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Access issues inherited from Wilson's Promontory

Keep all off track activities to a minimum.

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park, which is easy to get from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches

Ethic inherited from Wilson's Promontory

Limit Bush Bashing to an absolute minimum.

No bolting.

UPDATE 2017: Projects will remain closed for one year from date of being posted. If not completed by then the route is open for others to attempt. This will allow routes to be completed in a relatively timely fashion and prevent every line being claimed and never completed. This approach is more than acceptable since there is no investment of bolts, time for route cleaning, ect at the prom, especially if the route has never been attempted.

Bolting is prohibited in the National Park. 'Gardening' (removal or damage to vegetation on climbs) or wire brushing to remove lichen or moss is prohibited. Chipping holds or marking the start of climbs is prohibited. Access the cliffs using existing paths and if appropriate descend by abseil rather than scrambling.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Step across creek as for Just the tip. Move up and left to juggy holds 4 to 5 metres up.

Set by Michael Salt, 7 Dec 2013

FFA: Michael Salt, 7 Dec 2013

Step across creek onto small foothold. Straight up using small crimps avoiding jugs on the left and Frontal Lobotomy to the right

FFA: Michael Salt, 7 Dec 2013

Set by Michael Salt, 7 Dec 2013

Kneel start on low flake/foothold, climb up nice pinch holds, avoid left flake as it is a bit hollow sounding.

FA: Cody Gillmeister, 22 Nov

If facing 'Squeak Crack', heads up the back of the boulder on your right. Sit start low on flake, climb enormous jugs.

Has almost certainly been done before, name made up for recording.

Short but steep overhang. Start seated (or crouched if short) with 1 hand on the lip and one hand on the sidepull/undercling. Punch up, traverse right onto good holds and mantel.

FA: Jamie Ung, 25 Jan

Sit-Start holding the pocket on the left and pebble on the right as for Squeak My Nipples. Move to protruding good hold then move left on small holds and onto left side face using small crimp. from here big move up to pocket with left and finish. Arete is out below final pocket.

FA: Dave C, 31 Dec 2018

Sit-Start holding the pocket on the left and pebble on the right.

FA: Hiro Nishikawa, 8 Feb 2015

FA: Hiro Nishikawa, 8 Feb 2015

Flying dyno onto top

FA: Grant Baxter, 31 Mar 2016

Located on a large boulder on the South-East end of the beach, with an obvious seam.

Start up the flake/seam (crux) onto a slab, then up the seam above (easier on the left).

Most likely a repeat.

Located on a large boulder on the South-East end of the beach, with an obvious seam.

Start off the block to the left of the seam, trend up and right(crossing the seam) to slabby topout.

Probably a repeat.

Fun Mantle. sit start on good holds in the middle of the boulder. pull up and mantle over.

FA: Dave C & Tom Hodges, 31 Dec 2018

SDS as for Mouse Trap. Traverse diagonally left making sure to use the slopers before heading to the slot. From the slot, move further left to an easy top out.

FA: Jamie Ung, 25 Jan

Nice moves on obvious holds. Start standing on the lowest rail and move rightward on jugs then bust out for the great sidepull. Mantel from here.

An extension can be done which involves another big move to a sharp pocket. Probably goes at a slightly harder grade.

FA: Jamie Ung, 25 Jan

An interesting and somewhat desperate mantel. Start standing with hands matched on the lowest part of the juggy hold. Find a way to mantel.

FA: Jamie Ung, 25 Jan

How could you realistically compete? Start as for "Slaughterfish" but move directly up.

FA: Jamie Ung, 14 Jan

The treachery of the sea is evergrowing... On the back of the "Slaughterfish" boulder, stand-start with hands matched on the lowest rail. Bust up and over.

Might be wet in high tide / high swell.

FA: Jamie Ung, 25 Jan

Slab Highball - RH on the Upward facing knob (LH any available hold) and smear feet to start. Head straight up and top out - be wary as good holds become scarce towards the top.

FA: Brett, 30 Dec 2018

An alright line. Good view

FA: Grant Baxter & L Baxx, 31 Mar 2016

Start low in the crack matched, shimmy up, balance move to the right, with reaching pull on sloppers then slow top out

FA: Nic jones, 6 May 2018

Sit start on the arete. High left hand on the sloper with right hand crimp. Go straight up. Bailing to the juggy cave to the right makes it bit easier.

FA: Jakub Juchum, 7 Apr 2019

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