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North Face

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Description

From the walking track that leads to Belougery Spire from the Grand High Tops, walk round W side of Belougery Pinnacle, then continue down past the W Face and around the corner to the N Face. Routes are also described from right to left (facing cliff).

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

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Routes

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Grade Route

An excellent modern style trad route up a series of unlikely features through a steep, intricate and pumpy weakness. Very different more sporty climbing compared to most other rock on the spires.

Might be one star at present as it still has lots of loose rock on it after the first ascent. However, after a good clean on abseil or more ascents, it will offer solid and superb rock.

Protection is fiddly and intricate to place but entirely adequate with modern tactics. Long slings and double ropes are essential. Med RPs, full rack plus double cams up to BD/WildCountry(WC) No.1, critical micro cams (WC 0.1 to 0.2).

Led ground up by Simmo with 1 rest below the crux, after all the obvious foot and hand holds kept breaking off !

Shares the same start as More Than a Pretty Face and Meet Me At The Crux.

Start at ground level at a small right-leaning overlap about 80 m down the scree gully and overhung blocky wall that extends from Belougery Pinnacle. This is where the orange and grey stone on the left meets water-streaked black and white blocky stone under the lowest point of the Vee emerging from the first large vegetated ledge on the spire.

Breach the overlap going left through a small ledge where a grass tree (Xanthorrhoea) is growing (sneaky good 0.5 WC cam), with delicate and committing moves to pull into the bottom grooves of More Than a Pretty Face, med bomber RP and 0.75 WC higher up.

Begin an intricate right traverse across the black and white blocky water-streaked rock to gain a small corner below rooflet. Excellent but fiddly wires and micro cams. Treat all footers and hand holds with much caution until it gets more cleaned up.

Sort out more excellent but intricate wires and micro cams from the corner, then commit to the cryptic and pumpy crux through the rooflet, then trend back left over the pumpy bulge, bomber micro cam, to strenuously gain a finger crack and easier ground.

Re-compose and follow the line of least resistance trending slightly right up the divine and still thought-provoking, water-worn stone to the lowest part of the Vee of the large lower vegetated ledge. Good wires and med cams.

FA: Simmo & Rick Webb, Sep 2022

Another excellent contemporary style route added by Simm_o and Rick during 2022. Led onsight ground up. P1 Rick, P2 Simm_o.

Follows a series of funky grooves and cracks on the lower pitch to a steep bulging and exposed finger crack on the upper pitch with easier corners and face climbing to the top.

Double standard rack. Double ropes reccommended.

Currently marred by some appalling rock and dicey but easy moves at the beginning of pitch 2. However, after a further clean on abseil (and potentially but not necessarily a bolt), it will offer excellent climbing up a strong line.

Start as for 'More Than a Pretty Face' and 'Fan Tail'.

P1 grade 20, 25 m - After gaining the beginning of the grooves shared by 'More Than a Pretty Face', follow the first groove and crack up then step delicately right into a trench above and right (take care on some still loose rock). Good med cams and wires. More delicate moves to exit up and left out of the trench onto easier ground. Up to belay ( small/med cams and wires) on the right end (facing in) of an orange ledge next to the righthand of two small figs.

P2 grade 20, 40 m - From the belay move delicately along the (at present very loose blocky) ledge and balance up to place a decent high small wire just up and right of the second fig. Step back down off the ledge and gingerly but easily hand traverse left across precarious loose blocks and poor pro to the end of the ledge. More easy but dicey moves up to gain bomber gear in the start of the finger crack proper.

Follow the finger crack (crux) 8m through a series of exposed bulges and balancy moves with excellent small wires and cams, to pull over a final bulge to a rest.

Follow the easier well protected corners up until a rooflet caps the last corner.

Escape the roofs to the right by a committing step right onto the face (great small/med cams) then up another 20m over easier well protected ground trending slightly right to belay stances where the buttress rounds over into the large vegetated gully.

FA: Simmo & Rick Webb, Sep 2022

An appealing line with quality climbing. Start on the lower West Face (below the Halfway Ledge), about 2/3 way down the scree descent towards Pegasus and 60m right of that route.

  1. 25m Hand traverse left onto the brown wall, move up onto block and easily left 5m to crack (runners). Climb wall on right then up groove and right wall to ledge.

