Routes in Victoria for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 958 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall
26 Climber-Model Denialists

Mosey up to the cave via the L crack, launch out onto the lip jugs of 'Repo Man', then veer R and up on good but spaced holds past 2 FH's into the finish of 'Cricket Bats In A Box'

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2017

Mixed trad 20m, 2
North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag
25 Deck Games

Very appealing rock.

Start: Under the nice bulgy orange buttress closest to the road and start up the left leaning crack only to break right almost immediately.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Mixed trad 13m, 1
26 New Wave Winos

Start as for Saggitarian, head left under bulge and dyno up left through it past a carrot bolt hammered into a break like a piton. Yes, you read that correctly, and that's why I've attributed the route to Mike Law as surely noone else would have thought this was a great idea. I just TR'd it.

FA: Mike Law, 1983

Trad 15m
26 Hit the Deck

Originally climbed by Claw with a rest and named "Wild Drugs and Crazy Sex".

As for 'Look Sharp' to first bolt, then move left and up the wall past more bolts.

FA: Mike Law

FFA: Roland Foster, Philby & Eric Eastern Brown, 1984

Sport 18m, 4
North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder
V5 The Big E
Boulder 5m
North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall
26 Letting Go

The others noodled around for a few days cleaning up the easy stuff, then Moorhead produced this! Sustained, with a strenuous bouldery crux. In fact, two bouldery strenuous cruxes.

Start at short black flake 10m R of 'Hyperspace'. Flake to grey coloured RB, L to pockets (#4 friend), then R up flake to tough finish.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

Mixed trad 20m, 1
25 Failing New Romantic

The original start climbed a tree, which since fell down. Now there is a bolt and you need to batman the start.

Start at the next flake R of 'Letting Go'. Batman, then layback with difficulty up weakness past another bolt. Originally given 24 with a rumour it was hard for the grade.

An independent right hand start which goes free from the ground has been bolted, still a closed project.

FA: Steve Howden, Chris Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1982

Mixed trad 15m, 2
North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall
26 Fitzroy Street

Wall 5 metres left of 'Crucifixion'. Hopelessly contrived. You can sort of make an OK 21 out of it by zigzagging left and right.

FA: Martin Grullich, 1986

Sport 12m, 5
North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully
26 Motivated by Food

The seam.

Start: Start just R of 'Hunger'.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1989

Mixed trad 25m, 1
North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork
25 Lord of the Midgets

L on shallow flakes then up past 2 FHs. If you go straight up before the traverse it's only 20.

Start: Start R of MRS.

FA: Gavin Jensen & Wayne Jensen, 1989

Mixed trad 15m, 2
North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall
25 X Elmer Thud

Start beneath high ring bolt and follow right-trending overlaps to a diabolical crux level with the bolt. Turn your mind insane and follow the seam to its end, whereby a worrying reach out to crimps and a sidepull leads you to easier climbing above. Take small thin (0.5cm) slings to wrap around nubbins en-route and a large one for the jug further up. Make sure you don't fall off past the bolt!

Start: Start 2m R of R.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1989

Mixed trad 20m, 1
26 Sustained Metaphor

A classic piece of Mike Law funkness. Start left of 'Skydiver' beneath the bolt and try your best to get off the ground and reach the sanctuary of the seam above (crux). Once into the seam, continue up the obvious line (grade 23 this section) via technical face climbing and more bolts. Pull through the top bulge on slopers and finish easily.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

Trad 25m
25 Mixed Metaphor

VS to SM starting from the right past 2 FH's.

Mixed trad 25m, 4
North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress
26 Cry Baby

Up face via three bolts to anchor crux passing second bolt

FA: Muki Woods, 2006

Mixed trad 10m, 3
25 Nati Dwed
Trad 10m
North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area
25 I Dunno Direct Finish

I Dunno to level with the traverse back right into Daily Planet, arrange a nest of good gear then continue straight up via a reachy and exciting sequence (RP possible mid crux).

FA: 2014

North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall
26 R Heimweh

More proof that the Ewbank system doesn't need suffixes, prefixes or any other sort of fixes. Just read the damn description!

Start: Start as for Debutantes. Runout up L and traverse back R on layaways in horizontal weakness to join DaC. Finish up this.

Mixed trad 25m, 2
25 Debutantes and Centipedes

Trend R to arete past 3 RBs. Crux to break then tend leftwards past good trad to loweroff.

