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Description

A red/orange crag typical of Central Australia. 10m-25m, some exciting lines, some loose rock. A good variety or grades and styles. Some climbs have rap chains, others not. Beware loose rock at the top but plenty of opportunities for trad anchors.

It is possible to walk up (from the left side facing the wall) to set up an anchor for top rope or abseil down to retrieve your gear.

Access issues

Please be aware the crag is on National parks land and a courtesy warning before climbing to the onsite rangers is preferred. The rangers have been supportive of climbing in the past, please help keep the relationship happy.

Approach

As you drive to Ormiston Gorge (and the campsite) the crag can be seen easily on your right over the (generally) dry creekbed. Please park opposite the crag but well off the road to keep the rangers happy and the traffic safe.

Where to stay

Camping (not free, but good amenities) is available at the Ormiston Gorge national park campsite. Powered sites available down the road at Glen Helen.

Routes

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Grade Route

Very left hand climb on the crag. Up the obvious gully. Some loose rock.

Slabs and ledges on solid rock. Great for beginner climbers. Toprope possible off the rap chain to the right.

Starts in a steep corner with a carrot, up over a bulge with limited natural protection before following the next three carrots to a rap chain. Beware the potential ground fall from 1st to 2nd bolt. A nice line with some loose rock. A great big #6 cam helps protect the crux, while it is advisable to back up the carrots where possible as they are old and stick out a fair way

Up two ledges then the arete past carrots and FH's to a rap chain.

Up the centre of the slab right of Old Favourite's arete. Finish at rap chain.

A fantastic climb with everything you need: nice sequences, exposure and enough protection to keep you happy. Climb face to left trending crack, which you follow to the top.

FA: Mark Rewi & Ali Trebileo, 1998

Obvious left facing corner. Nice and varied climbing on partially suspect rock.

FA: Mark Rewi, Julie Smith & Ali Trebileo, 1998

The prominent crack on the slab right of Inner Peace. A great beginners lead with continuos pro BUT with the occasional large block that will test your nerve...helmets on! If you passed the white gum tree, you can set up a nice anchor! Mind you, no chain on top!

Look for the splitter crack with an overhang at about 5 metres and roof at about 20 metres and enjoy the climb. Bold in parts for the grade but also with everything there. Larger nuts or cams the go for this one.

FA: D. Auton & K. Culhane, 1995

Start as for Sickle through the first overhang and then step right on to the slab and continue up with great moves and exposure to the chains above

FA: D. Auton & K. Kulhane, 1995

One of the absolute best lines in all of Central Australia, packing in a little bit of everything. Start just around the corner from Sickle at thin, slabby crack. Up this delicately before jugging through small roof. Step L, place bomber cam, take a deep breath and crank through overhang into fist crack leading to the large belay ledge. Rap off chains 3m to the left

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Activity

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