Routes in Victoria for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 2,373 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag
20 Brit Milah

High traverse that circumscribes the wall above 'Deck Games'. The original purpose of the 'mystery' bolt.

Start at the top of 'Deck Gully' at the obvious traverse line. There is gear that protects the step out to clip the bolt. Scamper along the traverse line clipping a bolt on Gordy's route till you get to the front of the block. up and belay.

FA: Mark Wood, Ben Storey & Steve Wilson, 9 Jul 2011

Mixed trad 12m, 2
19 R Slip Knot

Start 1m right of 'Sagittarian' and up poorly protected wall just right of the bolts.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Mike Law & Mike Stone, 1977

Trad 12m
20 Little Thor

The lovely right-facing flake corner bordering the left side of the great blankish north-west wall. It's a pity that it gets heavily top-roped.

Climb the right-facing corner with hard moves past the little roof then keep cranking up slightly left to the top. Gear has a habit of unzipping on people; consider placing a directional at the start and being generous with the draws.

FA: Ian Guild & Peter Smith, 1965

FFA: Ian Lewis & Joe Friend, 1974

Trad 12m
North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder
V1 V1 Problem (a)
Boulder 3m
V1 V1 Problem (b)
Boulder 4m
North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall
19 Sausage Of The Century

Bouldery start then L into the line.

Start at the vague line towards the L end of the wall.

FA: Jon Muir, Rod Young, Mike Law-Smith & Glenn Tempest, 1981

Trad 12m
20 The Wizard of Id

Steep jugs, crack, face. Start R of OB, just L of overhangs, beneath small flake on bulge.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Barnett, 1981

Trad 10m
20 Popeye

Past the alarming jammed blocks forming a roof, R and up weakness past ledge to top.

Start under the jammed blocks in the overhangs R of 'The Wizard Of Id'.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Barnett, 1981

Trad 20m
North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble
19 The Last In Line

The arete.

Start just R of 'Yakshini'.

FA: Martin Lama & Hanut Singh-Dodd, 1992

Trad 11m
North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall
20 Christian Crack

Excellent sustained climbing up the line with great pro. A borderline classic. There are two striking cracks on the wall on the left side of 'Colosseum Wall' - this is the left one.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966

FFA: Joe Friend, 1974

Trad 13m
19 Brutus

The corner then finish R.

Start 1m R of 'Tom Thumb'.

FA: Peter Martin, Rob Tymms & Mark Savage, 1990

Trad 20m
19 Roman Ite Domum

The wall right of 'Flavius Maximus'. This was also written up as 'Tribute To God' in the April 2009 Argus.

Over block to undercling, then straight up wall to top. Protection in crack on left of wall.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1996

Trad 10m
20 I've Got A Big Honker

The usual claim of those who don't...

Start 8m R of FM. To break (wire on left), then right to bulge.

FA: Sam Blainey & Andrew White, 1991

Trad 12m
North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Pimple
19 I've Been a Bunny

Lean R and clip the BR on the unknown bolted line. Then go straight up.

Start: Start R of MC at jugs.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Greg Pritchard, 1986

Mixed trad 12m, 1
North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls
20 Bermuda Triangle

The corner, then R around the roof.

Start: Start beneath the distinctive orange triangular roof towards the L end of the crag.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Barry Edwards, 1977

Trad 20m
19 Bridge of Thighs

Very contrived as it's much easier to use jugs just L.

Start: Start 5m R of T&Q.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Peter Watson & Rob Thompson, 1982

Trad 20m
20 Ddark Ddigit

Easy wall, orange rock, then L under overhangs to arete. Up it.

Start: Start 30m L of 'Light Fingered' (which is described on a separate page).

FA: Rod Young & Tim Chapman, 1981

Trad 40m
20 A Sore Thumb

Easily to pillar then flake up R. L below bulge and up seam.

Start: Start at obvious slender buttress between DD and 'Light Fingered'.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1988

Trad 40m
North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully Upper Hunger
20 The first six inches

Bridge up to gain flake and climb up to roof. Swing through roof.