Start: Start L of the blunt arete.

FA: Mike Law & Mike Law-Smith, 1981

Mixed trad 25m, 3
25 Cambodia

The face with 2 bolts, involving two distinct boulder problems. Reachy start off two sidepulls then into slopers to a brief respite, then a cute micro crimp problem to the ledge. Easily up from there. Harder than some 26s.

Start: Start R of D&C.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1982

Mixed trad 20m, 2
25 Extension

The reachy face with a bolt.

Start: Start just R of LL.

FA: Mike Law & Mike Law-Smith, 1981

Mixed trad 25m, 1
North West Arapiles Atridae The Flight Deck
25 Have A Good Flight

Climb It'll Never Fly almost to arete, then cut back diagonally right and up to another bolt (exciting) then up to anchor.

Start: As for It'll Never Fly.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

Sport 18m, 6
26 R Celine and Julie Go Bolting

There is good small gear and a peg at the start of Plimsoll to get going. Traverses right past a bolt to a rest then up past a second to a runout section. Airy.

FA: Louise & Lincoln Shepherd, 1984

Mixed trad 15m, 2
North West Arapiles Atridae Muldoon Area
25 Fail Safe

Used to be desperate and dangerous with only a manky fixed sling for protection, and first you had to get to it. Recenty retroed by the FA so might become more popular. As for 'Muldoon' for 10m, then climb R arete of cave past 3 RB to lower-off.

Start: Start as for 'Muldoon'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Geoff Little, 1979

Mixed trad 10m, 3
North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area
26 Raven

No bridging onto the opposite wall! BR, fixed wire, and then the crack. You can add to the fun by finishing up 'Crows in the Snow'.

Start: Start between NPS and CitS.

FA: George Fieg & Dave Gray, 1992

Mixed trad 12m, 1
25 Gay Olympics

Thin face climbing and a dyno, nice! Originally given 26 with fewer bolts and no stick-clip.

Start: Start just right of the odd U bolts - use the stick clip!

FA: Mike Law & Ian Anger, 1983

Mixed trad 20m, 3
25 Golden Gaytime

Direct finish to 'Gay Olympics'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2006

Mixed trad 30m, 3
25 No Country for Old Men

An excellent birthday present from Glenn to Kevin; the best route on Collision Course wall. Climbs the wall between Collision Course and Female Friends. Take off a star if the bees return. Three bolts and some trad gear.

Start: Either climb the pillar immediately right of Collision Course, or climb the start of Collision Course itself (better) to the horizontal ledge at about 10m.

From the right edge of the ‘holes’ recessed there, reach up to clip the first ring bolt. Straight up past this and the second ring bolt above. Continue up until able to reach right to clip the third bolt (on Female Friends). Up to the anchors (double rings) above Collision Course.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest & Glenn Tempest, Sep 2016

Mixed trad 30m, 3
North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Finger Prince Pinnacle
25 Up, Up and Away

Cops an absolute bagging in Louise's guide.

Start: Start just right of 'Stirling Moss'. It's the bolted line, not clear how many bolts it actually has.

FA: Ant Prehn, 1986

Mixed trad 12m, 3
North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle
26 Iron Void Variant

A completely separate route despite the name!

Start right of Iron Void and up.

FA: Steve Monks

Trad 15m
25 The Flashing Blade

Short, soft and bolted - needless to say this one is popular.

Start: Start on the uphill side of the 'Iron Void' pinnacle.

FA: Nick White & Andy Pollitt, 1990

Mixed trad 25m, 5
North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle
25 WhiteTrash

Start: The start is not described...

  1. 20m (25) Take the RH crack through bulge, then move L after roof and up flake.

  2. 20m (-) Simple crack in the middle of the face.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead (alt), 1979

Trad 40m, 2
25 Rats Have Feelings Too

The incipient flake - take plenty of #1 RPs.

Start: Start 5m R of WT.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Ant Prehn, 1986

Trad 40m
North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle
25 The Philosopher Direct
Mixed trad 1
North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Rabbit Boulder
V5 Traverse the whole Bunny
North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area
26 So you think you can jamb

Just left of the wide left facing crack, Diet of Worms. Stick clip first bolt. Wide flaring crack (crux) then hand jam to sharp holds that lead slightly left and up, small wires available if needed. Take some slings for the bollards to the top.

