Wilson's Promontory Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. Wilson's Promontory 240 routes in Crag

1 9 2 4 3 5 6 7 10 13 11 12

1 Tongue Point 2 Whiskey Bay 3 Squeaky Beach 4 Mt Bishop 5 Turtle Rock 6 Mt Oberon 7 Little Oberon 9 Vanishing Wall 10 Mt Wilson 11 Easter Island Heads 12 Lighthouse Area 13 Islands

Summary:

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Seasonality

Bouldering, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -38.970339, 146.359161

summary

Wilson's Promontory Marine National Park is an excellent travel destination with access to sandy beaches, clear blue water, and beautiful mountains in an idyllic setting.

description

Wilson's Promontory Marine National Park is located on the southern-most tip of the Australian mainland. It is a world-class conservation area with over 3,000 native animals and plants. As such, climbers should take the utmost care to prevent damage to the flora and fauna.

Most of the climbing is trad or bouldering and it is a fantastic spot to spend the weekend with your climbing buddies. There are excellent facilities at Tidal River consisting of toilets, hot showers, and a convenience store that serves coffee.

Various accommodation options exist inside the Prom ranging from basic camping to expensive lodges. Prices vary throughout the year with summer being peak season.

Some highlight activities include: going to the beach, surfing, fishing, kayaking, day and overnight hiking, and photography, and/or taking a tour of skull island.

Mobile reception quality varies throughout the region. Be mindful if going into uncharted territory and/or locations where rescue might be limited.

access issues

A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:

-Mt Bishop

-Elephant Rock

-Mt Oberon

-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)

-Turtle Rock.

There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.

approach

Refer to individual crags to see access information.

where to stay

Camping at Tidal River is the best option. There are hot showers and toilets. Campsites can be booked on the ParksVic website. Summer is peak season but clears out in off season.

https://bookings.parks.vic.gov.au/tidal-river-campground#/accom/33314

Several paid options available outside of the park. Generally expensive during holiday periods.

The closest free overnight parking is at the BP Truck Stop in Fish Creek (~20 minutes to Wilsons Prom entrance). This place can accommodate cars/vans/trucks, but locals are unlikely to be happy with people setting tents. Please arrive late and leave early if staying here to minimize problems with locals.

ethic

• Be friendly and respectful to other park users, and especially to any Park Rangers
• Please respect camping and no-fire rules
• NO BOLTS - Bolting is prohibited within Wilsons Prom
• Brush ticks
• Keep all off-track activities to a minimum
• Chipping holds or marking the start of climbs is prohibited
• 'Gardening' is prohibited (removal or damage to vegetation on climbs)
• Access the cliffs using existing paths and if appropriate descend by abseil rather than scrambling

UPDATED 2024: Projects will remain closed for one year from the date of upload. If not completed after one year, the route is open for others to attempt.

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1.1. Tongue Point 22 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -38.993798, 146.259594

1.1.1. Cleopatras Zawn 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.1.2. Causeway Area 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.1.3. Sea Dream Zawn 7 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.1.4. Fang Cove 9 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

1.1.5. Neptunes Thumb 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.2. Whiskey Bay 36 routes in Crag

1 2

1 North Whiskey 2 South Whiskey

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -39.012355, 146.289817

summary

Bouldering at Whiskey Bay! A beautiful spot to be close to the beach and sea. Some decent routes and much quieter than Squeaky Beach. Best in low tide as more boulders are accessible.

description

A variety of boulders, ranging from safe and low, to some rather large highballs. Most of the landings are soft and sandy, meaning some bouldering can be completed without a mat. Of course, a mat is always recommended regardless.

This is a child-friendly zone.

approach

Follow the track to the beach from the Whiskey Bay car park. Once at the beach, head left to the boulders. It is approximately a 5-10 minute walk.

history

Like Squeaky Beach, the boulders were listed in the Eastern District Guidebook. Almost everything will have been already climbed over the many decades, therefore almost all newly listed problems will be First Recorded Ascents and not First Ascents.

1.2.1. North Whiskey 1 route in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: -39.011270, 146.289257

description

Boulders on the northern section of Whiskey Bay. Some potentials routes closer to the water may provide a wet feet start at high tide.

approach

Head north on the beach.

1.2.1.1. Ardmore Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

description

Overhung boulder seated above others.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★★ Golden Eagle Hands only problem on granite slopers moving from left to right. FFA: Mikie Bob, 23 Feb 2017	V3	Boulder 3m

1.2.2. South Whiskey 35 routes in Field

9 2 3 4 8 5 6 1 7 11

1 Keep Walking Boulder 2 Chivas Regal Boulder 3 Ardberg Boulder 4 Neat Boulder 5 Lagavulin 6 Pebbly Debbly Boulder 7 Bourbon 8 Cracker Boulder 9 The Kiddies Pool 11 Cocktail Party

Summary:

Lat / Long: -39.013386, 146.290360

description

The maze of boulders at the south of the beach. Many of the climbs have obvious holds, good landings, and is suitable for beginners. It is a scenic destination with many people around so please be respectful to other park users and rangers.

