Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Orange Tower (and environs) | |||||
18 | ★ Beatrice the Kelpie
Start: Start in dark alcove/corner. Take full rack of cams, including something big. Up to foot-ledge with sapling at 3m, then sustained layback up flake corner. Crack widens towards top. Continue up to ledge with tree. Rap off this. Start: 20m past big orange pinnacle. FA: Adam Herdman | 40m | |||
17 | ★ Miriam
Starts 2m left of 'Jimmy Joe' on Orange Leaning Tower. Up juggy scoops past 7 rings. Step right to reach Crack of 'Jimmy Joe' after last ring. Cruise up crack to anchors. Take a couple of small 1 and 1.5 Friends and some 2.5 to 4 Friends. FA: Gavin Murray | 25m | |||
22 | ★ Jimmy Joe
Contrived but nice. Moves up face between caves. Difficult to read. FA: Silver Fox; Gavin Murray, 2007 | 25m | |||
19 | Wingello waltz
An adventure sport route, good luck. FA: Gavin Murray | 25m | |||
Effugio (Escape) Wall | |||||
Ren Project
At the base of the gully, not fully bolted | |||||
21 | ★ Top Shelf
Start: where access gully hits ledge. Climb long wall past cave to anchors. FA: Renato | 15m | |||
21 | Combat Drill
Slabby route 3m right of RR. Fingery and sustained. FA: Vanessa Wills, 2008 | 16m | |||
random project
right of CD | 20m | ||||
16 | ★ Well done on the Rumour Mill
The corner crack to noice orange pockets to shared lower off. FA: Bundy | 18m, 6 | |||
16 | ★ Lightly Seared On The Reality grill.
Fun slabbing. Ignore the 2nd lower offs its a retro. Start: 4m right of corner crack FA: rod wills, 2008 | 15m, 7 | |||
Project - Dude
The right most route FA: Dave Filan, 2000 | |||||
19 | Scoppy Doo
Steep juggy route. Start: Obvious funnel below Efugio wall FA: kevin van Tilburg, 2008 | 14m, 6 | |||
Noli Ne Tangere Wall | |||||
24 | ★★ Air Head
The first route you come to after walking down the descent gully. Way out there moves above the bolts. Take a big pair of knackers with you on this fun jaunt. FA: 2007 | 20m | |||
22 | ★ Manbearpig
Climb slab to anchors above cave. Extension is still a proejct. FA: Jamie, 2008 | 15m | |||
23 | ★★ Crux In The Sun
The wall R of Buttocks FA: Mike Law-Smith | 18m | |||
22 | ★★ Buttocks
Start just right of the 'Caffeine' Corner. Bouldery start from rings on the right, followed by sustained balancy moves to the top. FA: Silver Fox, 2007 | 20m | |||
22 | ★ Caffeine
The obvious white rock. Hardish start and blast up the white rock on small but positive holds. Then over small roof to lower offs. The bolted extension to the top of the cliff is an open project - get on it. FA: Bundy, 2007 | 15m | |||
24 | Decaffeinated
The extension to 'Caffeine'. Goes to top of cliff. | 20m | |||
21 | ★ Smiley Face
Left of Cafeine on the darkish rock. Climb thru the smiley to the eye, up and over right. Under small roof to link into Cafeine. FA: Bundy, 2008 | 18m | |||
24 | Emoji
The direct finish 2 smiley face, continue up the rounded arete. | 25m | |||
Project - Vanessa's Lil arete -
The cute little arete just left of SF. FA: Vanessa Wills, 2000 | 12m | ||||
14 - 16 | ★ New World Order
The first climb to be put up at the crag. Start: Under roof on right of the wall. Climb up to cave then out left side. Tend right and up to stance and continue up long slab to anchors. Can go direct to first bolt. Starting beneath the first bolt of NWO, pull off a few bouldery moves to the first bolt. Direct start for NWO. FA: Rod Wills, 2007 | 18m | |||
15 | ★ Slip & Slide
Straight up slab through obvious scoop feature. 7 RB's to lowers offs Start: 2m lt of NWO. FA: Kevin van Tilburg, 2007 | 18m, 7 | |||
15 | ★ The God Delusion
Straight up through weakness to ramp and up slab. 6 RB's to lower offs Start: 3m lt of S&S. FA: Rod Wills, 2007 | 18m, 6 | |||
18 | ★ Honey Pot
Stright up thin face, onto slab then up. 7 RB's to lower offs. Start: 5m lt of TGD. FA: Renato Bombala, 2007 | 18m, 7 | |||
La Paz | |||||
20 | ★ Spondonicals
The leftmost climb on this wall of gold. Bouldery start (the block is off) to gain wall, couple more moves, clip, then its all over. Yay ! FA: Bundy, 2008 | 8m | |||