FA: Muki Woods, Ingvar Lidman & Lachlan Hick

FA: muki woods & Hanz Fritzle, 2008

Mixed trad 20m, 4
North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall
25 Squealing

Start as for QDS.

Up QDS then take small flake up L, almost reaching 'Squeakeasy'. Up then traverse R into hanging crack on bulge and up this line.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Simon Parsons, 1981

Trad 30m
25 R Squeasing


Start as for QDS.

Climb QDS to where it joins Quisling. Step left and climb the seam to the right of Squealing aiming for the hanging nose. Gain this on its left then step right and finish straight up to mega jugs. Finish up Squealing or Squeakeasy.

FA: ingvar lidman, 2005

Trad 25m
North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Stoat Wall
25 X Small Wall

This squeezed-in face was toproped then soloed by Mudie, then retrobolted by others. The bolts were then removed so it is effectively a solo. Watch out for the loose looking blocks at the top Start: Start 1.5m L of TSSO.

FA: Dave Mudie, 2000

Mixed trad 8m, 2
North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall
26 Schnell

The short wall with a BR.

Start: Start just R of TJ.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Mixed trad 10m, 1
25 Life in the Fast Lane Direct Finish

Start as for Life in the Fast Lane.

Instead of traversing off left at the large pockets (as for the original route), move right a couple of moves and head up the orange face via an interesting sequence to the small roof. Bombproof gear in the pockets then a slight runout to the roof (and more gear) make this a tad exciting but generally quite safe.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985

Trad 25m
26 R Fully Loaded

A direct finish to 'Die Loaded' which is a tad serious to lead due to the runout above the top of the initial crack. Technically 25 according to the FA, however 26 based on seriousness is a more apt grade.

Start as for Die Loaded.

Climb Die Loaded to the top of the pod, then against your better judgement crimp your way directly towards the hanging seam. Finish straight up the obvious corner.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2007

Trad 36m
North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face
26 Dogbolter

Up past a bolt.

Start: Start just R of CC.

FA: Steve Monks, 1986

Mixed trad 10m, 1
North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Shattered Buttress
25 Alone in the Dead Zone

Quite good, but the bolt is crap. Don't lead it.

FA: Tim Ball & John Lattanzio, 1985

Mixed trad 15m, 1
North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Deep Freeze Wall
25 Deep Freeze

The leftwards diagonal. Not that well protected at the start, but a great little route.

It has been done starting in from the L, but it's harder and not as good.

Start: Start 2m L of the R arete of the wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Eddy Ozols, 1980

Trad 15m
North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress
26 Purgatory

Not very popular, but if you must do it approach by moving left from Megalomaniac next to the cliff. Do not bash in direct from the Central Gully track as this can create erosion.

Start below the sickle/crack of EA. Up past BR, take the bulge on the R, then more easily.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

Trad 25m
26 Polygap

As for M then left past two BR - middle contrived - continue to clip one more BR.

Start: Start as for 'Megalomaniac'.

FA: FRA Hoskins & Frost, 1994

Mixed trad 36m, 3
26 The Best of Hollywood

Arete left of Mari. Clip bolt from Mari then return to ledge to reach holds.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Geoff Weigand, 1984

Trad 20m
25 Dyslexia

Tiny steep crack. 'Best viewed as a B2 problem - the crux being a long dynamic off mean slopes to a small hold above a roof' - Carrigan.

Start: Start just L of the arete.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Peisker, 1979

Trad 10m
26 King of the Jungle

Climb the tree, and lean over to place a #3RP. Reverse to the ground and climb the arete.

Start: Start at the arete just R of D.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Trad 10m
North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall
25 Buddhist Economics

Reachy start past 2 BRs over bulge, then trend R. Tackle the roof 2m L of C at a weakness.

Start: Start just L of C.

FA: Parrish Robbins & Mike Fox, 1990

Mixed trad 25m, 2
26 Clap Hands

Crank up the line past PR to pedestal then roof, then L into shallow groove.

Start: Start 1.5m R of C.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

Trad 25m
25 Blind Ambition

Short crack past PR to ledge on I, and up I to jug. Now slightly L to join flake. L at break and then up.

Start: Start down R of I.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Geoff Little, 1982

Trad 30m
25 Girls on Bikes

Bulging crack then traverse L to ledge. Head L and up very faint groove over bulge into WoH. Now go diagonally L to finish up 'Cecilia'.