The best time to go is during low tide as a number of problems will be underwater otherwise.

approach

From Whiskey Bay carpark, follow the walking track to the beach for approximately 400 metres. The boulders are immediately on your left as you enter the beach.

1.2.2.1. Keep Walking Boulder 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -39.013518, 146.291021

description

A smaller boulder with an interesting crack and some potential overhung routes.

approach

The leftmost boulder of the field when viewing the area from Whiskey Bay beach.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Drunk and Alone Behind the boulder. Sit-start matched laybacking off rail and punch up for the jug. FA: Jamie, 24 Jan 2021	V0	Boulder 2m
2		Johnny Black Open Project. Sit start. Up overhung black streak on small holds. Set: Mikie Bob, 23 Feb 2017	V4	BoulderProject 3m
3		★ Rare and Exceptional Sit start. Tricky moves off the deck as you head up overhanging crack Set: amelie, 23 Feb 2017 FFA: Mikie Bob, 23 Feb 2017	V3	Boulder 3m
4		★ Just Coke Sit start. Up face between left arete and crack line on face. FFA: amelie, 23 Feb 2017	V0	Boulder 3m
5		★ Johnny and Coke Sit start. Easily up left leaning diagonal crack on face. FFA: amelie, 23 Feb 2017	V0	Boulder 3m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
6		★ Striding Man Society Sit start. Use triangular flake to mantle up onto slab. Stride on up. FFA: Mikie Bob, 23 Feb 2017	V1	Boulder 3m
7		Societal Intoxication The small rounded arete. Stand-start and up. FA: Jamie, 25 Jan 2021	V0	Boulder 3m
8		★★ The Inebriated Climber An easy traverse but a tad contrived. Sit-start and move right past a few slopers. FA: Jamie, 25 Jan 2021	V1	Boulder 4m

1.2.2.2. Chivas Regal Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -39.013267, 146.290591

description

Large grey boulder, with slab routes on the beach side. You may get wet feet at high tide.

Descent is by scrambling down path of least resistance onto a smaller boulder.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Smooth Blend Stand start. Up pocket to the right of the arete, up to small crack. Definite highball so don't fall. FFA: Mikie Bob, 23 Feb 2017	V1	Boulder 6m
2		★★ Chivas Centre Climb centre line of the slab, just right of Smooth Blend	V1	Boulder 6m
3		★★ Chivas Right Start just left of right arete, climb through the vague pockets to a delicate exit.	V2	Boulder 6m

1.2.2.3. Ardberg Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -39.013370, 146.290662

description

One of the larger boulders one the edge of the sand. Capped in orange "algae" with a large left lean crack dissecting the back of the boulder. The fused pieces of rock make for amazing hand holds.

This boulder may occasionally be covered by sand at the bottom. It may not be climbable at times. If the lower flake is not visible, it is not climbable.

approach

Head to South Whiskey Boulders. It is almost impossible to describe which boulder it is in this maze so match the topo. The boulder is one of the closer to the edge of the field (beach side).

Descent is down the least steep area, using the awesome rocks fused into the granite.

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Scotch on the Rocks Sit start off the rock, using the large left leaning diagonal crack. Up wall through interesting crimps and onto bomber jugs at top. FFA: Mikie Bob, 23 Feb 2017	V2	Boulder 5m
2		★★ Heavily Peated Sit start from wet sand. Tricky mantle onto ground flake and up. Set: Mikie Bob, 23 Feb 2017 FA: Ash Burton-Smith, 17 Oct 2017	V3	Boulder 5m
3		★ Heavily Peated Scotch on the Rocks Follow the crack. SDS as for Heavily Peated. Stand and traverse leftward following the diagonal left leaning line. No using jugs at top until you are fully on the slab. FA: Jamie, 24 Jan 2021	V2	Boulder 3m
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1.2.2.4. Neat Boulder 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -39.013385, 146.290495

description

A larger boulder within the maze.

approach

Navigate through the field and match up the topo.

Descent is scrambling down path of least resistance down to smaller boulder.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Straight Up Stand start. Up rounded arete. Watch out for the rocks below, a spotter may help! FFA: amelie, 23 Feb 2017	V2	Boulder 5m
2		★ Just a Nip On the south side of the boulder opposite Straight Up. Stand start matched on basalt rail. Top out to left via high foot and jugs. Set: Tom, 31 Dec 2019	V1	Boulder 4m
3		★★ A Wee Dram Start as for 'Just a Nip' matched on basalt rail, following pinchy holds out to the right. Set: Tom, 31 Dec 2019	V3	Boulder 4m
4		Brandy Snifter Match start to the right of 'A Wee Dram'. Traverse around left into 'Just a Nip'. FA: John AO, 1 Jan	V2	Boulder
5		Two fingers Balancy start left of 'Just a Nip' with right hand in nice undercling slot and left hand on faint crimp . Bang up to jug hold and top out directly above. Set: Tom, 31 Dec 2019	V2	Boulder 4m