Start: Start: Three metres right again is another flake.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith, 1999

Trad 20m
20 Voices in my head

Anyone who isn't paranoid lacks imagination. A technical onsight lead. Continue down the gully past a short step. Directly under the narrowest part of the gully there is a shallow black corner which leans right and runs up to a series of roofs and overhangs. Directly above the start of this route there is a thin crack through a large overhang. The line shown in the topo is a guess.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, James Falla. (Improved LHF by Jon Bassindale & Nikki Sutherland), 2000

Trad 21m
20 Gutless Gutless Bunny

Start: Continue down the wall from SSHSEBI5. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is a line (starting just left of the hole) that goes up past a large pocket.

Up line.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Richard Smith, 1999

Trad 15m
North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall
19 When Mark Was King

Bouldery start.

Start: Start on L side of Slander Wall.

FA: Brian Fish, 1982

Trad 12m
19 Chubby Like Chris

The nice thin crack on the arete, but don't reach L to make it easier!

Start: Start at the arete R of RT.

FA: Evelyn Lees & Brian Fish, 1982

Trad 12m
North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall
19 R Coke Adds Life

Head diagonally L (bold but not the crux), then the flake.

Alternatively, head diagonally right from the initial jug to a shallow groove which has some gear, then back left.

Start: Start R of S, 1m L of small tree.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Joe Lynch, 1981

Trad 12m
19 Candy-O

Face, around L side of block, wall above.

Start: Start 1m L of R.

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1982

Trad 15m
North West Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle
19 Cool Shades

Overhanging flake on L edge of cave, then short groove.

Start: Start L of CC.

FA: Nick White (solo), 1990

Trad 15m
20 Shakin' Stevens

Up to the top of the flake, R, up.

Start: Start 2m R of BC.

FA: Mike Law, Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1982

Trad 18m
North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress
19 A Cappella

Take horizontal weakness opposite 'Falsetto', then up.

Start: Start at the far left hand end of baby buttress at the back of the gully.

FA: unknown

Trad 15m
North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully
20 Pain Club

Bouldery start then up face to the spectators' gallery.

Start: Start opposite 'Cobwebs' and about 2m downhill.

FA: Mike Law & solo, 1981

Trad 10m
20 Boo

The grey wall.

Start: Start at the top of the gully on the R side, 30m L of 'Entangled'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Paul Hoskins, 1982

Trad 15m
North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Kryptonite Krack Area
20 So Help Me God

Short flake, orange wall, tend L then back R. Very poorly protected and not the best rock.

Start: Start 5m R of TS.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Dave Fearnley, 1982

Trad 10m
North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area
20 Pilot Error

More than popular One move wonder. Start: Start at far left hand end of ledge.

Pilot Error is graded as 20 in the Mentz & Tempest Arapiles Guide Book.

FA: Ian Anger, 1980

Mixed trad 12m, 1
20 Cul-De-Sac

Crack over roof of cave between Pilot Error and Tarzan, then chimney.

FA: Nick Reeves, Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Martin, Ed Neve & Rod Young, 1979

Trad 10m
19 Togrul Khan

Pull through verhanging corner to bomber locks in corner crack and continue up ramp to pedestal and juggy wall on left.

Start: Start just right of 'Tarzan'.

FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977

Trad 28m
19 Daily Planet RHV

From the top of the curving flake step right to cracks and up.

FA: Michael Woodrow, David Karla & Anthony Bishop, 1992

Trad 20m
North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall
20 Lex Luthor

Given a star by the last 2 guidebooks...which coincidentally were written by the two first ascentionists! It's ok but arguably not worth a star so we are "restoring the balance" here.

Start: Start at the base of the slim pillar at the back of the gully between 'Pilot Error' Ledge and 'Lois Lane Wall'.

  1. 12m (19) Boulder up into the thin crack on the front face of the pillar.

