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Clintons Playground

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 4
27

Seasonality

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Description

Large boulders with some interesting features. Area still quite underdeveloped, go exploring!

Access issues inherited from Mt Randall (Bouldering)

Located in a national park - respect the bushland and the rock!

Approach

On the main walk in fire trail there is a pink tag on the left about 50m after the abandoned boat. The GPS coordinates of this tag are 32.33480S, 116.22985E. Follow a vague trail following the pink tags. This will take you straight to the cave. This is the easiest way to this area.

Alternatively, from the main area, trend left from the up the hill boulders and follow a bashed out trail marked with pink tags. This tagged path can take you from the cave area to the two large highball boulders (the Sketchy Boulder and the Edges Boulder) and then back to the main area.

Ethic inherited from Mt Randall (Bouldering)

Climbing is a privilege not a right – please respect the bushland and the rock. Where possible preserve the natural flora and keep to tracks to minimize impact. Clean tick marks and caked chalk with a good scrubbing. Although some older problems are chipped and glued this is no longer tolerated. No chipping or gluing.

Routes

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Grade Route

Up the obvious crack. Easy warm up with decent feet on face.

Used to be an interesting looking feature. As soon as the first climber touched the holds 2 massive flakes ripped easily off, now is a normal slab.

Obvious line to the left of 'up the edges.' Harder than it looks. Watch your back. Careful of fragile hold halfway up

Cant fathom how this will be possible.

Obvious line of edges.

Highball. Up obvious flakes.

Could go

Sketchy. To the right of Hug me I'm brave

Super high hands to start. Start on right and bump left, then up on dimples.

Humungous move from the worlds biggest jug up to a crimp, slap right hand up and top out. Probably end up using hard beta slapping up arete on right side.

Really cool looking moves in the feature up to a big undercling and up. To the right of Powerup.

Start on undercling, Trend right up and around bulge. Powerful and cool.

Same start as Bulge, but go straight up to the left of the bulge. Looks shouldery

Starts up on ledge on top of Bulge. Layback. Landing could go really bad, so use a spotter.

Super low Sit-start just on the other side of the feature of Long Road. Move Left and then up to top same as Long Road.

Sit start way back in the cave. Follow the impressive crack out of the cave. Sustained and pumpy. Bad landing just before the jug in the middle and the end is super highball. Soft end of V7. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjrW3GyEhlU

FA: Clinton Martinengo, 30 Oct 2016

Other obvious line out of the cave. Sit start and follow crack. End is the hardest bit, could be a bad landing depending how far along you end up going

Stand start on the arete using the left face then up to the crack. Traverse right to finish at the top of the corner. Doesn't top out to keep things safe. Top out goes, but committing and some dire consequences... Sit adds a grade.

FA: Michael Taran, 30 Oct 2016

Arete, intercept 'the other one.' Finish same as "the other one'

Stand start and press the corner. Finish on the crack. Doesn't top out...

FA: Clinton Martinengo, 30 Oct 2016

Up little corner and intercept 'the other one.' Finish same as 'The other one'

Little offwidth you can do to get to the top of 'the other one'. Gnarly granite is painful. Just for fun this one.

Sit start, along left edge.

Sit start on crimps, slap to either edge and to top.

Eliminate avoiding both edges and going straight to top is possible, bit harder.

Sit Start on undercling, along right arete.

Sit start. Feature looks like the face of a skeptical old man with an eyebrow raised. Or a lorax. Hug the feature

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