1.2.2.5. Lagavulin 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -39.013458, 146.290527

description

A low flat boulder in the field with a small overhung roof section.

approach

Between Neat and Pebbly Debbly

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Navigating Through Murky Waters SDS on far left of the boulder on nice jug rail with feet underneath. Pull off the ground and mantel. FA: Jamie, 24 Jan 2021	V2	Boulder 2m
2		★★ The Monster in the Sea A leftward technical traverse on great holds. SDS with one hand on jug of "Old Fashioned" and the other hand on the 3-finger low pocket. Finish up on the far left of the boulder. The full problem (open project) starts low in the overhang on two 3-finger pockets and busts out to the lip before continuing the traverse. Would likely go. FA: Jamie, 24 Jan 2021	V4	Boulder 3m
3		★ Alien Potatoes A beginner's dream. SDS on the two alien looking potato holds and head directly up using the sidepull on the right. FA: Jamie, 24 Jan 2021	V0	Boulder 2m
4		★ Old Fashioned Start matched on jug on edge of overhang and do a fun one-move punch to the jug and mantle. Bat hang start for fun / style points. Set: Tom, 31 Dec 2019	V1	Boulder 2m
5		Slippery Beginnings Rounded slab opposite the Lagavulin boulder. Stand-start easily but mantel difficulty. FA: Jamie Ung, 24 Jan 2021	V0	Boulder 2m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
6		The Backside of the Whale A nice technical traverse which is immediately on your left as you can see the Lagavulin boulder. Stand-start as far right as possible. Traverse leftward using slopers and crimps before reaching the jugs. Avoid the good lip until the mantel. FA: Jamie Ung, 24 Jan 2021	V2	Boulder 3m

1.2.2.6. Pebbly Debbly Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -39.013487, 146.290418

description

A low tide boulder only with two lines on the right as you approach from the beach, and two lines on the back of the boulder.

approach

About 10 -15 metres further around from neat boulder towards the headland.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Squarking Seagulls Sit start with hands in the bottom of crack. Follow crack/ flake to the top Set: Ash Burton-Smith, 17 Oct 2017 FA: Ash Burton-Smith, 17 Oct 2017	V0	Boulder 4m
2		★★ Razor Jammin Sit start matched on large pebble at bottom of the crack. Follow line of crack up to top out. V4 or V5. Jamming not recommended! Set: Ash Burton-Smith, 17 Oct 2017	V4	Boulder 4m
3		★ Risky Whiskey Start with right hand in the scoop and left on the flake then continue up and to the right, going over the bulge above the scoop to top out. No clear landing spots below but good holds all the way up. FA: Captain Ruin, 19 Jun 2021	V1	Boulder 4m
4		★★ Chunky Spew Sit start with hands on flake then reach up for chunky bits and hurl on up. FA: Captain Ruin, 19 Jun 2021	V0	Boulder 3m

1.2.2.7. Bourbon 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -39.013541, 146.290440

description

A quite smooth-looking boulder with a slight forward lean.

approach

Just to the left when standing at the beachside face of the Pebby Debbly Boulder. Descent - easy climb down backside.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Maker's Mark Jump to obvious jug to start. Work up the feature, gentle feet. FA: John AO, 3 Jan	V2	Boulder

1.2.2.8. Cracker Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -39.013458, 146.290304

description

Amazing boulder with a fun crack line, bottom low tide only or else you'll get wet feet.

approach

If you are at Pebbly Debbly boulder, look left its right there

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Berty In Tow Sit start at the large pocket. Climb the subtle arete. Nice slabbing! FA: Spencer Lindsay, Feb 2023	V2	Boulder 4m
2		★ Crackadacker Sit Start at bottom of crack. Pull your way up crack while staying balanced. Holds on the face are in. Set: Ash Burton-Smith, 17 Oct 2017 FA: Ash Burton-Smith, 17 Oct 2017	V1	Boulder 4m

1.2.2.9. The Kiddies Pool 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -39.013245, 146.290772

description

A large boulder with some midway crimps for potential slab routes

approach

The largest rightmost boulder when first approaching the boulder field

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Hell or High Water Feet might get wet starting. Climb to the first crimps left of the centre line, then traverse across to the impression in the boulder. Climb upwards from here, topping out at the partial jug. FFA: Harry B, 29 Aug 2022	V2	Boulder 7m

1.2.2.10. Suntory 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

description

Small squashed looking boulder with obvious jug features. Great for warm up.

approach

On the right of the Cracker Boulder.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		For Relaxing Times Start matched on small pinches and move up through big safe holds avoiding huge basalt ledge on left. FA: Hannah Stewart, 31 Dec 2019	V0	Boulder 2m

1.2.2.11. Cocktail Party 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -39.013614, 146.290316

description

Reach a small sandy area surrounded by tall rocks.

approach

Head towards Pebbly Debbley and walk into a narrow cave-like section between boulders (entered across from Razor Jammin). Reach a small hidden beach.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Gulls on Sazerac Start at the triangular base and work up its two sides. Top out at the end of the main crack. FA: senri	V2	Boulder

1.3. Squeaky Beach 43 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -39.023040, 146.302092

summary

Bouldering at Squeaky Beach! An excellent location with soft sandy landings and a wonderful view. However, beware the hordes of tourists who congregate in the boulders.

approach

Park at Squeaky Beach carpark and follow the meandering trail down to the beach. Boulders are immediately ahead of you as you enter the beach. Approximately 5-10 minute walk.