20 | Studley
Up past massive glue on FA: Simon Vaughan, 2008 | 8m | |||
Open Project
Start 2m right of studley. Up steeply then veer right up nice face to anchors. Set: Simon Vaughan | 15m | ||||
24 | ★ Vitamin C
2m Left of MP. Easy start then move through bulge to pocket. Head slightly left and up nice featured wall to anchors. Hard ! FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007 | 10m, 4 | |||
24 | ★★ Marching Powder
Start: under the 'column' of rock below bulge. Up column to break then through break past thin moves and some problem solving to jugs. Tend right on slopes and pockets to anchors. FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007 | 14m, 6 | |||
28 | ★★ Project
2m right of MP Bouldery start. Set: Simon Vaughan | 17m | |||
25 | ★★ White Robe
Back by popular demand at 25, could be hardish 24 FA: Simon Vaughan | 14m | |||
25 | ★★★ Monks Lunch
Bouldery start to an almost thuggy bulge to balancy headwall FA: Simon Vaughan, 2007 | 18m, 7 | |||
Simon Project No1 NOW OPEN
3m right of ML. hard start to reach black wall. Set: Will Watkins FA: 2000 | 10m | ||||
26 | ★★★ Imaginary Friends
Starts under thin orange streak. Stick clip first bolt then boulder up to break. Head left through bulge to gain pockets. Traverse right then crank up orange streak to final bulge and anchors. FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2008 | 18m | |||
Vanessa Project No2
Start under overlaps just left of the trickling water fall. Up series of flakes to steeper wall and up. | 20m | ||||
28 | ★★★ Cocaine
Start as for previous project. Head up to break then head right. Climb the sustained white face to underneath overlap. Break right through this and up powerfully to gain jug. Head back left and up to anchor. | 16m | |||
Justin - Project
One of the most prominent lines on the wall. Head up left side of white streak to gain flake. Move through this and follow water streak up headwall FA: Justin Clark, 2000 | 20m | ||||
Simon Project No.2 NOW OPEN
Start under overlaps just left of the trickling water fall. Up series of flakes to steeper wall and up | 14m | ||||
San Pedro Wall | |||||
17 | Chacaltaya
The 1st route on 'San Pedro' Terrace. Start: Ascend the ramp up to the launch pad or come in from the right and do the "Bard traverse". FA: Hawkman, 2007 | 20m, 8 | |||
20 | Edgar Pinkets existential crisis
The girdle traverse. Start up SP and tackle the entire roof crack to finish on anchors as for NHJT. Maybe stuff some cams in between the bolts if your a homo. FA: Edgar Pinkets, 2007 | 20m | |||
18 | ★ El Alto
The left most route. Up the slab and out the corner to anchors just under lip of roof. FA: Jason Lammers, 2007 | 12m | |||
24 | ★★ Club Andino Boliviano
Climb EA and punch out the corner of the roof. Up thin head wall to big fat U lower off. FA: Jason Lammers, 2010 | 20m | |||
19 | ★ San Pedro
Start up slab as per EA but continue directly up under roof to shared lower off with LP. FA: Jason Lammers, 2007 | 12m | |||
23 | ★★ Los Pinos
Thin balancy slab. FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007 | 12m | |||
24 | ★★ Saturation Point
As for "LP" and then move right after 2RB. Continue direct to anchors. FA: Hawk, 2007 | 12m | |||
20 | ★★ Pinger
As for NHJT then head left for 3 more RB to DRB lower off. FA: Bundy, 2007 | 12m | |||
20 | ★ Not Hungover, Just Tired
The climb on the right of the orange slab. Up wall tending right after 3rd RB to lower off. FA: Scott Hare, 2007 | 12m | |||
18 | ★★ Saturday Night Fever
Start 4m right of NHJT. Directly up thru series of cool slabby mantles. 4 RB to finish under roof on shared anchor with NHJT. FA: Bundy, 2008 | 12m, 4 | |||
24 | Corgis and Cucumbers
Start 5m right of ornage wall. Long, sustained and good. Set: Gavin Murray, 2007 FA: Glenn Jones, 2010 | 22m | |||
Willis - Project
Left of Orange wall starting on ledge. | 20m | ||||
Hawk Project - Stoney Roses look-a-like.