  2. 18m (19) Climb the fingery face on the R wall of the gully above the ledge, beware slightly fragile rock. Stay L of the arete up higher, to reach loweroff. Rap 15m down R to Debutantes' anchor and rap again from there.

FA: Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1991

Trad 40m, 2
20 Excuse me Lex

Link up of Excuse me while I belch into 2nd pitch of Lex Luthor. Do as one big pitch to get grade 20

Trad 32m
19 Excuse Me While I Belch

Bridge chimney for 8m then tricky face moves to join a wide L-facing flake/crack.

Start: Start as for E.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Nicky Sunderland, 1991

Trad 25m
North West Arapiles Atridae Cassandra Area
19 The Last Disco Dancer

Technically interesting climbing up the wall L of 'Cassandra'. Clip the first bolt on 'Cassandra' then veer L and up past three more bolts. The crux moves are pulling past the final bolt into a bottomless crack/pocket. A few slabby moves off L gains the ledge and the lower-off anchors.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 29 Jun 2015

Sport 18m, 4
20 R Permanent Wave

Start: Start in the gully at the base of the arete R of 'Cassandra'.

  1. 20m (20) Scary arete to Cassandra's anchor.

  2. 20m (20) Steeply up arete until you have to go a bit left. Where this is in relation to pitch 2 of 'Cassandra' (or if there is any difference) is anybody's guess.

FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1980

Trad 40m, 2
North West Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus
20 Tiresias

Start: Start beneath L side of the face at short slabby chimney.

  1. 20m (20) Easy chimney then more steeply straight upwards.

  2. 18m (20) 'Steep' crack to ledge. Walk off R to the 'Muldoon' rap anchor, or continue up the wall at the back of the terrace with a little roof at 4m.

FA: Mike Law & Mike Stone, 1977

Trad 38m, 2
North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area
20 Nanga Parbat Solo

Take the thin crack on the L arete. Scramble off.

Start: Start R of C at a little gully heading towards 'Agamemnon'.

FA: Mike Law & solo, 1982

Trad 10m
20 Wizard of lce

The diagonal elephant's butt crack, classic of the genre.

Start: Start just left of 'Agamemnon'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Mike Law, 1975

Trad 35m
19 Electra

Originally 18 - it's still solid at 19! The Pauligks' aid wasn't actually at the crux - theirs was an awesome effort for 1966.

The appealing crack on the L side of the beautiful orange front face of the buttress. Follow crack till it finishes then step R and up Careful of the rock up higher.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk (1 aid point on p1), 1966

FFA: (Bryden Allen), 1973

Trad 40m
19 Telemachus

Great sustained climbing with great protection the whole way. Start a few meters right of Electra.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Glenn Tempest, 1977

Trad 35m
North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Steel Delinquency Pinnacle
20 Steel Delinquency

Gain striking grey prow, veer R at the top.

Start: Start 8m L of SDV.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977

Trad 30m
North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Good and Evil Blocks
20 Vladivostok

Start at the small flake but step L and then up.

Start: Start 2m R of CS.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Richard Smith, 1995

Trad 15m
20 Stocktake

Straight up the flake.

Start: Start as for V.

FA: Richard Smith & Paul Hoskins, 1995

Trad 15m
20 Critical Realists Are Chastened Moderns

Start on the L to gain the diagonal.

Start: Start on the 3rd blocky pinnacle, opposite the 2nd pinnacle.

FA: Tim Day & Louise Shepherd, 1991

Trad 12m
20 Beyond Good and Evil

The face.

Start: Start 1m R of CRaCM.

FA: Tim Day, Nick Neagle & Craig Roberts, 1992

Trad 12m
North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Finger Prince Pinnacle
20 Stirling Moss

Up FP to the PR then R and up mossy streak.

Start: Start as for FP.

FA: Kevin lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 2000

Trad 25m
North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side
19 What Is Carborized?

