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Wagstaffe Boulders

Access: Draft POM bans climbing

There's a new POM out for Bouddi NP, and it places a blanket ban on all rockclimbing within the park. Submissions are due by Sept 30th, 2019.

Details here:

https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/topics/parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/park-management/community-engagement/bouddi-national-park-draft-plan-of-management

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago

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Summary

Some good bouldering with a couple of great lines. Most problems might need a bit of a clean as no one ever goes here, but it really deserves a bit of action.

Description

Bouldering near The Box.

Useful Info: Guide kindly provided by Jason 'Pommy' Smith.

Access issues

If you heading out to this area please respect the privacy of the local residents. This area is within Bouddi National Park. Rangers have threatened to confiscate climbing gear from those using Lobster Cave and it best to keep a low profile.

Approach

Follow the approach to Lobster Cave. Just after you pass the house on the ridge and before the track plunges down to Lobster Cave take the R track up towards the rocks that can see at the top of the hill. Skirt around the L side of this rocky outcrop. After 40mts you will come to a 15metre high wall with 4 ring bolted routes. There is an alcove at the end of this wall and an attractive arête on the L side of the arête.

History

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The Monks brothers bouldered in 'The Top Cave' (primarily on what was to become 'Top Shelf') in the mid 1990s. Paul Riv scoped a few attractive line just before xmas 2017 and has added a few interesting bolted routes ranging from #18 - 26. A reasonable afternoon's climbing and an alternative if you are a mere human and finding the routes at Lobster a bit out of your league.

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