The Leftmost climb on the "Bard Traverse" | |||||
Rave Cave | |||||
18 | Gello Wrestling
Start in corner 15m left of the actual Rave Cave. Climb corner crack to rest. Continue tentatively up wall passed a number of spaced bolts and a badger or two. FA: Jason Lammers, 2007 | 25m | |||
17 | ★ Superior Physics
May raise a few eyebrows. A warm up of sorts. The short slab bolted on lead on the very left side of cave. Climbable in all weather. FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007 | 9m | |||
Honey Dicker
Start on Rope ladder. From big crack step left and up steep face. Traverse left towards cave lip to anchors. You can continue to the top of the cliff via three more bolts if your keen. Set: Dave Pryor | 20m | ||||
25 | ★ Hollow Men
Start as for SS, head left at 4th bolt, past project and up big holds to poor rest and crux at top. FA: Dave Pryor | 20m, 10 | |||
★★★ Pillows - Bear Project
Starts as for SS past the first 4 bolts to break. Traverse left along break then head straight up through bulges and scoops to anchors just under black rock. Set: Jason Lammers | 20m | ||||
25 | ★★★ Shape Shifter
A expatriate Victarctican originally checked this line out. He had the vision but not the commitment and left the bolting for ‘an enthusiasts’. Start up the rope ladder about 5m left of big crack. Mantle onto ledge stance then head straight up steeply through first roof to wall then battle body tension through second roof to scoop and anchors on right (so they stay dry in rain) just under big cave. FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007 | 20m | |||
26 | An Ode to “The Hawk”
As for SS, then follow hangers thru thin white wall on right. FA: David O'Donnell, 2010 | 20m | |||
22 | ★ Lunasphere
A great looking line marred by loose rock in the first 2m. Steep climbing with rests. Start under obvious overhanging seam. Batman up to first bolt then reach up and clip into the second bolt. Pull onto the holds to the left of the seam and head up steep crack. Head right then up to ledge. Head straight out above ledge then follow the line to the right to another rest. Blast the final overhung wall to anchors on the lip. 6FH’s and 3 rings. FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007 | 20m | |||
21 | ★★ Howling at the Moon
Start at right side of cave at small flake and rock cairn. Use rock cairn to gain ledge then head up through steep scooped wall to rest. Blast out the horizontal rooflet to gain the final pocketed headwall. Keeps going all the way. FA: Bundy, 2007 FA: 2008 FA: 2008 | 25m, 8 | |||
Nubigena Wall | |||||
14 | Formica
Up corner, step around arete and to anchors on slab FA: V Wills | 9m | |||
13 | ★ Loose Change
Straight up slab 1m rt of corner. 4 RB's to shared lower offs Start: 2m Rt of 'Formica' FA: Kevin van Tilburg, 2007 | 12m, 4 | |||
13 | Sidewinder
Up slab, step right at first bolt and follow Rb's up right side of slab. 5RB's to lower offs. Start: Middle of slab. FA: Rod Wills, 2007 | 12m, 5 | |||
18 | ★ Latin Whispers
Bouldery thin start, to some reach moves on big holds. 3 RB's to lower offs. 2m left of diagonal crack. FA: Rod Wills, 2007 | 10m, 3 | |||
16 | The fist
Fist crack. FA: V Wills, R Wills; Vanessa Wills & Rod Wills | 11m | |||
17 | ★ Survivalism
1m right of F, trending right following line of bolts. 4 RB's to lower offs. FA: Rod Wills, 2007 | 12m, 4 | |||
16 R | The sword
Twin cracks on face. FA: V Wills & K v Tilburg | 12m | |||
18 | Tom Tom
