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Petrie's Gully

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Follow the river east from The Paddock, eventually crossing the Petrie's Gully tributary and continuing to follow the river for a brief distance to an obvious track. Head north on this, looking out for a cairn marking the start of a very indistinct trail which zigzags up the steep loose slope. When the cliff line is eventually gained, carry on northwards until a chain is found, use this to gain the next level. (If you reach a giant sandstone arch, you have gone too far north.) Continue north along the base of the cliff, carefully at times, until a scramble up can be made. It should bring you to Channel 9, with routes to the left and right.

Ethic inherited from Wolgan Valley

National Park. Trad climbing. Adventures...

Routes

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Grade Route

Left corner. After topping out of the crack, scramble up to tree belay.

Flake a few metres to the right of the Cool Tool corner.

Straight up the line of carrots (optional wire placement higher up). Ignore the scoopy holds on Scanner just to the right! Crimpy and sequency for those without reach.

Steep finger crack with offwidth start.

First pitch climbs up and traverses right (19) to the base of the crack (21).

Stay low when traversing onto the line of bolts. Quiet hard if you climb up into the hucos and traverse across. 2BB on ledge as you top out hard to find

FA: Wade Stevens & Nina Cullen, 2000

Follows the bolts up the ironstone bands and through the big scoops. Optional wire placement between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Tops out with 2 bolts just over the lip. Rap off tree in the corner a few metres away.

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