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Description

A good collection of climbs that vary in styles and grades. One of the better areas at west cape howe with a large concentration of quality routes.

Access issues

Don't even bother trying to access these walls from the base. It is generally wet down low, covered in barnacles and the bottom ledge is prone to waves.

Approach

Follow the trail that leads to claws wall further east, (at the top of the cliff) following rock cairns and staying well back from the edge. Tread carefully as there is a dog leg in the track that goes slightly uphill and through the bush, eventually leading to a boulder capping the top of Beggars wall. There are two abseil stations. One is on the right, above yellow peril (requires bolt plates) and gives access to critical mass, lab rat and show pony, as well as convicts corner and yellow peril. The other is bolted with fixed hangers and is 20m further east. Take a short static (20m or so) to rap down to a large vegetated ledge system. Walk east to access thieves wall, fingerlox and sexy buttress or west to get to the south side of beggars wall. Two more bolted rap stations give access to the upper ledge and lower ledge routes on this wall and require bolt plates. Be careful approaching these.

Ethic inherited from West Cape Howe

There is no established ethic. The usual WA ethics towards bolting apply, and all bolts should be placed with careful consideration, and definitely not used to replace natural pro.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Abseil down the slab which is roughly halfway along the main south face of convicts corner. Check access topo to locate this rap station (requires bolt plates). Starts in an obvious alcove and climbs the face of the large flake before stepping right and continuing up the slab above. Gear and a few bolts (bolt plates required).

FA: J. Herlihy & K. Hartley, 2020

Excellent arete climbing in an exposed position. Abseil further down the slab than the previous route to a semi-hanging belay (bolt plates required). Climb the short corner then step right towards the arete. Climb the sustained thin crack and slab up the edge of the huge wall. As the climbing eases, step left and follow the bolts up the slab to the top. Take a standard rack with rp's, micro cams, and bolt plates.

FA: R. Master & K. Seewraj, Dec 2020

An undeniable West Cape Howe mega-classic. Solid and sustained climbing up an intimidating wall. Two traverses, two roofs and multiple cruxes make it a memorable and exposed outing. Take a full rack up to no.3 camalot, some long draws and a few extra small cams around .3/.4. Abseil 30m down the huge corner system from the top of Beggars wall to belay at the two eybolts on the slab. Step up and onto the face from the belay and traverse left along the rail past three ringbolts to the flake. Up this to the first roof. Bouldery moves up and right to the ledge above then a delicate rightwards traverse passing another bolt to good holds. Up the sustained face trending left following the curving cracks. Take a rest before the final roof, sink a bomber handjam then stretch and squeeze your way up the face and arete to finish at the ledge and a double bolted belay.

FA: K. Hartley & K. Seewraj, Dec 2020

Abseil 50m down the south side of the huge flake (yellow peril) from the top of Beggars wall. There is a rap station on the edge of the boulder with the small cave (bolt plates required). The route starts about 15m or so up from the base of the cliff at a double bolted belay. Step left onto the flake at the fixed hanger and climb the edge of the flake up the slab following the thin cracks. At the top of the flake step right and follow the fixed hangers through the steepening headwall with a couple of mid-sized cams along the way. Up through under-clings to the horizontal break then traverse left a couple of metres to a vertical crack. Follow the crack for a few metres then climb the slab past another bolt. Very small wires and micro cams required. Take plenty of draws.

FA: K. Hartley & J. Herlihy, Nov 2020

A great long pitch up the face to the right of the yellow peril flake. Starts at the same belay as showpony following br's up the steepening slab (bolt plates required). Take gear for the horizontal cracks and after it gets steep, trend-right to a trad belay on the ledge below the huge roof.

FA: L. Grieve & J. Herlihy, 2017

The following routes are reached by abseiling from the two hex bolts accessed from the large vegetated ledge system. The climb starts from the lower ledge on the main face at a natural belay. Climb up and leftwards along the enjoyable hand crack until at the thin crack/seam. Up past a ringbolt to the steepening headwall. Balance up through the horizontal cracks to a thin section and another bolt. Up the short flared groove to finish at a trad belay on the ledge below the large roof.