Start 1m R of Private Detective. Go diagonally R, across Stentor pitch 3, and up arete. The Direct Start (18) starts 3m R of Stentor's 3rd pitch and goes straight up to the arete. Note the March 2004 route dubbed "Skin Flute" (14m 18) by Shaun Kratzer and Joshua Janes is almost certainly a repeat of this Direct Start.

FA: Jon Muir, Brigitte Muir (DS done by Louise Shepherd & Enga Lokey), 1994

Trad 18m
19 A Twist of Lemming

Start just L of Lemmington. The shallow groove, becoming very contrived to stay out of Lemmington.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1995

Trad 15m
19 Lemmington

Has steadily increased it's reputation over the years, and is now considered by some to be one of the best 19s at Arapiles. Start in the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, on the Piccolo side. Approach by going L around the back of D Minor Pinnacle. The logs and chain in the gully are for erosion control; they are not designed or to be used as belay anchors.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Matt Taylor, 1976

Trad 30m
North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle
20 Cadenza

Start at the left-leading diagonal crack.

Follow the diagonal left into the easy chimney on Cadenza Direct and up to the sloping ledge. Traverse right to a tricky exit.

FA: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie, 1965

FFA: Andrew Thomson, 1975

Trad 20m
20 Semi-Quaver

Fairly good climbing culminating in the left arete of 'D Minor'. The strenuous crux past the last bolt is a little contrived though.

Start: Start at a short diagonal finger crack 3m right of the 'Quaver' chimney.

  1. 20m (16) Up finger crack to ledge then diagonally left into 'Quaver'. Swing up left onto slab and FH and go straight up thin centre of slab to the first belay of 'D Minor'.

  2. 10m (20) Up arete left of 'D Minor' - clip the first bolt from up L then drop back down and climb the front of the arete direct.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman. 1990s., 1994

Mixed trad 30m, 2, 3
North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Diapason Pipe
19 Juvenile Speed

A short, hard avoidable crux set amid a lot of easy climbing.

Start: Start as for 'Keyboard'.

  1. 45m (12) Up 'Keyboard' until just above tree. Walk left and climb flake line just right of gully. Step left to belay on huge chockstone.

  2. 32m (19) Step back right and up steep line through rooflet and then easily up.

FA: John Stone & Richard Evans.., 1979

Trad 75m, 2
North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall
19 Wyrd

Funky climbing and route-finding. The moves up to the roof are committing.

Start: On the left side of the grey pedestal.

FA: Mike Law & Matt Taylor, 1976

Trad 50m
19 Tannin

Nice video (in two parts) can be found here:-

FA: Andrew Thomson & Dave Mudie, 1976

Trad 35m
20 Tannin Direct

Makes a good change.

FA: Jon Muir, Tony Dignan & Geoff Little., 1985

Trad 20m
19 F Sharp

This good crack system is the only surviving piece of a long-forgotten girdle traverse of the 'Organ Pipes'. Perhaps it would have had more credibility if it had started with a tyrolean from the top of the 'D Minor' Pinnacle.

The bolts on this need sorting out. They are all old carrots, many unneccessary and in the wrong places for free climbing.

Start: At a little corner below and right of 'The Wraith'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Tim Hancock.. Freed Chris Baxter, Kevin Lindorff & Mike Stone. May 1976., 1970

Trad 40m
North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall
20 Low Note

A worthless approach to what eventually became Jen's Roof.

Bridge up the gully left of Dirge then out right to short thin crack. From crack go right into Dirge and up this to roof on right. Hand-traverse right on the lip of the roof to FH and finish up Jen's Roof.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Chris Baxter., 1984

Trad 30m
North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Rabbit Boulder
V1 Over the eye
Boulder 2m
North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area
20 Star Search

Start: In the middle of the wall right of Blue Chev' is a thin line.

Up this.

FA: Hoskins, Pritchard & Smith, 1995

Trad 12m
19 Red Valiant Charger

Start: Start right of Starsearch, under where the half height ledge ends.