Start: Start 1.5m R of BA.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1981

Trad 40m
North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls
26 Fists of Fury

Bouldery, intense climbing on underclings left of 'Exodus lI' . Start on left side of wall beneath right-trending crack weakness, or alternatively 1m right of this. Boulder up to fixed wire in roof, surmount hanging 'slab' and undercling rightwards into easier territory. Basically a 10 move boulder problem. Bring your biceps.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1982

Trad 20m
26 Exodus lI

Well chalked line (marked in yellow) left of obvious left-trending crack (Copyright). Climbs like an overhung limestone power route. Boulder into the line and onwards via obvious double-undercling crux (and bolt) to a horizontal break on the left. Take a breath, then easier face climbing to the top.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

Mixed trad 20m, 1
26 Mass Exodus

Exodus 2.5 with the obvious finish - up Copyright. A brilliant undertaking in its own right, but lacking the contrived headwall finish of the original.

Start: As for 'Exodus 2.5'.

Trad 20m
V5 Outrageous Coincidences

L to R trav

V5 O.C's R to L
26 Copyright Direct

Takes the line immediately right of 'Exodus' II (white line) and left of large crack weakness (Copyright). Boulder start to underclings (common theme here), then left to gain base of thin crack, and up. A more sustained version of 'Exodus' II.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1983

Trad 20m
25 I'm a Mess

Climb the faint groove past bolt (FH) to gritty, grey roof. Traverse right across this on slopers to jugs, then up final headwall. Fiddly pro.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

Trad 15m
25 Tres Hard

Up faint groove to sharp pockets (FH), then stretch right into base of flared crack weakness and follow this to top. Powerful.

Start: Starts right of I'm A Mess.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 15m
25 Playing With A Different Sex

Starts 2m right of 'Tres Hard' and climbs seam/crack weakness to hanging slab. Join the dots up the slab, then up easier grey tower to finish. A high side runner in Tres Hard was the only gear in the first 3/4 of the route on the first ascent. Retrobolted with Roland's permission, 3 bolts plus trad gear.

FA: Roland Foster, 1982

Mixed trad 18m, 3
25 Non-Stop

Right of 'On High' are two large pockets on the lip of a roof. Up to pockets, then over bulge and up leftwards through more pockets to layback flake. Continue directly.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 20m
25 Cuddly Fat

Layback up vague corner then left across good holds to an obvious pocket. Reachy crux via a dubious hold, then left to the hollow jug and finish up crack weakness.

Start: Just right of Non Stop at slight corner.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Allan Wilkie, 1982

Trad 20m
26 Blast Off

Stick clip 1st rusty bolt (place back up wire just above it) then boulder strenuously up through initial bulge onto face. Try not to look at the state of the 2nd bolt as you make reachy moves past it. Gain lip of roof and stretch out right into cleaner rock. Ignore the old fixed RP. Belay possible on block above.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'Slip Slop Slap'.

FA: Wayne & Gavin Jensen, 1990

Mixed trad 16m, 2
25 Wastemaster

Located on small wall above Non Stop. Easily accessible from the summit. Climbs crimpy wall past two bolts and trad placements veering left near the top past a poor pocket.

FA: James Falla & Paul Hoskins, 1988

Mixed trad 10m, 2
26 Pull My Strings

Stick clip the bolt then up the wall.

Start: Start 7m R of W.

FA: James Falla & Paul Hoskins, 1988

Mixed trad 10m, 1
North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully The Torture Chamber
V5 5) Second thin seam

Lean back and lock your fingers into an amazing roof crack. Swing around and up from there.

V5 Left side of scoop

Sit start, climb up left side of the scoop and finish up as for "big dyno".

V5 7) classic traverse
North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress
26 Grimstone

Climb 'Reaper' to its crux. Step right at a prominent chalked jug and ooze up the unlikely seam past a FH to gain the upper traverse on 'Taste Sensation'. Step right again and climb the excellent face above passing a second FH to join 'Taste Sensation' at its final crack.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008

Trad 35m
25 Taste Sensation

From Reaper's 1st belay, head up 'Reaper' 2nd pitch to where it curves left, then traverse 2m right to below bolt. Pull over bulge and up crack to break. Traverse left along break, then up headwall past bolt, aiming for short crack.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Reaper'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Malcolm Matheson, 1981

Trad 65m
25 Taste Sensation Direct Finish

Taste Sensation to the big horizontal, then near the left end of this launch straight up into Grimstone's finish.

