Routes in Watagans for selected grade

Start at the the short crack below the western arete of the main buttress. Climb the short crack then up the blunt arete past a bolt to a bolt belay in the cave. Traverse 10m right to a difficult move to a large ledge and tree, bolt belay well back.

Climb the crack and chimney system 10m right of Heart failure past a peg to a bolt belay.

The slab 4m right of Flip Side.

The obvious corner with a tree root at half height. Named after a repeat ascent by David Pickles.

Follow 'Fragile' but traverse to the arete, where chimneying between the arete and tree allows progress to continue.

At the Five Finger Exercise traverse, move left to a ramp system, which is followed to rejoin FFE.

Start at the right hand end of the triangular cave, climbing the wall right of the crack to meet the break (traverse line) 2/3 of the way up. Move right to the arete and continue airily to a tree belay, or anchors above strapidectomy. Now several bolts on other routes can be used and you won’t feel so Buzzed out.

The right hand line of the square cut groove.

The chimney / corner right of Drop the Pilot. In 2017 someone retro bolted this route, on expansion bolts. The hangers have been removed. Do Not Retrobolt. This route has been led by many scouts over the years and does not need bolts. Expansion bolts should never be used in Watagans sandstone for climbing.

Ascends the seam, a metre or so right of Marmalade, then takes the obvious crack /corner finish straight up to DBB on top of Asparagus.

Flake and crack system 3m right of Static Dynamic, to DBB.

Start beneath the orange scoop just left of Kabolos. Climb the groove till a move left brings an airy mantle onto a prominent ledge on the arete. Walk or scramble off.

Start 6m left of Trash at a prominent crack in the broken wall. Wind your way up the centre of the wall to finish on the arete.

This is the low angled ramp/corner system that forms the left boundary of the Sunset Strip wall. Climb the crack systems past a large tree.

Start 15m right of 'Fall-ding' at the left hand crack of the square cut groove. Climb the corner / handcrack to finish at a tree on the left.

Start 80m right of One Armed Bandit at a steep block jammed in the square cut groove. Up to a prominent tree.

Start 8m right of Mouse House at an overhung square cut but sandy corner. Climb the corner.

Climb the giant flake to the left of Ancient Remnant Direct, passing 2 very old bolts (protruding ~3") that should not be trusted (take big cams). Now possible to lower off the "Nads" double ring anchors.

Corner and crack system, marked with white square and grade (NBC '80s style, though could be more recent)

Hand to finger crack, on slabby wall, 50m east of Pinnacle. either finish straight up broken ground (choss), step left to finish up the final bolts of "Malmo" at grade 16. or move right to finish at the access keyhole.