This is a child-friendly zone.

history

Squeaky Beach is a popular bouldering spot and has been for many decades. The Eastern Victoria Guide only listed the more obvious lines even though every inch has been climbed over the years.

Therefore most newly recorded lines will be First Recorded Ascents not First Ascents.

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
2		★★ Squeak Crack	12	Boulder 8m
3		Bitch Boys	23	Boulder
4		★★ Trips In The Dark	15	Boulder 3m
5		★ Squeaky Corner	14	Boulder 10m
6		★★ Squeaky Mouse Step across creek as for Just the tip. Move up and left to juggy holds 4 to 5 metres up. Set: Michael Salt, 2013 FFA: Michael Salt, 2013	17	Boulder 7m
7		Slice of Paradise Start on the decent juggy crimp on the lip and move up and right along the lip, topping out on the Apex of the boulder. FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Jan 2022	V4	Boulder
8		★★ Just the Tip Step across creek onto small foothold. Straight up using small crimps avoiding jugs on the left and Frontal Lobotomy to the right FFA: Michael Salt, 2013 Set: Michael Salt, 2013	20	Boulder 7m
9		★ Frontal Lobotomy	17	Boulder 7m
10		★★ Squeaky Stairs to Heaven Kneel start on low flake/foothold, climb up nice pinch holds, avoid left flake as it is a bit hollow sounding. FA: Cody Gillmeister, 22 Nov 2020	V3	Boulder 5m
11		★ Squeaky Clean	10	Boulder 5m
12		★ Bubble & Squeak If facing 'Squeak Crack', heads up the back of the boulder on your right. Sit start low on flake, climb enormous jugs. Has almost certainly been done before, name made up for recording.	V0	Boulder 2m
13		★ Tourist Entertainment Short but steep overhang. Start seated (or crouched if short) with 1 hand on the lip and one hand on the sidepull/undercling. Punch up, traverse right onto good holds and mantel. Harder sit project is available. Start two hands on sidepull/undercling. FA: Jamie, 25 Jan 2021	V0	Boulder 2m
14		Potato Power Sit Start matched in the leftward-facing juggy hole in the middle of the overhang. Punch up to the lip and mantle. FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Jan 2022	V4	Boulder
15		★★ The pocket of Squeak Sit-Start holding the pocket on the left and pebble on the right as for Squeak My Nipples. Move to protruding good hold then move left on small holds and onto left side face using small crimp. from here big move up to pocket with left and finish. Arete is out below final pocket. FA: Dave C, 31 Dec 2018	{FR} V5	Boulder
16		★ Squeak My Nipples Sit-Start holding the pocket on the left and pebble on the right. FA: Hiro Nishikawa, 8 Feb 2015	V3	Boulder 3m
17		★ Squeak Traverse FA: Hiro Nishikawa, 8 Feb 2015	V4	Boulder 2m
18		★ Space Cadets Flying dyno onto top FA: Grant, 31 Mar 2016	21	Boulder 4m
19		★ Squeaking Mildly Located on a large boulder on the South-East end of the beach, with an obvious seam. Start up the flake/seam (crux) onto a slab, then up the seam above (easier on the left). Most likely a repeat.	16	Boulder 7m
20		Lost in Squeaks Located on a large boulder on the South-East end of the beach, with an obvious seam. Start off the block to the left of the seam, trend up and right(crossing the seam) to slabby topout. Probably a repeat.	14	Boulder 7m
21		★ Squeaky This Mantle Fun Mantle. sit start on good holds in the middle of the boulder. pull up and mantle over. FA: Dave C & Tom Hodges, 31 Dec 2018	{FR} V1	Boulder
22		★ Revolution Xenon Sit start with hands on the bottom edge. Go up to crack and incut next to the crack before topping out to the right. FA: Oscar Kearsley, 10 Apr 2021	V1	Boulder 3m
23		The Trapped Mouse SDS as for Mouse Trap. Traverse diagonally left making sure to use the slopers before heading to the slot. From the slot, move further left to an easy top out. FA: Jamie, 25 Jan 2021	V0	Boulder 3m
24		★ Mouse Trap	V0	Boulder 3m
25		★★ Slaughterfish Nice moves on obvious holds. Start standing on the lowest rail and move rightward on jugs then bust out for the great sidepull. Mantel from here. An extension can be done which involves another big move to a sharp pocket. Probably goes at a slightly harder grade. FA: Jamie, 25 Jan 2021	V3	Boulder 3m
26		★★ Sharkfin An interesting and somewhat desperate mantel. Start standing with hands matched on the lowest part of the juggy hold. Find a way to mantel. FA: Jamie, 25 Jan 2021	V2	Boulder 2m
27		Upstaged by the Pistol-Wielding Squid How could you realistically compete? Start as for "Slaughterfish" but move directly up. FA: Jamie, 14 Jan 2021	V0	Boulder 2m
28		Captured by Pirate Dolphins The treachery of the sea is evergrowing... On the back of the "Slaughterfish" boulder, stand-start with hands matched on the lowest rail. Bust up and over. Might be wet in high tide / high swell. FA: Jamie, 25 Jan 2021	V1	Boulder
29		★★★ Blowhole Start with left hand in pocket and right in crimp slot. Blocks below main face are out. May be wet in high tide. FA: Wiktor, 28 Dec	V3	Boulder
30		★ Levitation	14	Boulder
31		Megalodon Start matched on the low undercling at the lowest point on the boulder. Move up to the lip and traverse the lip rightwards until topping out on the highest corner (traverse 3 sides of the boulder). FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Jan 2022	V6	Boulder
32		★★ Hug Me Tenderly Slab Highball - RH on the Upward facing knob (LH any available hold) and smear feet to start. Head straight up and top out - be wary as good holds become scarce towards the top. FA: Brett, 30 Dec 2018	V2	Boulder 6m
33		★ For the Boysh Step on obvious pebbles heading out left towards arete then up. FA: Adrian Yeet, 12 Feb 2022	V0	Boulder 7m
34		★ Yung Rich Nation / YRN An alright line. Good view FA: Grant & L Baxx, 31 Mar 2016	13	Boulder 7m
35		★ Squeak and flop Start low in the crack matched, shimmy up, balance move to the right, with reaching pull on sloppers then slow top out FA: Nic jones, 6 May 2018	V5	Boulder 3m
36		★★ Wingspan Start with left hand on arete pinch and right on choice of pebble ~2 meters up the boulder. Find your balance then traverse left and up the arete. FA: Wiktor, 28 Dec	V3	Boulder
37		★★ Agatha Sit start on the arete. High left hand on the sloper with right hand crimp. Go straight up. Bailing to the juggy cave to the right makes it bit easier. FA: Jakub Juchum, 7 Apr 2019	V3	Boulder 5m
38		★★ Big Red LH starting on the decent RH of Hug me. Stand start and go straight up FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Jan 2022	V3	Boulder
39		Allspice Start as for Big Red. Traverse right and go up using better holds. FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Jan 2022	V3	Boulder
40		Warm Sun Sit start. Head straight up the blunt arete. FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Jan 2022	V0	Boulder
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1.3.1. The Slaughterhouse 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Chicken Heads	5	Boulder 4m
2		The Guillotine	8	Boulder 4m
3		★ The Slaughterhouse Traverse	11	Boulder 6m
4		★ Running Laps Circles the boulder endlessly	12	Boulder 10m

