Routes in Victoria

The intermittent crack.

Start: Start in the centre of the wall.

Wonder why they didn't do them both in the same day?

Crack 1m R of Straw Dogs.

Up H then trickily R into corner/crack.

Start: Start as for H.

The crack with a hard start.

Start: Start on the R edge of the wall.

Yet to be determined whether it actually lives up to the impressive hype job, which goes like this: "That's the best move I've done in my life" - James. And: "This would be an OK route if it wasn't for the second pitch which makes it fantastic!"

Start: Start. Left of 'Shattered' there is a diagonal seam/crack (L-R). Right of this a thin crack allows runners. The crux is getting from the runners left and up into the line. It is possible to start to the left if you don't want any gear. As it is the upper part of the crack is a bit go-ey.

1. 10m (20) Up to gear, step left and up into line then follow line up left, laybacking at will. When it's all over you can step left to a small stance on the arete.

2. 15m (20) Climb the fantastic arete. Pull through first roof on left and then up to and through second roof. You can scramble off left from the top of the first pitch, or from below the final roof.

Later ascents have confirmed that they were on really excellent drugs. The climbing is rubbish.

The line up the L side of the buttress.

Start: Start in the gully on the LH side of the buttress.

The R-leaning sickle.

Start: Start on the L side of the orange/red face.

Quite good, but the bolt is crap. Don't lead it.

Poor pro. The flake then the fused corner, and L at roof.

Start: Start 3m R of AitDZ.

The thin crack.

Start: Start at the R end of the wall.

The first route in the world to have its own web-site!

Start: In the hanging gully at the back of the All 'Alone in the Dead Zone' (Shattered) buttress is an obvious corner. This might be the same gully as 'Dead End', but then again maybe it's not.

Up the corner, finishing slightly left

Is an anagram of Tim Taylor.

Start: At the right hand side of The Dead Zone Wall left of and below a big loose flake.

Pull up and onto flake. Yard on it and stand up on it. Enjoy the finish.

A smooth small wall facing north east approximately 70m up and right of Shattered Buttress. Climb to small sentry box. Take the right hand edge.

This climb is on the north east face of the buttress. Climb the middle of the face.

This climb is on the north -east face of the buttress. One metre to the right of Past & Present.

This climb is on the north face of the buttress Climb the right hand side of the face.

As for Z then up L onto flake and up.

Start: Start as for Z.

The crack up the front.

Start: Start at a small outcrop just L of the main 'Charity' Wall face.

The line starting just left of Charity

Up the crack.

Start: Start under the L crack on the main face.

Crack line between Charity and Mercy. Up crack over bulge. Protect top at flake and a big reach to the right will give you the bolt on mercy before finishing the slab.

Start just right of 'Charity' and after 1m join Great Pissing Ledges.

Much better now its retro bolted. Between 'Charity' and 'Hope' are 2 other cracks that stop at a small roof. Up the right hand of these cracks to roof, continue up through overlap and up slab with bolt.

Up Great Pissing Ledges stopping below small roof then step right into 'Hope'.

Bottomless crack 3m R of Charity at the R crack.

Up the slabs, and step L around the top overlap.

Start: Start between H & F.

Up the thin crack, with a small overhang halfway.

Start: Start 6m R of Hope.

The slabby arete just right of the big chimney left of 'Prudity'.

Up the intermittant flakes, mostly terrible sounding, and a sea of moss in the middle of the slab between Debauchery and Prudity. You probably don't need to climb it.

Up the L-facing corner.

Start: Start just R of a chimney which is on the R side of a mossy wall to the R of F.

The groove then directly over the bulge.

Start: Start at the next line R of P.

Ramble up the low angled buttress.

Start: Start at the next buttress R from T.

Diagonal crack.

Start: Start just R of P.

Climb the crack, step left on to face and up.

Start: Scramble up past 'Treachery' to next buttress.

Finishes further left than the original

Climb crack, step out right onto face. Climb through roof and up.

Start: Start as for Gabriel's Oboe.

Climb the face to small roof, traverse left and over the roof on good rock.

Start: Just right and up from 'Charity Buttress' is a small wall.

A separate buttress 10m right of Purity and approximately 7 metres left of Heatherbell. Climb face , using the crack at 8m for gear and holds. Up to large ledge at 12m, step right 1m to gain crack with gear for the crux move to summit.

