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Summary

Good variety of short routes close to Melbourne

Description

A warm up walk in leads to a good mix of short to medium routes on conglomerate rock with some sport climbing from mid-grade up. Falcon's Lookout (the only open climbing area) is serviced by a generous number of belay posts which negate the need to use trees as anchor points - hopefully preventing further erosion. Bring a setup rope or similar if intending to toprope.

Choss at the top so remember to wear your helmet and call 'rock' when knocking down a shower of muddy pebbles on your belayer after topping out. Does catch the sun in the morning so pick your days.

Easy access to routes. The walk in lands you at the top of the climbs with stairs at the L end of the crag. Jump on the popular 'Big Ears' or put your gym training to the test on the world famous 'Redex Irlont Sudano'. And just remember, it's not in Werribee..

Access issues

State park

Parks Victoria advises that 'Falcons Lookout' is currently the only area open for climbing.

Approach

Take the Western Highway out of Melbourne. Take the first exit into Bacchus Marsh. Go into Bacchus Marsh, turn L into Grant St (just before the hill). Go straight ahead for about 1km, crossing the river and then turning R into Griffith St at the roundabout just before the railway crossing. Go about 2km then veer R into McCormack Road at the golf course. Cross the railway line then turn hard R into Ironbark Rd.

To get to 'Falcons Lookout' follow Ironbark Rd for 6km to a parking area on the R after you cross the railway again, but before you go under the railway bridge. A Parks Victoria information sign marks the beginning of the walking track. Follow track through Ironbark Gorge to Falcons Lookout (Sign posted 40 minute walk, actual time = 25 min.).

Ethic

Visitors are encouraged to use this area responsibly and to adopt safe practices during all climbing and aseiling activities. The use of safety equipment, including helmets, is recommended.

Please keep to the tracks, observe access agreements, remove all rubbish, and climb safely.

History

History timeline chart

Werribee Gorge's potential for rockclimbing was noticed by Keith Lockwood in 1970. His enthusiasm for the cliff's strong architecture was tempered by access difficulties but later visits by Norm Booth revealed easier access, allowing visitors to quickly develop 'Falcons Lookout' (the Ampitheatre).

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Closed Daintrees Cliff crag
7
2
21m
Closed Pyramid Rock crag
12
22
28m
Closed The North Side crag
22
9
30m
Closed Junction Hole crag
5
0
16m

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