1.4. Mt Bishop 14 routes in Unknown

1 2 3

1 Elephant Rock 2 Mt Bishop Slabs 3 Mt Bishop Wall

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -39.017221, 146.320135

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1.4.1. Elephant Rock 8 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -39.015954, 146.319774

description

A large feature sporting some semi-decent granite. Warning: Only descent is via a fixed piece at the top backed up by an old tat threader. The tree is now dead and unreliable. Anchor choices are sparse at the tope. Consider a long cordelette (or better yet a static rope) to sling the huge boulder.

access issues

Make sure to get your permit to climb and walk off trail at the parks office before you intend to visit Wilson's Prom.

approach

Take a right to follow a climbers trail Just before the rocky area at the summit of Mt Bishop. A wooden seat is a good marker for when to turn off the main track. You'll see whale rock which is best accessed by scrambled down the right side. The short crack as you approach is Plankton (9) which you rap down to get off the top.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Plankton The descent route. Short thin crack that you see on approach. FA: J Grandage, R Pauligk & R Taylor, 1966	9	Trad 6m
2		Ambergris FA: J Grandage, R Pauligk & R Taylor, 1966	6	Trad 18m
3		★ Ambergris Variant Finish FA: R Pauligk, J Grandage & R Taylor, 1966	12	Trad 6m
4		Dicky Bark Dwyll FA: K Mollison & B Every, 1975	14	Trad 30m
5		★ Batten The Hatches Take giant rock ramp up to the ledge (unprotected). Can stay independent of DBD by using the R most runnel before gaining the horizontal and traverse. FA: Glenn Tempest, 1978	14	Trad 35m
6		★ Spermwhale Jaw Follow the jaw line L of Cachalot up. FA: R Taylor, J Grandage, R & R Pauligk, 1966	8	Trad 30m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
7		★★★ Cachalot Starts at the rusty carrot to follow an excellent flake all the way up. Can be accessed by rap or from the unprotected start of SJ. FA: P Treby & G Fitzgerald, 1969 FFA: Glenn Tempest, 1977	21	Mixed trad 30m, 1
8		One Out FA: K Egerton & I Sedgman, 1976	14	Trad 10m

1.4.2. Mt Bishop Slabs 6 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -39.016478, 146.318186

approach

Make your way to 'Elephant Rock'. Faint trail down to the slabs in front of 'Cachalot'. Can rap in via the anchors on 'Flamingo' (50m, one rusty carrot, one rusty FH, one new FH) or walk down and to the left (facing downhill).