Trad 30m
26 Incest sensation direct

Best of the lot. Boldly up Incest to no hand rest to join taste sensation. At thr big break head directly up Grimstone.

Could be 27.

70m rope gets you to the boulder beneath Reaper.

Mixed trad 40m, 5
25 Incest

Back at ground level, 2m L of the weakness of Wild Oats. Head up then leftwards to 2 prominent bolts, then left across white marbled rock (crux) into hanging corner. Finish up this to the first belay of 'Reaper'.

Start: Start as for the LH option of 'Wild Oats'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Louise Shepherd, 1983

Trad 48m
26 Sisterly and Christally

Up I to the 2nd bolt, then directly upwards past a bolt and peg to roof (shared with 'Wild Reaper Connection' to the left). Step right and pull through bulge. Easier climbing leads to the top.

Start: Start as for 'Incest'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1991

Mixed trad 40m, 4
25 The Perfect Match

Back wall. A mini Slopin' Sleazin'? Unconventional moves up an interesting feature left of 'Jilted'. Start as for that route to its first BR, then head up to 2nd BR and left to the base of unlikely arete. Climb this to good pocket (BR), then continue past undercling to top. Note: Trad anchor now mandatory after some tosser stole the double ring anchor.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2008

Mixed trad 10m, 3
North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress
25 Ride Like the Wind Variant

Carrigans variant. Basically a totally different route to the original. From the good crimps just after the 2nd carrot bolt cut back left diagonally up the wall to wire placements and the last bit of Not Like a Hurricane.

FA: Kim Carrigan early 80s.

Mixed trad 20m, 2
25 R Ride Like the Wind

Moorhead had placed the first bolt but not been able to get through the next sequence. He talked Yosemite Stonemaster Mike Graham into rapping the line (which he did blindfolded!) - then he went for it on lead. The last half of the route was established onsight in an amazing effort. Micro crimping past two carrot bolts leads to the mental aspect of the route - which quite arguably is the crux. Big fall potential off virtually half height gear if you lose it at the top grade 23 slab move. Employ a good belayer.

FA: Mike Graham, 1980

Mixed trad 25m, 2
25 X Mr Fukuoka

PR, BR, R into 'Windsong' to small roof. Then L a bit and over bulge.

Start: Start R of RLtW.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Jeff Shrimpton & Phil Begg, 1990

Trad 25m
25 X Breezin'

Arguably 'Arapiles' boldest route. Technically easier than RLTW but as stated within Gordy's 330 of the Best Guide "a 20 metre fall is a distinct possibility". Given that this fall will have you penduluming into the base of 'Los Endos', it's also a lot more serious than the latter. A technical face climb with the main crux well protected, but which stores a nightmare sequence of intricate footwork and a last minute slab rockover just where you don't need it (the last 3 metres). Use extreme caution.

Start: Start as for 'Windsong'.

FA: Mike Graham, 1981

Trad 25m
26 X Redrum

Start as for Windsong but continue straight up instead of traversing right. Exit the Crux bulge above with small RP's for protection ( difficult to place on lead). The route then rejoins Windsong. Finish as for Breezin and Ride Like The Wind Direct Finish.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

Mixed trad 25m, 1
26 El Mega Pump

An unwitting retrobolt of the first section of GSTQ.

Start: Start as for GSTQ.

FA: Wayne Jensen, 1990

Mixed trad 35m, 5
North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully
26 R End of the Earth

Originally established at 25 by taking a breather on the half-height ledge on the opposite side of the gully!

To reach the start of the route, scramble up the wall opposite 'Dreadnought', to the big chockstone in the depths of the gully.

Up short corner, then to the arete past bolt, then up and left to thin crack, then through overhangs to bolt, before moving up into left-facing corner.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Chris Shepherd & Philby, 1991

FA: Done without stepping off by Dave Jones., 1998

Mixed trad 25m, 2
26 R Last Temptation Variant

The original version of 'Last Temptation'. Climb the short arete, then up to roof. Break right over the hanging slab and join 'Great Temptation' at its redpoint crux (also the point where the ledge is nearest). Finish as for that route.

FA: Stuart Wythe, 2000

Trad 25m
26 R Great Temptation

Access via the chockstone halfway up the grade 4 access wall - or from the top of 'Dreadnought'.