A separate buttress 12m right of Purity, 3m right of Beguiled. Appears to be rib on left edge of buttress with a bit of orange on it. Climb the face then move to the arete, through the overhang and easily on.

Up low angled face 2m right of 'Dignity' to summit.

A separate buttress 15m right of Purity and 3m right of Clemency. Climb the most left hand line. (Most likely same buttress as Heatherbell ). A low angled climb with the crux being the first moves off the ground on grey rock. Requires RPs to protect the initial moves,

The RH line up the small orange buttress.

Start: Start 20m R of 'Treachery'.

Below Treachery is a buttress shaped like a shark's fin. Start on the orange rock facing into Central Gully. Up the diagonal crack to the arete then up.

Below Treachery is a buttress shaped like a shark's fin. Up the middle of the face, moving left of the small nose.

The line in the middle.

Start: Start in the middle of the small buttress uphill from 'Deep Freeze Wall'.

The weakness just L of a pedestal.

Start: Start 5m L of S.

Up to horizontal, left 1m, then reach to flake on bulge and up.

Start: Start 1m L of H.

Where strapping stumbled off left into easier ground, step right, past bolt and direct to the top. Enough spice to make you think.

The flared handcrack.

Start: Start 4m L of DF.

Face R of Handshake. At the second bolt (hard to clip) move L and into Handshake. The direct finish is an open project - maybe 30ish?

The leftwards diagonal. Not well protected at the start, but a great little route.

It can also be done starting up Deep Throat.

The vague line, needing small wires. Go R to arete at about half height, after which it eases substantially.

Start: Start 1m R of DF.

Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully track. Wall left of "Meanwhile…", on left end of the Mari cliff.

1. 20m Up the front of the clean wall, keeping left of the black moss streak.

Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully Track. Start 15m L of Megalomaniac. Go up below thick moss streak then step R to crack, up it briefly then up the buttress on the L staying out of the moss.

Not very popular, but if you must do it approach by moving left from Megalomaniac next to the cliff. Do not bash in direct from the Central Gully track as this can create erosion. Start below the sickle/crack of EA. Up past BR, take the bulge on the R, then more easily.

Start as for Megalomaniac. Up Megalomaniac a little, L to sickle crack, then over roof.

Links the middle section of Polygap into the top of Evans Above via the obvious higher traverse. Reach left from the stance on Megalomaniac to clip first and second bolts of Polygap then head up, verring slightly leftwards. Traverse left via tricky underclings and smears to join Evans Above where it steepens. Twin ropes and or long slings are handy.

As for M then left past two BR - middle contrived - continue to clip one more BR.

Worth 3 stars in some eyes, barely worth 2 to others! A classic hand crack with an annoying bulge at the start. When the crack opens into a chimney/gully at the top, continue following the crack veering left to find a belay stance and natural anchor.

Start up Megalomaniac then move right and follow weakness, gear is a little fiddly at times, but there is plenty of it to keep you happy.

Start R of Megalomaniac. Up unprotected blank wall (23) to join Power Crazy for 3m, then R on poor slopes to join a line through the bulge.

Arete left of Mari. Clip bolt from Mari then return to ledge to reach holds.

Quite classic and good fun. Climb the obvious corner on the left side of the wall. An awkward start then jamming to a little roof. A bit tricky but not too cruxy. Take care with gear in the glassy crack - cams have a habit of either skating out or walking in.

Initial moves poorly protected. Bring micro cams, RP's and also some large wires, a 7or8 can help if you're creative. Start 3m R of Mari. Thin flake then R into corner, then stay L of the gully. The RHF takes the groove on the R (21) for the last 10m.

Apparently this route had a peg, however that appears to have fallen out (the missing peg shouldn't stop you from getting on it though!). Take lots of #1 RPs. Often mossy, may need a brush. Start 2m R of Devoid. Finish up the gully, before traversing right to the chains of Electric Warrior.

Start R of Vacancy. Bouldery blankness into vegetated crack.

An excellent route with hard bits down low and up high. Start below the major crack on the right side of the wall, 2m L of the Droop Street arete. Move up to the seam to a tricky move, then enjoyable climbing follows to a solid finger crack at the top.

