Psycho Ant Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 11




A fairly tall steepish wall, with a wide chimney on the left side, and a horizontal break at head height. Don't worry about the giant ants with big fangs that come leaping towards you across the mat, they just want to play. Described R to L.

© (pete_w)

Access issues inherited from Wagstaffe Boulders

If you heading out to this area please respect the privacy of the local residents. This area is within Bouddi National Park. Rangers have threatened to confiscate climbing gear from those using Lobster Cave and it best to keep a low profile.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Intense traverse across wall from L to R, finishing up Larks Tongue.

FA: Jason Smith, 2000

Makes a good problem into a classic. Sit start the crack right of the arête, throw up to the slopey break and then across left to the arête. Blast up.

FA: Jason Smith, 2000

The steep left hand arête. Start lowish on the slopey break and sidpull around the corner.

Prance up the arête to tricky topout.

FA: Jason Smith, 2000

Stand (jump?) start 2 m left of right arête, from large(ish) sidepull. 2 big moves to the top. Was going to be Lofty's pride and joy until he ripped of a good gaston hold on the first move. Sit start to come?

FA: Jason Piper, 2000

Start on right hand side of wall, staying off the arête. Straight up off progressively larger holds.

FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000

Sit start the arête and follow the left diagonal line.

FA: Jason Smith, 2000

Small roof/arête on the next wall left of the chimney. Slopey top out.

FA: Jason Piper, 2000

Start matched on crack then move up to gain good sloper then pogo to ripple sloper and follow line of slopers to top out.

Sit start matched on poor side pull moving up left then pouncing up to incut crimps that start 'Angry Ant Farm'


First time here? is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question


Check out what is happening in Psycho Ant Wall.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文