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Within Reach FA: Glenn Tempest, R Smith & E Jones, 1983	19	Mixed trad 50m, 1
2		★ Adrift No protection! FA: K Lindorff, Glenn Tempest, E Jones & G Jones, 1983	19 X	Trad 50m
3		★ Grasping At Straws FA: K Lindorff, R Smith & Glenn Tempest, 1983	21	Sport 45m, 2
4		★ High And Dry FA: Glenn Tempest, G Butcher & G Hoxley, 1983	21	Mixed trad 45m, 1
5		★★ Flamingo Belay off 2 FH + 1 BR. FA: Glenn Tempest, D McLean & G Hoxley, 1983	21	Sport 45m, 4
6		Superslab FA: I Sedgman & S Abbott, 1978	6	Trad 200m, 4
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1.4.3. Mt Bishop Wall 0 routes in Area

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1.5. Turtle Rock 5 routes in Area

2 1

1 Backpackers Boulders 2 Tidal Overlook Slabs

Summary:

Top roping, Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: -39.024693, 146.318883

summary

This is not a major rock climbing destination apart from a gnarly traverse. Very popular with abseilers though.

description

Turtle rock is a very blank, hard, vertical slab. Wall routes have no protection. There are roof cracks on the very right of the cliff (has not yet been climbed). PLEASE WEAR A HELMET, there is much loose rock that is very fragile and that breaks off. Try not to break holds on the routes!

access issues

The Tidal Overlook track is followed from the Lilly Pilly Gully car park to Turtle Rock

approach

Park at Mt Bishop car park. Cross the road and follow the Tidal Overlook circuit. Follow right track when you get to fork. Continue up track until you reach the cliffline. Access to the top of cliff is by following the track until T intersection in track and going left to boulders and the top of Turtle Rock.

ethic

Please be aware when climbing on the main face of the cliff. A very popular tourist track runs below the cliffline. Try not to drop rocks and ropes on their heads!

history

First route ever done was only on 25/01/2015. Many new routes are waiting to be completed

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
3		Mutant Ninja Starts near dead tree, below small bulge. Climbs under bulge then to the left, above it, and on up. Rock is very fragile, wear a helmet! Could be harder than 30?! Set: Grant, Luke Baxter & Stephen Baxter, 25 Jan 2015	30	Top rope 25m
4		★ Teenaged Turtle Climbs to the top of bulge on 'Mutant Ninja'. Nice moves! FA: Grant, Luke Baxter & Stephen Baxter, 25 Jan 2015	24 - 26	Top rope 7m
5		Turtle Rock Girdle Traverse Traverse of the wall. However, the crack is so big you can squeeze into it and into the 'cave' inside.		Trad

1.5.1. Backpackers Boulders 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -39.024698, 146.318610

1.5.2. Tidal Overlook Slabs 0 routes in Crag

1.6. Mt Oberon 49 routes in Area

1 4 15 3 16 2 5 17 19 18

1 North Oberon 2 East Oberon 3 Summit Area 4 Communication Dome 5 Summit South Wall 15 Diosa Sector 16 Atmospheric Slabs 17 West Oberon 18 Shattered Dome 19 Bay Amphitheatre

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: -39.039417, 146.342930

description

Home of exposure. Even if the route is actually quite short, just take a good look behind you; over 500m of air below!

access issues

Access to some of these cliffs requires a lot of abseiling and bush-bashing. It is strongly advised against going to these cliffs. Please stay on cliffs close to the summit of 'Mt Oberon', due to the fact that bush-bashing is frowned upon by Parks Victoria.

approach

Follow the Mt Oberon Summit Track. This will lead you to where most routes are located

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
6		Delilah FA: I Sedgman, K Egerton, C Housten & C Houston, 1976	8	Trad 55m, 2
7		Deceit FA: I Sedgman & M Marsh, 1974	6	Trad 50m
8		Dancing FA: S Abbot & I Sedgman, 1978	11	Trad 35m
9		Tight Black Pants FA: K Strojek & G Hoxley, 1981	12	Trad 30m
10		Skin Friction FA: K Strojek & G Hoxley, 1984	18	Mixed trad 30m, 2
11		Skin Friction Variant FA: K Strojek & H Hoxley, 1984	20	Mixed trad 30m, 2
12		Quick Frisk FA: K Strojek & H Hoxley, 1984	13	Trad 52m, 2
13		Rags To Riches FA: I Sedgman, C Houston & K Egerton, 1976	5	Trad 35m
14		Octogenarian Grumps FA: I Sedgman, K Egerton & C Houston, 1976	8	Trad 30m
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1.6.1. North Oberon 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -39.035285, 146.349505

summary

Head towards the rock that looks like a trouser snake!