Sustained arete, ample gear but you need to be able to hang on to get it in. Start a few metres R of Electric Warrior. Step left into line then up and right at 10m.

Start 2m R of Droop Street. Short crack to a mantle, then easier wall.

Poor pro up wall with large scar at 10m. Start 2m R of F.

Wall with poor pro. Start 2m R of IPD.

The diagonal line. Start 4m R of CS.

Pumpy and scary. Wall to join flakes, then go 3m R and finish just L of D. Start 8m L of D.

Tiny steep crack. 'Best viewed as a B2 problem - the crux being a long dynamic off mean slopes to a small hold above a roof' - Carrigan. Start just L of the arete.

"Climb the tree, and lean over to place a #3RP. Reverse to the ground and climb the arete". The tree is long gone so you'll need to preplace the RP by other means. Start at the arete just R of D.

As you walk off the top of Mari Buttress you pass under some large boulders. This route takes the twin cracks just up from the small climb down. Up righthand crack. Climb both to little roof. Step back into righthand crack to top. The hardest move is the first one. Up to the roof, step left onto the foothold and crank.

Up to pin, step left then up headwall. Start in the gully right of UIMB, on the left wall.

At last - some truth in advertising! Start right of the gully right of Maman! Maman! This route takes a line up the left side of the rightmost boulder, on the face facing Central Gully. Up shallow groove to break. Swing boisterously out through roof to top.

See arapiles.net for a photo. Start at the front R arete of the block, R of DDT.

Up right side of big block on slabby terrace. Step right at bulge.

3m right of SS, Slab to weakness. Trend left up slabby rib and bulgy crack then juggy bulge.

Slab and bulge right of SG. Finish through centre of upper bulge.

Slab and bulge at right end of slabby terrace. Continue up yellow tinged corner.

Brushed bulge 2m right of MGR. Finish right of yellow corner.

This is probably what Noddy has written up as Marbles in Argus, but graded 11!. Start 4m left of Pure and Simple, just right of a flake sticking up out of the ground. Head straight up. Good gear and climbing the whole way.

Supposed to have a crack, but doesn't! 6m left of FOTR, 1m left of diagonal seam of Flying Foxes, behind a cherry ballart. Up wall, then vague juggy corner. Tricky down low. Was graded 8!

Diagonal seam that doesn't quite reach the ground left of FOTR. Bouldery start, diagonal then wall right of the corner of Pure and Simple.

Up the slab, going R and L a bit. Start just L of FotR.

From the block step L and up frictional slab. Start 10m L of the detached pillar, under a large block which is 1m up a grey wall.

The slab, scary up high. Start just R of FotR.

Small corner, past BR, to ledge, then continue. Start 2m R of SUYS.

The weakness to the break, traverse L through roof and over. Start just L of JC, off the top of the detached pillar.

Start off the top of the detached pillar. Climb the R-facing corner (or the much better steep jugs 3m R), then go R under lower roof. Over lip into short corner then ledge on L. Now traverse 8m L then up.

From the corner of John's Corner, step left then head up wall past bolt. The best way to do the route.

Up JC to it's top roof, then traverse R past old manky fixed gear, cams, and a runout, to join Cecilia. It's worse to second than to lead. Start as for JC.

Another traverse which needs a strong second. May have been somewhat sanitised by the later bolts of GftP and BE. A very noteworthy ascent for the era by a young Lindorff. Start as for JC.

1. 20m (22) Up JC for 6m then R along subtle traverse line, below SL, to flake. Step down R to pedestal on Cecilia.

2. 30m (22) R to flake, slightly up, then further R to join Frontispiece.

Start 3m R of Johns Corner at RB, face climb past two fixed hangers to reach the underclings at the roof, past another fixed hanger in the steepness. Lower off.

Reachy start past 2 RBs over bulge, then trend R. Tackle the roof 2m L of C at a weakness. Start just L of C.

Start off the detached pillar either by leaning across and climbing steeply up, or a committing, but significantly easier leap. Then follow the crackline up the leaning yellow wall, joining the R facing corner at the roof. 1 good FH, 3 manky carrot bolts (don't trust these). Bolted anchor at the top is back from the edge so if you want to lower off them you may trash your rope. It's also ok to step R to the GoB anchor and deal with a bit of sideways swinging.