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Description

Houses gems such as Face of Madness (V6), and the impressive Bulbasaur boulder/cave formation

Access issues inherited from Dreaming Frog

These boulders are on private land and we climb here only under the good graces of the land owner. As such please be respectful to the below access issues. Land owner is Steve Raynor who can be contacted on 9642 4007.

Call after 7pm to give at least 24 hours notice before climbing. If you cant get through just leave a message saying who you are, what your best contact number is, when you're looking at climbing and how many of you there are.

Calling ahead is for climbers’ benefit. This is also a working farm, so there is also no climbing in extreme heat or in the case of fire ban. A motorbike trial riding club and shooting club also use the land, so when they’re occasionally there climbers won’t be allowed for obvious reasons. If you fail to clear camping or climbing here with Steve ahead of your visit, you may get shot by stray hunting rifles!

Parking on the the clear ground among the rocks is preferred. Parking on the roadside not allowed as large trucks use the road, and when two pass each way they will have to go off the road to get past. Access to the rocks is via the gate on the east side of the road just before you get to the boulders from the Brookton Highway turn off.

Park only on the bare ground, parking on or near grasses is to be avoided avoided due to fire risk in warmer months. Make sure gate is closed at all times, as sheep graze in this paddock.

As always, leave no trace in terms of rubbish and waste.

Approach

The first cluster of boulders after you drive in. Separated from the Hundred Acre Wood Sector by a cluster of trees

Ethic inherited from Dreaming Frog

Bolting is to be kept to a minimum, no retro-bolting or drilling/chipping holds.

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start at the base of the obvious crack.

FA: Gwyn Hughes, 1 Mar 2016

Sit start and follow crack line up before top out

FA: Peter Zhang, 30 Jul 2017

Start on undercling rail and up.

FA: Peter Zhang, 30 Jul 2017

Start low and right on the crimps, follow the crack up left on non-existent feet and top out.

Match start on the low left ledge, work up the Arete to top out.

Fun slab. Airy due the rock dropping away underneath you. Good flat landing though.

FA: Marc, 20 May 2017

FA: Marc, 30 Apr 2017

Sit start on the bottom left jug/ledge and move up, entire face is in including both left and right arete. Tricky top out.

FA: Catpass Clanky, 22 Apr 2017

Sit start same lower left flake, move straight up and along top rail crimps. Avoid standing "Escape from Kyln", instead use smears as you work along the crimps to top out.

FA: Ian, 30 Apr 2017

Sit start on the lower left jug. Follow rail up to the right and top out through the center of the boulder.

Do this first as it's also the downclimb for all other routes on the block.

FA: Catpass Clanky, 22 Apr 2017

Sit start on low crimp, move through sequence of crimps on good feet then move left to the tooth on to top out.

FA: Catpass Clanky, 22 Apr 2017

Compression start on opposing jugs, bad feet to two bad crimps, definite crux move to side pull/gaston. https://youtu.be/osVgmG8ia-Y

Set: Catpass Clanky

FA: Robin Fletcher, 1 Jul 2017

On the big rock behind you when looking at the "the face of madness" . Start low on slopers with obvious far left heel and traverse left to the slab top out. Cool features.

FA: 1 Jul 2020

Stand start.

FA: Takeki Kawamura, 2016

Jam your way up the short vertical crack, then monkey across the top of the boulder, keeping your feet on the face until top out.

FA: Marc, 15 May 2016

Left face and arête.

FA: Takeki Kawamura, 18 Jun 2016

Right face and arête.

FA: Takeki Kawamura, 18 Jun 2016

Some kind of laybacking in the corner up the OW

FA: Alex Leslie, 5 Jul 2020

Stand start on left arete and crimp on right arete (around same level) . Compressioney!! There is a version that starts with the left hand on the crimp on the face but it adds about 2 grades.

Careful not to dab your back as you top out

Easy slab. Needs cleaning/bolting. Open project.

Open project.

Better than it looks. Sit start with left crimp and right undercling low. Up and traverse right until arete to top out.

FA: Mitch Woodward, 4 Jun 2018

Sit start with high left hold and obvious right hand. Trend right to slopers then back left to top out up the arete. Careful of the creaky pinch...

FA: Mitch Woodward, 4 Jun 2018

Needs cleaning / bolting. Open project.

Stand start after the long sloper traverse. Cool offwidth climbing!

Start far under to dihedral, inside cave on a obvious good edge. Slap left along slopey traverse with smears and heel hooks to committing finish. HARD

Sit start then pinch and make impossible moved up the steep fin.

Short crimp line on egg shaped boulder.

FA: Elliot Vercoe, 1 May 2016

FA: Marc, 1 May 2016

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