description

Inspiring lines, some choss, with some good quality rock in places. Some nice off-widths still to be climbed!

approach

From Oberon carpark, walk 200m up road, then follow faint ridge on right to phallic looking rock. About 40min.

where to stay

Tidal River

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		The Goo Right hand side of the rock, follow chossy chimney on the back and top out steeply on the headwall. Descend onto exposed slab and walk off. FFA: Kat Tree Gypsy FA: Kat Tree Gypsy, 21 May 2015	11	Trad 30m
2		★ Worm "A worm in your apple isn't great, but it's better than only half a worm" The obvious corner seen from the drive up to Oberon carpark. Reasonable quality rock and good gear up a sustained corner crack. FFA: Ruru Kraal FA: Ruru Kraal, 21 May 2015	17	Trad 20m

1.6.2. East Oberon 0 routes in Area

1.6.3. Summit Area 7 routes in Cliff

1 2

1 Left Side 2 Right Side

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -39.040237, 146.344681

description

‘Summit wall' is the situated directly below the Mt Oberon summit. The 'Right Side' contains good climbing; however most of the cliff is split by a rooflet about 4m off the ground which means that the routes are much harder than the rest of the climb because of the inconvenience. The 'Left Side' gradually gets larger and the wall increases in size. Beware of potentially hazardous loose rock on and above the wall.

approach

Follow the Mt Oberon trail to the summit. Once at the summit, walk left until the cliffline ends. Walk down the steep edge of the cliff until below routes. This will be the 'Right Side' of 'Friendship Wall'. Continue left past the pillar to access the 'Left Side'. Alternatively, you can abseil of the summit.

descent notes

If you decide to abseil into these cliffs; be aware of tourists who are wanting to get a little too close to your gear! It is advisable to try and hide any of it on a busy day. Beware of your rope lengths; especially on the 'Left Side'. On the 'Right Side'; be aware of the rooflet as it can catch you off guard.

1.6.3.1. Left Side 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -39.040086, 146.344694

approach

From the summit, descent via gully to the left. Then scramble down and right near a large boulder to base of wall. Alternatively rappel in.

descent notes

As per approach.

1.6.3.2. Right Side 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -39.040518, 146.344660

description

Scramble from the summit left and down to ledge. You can either scramble down the gully to the left or abseil in (sling a bollard).

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Mrs Mossy and Mr Chossy As the name suggests, written up to ensure others aren't tempted. The main weakness of the giant pillar that divides Left Side and Right Side. Step across to 2m of enjoyable climbing at the top. FA: Poppy, Shaggy Horse, Jen & Andrew, 8 May 2021	5	Trad 28m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
2		★★ Not Just A Pretty Face Difficult and awkward climbing at start. Easy face above. One of the better routes here! FA: Grant, 22 Feb 2015	22	Trad 18m
3		Just You and Me / Solitude Alternative start to 'Not Just A Pretty Face' FA: Grant, 22 Feb 2015	20	Trad 22m
4		Below The Line Second pitch can be linked into the first for a larger pitch. You can also lower off at the first belay. You will also need to clean it! Set: Grant, 12 Sep 2015		TradProject 2
5		Access Line FA: Grant, 22 Feb 2015	5	Trad 6m

1.6.4. Communication Dome 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -39.039349, 146.344874

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Big Kiss THIS AREA OF MOUNT OBERON HAS PREVIOUSLY BEEN RECORDED AS PANORAMA WALL (VCC EASTERN VICTORIA GUIDEBOOK) The line of BK can clearly be seen as the left hand skyline of the Summit of Mount Oberon from the campground at Tidal River. The second pitch follows the rib that is in actual fact the top of the huge flake obvious from sea level. 30m. Start below the right hand of two cracks in the wall behind the huge boulder at the bottom of the crag. Climb this crack over the easing angle and then continue straight up until a short traverse left leads to a block and belay at the bottom of a lightly vegetated fist wide crack and broken rib. 10m. Climb the crack above stepping onto the rib after a few meters. Continue cautiously over less perfect rock up the cracked rib to the top. Good belay in crack and small tree. Descend by continuing to summit track. FA: Karl Bromelow, Mandy Robertson & Kai Seth Robertson, 9 Jun 2014	13	Trad 40m, 2
2		Slippery Slide Starts as for "Big Kiss". Can be broken into 2 pitches to reduce rope drag (either at first crack after traverse or at the top crack at the lower rib). This original start eliminates the closing offwidth crack start. Start below the right of the two cracks in the wall in front of the huge boulder at the bottom of the crag as for "Big Kiss". Climb this crack over the easing angle and then traverse right over slab to join left facing crack (SS DS). Starts tending left up to horizontal break, and follows the water stain across small holds (slippery after rain). The route then joins the start of right tending crack just above the vegetation in the rib over easing ground for 10m to the lower of 2 old rusted Parks Victoria fence/sign poles. Belay at end of the crack. Walk off toward summit and join track. FA: Luke Baxter, Grant & Tayla Chrystie, Apr 2022	5	Trad 60m
3		Slippery Slide Direct Start Starts down lower, 10m right of "Big Kiss". Can be broken into 2 pitches to reduce rope drag (either at first crack after traverse or at the top crack at the lower rib). Starts at base of flake, up steep wall for 5m and onto easing angle continuing to follow crack. SS then follows the water stain across small holds (slippery after rain) staying left of the steep wall to right. Up this stain to join the right facing crack above the vegetation. Above the vegetation in the rib over easing ground for 10m to the lower of 2 old rusted Parks Victoria fence/sign poles. Belay at end of the crack. Walk off toward summit and join track. FA: Luke Baxter, Grant & Tayla Chrystie, Apr 2022	8	Trad 50m

