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Summary

This mountain is one of the great southern monoliths containing acres of granite and two distinct summits.

Description

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/guide-to-mount-roe-160506.pdf

Both the northern and southern summits have higherand lower cliffs separated by very distinct ramps and thelongest climb on the cliff ‘Roe Couloir’.

The climbing is not as abrasive as Franklin or Lindsay, but it is more exposed. There is great friction without loosing your tips. The climbing is typically sustained until it kicks back. When it eases off it’s really pleasant. You gain beautiful vistas over the forest. You can see the soaring eagles. The lines are all reasonably different.

Access issues inherited from Walpole

All climbing is located within National Parks

Approach

Access is easy and there are lots of slabs and walls. Some are edgy and totally different such as Awesome and Infamous. While there are only a limited number of places where you can start from the deck and access the cliff, there are extensive boulder fields waiting to be explored.

History

History timeline chart

It is suspected that Mount Roe was used by Air Observers during WWII as evidenced by the smoke canisters at the base camp fire place.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/mount-roe-another-chapter-in-the-dangerous-book-for-boya-boys/

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/mount-roe/

Routes

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Grade Route

A place you go to practice being the best person you can be. Start about 35 metres up from the end of the ramp on top of two small blocks. 7BR to DBB. Steeper than it looks but there are intermittent good holds and edges. Climb gingerly up right to FB then straight up on small edges and high steps with much friction work. Delicate move over the horizontal break, particularly if your heart is pumping. Steep fractioning up the final runnel. M. Rosser, J. Truscott 27 Dec 07

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/mount-roe-another-chapter-in-the-dangerous-book-for-boya-boys/

This route is a real ball tearer. Start at the base of the overhung crack just up from the end of the ramp. 6BR to DBB. Climb strongly up placing a1½ and then a 2½ Friend in the crack. Climb further up the crack again into the runnel with strong moves to clip the FB in the vertical runnel. Rock into the runnel with string moves. Surprisingly good friction in the runnel to gain the third bolt. Rising right traverse across the slab and wall above with really pleasant friction work. M. Rosser 27 Dec 07

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/mount-roe-another-chapter-in-the-dangerous-book-for-boya-boys/

A dance of seduction and rejection. 5BR to DBB.

(1) 7m 15. Start at the very end of the ramp. Hand and foot traverse right and surmount the large flake to belay on a BR and large Friends. Ignore the bolt below which is for the ground up ascent to come.

(2) 20m 19. Delicately up, smearing most of the way. M. Rosser, J. Truscott 28 Dec 07

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/mount-roe-another-chapter-in-the-dangerous-book-for-boya-boys/

pitch one 40m vertually non existant pro

start at left of base camp boulder at right trending crack and climb strait up past small shrub(ground fall danger i slung the small shrub for some phycolgical value) to belay on very big ledge on some small boulders at left end of upper face.

scramble to right end of upper face…

pitch 2 15m,grade 12

better pro up crack and pockets to traverse right to belay at small ledge with bouler on…

pitch 3 25m scramble to summit heading left along upper face ridge solo

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/mount-roe/

FA: Steve Bontes, 2003

Start as for JDPR and head up the RHS side of the bowl.

The series of pockets to the left of NPFGM.

It’s physical; you know that you have been climbing and it goes up with a well defined crux. It has all the elements of a great climb in a fantastic wilderness setting

(1) 35m 23. Start at the base of the vertical flake at the LHE of the slanting cave opposite the fireplace. Traverse right after the 3rd BR and delicately up to gain the powerful under cling just above the 5th BR; from where you reach up high to the right to gain a positive edge. 7BR and 2-3 larger wires to BB and 3½ Friend.

(2) 25m 15. Continue up with 3BR to belay on blocks.

(3)40m 23/24. To be continued up the North Summit.

M. Rosser, J. Truscott 27 Mar 05

natural pro. Up the crack starting overhung (crux) at wildcountry rock #6 and HB biner (left behind by accident i have been meening to go back for it but its a longwalk in)to more vertical rock and top out on top of boulder to rapp off karri tree close by.well protected.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/mount-roe/

FA: Steve Bontes, 2003

The left, back and right sides of the boulder

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