arete to join Marwood at the top.

Gain the hanging corner as for Withnail and I. Continue up the obvious crack/seam in the wall above.

Some think that the excellent climbing on the upper pitches makes up for the atrocious start; others strongly disagree.

Start between Dreadnought Buttress and Dunes Buttress at a shrubby rib.

1. 35m (9) Up the rib with vegetation issues (persevere: the climb gets better). Traverse right and belay near the beautiful ferns at DBB

2. 35m (13) Bridge steeply up the chimney.

3. 30m (13) More excellent chimneying on great rock.

A varied route which parallels Lawrence to its right and features some interesting rock flutings.

The cruxes on this and the variation are runout on average gear and the rock is a little fragile in places.

Start at the first belay of Lawrence.

From the first belay of Lawrence climb a short right leading crack to a small stance. Climb the vague groove and buttress above passing the rap station for Forbidden Fruit on its left. Higher up the buttress narrows and is marked by a crack on its left. Climb the compact grey wall to its right to gain an atttractive orange groove near the top. Finish steeply on jugs and belay in a cosy niche.Scramble easily to the top of Dunes Buttress. A righthand variation was done at 21 by Ingvar which climbs the wall directly above the Forbidden Fruit anchors to rejoin the original route at the compact gray wall.

The shenanigans on the first ascent suggest they were certainly consuming something forbidden...

Start: Start 2m L of Semi-detached.

1. 25m (23) Up wall, traverse right to gain diagonal flake sytem and follow this to ledge. There is protection but it won't stop a groundfall from the crux.

2. 20m (26) Scary face with fragile rock to crux past 2 bolts. Apparently you need double thumb sprags.

Serious start but finish is worthless. This original probe at the Forbidden Fruit face got Kieran an invition onto the FF team.

Start 4m L of Saracen.

1. 25m (22) Tough poorly protected start to dubious flake-block, then up R to jugs. Easier runout section up to overlap, over bulge and move L to join Saracen. Belay at good ledge on L.

2. 10m (22) The crack on the R side of the yellow wall, through the bulge then R to easy finish and go across to rap anchor for Sandpiper.

The first and third pitches are good. It's best to run pitches 1 and 2 or 2 and 3 together, then you get two good, long pitches followed by an easy pitch off.

Start below and L of the big overhangs, on the lower section of Dunes Buttress, at a layback crack.

1. 35m (16) Up the corner for 6m, then swing up L past overhang onto slab. Trend L into bushy territory, then R into dirty groove to Arab's 3rd belay.

2. 12m (-) Step L and up to small stance. Best to keep going up the next pitch rather than belay here.

3. 33m (16) Go 2m R then up excellent grey crack. (A grade 8 variant established by the three Gledhills on 14/1/68 goes straight up the deep crack into the chimney on pitch 4).

4. 34m (-) Ramble onwards, veering left at spacious sloping ledge

Veer up R from the corner and easily over small roof. Tough moves to a rest on the R, then out the main roof being wary of a captive loose block. Rap off as for Sandpiper.

Start as for Saracen.

start 5m left of sandpiper (2m right of Top Cat). Climb rightward up slab to corner (left of prominent nose). Follow diagonal line, crossing Sandpiper. Continue rightwards to steep overlaps (crux). Finish as for Arab pitch 1. Fun!

Start at a large chimney at the foot of the buttress, then traverse left until at the base of a short overhanging wall easily noted by large white jug, crux, then once past this, up on difficult and sharp layaways through small roof, then arriving at the rap station (26m).

Start: The overhung arete at the base of 'Dunes' buttress, up the offwidth chimney on the right.

The roof jam crack.

Start under the small lump of rock with a flat top, up and R from the start of Sandpiper.

Climb Arab p3 for 4m then step L and up. Stay out of Saracen and traverse R along the lip of the roof, to join a thin crack, straight on up the face, and take the roof by the R. The original route has a poxy independent first pitch starting 10m L of Saracen but you're far better off approaching via Arab as described.

Start at Arab's second belay.

1. First pitch of Arab.

2. Directly up face from double ring anchor to roof, climbing over the roof to the right a bit at the giant horn. Belay just after roof.

3. Climb up to the summit on the face keeping 2 meters to the right of Sacana corner when they connect mid-way.

2m L of Dunes is a R facing corner. Start by scrambling (or roping) up this to the top of the huge flake.

1. 25m (16) Grey slab to strenuous chalked wall, then head L up stepped ramp to a belay ledge on the arete. (The original avoided the overlap by going way off R - this better direct way was done by Keith Lockwood and Geoff Schirmer 4/2/78).