FA: J. Herlihy & J. Nevin, 2020

Starts from the lower ledge. Step left and climb up past two ringbolts to a blank section. Run it out up to the vertical crack, then finish straight up the face.

FA: J. Nevin, 2020

An enjoyable, well-protected route on great rock. Starts from the upper ledge at a double bolted belay (requires bolt plates). Climb up and left from the belay, through the roof then straight up the face above. Gear and a few bolts (require bolt plates).

FA: J. Herlihy, 2015

Climb the thin face past three bolts just right of the belay to a tricky move before the horizontal break. Finish up the hand crack and wall above.

FA: R. Master, 2015

Starts at the south side of the upper ledge. Traverse right past a bolt to gain the arete. Up this to finish up the scaly face. Great rock and a nice position. Take gear and bolt plates.

FA: J. Herlihy, 2015

Abseil to the horizontal crack/ledge at the base of the right trending seam 10m to the left of the Xanthe. This is the narrow wall on the south side of the main slab. You will need a full rack of micro to medium cams and bolt plates. Set up a belay using the bolt and the horizontal crack. Head straight up the sustained wall to the first bolt staying to the right of the seam. Continue on rounded holds towards the second bolt on exposed steep rock (crux). A third bolt is passed before a horizontal break and broken crack system is reached providing the first real relief, small cams can be used here (1-2). Head up the broken crack through a large under cling to the base of the concave wall with good edges topping out at the abseil bolts at the top of the wall.

FA: R. Master, 2015

At the right of the slab is a narrow South facing wall. The climb starts on a narrow ledge directly below the hand jam crack. Move past the bolt to the arete and the crack above. Gear and bolt plates required.

FA: J. Nevin, 2014

The first route on Theives Wall. Access is via a short abseil from the fixed hangers at the top of the crag down to the large vegetated ledge system, then walk east for 30m or so. Climb the hand crack which starts off a tad wide, through a bulge then continue up and leftward along the curving crack to a lower-off. A good hand jamming test piece. Steeper than it looks.

FA: K. Hartley & A. Separovic, Dec 2020

Classic line up the slab following the thin cracks. Clip the bolt after the horizontal break and trend right to the arete. Up the short slab to finish at a lower-off. Take small/medium gear and bolt plates.

FA: J. Herlihy & L. Grieve, 2015

Same as the previous route but instead of stepping right to the arete, clip the bolt and climb straight up the thin slab to the top.

FA: K. Seewraj & K. Hartley, 2019

Abseil to the small ledge at the base of a hand crack 15m below a large ledge Pitch 1, 15m grade 15 Belay in the crack with large cams. Climb the hand crack for 15m up to a large ledge. Medium to large cams for the belay Pitch 2, 30m grade 20 Climb up the vertical wall up horizontal breaks (medium to large cams) towards the first bolt runner. Climb diagonally right towards the arête (crux). Climb the thin corner crack, smearing and bridging on small flakes and features protected by micro cams and wires. Climb past the bolt runner and up into a crack to the base of the final finishing slab to the lower-off above fingerlox.

FA: R. Master, 2015

Set up an anchor at the base of Theives Wall and abseil down over the huge chockstone to the large ledge below. The route starts at the obvious curving crack at the base of the south facing wall. Climb the handcrack up and through a slight bulge. Traverse left at the roof to a natural belay on med/large cams and either walk off left or continue up Fear Effect (recommended).

FA: A. Separovic & K. Hartley, Nov 2020

An excellent multipitch route. Climb Too Sexy and traverse left to belay on med/large gear in the corner below the second pitch of Fear Effect. Climb FE and finish at the lower-off above Fingerlox..

FA: K. Hartley & A. Separovic, 2020

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