FA: Smith, Hoskins & Pritchard, 1995

Trad 12m
20 Doddle

Continue up the gully to below the middle of the righthand wall. The line in the middle of the wall, with a reachy finish.

FA: Robin Miller & Nyrie Dodd, 1982

Trad 10m
20 Piking Metre

Try not to pike right.

Start: Line 2m right of 'Cellulite'.

FA: H & L, 1995

Trad 8m
North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall
19 Nut Case

As for W but then follow the R crack to ledge. Step up R onto R wall, over roof into steep groove/crack.

Start: Start as for W.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & Ed Neve, 1974

Trad 22m
19 Running Scared

A traverse of Brick Wall. A strange concept that has been superseded by Brickeasy. Start as for Brick Dust

Up Brick Dust for one move, then r across Squeakeasy to easier traversing.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1975

Trad 20m
19 Quisling

Some people find this quite hard - but it's not 20!

Start 5m R of Squeakeasy.

Polished face to pedestal, L into the line which is quite steep over the bulge, then the corner. At 25m walk 5m L to Squeakeasy's rap anchor.

FFA: Joe Friend & Ian Lewis, 1974

FA: Chris Baxter & Peter Watling, 1974

Trad 30m
North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall
20 Beautiful Possibilities Direct Start

Boulder the start...

FA: Michael Woodrow, 1991

Trad 36m
19 Possibly Beautiful

If you enjoyed Golden Fleece, you want to do this too. A little bit more tricky.

Start 1m R of Golden Fleece.

Up the little pillar - or step into it after a move or two. Up the thin cracks to join GF at the ledge, then up and slightly right.

FA: John Smart & John Smoothy, 1979

Trad 28m
20 Mind Games

Start 6m right of Jason. Up past horizontal, then the groove, and head R after bulge. The hanging block at the end of the crux sounds pretty hollow.

FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1978

Trad 25m
19 Going to Sydney

The wall just right of Dylan.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1984

Trad 15m
20 Fish Doubt

The wall then the arete, starting around right of Anteus.

FA: Chris Baxter & Brian Fish, 1984

Trad 15m
North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dino Pillar
20 Dino

The line on the front of the pillar - no piking L or R. The pillar was first climbed via the crack at 16 in 1975.

Start: Start on the next slim pillar R of Stoat Wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & John Smart, 1978

Trad 13m
North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam
20 Bam Bam

Start: The R crack.

FA: Rolang Pauligk, 1968

FFA: Nic Taylor, 1975

Trad 12m
North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wuss Wall
20 Wussted

The curving corner.

Start: Start at the middle of the wall.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Paul Aubrey, 1980

Trad 9m
North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall
20 Ouah Con C'est Edlinger

The thin crack in the front face of the block.

Start: Start beneath the small block below 'Paladin'.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Ian Ravenscroft, 1983

Trad 10m
20 A Boy and His Dog

To ledge, then committing to gain the hanging corner on the arete just R of the top of 'Die Loaded'.

Start: Start at the top of DS.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Chris Baxter, 1985

Trad 15m
19 Murph Sports a Sparkler

Up the thin diagonal to a break then traverse off R. The DF goes straight up from the horizontal at the same grade.

Start: In the Gravy Train 'Gully' is a thin diagonal crack.

FA: Chris Baxter & Malcolm Matheson, 1983

Trad 15m
North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face
19 Black Dog

... gonna make you sweat, gonna make you groove.

Start just L of The Hard Ears.

Up over a bulge.

FA: Rod Young & Peter Watson, 1978

Trad 15m
19 Arethusa

With every ascent we'll throw in a free pump!

Start: Start in gully underneath the best part of the wall.

FA: Richard Smith, Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Trad 10m
North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Shattered Buttress
20 Glass Goblin

Yet to be determined whether it actually lives up to the impressive hype job, which goes like this: "That's the best move I've done in my life" - James. And: "This would be an OK route if it wasn't for the second pitch which makes it fantastic!"