Climb through weakness and right side of cave over bulge to the top. 5 RB's to lower offs. FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2000 | 12m | |||
20 | ★ The Perfect Storm
Straight up through three bulges and obvious sccoops in the middle of the wall. 6 RB's to lower offs FA: Rod Wills, 2007 | 12m, 6 | |||
19 | ★ Nicks tricks
Up right side of weakness and over bulge. 5 RBs to lower offs. FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2007 | 12m, 5 | |||
Candy & Supa Fun Happy Walls | |||||
23 R | No Flys
The first route encountered after descent gully. Undercut start, cross 2 horizontal breaks, go right after first. Then up hand crack. Bolts are in poor positions as drilled by someone else. FA: Vwills, 2011 | 15m, 7 | |||
22 | ★★ Chasing Ghosts
Start below 'Candy' deck. Up slabby wall to break then tackle arete to top. FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2008 | 18m | |||
18 | RocknRoll Roger
Start as for CG to break, then directly up the middle of wall. FA: Bundy, 2008 | 18m | |||
Vanessa Wills Project
UPDATE THIS IF YOU HAVE MORE INFO | 12m | ||||
24 | ★★ Triple Figures
The little techo arete just left of 'Candy' FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2008 | 12m | |||
16 | ★★ Candy
Start under the obvious flake. Climb flake then up to ledge and long black head wall. Continue up this forever to reach anchors FA: Jason Lammers, 2007 FA: Bundy, 2007 | 20m | |||
18 | ★ Elektrobank
Start at short seem. Head up seem then tend rightward up wall to anchors as for BL FA: Bundy, 2008 | 12m | |||
16 | ★ Boiled Lolly
Start on wall about 2m left of corner. Short face to anchors. FA: Rod Wills, 2007 FA: rod wills, 2008 | 12m, 4 | |||
16 | ★ Wide Wet and Slippery
Start on wall just left of off width. Head up wall with some bridging and arête climbing. At top veer right to last bolt on SHC and finish at same anchor. FA: VW FA: Vanessa Wills, 2007 | 20m | |||
17 | sMile High Club
This route required more battery power to bolt than the hubble telescope has ever used! Start: Just right of the Off width corner. Climb slab past 4 bolts to reach flake. Continue up wall past a few arête moves to gain anchors under roof. There is a decent link up that starts up Ectasia for a few bolts then steps left and finishes up SHC and goes at about 20. FA: Adrian Child | 20m | |||
23 | ★★ Ectasia
Dilation or distention of a tubular structure. Start right SHC. Tricky unlikely slab to a nice orange wall and pumpy finish. FA: Vanessa | 28m | |||
23 | ★★ Fun Police
Up the orange scoopy buckets to long enjoyable wall. Climb left side of the scoop then through bulge to some sustained climbing. Shake out at the rest then head for the clouds up the scoops to anchors at the top of the wall. 11 bolts and a Thai style runner! FA: Bundy, 2007 | 30m, 11 | |||
21 | ★ Pura Vida
Start as for FP. Up for one bolt then step right to right side of scoop. Up this then hand traverse right to gain scoops just left of arete. Climb these to some balancy moves on the arete. FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007 | 20m | |||
22 | ★ Pure Life
Start just right of PV. Traverse right under flake then head up steeply to gain scoops. Climb this to join PV at 5th bolt then continue up to anchor. FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2008 | 20m | |||
23 | ★★ Asleep In The Light
Steep 'Arete' to lead into 'Pura Vida'. Tricky section down low then cool climbing up steep scoops to follow pura vida to anchor. Start: 2m to the left of Eurphoria FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007 | 23m | |||