2. 10m (-) Step L then up over worrisome blocks and belay under orange corner. 2b: Variant 15m Straight up arete with reasonable pro and rock.

3. 15m (16) Up orange corner then R under arching roof to arete.

4. 25m (-) Up the line then L onto wall and belay under steep little crack (which is pitch 5 of Dunes).

5. 32m (-) Traverse L, ignore scrubby crack, and take the balancy grey slab then join the final corner of Dunes.

Definitely bold but the climbing is rubbish. Start at Arab's 2nd belay.

1. 15m (-) Climb the arete R of Arab's corner to a ledge.

2. 20m (21) Continue up the undercut arete, which gets rather runout.

A spectacular journey. 1. 20m Wall right of Sandpiper, continuing up slab/chimney, to good ledge. 2. 25m (crux) Break through overlap as for Arab, step up right, then follow the line of right-facing edges. (This line is left of an obvious yellow stripe of rock). Continue up wall, trending slightly left, to major horizontal break. Don’t touch the loose boulder sitting on the belay ledge. A dramatic, technically interesting pitch. 3. 20m Up black wall (left of Dunes) to the Oasis. 4. 20m As for Dunes, pitch 3. 5. 20m Move right to yellow corner, step up right and follow black rock direct to the summit.

This is the original version. Dunes Direct (described separately) is now the usual way to go.

Start up the L-facing corner of a huge flake leaning against the east face of the buttress (crawl through behind the flake from the right or scramble easily up from below).

1. 36m (-) Up the corner then trend R up slab to the base of a short chimney facing R into the gully.

2. 6m (-) Up the chimney.

3. 40m (9) Traverse L, step down, and go a bit further L. One tricky move up then continue straight up easy wall to the Oasis (the big ledge between 2 huge boulders).

4. 27m (-) Traverse L to ledge, then up the short steep crack with good jugs, and up the clean corner above.

5. 10m (-) Short corner then easy finish.

A good four pitches with the first, second and fourth having quite absorbing sections.

Start as for Dunes.

1. 30m (13) As for Dunes up the corner and slab but then skip the pitch 2 chimney over on the right by going straight up the slab, pulling L onto ledge then up the flake and wall staying R towards the arete (Sep 88, Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman).

2. 25m (11) Drift left up excellent steep clean exposed juggy climbing. Belay on spacious sloping ledge a bit before the Oasis.

3. 22m (10) Head up L to the L end of the Oasis ledge and surmount an undercut slot (not kid friendly! Maybe try further L with kids). Continue to an overhung but very juggy bulge, and belay 5m above this on a good ledge.

4. 23m (12) Ledge hop up to a very nice vertical juggy wall, then up a slippery polished corner crack (again, not kid friendly). At the top of the corner move about 5m R to find an easy way to do the last few moves to the top.

Up the steep jam-crack through the V-cleft lip, then nice flake/crack to small ledge. Step L and up short corner.

Start on the L side of the Oasis (which is 3-4 pitches up Dunes or Eskimo Nell).

The usual offering from these two! The ugly offwidth roof/corner on the L side of the boulder. Finish up EN pitch 5.

Start on the Oasis on the L side of the big boulder which Eskimo Nell pitch 4 crawls under.

This is just the original first pitch of Dunes and should probably be deleted.

Variant first pitch that avoids the greasy start of the original, but is quite runout. Squeeze through behind the block L of the original start to a ledge. Up the L side of the block and up the slab with very little gear to join the original first pitch at the corner/overlap

Wonderful climbing up the right side of the Dunes Buttress, with virtually every pitch offering something of interest.

1. 35m (10) Up surprisingly tricky left facing flake/corner (consider starting up Dunes instead if this might give you grief). Continue up slabs above and belay below chimney around the corner.

2. 40m (9) Easily up chimney. Step across the void from top of chimney onto the face proper and continue up to large ledge (the Oasis).

3. 15m (1) Crawl R through hole, belay beneath chockstone in chimney on the other side.

4. 40m (9) Pull up onto the chockstone with difficulty. Follow the deep crackline above to the top (or for a slightly easier finish trend a bit left for the last bit).

The arete right of the first pitch of Eskimo Nell. Not a great choice of placements on the first half. Take a pink (0,5) Tricam (seriously) and Metolius 0. Start just left of the arete right of the initial crack of Eskimo Nell. Follow seams just left of arete (crux, fiddly gear or long stick-clip) to bolt and onto a narrow ledge. Move right to the arete and up arete into a broken area. Don't veer off but finish steeply up the arete. Rap anchor (not lower-off).

Not bad, seems hard for the grade. Start around R from Eskimo Nell in the gully. Jam and undercling the diagonal crack on the left wall of the gully and continue more easily to first belay of Eskimo Nell.