  2. 22m (crux) Traverse left over loose rock and up to shallow corner. Up past fig to belay below roof.

  3. 22m Continue up corner to roof and traverse left onto blocky wall. Straight up superb rock to where the cliff lays back.

  4. 50m Easily up the ridge to the halfway Ledge.

[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it].

FA: Ian Brown & Greg Croft, 1994

Goes up the north west buttress for about 150m to the terrace, then takes a line between the upper part of Scunge Gully and Vertigo.

Start: The first obvious entry to the cliff on the way down from the pinnacle to the start of Scunge Gully i.e. roughly 30 metres right of Scunge Gully.

  1. 21m Steeply leftwards up ramp below a red wall crowned by overhangs.

  2. 27m To top of ramp, then step left from the corner to outflank overhangs. 2 old pitons at belay.

  3. 33m Look out for the fixed bearing race! Up right hand wall of corner. Step right at about 9m to avoid overhangs. Up into groove which trends rightwards. Chockstone.

  4. 30m Good chockstone at the head of the groove, up right and over bulges. Then right to a detached block.

  5. 27m Left to shallow groove, thence easy ground to tree.

  6. 21m Avoid vegetated gully by steep slabs behind tree. Cross the terrace.

  7. 34m The fault line which starts midway between Vertigo and the upper half of Scunge Gully is followed steeply up right. Some loose rock before stepping left and up on good rock. To avoid the horror rock on this pitch, it is possible to traverse off right into Vertigo at about half height.

  8. 60m Another 12m leads to Tourist Traverse.

FA: David Witham & J Willis, 1967

If you want to do the Quality crux pitch of Caucasus Corner and skip the loose blocks above then this is the route for you. After Pitch 5 on the large green ledge walk 50m north to the join Pegasus's last two pitches.

1 14 45m
2 17 26m
3 13 36m
4 16 28m
5 14 21m
6 15 33m
7 15 24m
8 14 18m
9 14 24m
10 14 21m
11 14 21m
12 15 33m

Start about 30m right of Scunge Gully.

  1. 45m (14) Up for 9m, then diagonally left and up to the foot of a corner sloping steeply right.

  2. 26m (17) Up corner to bush then step left and up 5m to comfortable belay ledge

  3. 36m (13) Out left to the rib and up easily to the right hand base of the projecting buttress (the base of the corner). Somewhat loose.

  4. 28m (16) Traverse right and up steep wall to the right of corner. Belay on ledge above small layback.

  5. 21m (14) Up corner and finish through loose blocks. Scramble up to large green ledge. (First ascent party camped here!)

  6. 33m (15) Traverse left and slightly down (delicate) across the wall, across to foot of huge corner. Resist temptation to go high , although it looks like it is easier and has more pro you will be disappointed in both departments. The desperate looking wall offers lots of nice hidden protection and good incut holds.

  7. 24m (15) Up corner to belay on block under impending wall on left. (beneath rotten rock bridge)

  8. 18m (14) Out right, avoid loose blocks and up wall. The original route went to (peg) stance below an overhang on the right but this belay offers limited protection (other than the peg). A better alternative is to look for a belay to the left of the corner.

  9. 24m (14) Diagonally left (loose blocks) through the line of weakness across the face leading out to the arete. Good ledge on extreme edge. Peg belay 2m above.

  10. 21m (14) Round corner to left and past first groove. Up second groove to ledge.

  11. 21m (14) Up to right then from peg in small corner go up nose on left and into groove. Belay on a big ledge on the right, under small overhangs.

  12. 33m (15) Right and swing through overhangs. Left and up to peg, then on to summit.

When at top there is a 10m abseil into gully then one more short scramble/pitch to true summit.

FA: John Lawrence & David Witham, 1965

Where CC moves left out of the corner buckle up and blast straight up the line and overlaps above past 4(?) well spaced fixed hangers and trad. On an earlier attempt pre bolts the leader fell 30m to land largely unharmed (physically at least) on the slabs below the belayer. He then promptly gave up climbing! The other half of the party returned, placed minimal hardware and finished the job.

FA: Pat Spiers & Mark Rewi

Start midway between Scunge Gully and Caucasus Corner, below buttress.

  1. 40 m Up to slab at 15 m. Traverse R below steepening, then up to Caucasus Corner first belay.

