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Description

Main bouldering area of Mt Randall - well developed.

Access issues inherited from Mt Randall (Bouldering)

Located in a national park - respect the bushland and the rock!

Approach

Birds eye topos being made ASAP

Ethic inherited from Mt Randall (Bouldering)

Climbing is a privilege not a right – please respect the bushland and the rock. Where possible preserve the natural flora and keep to tracks to minimize impact. Clean tick marks and caked chalk with a good scrubbing. Although some older problems are chipped and glued this is no longer tolerated. No chipping or gluing.

Routes

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Grade Route

Up slab – bald top out. Located on the far left of the parklife boulder

Straight up from ledge to "broken" holds.

Sit start on obvious ledge on the left. Traverse right to 'The Crack'. Adds some powerful climbing to the original! https://youtu.be/kUFqbWRqoCE

FA: Steve Holland

Stand start, Up obvious crack. Highball.

Optional easy direct sitter that adds an easy couple of moves to the stand and doesn't change the grade.

Start on the triangle. Up to edges to finish. Classic. https://vimeo.com/120233539

Stand start. Tricky slab moves.

Start on edges on left and up through undercling. Avoid the boulder on the left.

FA: Jason Girdlestone

Stand start on massive undercling flake and walk your way up it to the top.

Up slab. Scary but cool.

FA: Steve Holland

Traverse along lip and top out.

Sit start on tiny crimps and up. Top out as for #14 Crux is getting off the ground!

FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2016

Sit start on crimps - move up to obvious flake, then up arete avoiding boulder on left. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNTW6D2o-wY The right hand starting hold has broken making the start slightly harder. Grade now closer to hard V4

Sit start. Up bulge.

Stand start. Good warm-up

Up crack. Optional sitter with the creaky flake.

Stand: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kfg5WU1bPZw

FA: Steve Holland

Slab

Up slab to the right of the descent for "Gold". Mind your back. Crack is out.

Stand start, up arete using the left face.

Up arete.

Up mossy slab.

Low start into bulge, scary to top.

Sit start. Up edges – long moves. Manufactured…but cool! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBkCcv_uUv4

FA: Andy Lampard

One of Andys hard projects. Up crimps avoiding bulge – an eliminate. �

Start in the crack. Up the bulge to the left. Nice feature.

Sit start in the crack. Trend right from the crack. Rad sequence. https://vimeo.com/100421471

FA: Andy Lampard

Start on obvious jug up to crimps. Tricky top out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=av5rPtnHiRU

Right hand edge has broken leaving a good side pull and making the problem significantly easier

Sit start as "Phallic" - traverse the slopey lip left to top out as Eye Candy.

FA: Simon Peters, 11 May 2018

Sit start on edges up to undercling and tricky mantle.

Stand start with edge. Up to slopers and tricky moves to top out.

FA: Andy Lampard

Start as Steel City Groove then take a delicate traverse left. https://vimeo.com/183087407

Up obvious amphitheatre/groove. Technical highball slab with a massive dyno to finish. Classic. https://vimeo.com/182053235

FA: Will Atkinson, 9 Sep 2016

Project. Up compression bulge.

Sit start on obvious rail on left. Traverse right with long shouldery moves on crimps. Finish with a tricky slab top out. Located between 'Man in the Middle' and 'Steel City Groove'.

https://vimeo.com/339737416

PS: Please try to avoid using the top part of starting hand hold - it is quite wobbly and at risk of breaking. The hold is more secure ~5cm down, where the 2nd flake starts. Thanks!

FA: Robin Yang, 5 Jun 2019

Left of "Stone in its foot". Stand start with left hand on good sidepull, feet on obvious low edge and right hand on high really thin crimp. Move straight up to average left crimp/sidepull, move feet high and eventually top out straight up. Trickier than it looks and isn't over till you top out!

FA: Ferdi, 26 Jun 2017

Best V4! Start low on juggy right hand side pull and slopey left hand. Power up arete. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNTW6D2o-wY

Start squeezing bulge then out right to thumb-catch pinch. Powerful moves to slab. Improbable. https://vimeo.com/100421471

FA: Andy Lampard

Starts left of C.F.T.W. Low squat start with left hand triangle pinch and right hand crimp rail. Pull on and chuck a right heel, then bump your way up crimpy right hand side-pulls. Trend left for spicey slab topout (back boulder is out). Ideally done with 3 pads (1 pad for down-climb where There Will Be Blood finishes).

Follow the crack starting right in the cave. Powerful on good holds. Awesome feature, classic. https://vimeo.com/120233539

FA: Andy Lampard

Stand start. Squeeze bulge and up.

FA: Andy Lampard

Start on pinchy block to a hard sloper traverse into underclings and wild cross-throughs to crimps up high. Hard. Stand start at the undercling is V9. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjrW3GyEhlU

A crucial foot at the start has broken since the FA making the start significantly harder...possibly V12 for the full line now

FA: Clinton Martinengo, 30 Oct 2016

Start with There Will Be Blood, but instead of topping out use the edges on problem #39 to come across to The Katana and finish on The Katana. A long endurance test piece that will certainly be a hard link up. Adds in a hard crux of coming down of the starting edge of #39 to the start of The Katana. Could probably shake out stemming between the Katana and Blood boulders... Contrived...

Set by Clinton Martinengo

Stand start. Up good edges on face. Holds are quite fragile...

Sit start. Start perched on mini-boulder. Up layback crack. Watch the ankles.

Squeeze the fridge and up to edge. One mover – cool. Easier if you’re tall. http://vimeo.com/100705580

Sit start on under-cling and up to flake. Sharp. Easier if you’re tall. Escape to boulder on the right. Up slab has gone – scary. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_3sWMMJe_w

using the sharp jug up and left of the obvious slopey crimp on the face earns you V5

Sit start as 'Flakes'. Up using the sharp jug up and left of the obvious slopey crimp on the face instead of going directly up and right.

3m of climbing on inward facing crimps on a steep face lead to a scary 5m slab. Shouldery, hard. Fragile holds. https://youtu.be/Ky45gPjB-pM

Unfortunately since the FA the final crimp of the crux (left hand gaston at the lip) appears to have been chipped using an angle grinder to make it a better hold. This makes the grade closer to V11

Set by Andy Lampard

FA: Clinton Martinengo, 28 Aug 2016

could go

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