Start: Start. Left of 'Shattered' there is a diagonal seam/crack (L-R). Right of this a thin crack allows runners. The crux is getting from the runners left and up into the line. It is possible to start to the left if you don't want any gear. As it is the upper part of the crack is a bit go-ey.

  1. 10m (20) Up to gear, step left and up into line then follow line up left, laybacking at will. When it's all over you can step left to a small stance on the arete.

  2. 15m (20) Climb the fantastic arete. Pull through first roof on left and then up to and through second roof. You can scramble off left from the top of the first pitch, or from below the final roof.

Later ascents have confirmed that they were on really excellent drugs. The climbing is rubbish.

FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Trad 25m, 2
20 Shattered

The R-leaning sickle.

Start: Start on the L side of the orange/red face.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1978

Trad 16m
19 R Crystalline

Poor pro. The flake then the fused corner, and L at roof.

Start: Start 3m R of AitDZ.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1978

Trad 15m
20 Delicacy

The thin crack.

Start: Start at the R end of the wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1978

Trad 8m
North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress
20 Electric Warrior

An excellent route with hard bits down low and up high.

Start below the major corner crack on the right hand side of the wall.

Move up to the seam to a tricky move, then enjoyable climbing follows to a solid finger crack at the top.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Joe Friend & John Chapman, 1976

Trad 30m
19 Up In My Bedroom

Up Righthand crack. Climb both to little roof. Step back into righthand crack to top.

Start: As you walk off the top of 'Mari Buttress' you pass under some large boulders. This route takes the twin cracks just up from the small climb down.

The hardest move is the first one. Up to the roof, step left onto the foothold and crank.

FA: Richard Smith & Jon Bassindale, 1999

Trad 10m
North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall
20 John's Corner Direct

From the corner of John's Corner, step left then head up wall past bolt. The best way to do the route.

Mixed trad 25m, 1
19 Change of Plans, Leg it!

Heading left around the pillar, up undercut corner on left side of Gelf icon then up face.

FA: Richard Smith & Jon Bassindale, 1999

Trad 10m
20 Entering the Gelf Zone

On the East face (the one facing camp), left of the Gelf icon and corner of CoPLI is a line through a bulge. Be warned about rock and gear.

FA: Hoskins & Pritchard, 1996

Trad 10m
North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls
20 Piece of Shit

Traverse L past F and up the 'Intransience' face (see the 'Cecilia Wall' area).

Start: Start as for F.

FA: Jon Muir & solo, 1985

Trad 35m
19 Frontispiece

Take the crack on the L side of the gully, finishing up the 'Intransience' face.

Start: Start at the far L end of 'Skyline Walls'.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 30m
19 R Trademark

The steep flake and shallow groove just R of the gully, with sparse microwires.

Start: Start just R of F.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979

Trad 20m
19 Bit Torrent

Start as for 'Copyright' and continue up crack direct to top half of 'Bootleg'.

FA: Wendy Eden, Anthony Pattison & Nic Kiraly, 2010

Trad 20m
19 Bootleg

Step across the gap and gain the large pockets. Climb past the 'thread' to jugs, then trend leftwards up the face to join the steep flake. Finish up this. Bit Torrent is better.

Start: Start just R of Copyright.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Rod Young & John Smoothy, 1979

Trad 20m
19 Hassan

Starts 2m right of Non Stop (as for Cuddly Fat) at faint corner. Up this to jugs, right slightly, then cut left up red scoop and through final roof. Belay available in cave.

FA: Rod Young, Kim Carrigan & John Smoothy, 1979

Trad 20m
North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
19 I Am Not A Pork Chop

Very nice, albeit short. A rare sport route at this grade at Araps. There is gear after the last bolt, but it's very easy.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 12 Dec 2015

Sport 15m, 4
20 Indecisivity

Slab, crack, then steep but somewhat contrived arête. Take some wires and mid size cams for the middle section.

FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 9 Jan 2016

Mixed trad 15m, 5

Showing 1 - 100 out of 2,373 routes.

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