1.6.5. Summit South Wall 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Aid climbing

Lat / Long: -39.041205, 146.344472

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Tropical Gully FA: Grant, 10 Apr 2015		Aid 50m, 2

1.6.6. Diosa Sector 1 route in Sector

3 2 1

1 Summit Cluster 2 Tranquil Walls 3 Summit Rocks

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -39.040098, 146.344187

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1.6.6.1. Summit Cluster 0 routes in Crag

1.6.6.2. Tranquil Walls 0 routes in Cliff

1.6.6.3. Summit Rocks 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -39.039874, 146.344263

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Miami Heat Set: Grant, 13 Sep 2015		TradProject

1.6.7. Atmospheric Slabs 0 routes in Crag

1.6.8. West Oberon 0 routes in Area

1.6.9. Shattered Dome 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -39.044800, 146.340311

description

On the slopes of Mt Oberon is Shattered Dome... Home to Wilsons Prom's adventure climbing. This routes require dedication; duthe that the wall is pretty intimidating; due to the walk in

access issues

Shattered Dome has very problematic access. It requires bush bashing (which is technically illegal - By Parks Victoria standards) and some descents. It takes a long time too! And lugging your heavy load of gear for hours on end isn't fun - but its worth it!

approach

Follow the Mt Oberon Summit Trail for the entire track. Then; walk left on the track to Legend Point. Follow this, either, onto the top of Legend Point and abseil off; or take a right when in the bushes and down the the base of the cliff. From this; negotiate the shrubbery and trees and make your way along the top of Guardian Sector until a break in the slabs. Follow this gully (roped?) down to the bottom of these slabs. [Or possibly abseil off a slab]. From this; continue straight and around the base of the far right side of Shattered Dome ; or go right at this point to come out on left. [There may also be a possibility to get on top of the cliff from this point?].

ethic

No Bolting. No Chipping. No 'Gardening' [Removal of vegetation].

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Project 1		UnknownProject
2		Project 2		UnknownProject
3		Project 3		UnknownProject
4		Project 4		UnknownProject
5		Project 5		UnknownProject
6		Project 6		UnknownProject
7		Project 7		UnknownProject
8		New Dawn Set: 15 Oct 2015		UnknownProject
9		Project 9		UnknownProject
10		Project 9 Variant Finish		UnknownProject
11		Project 10		UnknownProject
12		Project 11		UnknownProject
13		Project 12		UnknownProject
14		Project 12 Extension		UnknownProject
15		Project 13		UnknownProject
16		Project 14		UnknownProject
17		Project 15		UnknownProject
18		Project 16		UnknownProject
19		Project 17		UnknownProject
20		Project 18		UnknownProject
21		Project 19		UnknownProject
22		Project 20		UnknownProject

1.6.10. Bay Amphitheatre 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: -39.044019, 146.336976

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Project 1 Set: L Baxx		UnknownProject
2		Project 2 Set: L Baxx		UnknownProject
3		Project 3 Set: L Baxx		UnknownProject
4		Project 4 Set: L Baxx		UnknownProject

1.7. Little Oberon 45 routes in Area

1 9 3 2 4 8 5 6 7

1 Lone Pillars 2 South Norman Beach Boulders 3 'The Pocket' Alcove 4 Quarter Dome 5 Surf-Side Slabs 6 Eagle Slabs 7 Trackside Wall 8 Little Oberon Slabs 9 The Outpost

Summary:

Rock climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -39.045227, 146.327891

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1.7.1. Lone Pillars 0 routes in Area

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1.7.2. South Norman Beach Boulders 10 routes in Crag

2 1

1 Bumpy Boulders 2 Warmup slab area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -39.042151, 146.325421

description

An interesting variety of slab, face and even some (and potentially many!) overhung boulder problems. To access the furthest boulders its best to go at low-mid tide.

There were a variety of very steep climbs that were either too hard, in desperate need of a brush, or too difficult to protect that definitely looked possible if someone stronger/bolder than I were to try.

There is also a possibility of more boulders existing further along the beach than I explored

approach

From tidal river walk to norman beach and head south all the way to the end where the obvious beach boulders are. The routes are listed from closest to furthest from the beach line at high tide with bumpy boulders being right at the end.