Start as for Eskimo Nell RHS.

1. 46m (13) Climb ENRHS then continue up ramp for some distance to belay below a corner, immediately right of the crack of Icecream Man.

2. 25m (-) Bridge undercut corner and follow line to the R side of the Oasis.

3. 46m (-) The initial chimney of EN pitch 4, traverse 7m R, then straight up over bulges.

The steep flakes up the middle of the short orange wall just R of Dunes pitch 2. Start at the first belay of Dunes.

The short steep arete 3m R of Scribble. Off ledge into short crack, up to PR, then steep jugs. Start at Dunes' first belay.

Go 8m R uphill from Kays Third Marriage. Take the hand crack through the short roof. Start at Dunes' first belay.

Go R under roof to juggy exit. Start on the ledge above Icecream Man.

Start and finish have poor pro. Straight up (was originally brushed very clean but may have grown back). Finish up shallow corner L of an orange nose.

Start: Start 10m L of 'Brontosaurus' at L end of ledge.

Up the middle of the wall to short blank corner, then up and L and short crack. Start under the middle of the grubby wall.

Walking off is very scenic and enjoyable, but if you want to rap off there are double rings a few metres right of the topout of Eskimo Nell, then another set on the northeast end of the Oasis ledge, and chains atop Drifting Sand. Rap 1 30m , rap 2 45m.

Start up high in Major Mitchell Gully, above the massive boulder, and opposite Brontosaurus (described under Dunes Buttress). May in fact be right up at the top of the gully on a small block when the gully is very narrow and further up than Brontosaurus (on opposite wall, but not directly opposite.) From the bottom left of the small wall, step up R then up the left hand line.

Start 1.5 metres right of Rocky. Up out to the RH arete, take this to the buckets, then go L and up seam to a block.

A sloping corner crack then jam through the overhang at the top. Start above Trench Warfare, under a little wall which faces Dunes Buttress and is on the same level as the start of Thunder Crack (which is described under the Bluff Major section). Easiest access is to rap in after getting to the top either by scrambling up the wall opposite Missing Link or by walking in from the Bluff lookout car park.

Plenty of angst here. Start 10m up L from Trench Warfare.

Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to thrutch leftwards up the long diagonal, starting with a tricky traverse in from the L, and finishing rather strenuously. Start towards the uphill end of the wall, although quite a way down from the massive boulder which blocks the gully.

The subtle weakness in frictional rock 20m up left from Deeply Techo. Lots of gear if you can hang out to place it; small wires are very handy. Start 20m up L from DT. Now has a rap anchor.

Some nice rock and climbing in the shade and close to camp. The ledge below the crux slab makes it advisable to break into two pitches. Start as for Firedance.

1. 23m 16 Up a couple of metres until able to move right onto the obvious traverse line which rapidly eases (make sure to protect the second ). After 10 or 12 metres of traversing right, move up right of a bushy crack and up grey wall (FH, tiny cams) to ledge below black slab.

2. 10m 19 Off block up centre of black slab. Travel light, 2 FH and a wire or two. 30m abseil.

Climb boldly to first bolt then traverse left to second bolt. Employ some inventive footwork to reach the alcove, a good rest and a nest of gear. Take a breath then move left and motor up on slopers to the top. Start as for Feral Chicken.

Climb warily to first ring bolt on good holds (or stick clip if you're from NSW or like your ankles). Move right a move and up to (often seeping) pocket. Continue upwards via bomber gear to a horizontal. Move up past perfect wire slot, then head left into corner past large scar and some tricky moves on slopes to finish. Start 3m L of L.

An unlikely sequence of good moves. After the original crux, continue straight up the wall to the anchors.

Fridge hugging. Start 2m R of FC.

Start under the chimney in the centre of the wall. Thrash up the steep flaring chimney, finishing right.

Good linkup of the start of Philanthropist into the finish of Slap Happy that avoids the desperately hard start of Slap Happy. Gear is pumpy to place on top wall.

3m up Lennox, then head diagonally R to ledge, 2m further R, then up flake. Take lots of cams. Start as for L.

As for Slap Happy (crux) to the ledge, then follow the bolts. Better than it looks and manages to stay out of Slap the Philanthropist. Start as for SH.

Short crack, bulge past bolt and gain the ledge near the R end of The Philanthropist's diagonal. Continue straight up the thin crack above the ledge. Start 2m R of L.

Up the slab L of Kincaid to a desperate slap for a jug. Finish L of Kincaid if you can be bothered (contrived). Just toproped off the chains.

Start a metre right of the rock step and follow initial couple of bolts through crux sequence to ledge, step left on ledge and up through proud rock. Small wires and small cams.