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Squeaky Beach

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Access issues inherited from Wilson's Promontory

Keep all off track activities to a minimum.

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park, which is easy to get from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches

Ethic inherited from Wilson's Promontory

Limit Bush Bashing to an absolute minimum.

No bolting.

UPDATE 2017: Projects will remain closed for one year from date of being posted. If not completed by then the route is open for others to attempt. This will allow routes to be completed in a relatively timely fashion and prevent every line being claimed and never completed. This approach is more than acceptable since there is no investment of bolts, time for route cleaning, ect at the prom, especially if the route has never been attempted.

Bolting is prohibited in the National Park. 'Gardening' (removal or damage to vegetation on climbs) or wire brushing to remove lichen or moss is prohibited. Chipping holds or marking the start of climbs is prohibited. Access the cliffs using existing paths and if appropriate descend by abseil rather than scrambling.

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Routes

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Step across creek as for Just the tip. Move up and left to juggy holds 4 to 5 metres up.

Set: Michael Salt, 7 Dec 2013

FFA: Michael Salt, 7 Dec 2013

Start on the decent juggy crimp on the lip and move up and right along the lip, topping out on the Apex of the boulder.

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Jan 2022

Step across creek onto small foothold. Straight up using small crimps avoiding jugs on the left and Frontal Lobotomy to the right

FFA: Michael Salt, 7 Dec 2013

Set: Michael Salt, 7 Dec 2013

Kneel start on low flake/foothold, climb up nice pinch holds, avoid left flake as it is a bit hollow sounding.

FA: Cody Gillmeister, 22 Nov 2020

If facing 'Squeak Crack', heads up the back of the boulder on your right. Sit start low on flake, climb enormous jugs.

Has almost certainly been done before, name made up for recording.

Short but steep overhang. Start seated (or crouched if short) with 1 hand on the lip and one hand on the sidepull/undercling. Punch up, traverse right onto good holds and mantel.

Harder sit project is available. Start two hands on sidepull/undercling.

FA: Jamie, 25 Jan 2021

Sit Start matched in the leftward-facing juggy hole in the middle of the overhang. Punch up to the lip and mantle.

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Jan 2022

Sit-Start holding the pocket on the left and pebble on the right as for Squeak My Nipples. Move to protruding good hold then move left on small holds and onto left side face using small crimp. from here big move up to pocket with left and finish. Arete is out below final pocket.

FA: Dave C, 31 Dec 2018

Sit-Start holding the pocket on the left and pebble on the right.

FA: Hiro Nishikawa, 8 Feb 2015

FA: Hiro Nishikawa, 8 Feb 2015

Flying dyno onto top

FA: Grant Baxter, 31 Mar 2016

Located on a large boulder on the South-East end of the beach, with an obvious seam.

Start up the flake/seam (crux) onto a slab, then up the seam above (easier on the left).

Most likely a repeat.

Located on a large boulder on the South-East end of the beach, with an obvious seam.

Start off the block to the left of the seam, trend up and right(crossing the seam) to slabby topout.

Probably a repeat.

Fun Mantle. sit start on good holds in the middle of the boulder. pull up and mantle over.

FA: Dave C & Tom Hodges, 31 Dec 2018

Sit start with hands on the bottom edge. Go up to crack and incut next to the crack before topping out to the right.

FA: Oscar Kearsley, 10 Apr 2021

SDS as for Mouse Trap. Traverse diagonally left making sure to use the slopers before heading to the slot. From the slot, move further left to an easy top out.

FA: Jamie, 25 Jan 2021

Nice moves on obvious holds. Start standing on the lowest rail and move rightward on jugs then bust out for the great sidepull. Mantel from here.

An extension can be done which involves another big move to a sharp pocket. Probably goes at a slightly harder grade.

FA: Jamie, 25 Jan 2021

An interesting and somewhat desperate mantel. Start standing with hands matched on the lowest part of the juggy hold. Find a way to mantel.

FA: Jamie, 25 Jan 2021

How could you realistically compete? Start as for "Slaughterfish" but move directly up.

FA: Jamie, 14 Jan 2021

The treachery of the sea is evergrowing... On the back of the "Slaughterfish" boulder, stand-start with hands matched on the lowest rail. Bust up and over.

Might be wet in high tide / high swell.

FA: Jamie, 25 Jan 2021

Start matched on the low undercling at the lowest point on the boulder. Move up to the lip and traverse the lip rightwards until topping out on the highest corner (traverse 3 sides of the boulder).

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Jan 2022

Slab Highball - RH on the Upward facing knob (LH any available hold) and smear feet to start. Head straight up and top out - be wary as good holds become scarce towards the top.

FA: Brett, 30 Dec 2018

Step on obvious pebbles heading out left towards arete then up.

FA: Adrian Yeet, 12 Feb 2022

An alright line. Good view

FA: Grant Baxter & L Baxx, 31 Mar 2016

Start low in the crack matched, shimmy up, balance move to the right, with reaching pull on sloppers then slow top out

FA: Nic jones, 6 May 2018

Sit start on the arete. High left hand on the sloper with right hand crimp. Go straight up. Bailing to the juggy cave to the right makes it bit easier.

FA: Jakub Juchum, 7 Apr 2019

LH starting on the decent RH of Hug me. Stand start and go straight up

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Jan 2022

Start as for Big Red. Traverse right and go up using better holds.

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Jan 2022

Sit start. Head straight up the blunt arete.

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Jan 2022

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