22 | ★ Opium
Start up 'Euphoria' for a couple of bolts then move left and follow the line of bolts to top of cliff. Another long Euro Enduro. Note.. holds have gone from the crux. 24+ now. FA: Jason Lammers, 2008 | 26m | |||
22 | ★★★ Euphoria
Steep punchy start, to great wall climbing on nice pockets. FA: Jason Lammers, 2007 | 20m, 7 | |||
23 | ★★★ Supa Fun Happy
Start as for 'Euphoria', then tend righwards to gain the orange scoops. Climb scoops to steeper top section and anchors. FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2007 | 20m | |||
26 | ★ Ghost In The Shell
Start 3m right of SFH start. Up through undercut and into groove. Continue up through bulge then tend right to the anchor as for CS but don’t stop here. Continue above anchor tending right into shallow corner and up to the top of the cliff if you can still hold on. FA: Kent Paterson, 2008 | 31m | |||
23 | ★★ California Sunshine
Start up Supa Fun Happy move right after sixth bolt. Clip bolt on large flake then straight up passing 4 more bolts to lower offs. FA: Silver Fox; Gavin Murray, 2007 | 23m, 11 | |||
24 | ★★ Happy Days
Nice extension to California Sunshine. First moves are the hardest then it gets easier, phew!!!!! FA: Silver Fox; Gavin Murray, 2008 | 30m | |||
24 | ★★ Live Wire
Start as for SFH. Climb past 5 bolts to rightward traverse as for CS. Keep heading right to large break then head up through roof to headwall and all the way to top off cliff. There are lower offs near top of cliff or you can top out and use carrots to bring a second up. A good option for this route is to do a two rope jig ala HB on 'Welcome to Barbados'. Climb on one rope to the ledge rest then clip the second rope into a couple of draws and jettison the first. Saves you dealing with rope drag. A 60m rope will just get you to the ground (with stretch)if lowering off but definitely tie a knot in the end of your rope! FA: Bundy, 2007 | 40m | |||
26 | ★★ The Sweet Escape
Start off boulder 5m right of SFH. Thin bouldery start leads to pockets and a technical crux. Tend right at last bolt then up to the anchors just under break. The rock on this route is very grampiansesque ie fine grained and as solid as sandstone comes FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007 | 15m | |||
★★ OPEN PROJECT !
Perfect rock, awesome line - just too hard for most punters.. Open Project !! | 15m | ||||
19 | ★★ Laced with Crack
Start under obvious orange corner crack on right side of wall. This line sucks the smaller sized cams and a variety of wires. Layback up the golden corner to a steep finish. There are lower offs placed at the obvious stance at the top of the orange corner. FA: Bundy, 2007 | 20m | |||
18 | ★★ Drank the Slab
Drank the slab, Drank the slab, Drank the slab that Bon Scott drunk. 'The Slab' to the right of LwC FA: Bundy, 2007 | 20m | |||
24 | ★★ Mr Smiley
Climb drank the slab to anchors (don’t clip last bolt if you can avoid it to reduce a little rope drag). From ledge lean out and clip first bolt just below the big break. Traverse out easily then mantle onto break and reach back into overhang. Continue up seam and wall through two rooflets. A good airy pumper that has a bit of a reputation but the climbing is great. A climactic battle. FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007 | 22m | |||
22 | ★ Superman
Start at DtS anchor. Up, up and away... FA: Bundy, 2008 | 10m | |||
17 | ★ Iceline
The crack line, behind DtS. Finish as for AT P1. FA: V Wills, 2007 | 20m |