Hand traverse into the base of the very overhung crack. Up this, being careful of the opposite wall. A good belayer essential.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Trad 25m
26 Deliciously Deranged

Starts on the upper terrace above 'Dreadnought' pitch 1. Climbs the impossible looking overhung face to gain the crack weakness and hanging corner 3m right of 'Great Temptation'. Extremely hard dynamic start past a bolt leads to pockets up and right, then traverse back left into hanging corner to a rest. Onwards up the fantastic corner to top.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Mixed trad 25m, 2
25 Happy as Larry

Line of bolts 2 metres left of Dreadnaught, finishing by veering right that climb.

FA: Matthew Brooks. Mids, 1990

Mixed trad 18m, 4
25 Dreadnought Variant Variant

Start on the L of DV then cross it and finish on it's right.

Start: Start just L of DV.

FA: Jon Muir & solo, 1984

Trad 12m
26 Cecil B De Mille

Start as for 'Dreadnought Variant' but then stretch right to jugs, bolt and unique pillar pinch, finishing up and slightly left via a thin crux section. Powerful.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Mixed trad 20m, 1
26 Forced Entry

Start 1m left of 'No Exit' and boulder leftwards into line (FH). Hard moves lead up, then back right into 'No Exit'. Finish as for that route.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

Mixed trad 15m, 1
25 No Exit

Start: Start 10m R of 'Dreadnought'.

  1. 15m (25) Extremely bouldery face leads to crack finish. Beware of the name!

  2. 30m (23) Sensational. Thin corner, L on slab, up thin crack, then diagonally L. Rap off the top of 'Dreadnought' p2.

FA: Chris Peisker & Tony Dignan did p1, 1979

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff added p2, 1979

Mixed trad 65m, 2, 1
25 Stage Right

Unattractive crimps past 2 bolts to jug, then face with piton.

Start: Start 2m R of NE.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir (the independent start described was added by Martin Scheel)., 1984

Mixed trad 15m, 2
North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress
26 X Forbidden Fruit

The shenanigans on the first ascent suggest they were certainly consuming something forbidden...

Start: Start 2m L of Semi-detached.

  1. 25m (23) Up wall, traverse right to gain diagonal flake sytem and follow this to ledge. There is protection but it won't stop a groundfall from the crux.

  2. 20m (26) Scary face with fragile rock to crux past 2 bolts. Apparently you need double thumb sprags.

FA: James Falla, Dave Mudie (alt), Kieran Loughran, Richard Smith & late 80s, 1988

Mixed trad 55m, 2, 2
25 Soft Sell

The roof jam crack.

Start: Start under the small lump of rock with a flat top, up and R from the start of 'Sandpiper'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1981

Trad 15m
North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
26 Anxious Boys with Power Toys

Plenty of angst here.

Start: Start 10m up L from 'Trench Warfare'.

FA: Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge & David Jones + 1, 1993

Mixed trad 15m, 2
25 Feral Fee-box

Fridge hugging.

Start: Start 2m R of FC.

FA: Gordon Poultney & Chris Shepherd + 3, 1994

Mixed trad 12m, 3
25 Standing on Principles

Short groove with piton to join NS. Where NS goes L, step R and up seam.

Start: Start 2m R of NS.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Kim Carrigan, 1985

Trad 20m
25 Master Blaster

Just right of Stillborn, head up past pockets to intermittent crack. Written up as finishing L into the scrappy finish of 'Stillborn', or step R to finish up Morfyne (much better).

Note: The added bolts have been removed as there is good gear now with modern gear, (especially near the pin which should not be trusted by it's self), but can you hang on to place it. The High bolt on Morfyne should also be backed up.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Carole Bradley, 1980

Trad 28m
North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Ali's Area
26 The Dude Abides

Climb the funky roof to the left of 'Nursery Rhymes' crack passing 2 bolts. Join 'Nursery Rhymes' on the arete and follow this to where it moves right. Move left instead passing a third bolt to gain an enormous hanging jug and a cramped rest. For full value avoid the temptation to bridge out left. From the jug step back right and crank a short boulder past a final bolt before finishing straight up the delightful headwall above. Bring a full set of wires to supplement the bolts.

Start: 1m left of 'Nursery Rhymes'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010

Mixed trad 30m, 4

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