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Description

From the picnic rock go right over some rubble between two boulders. You should immediately come out on top of some steep boulder slabs. The anchor above Bed’s Are Burning should be visible a few metres to your right. Rap down from this anchor (12m). Alternatively go left around a boulder from the picnic rock and immediately back right. You should see a small cleft – the rabbit hole. Easy scrambling down takes you to the bottom. Routes described left to right.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The furthest route left at the crag. Start a few metres left of QwaC. Boulder past the first bolt and then more easily up and right past 3 more bolts to a lower off above QwaC. Pleasant climbing on mossy scoops and slab-jugs.

FA: Kate Swain, Chris Swain & Neil Gledhill, Oct 2015

Magic broomsticks were out in force during the first ascent. Starts at the thin crack behind a bottle brush. Squeeze up through the branches with technical footwork and disappointing finger locks to a sloper jug. Thin gear. A delicate move takes you to an easy angled, gear gobbling crack that leads to a DBB lower off.

FA: Neil Gledhill, Swain Sweeping Team, kate swain & Chris Swain, Oct 2015

A refresher course in slab technique for those who have let their domestic duties slip. Could be soft for the grade as we haven’t climbed anything “proper” slabby in a while. Start just left of Big Man’s Rump. Delicate crystals to start with take you too some consumer crimps. Then the reality of desperate housewives kicks in hard. Techy slabbing takes you higher past 5 bolts in total to a DBB up high on a boulder above the final slab shared with Big Man’s Rump.

FA: Kate Swain & Neil Gledhill, May 2015

An attractive line. Start up the appealing wide crack. Just prior to the shrubs, escape left onto the steep slab and pad your way up past 3 bolts. Using the edge of the wide crack is permitted if you must. Number 3 and number 4 camalot handy for the wide crack. DBB up high on a boulder above the final slab top out.

FA: Kate Swain, Chris Swain & Neil Gledhill, May 2015

A very attractive slab. Right of BMR. A fine example of technical slab climbing. A few tricky bits, so ensure you are topped up with finesse. Follow the line of bolts, staying out of the gulley at the start. A series of very classy sequences made for climbing. DBB lower off at the top.

FA: Neil Gledhill & Kate Swain, May 2015

Not really a climb, but a handy access route from the picnic rock to the base of the boulders.

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