  2. 25 m (crux) From below belay, move L to lip of undercut buttress, then up to base of orange crack. Now L, then steep wall. A glorious pitch.

  3. 35 m Buttress to Caucasus Corner third belay.

  4. 15 m Shattered groove to tree and ledge on L of prow.

  5. 30 m Wall on L of prow starting near arete, the middle of face. Poor pro. Take small cams.

[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it].

FA: Ian Brown & Greg Croft, 1993

One of the longest climbs in the 'Bungles. A good deal harder if the final chimney can't be squeezed! Start: Above the scunge (in the centre) of the north face, up scrubby gully, to chimney leading right.

  1. 12m Up to large Moreton Bay figs.

  2. 33m Delicate, then up through scrub.

  3. 15m Right towards rib, can stop in corner.

  4. 24m To large platform. Belay on rib.

  5. 9m Up left to peg.

  6. 24m Continue up to tree.

  7. 18m Long stretch to the gully and up (?).

  8. 24m Up, some rotten rock.

  9. 27m One comes to a bush!!

  10. 24m To the conspicuous chimney.

  11. 24m To a good chockstone.

  12. 15m Up chimney (13) or outside it (15), more exposed over rotten rock to stance.

  13. 27m Up, then easily to right.

  14. 24m Pleasant little walls.

  15. 21m Pleasant Sunday strolling!!

FA: Bryden Allen † & Ted Batty, 1963

Pleasant and varied.

  1. 50 m Start up Scunge Gully for 20 m, than buttress on L.

  2. 40 m Buttress and chimney-gully on R.

  3. 25 m (crux) Chimney to orange alcove. Take L-most line to buttress, then up to small ledge.

  4. 30 m Buttress and loose crack to base of orange headwall.

  5. 20 m Traverse 6 m L, then up orange groove to bottom of chimney. Loose.

  6. 28 m Chimney.

  7. 40 m Move R to buttress. Cracks to piton.

  8. 40 m As for Caucasus Corner.

[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it].

FA: Ian Brown & Greg Croft, 1993

Rattles around a bit but eventually gets there. Starts as for Scunge Gully and finishes on Out and Beyond.

  1. 35m Up to scunge then leftwards up buttress as for Napawi. Belay at sprawling fig.

  2. 50m Continue up buttress for about 15m then leftwards on a rising traverse across brown wall. The objective is to get past the overhanging orange headwall above. The last 10m go straight up and straight left to semi hanging belay in crack (this is the top of the huge orange gash left of Scunge Gully, with white bird marks just below the belay).

  3. 40m Traverse left into chimney. When it closes down, traverse left into another chimney. Up to top, step left and up to bushy ledge.

  4. 50m Move up small buttress on left then back right above overhang. Climb bushy groove or cleaner buttress to big scrubby ledge. Straight up behind ledge to belay on brown blocky wall.

  5. 40m Up left to short chimney. Up to top then up trending left to two old pitons (6th belay of Out and Beyond).

6-7) 80m As for Out and Beyond. Rising traverse up right towards wide corner, back left to pitons on ledge below left end of overhang, traverse left below overhang into groove and up.

[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it].

FA: Greg Croft & Ian Brown, 1994

Magnificent. Start at the lowest point of the face, under prominent pinnacle. Easy slabs lead up 60m to a prominent pinnacle.

  1. 24m Climb onto the "bridge" between the pinnacle and the face via a short wall R.H. corner south of the pinnacle - vicious fight with scrub at top. N.B. This pitch may be avoided by a long traverse along a scrubby ledge, higher up from the left.

  2. 36m Most novel! From top of pinnacle, carefully bridge the 2m gap to face short wall, then a long delicate, exposed traverse to the right to a large broken boulder.

  3. 30m Upwards.

  4. 30m Right, then up through scrub.

  5. 30m General scrub-bash, or else rock to the left.

  6. 30m Magnificent rock wall to right of L.H. corner system. (See direct finish)

  7. 9m Traverse right and up delicately, to stance.

  8. 30m Traverse right, back up left to airy belay beneath overhang.

  9. 30m Cunningly avoid overhang by rightward traverse above corner. Easier to top.

[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it].

FA: Bryden Allen † & Ted Batty, 1962

The corner system on Out and Beyond, pitch six.

6a) 27 m Crack-corner.

7a) 48 m The line.

FA: Paul Caffyn & Rick White, 1969

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