Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

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Ethic inherited from Wolgan Valley

National Park. Trad climbing. Adventures...


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Grade Route

Start: Ledge 25m right of sandy cave.

  1. 25m Corner and flakes to ledge.

  2. 15m Corner to tree.

  3. 15m Up to top.

FA: Mike Law & Pete Taylor, 1975

Start: Right hand crack 20m right of Gollum.

  1. 25m Crack then corner to start of chimney.

  2. 30m (17) Chimney and out to lip. Up corner to tree anchor.

FA: Pete Taylor & Mike Law, 1974

Start: 20m Right of Smeagol.

  1. 25m (11) Corner, bulge, overhang to ledge.

  2. 25m Chimney then to top.

FA: Pete Taylor & Mike Law, 1974

Start: 25m Right of YL.

  1. 30m Right crack to corner. Corner to large ledge.

  2. 20m (14) Corner to top.

FA: Hugh Ward & Howard Bevin, 1974

Start: 15m Right of WIAN?

  1. 25m Corner chimney to ledge.

  2. 25m (12) Left crack to ramp. Corner to chimney, around overhang to tree. Scrambling to ledge.

FA: Pete Taylor & Brian Ratter, 1974

Start: 13m Right of SL.

  1. 25m Crack to ledge.

  2. 25m (12) Gully to top.

FA: Mike Law & Pete Taylor, 1975

Start: 20m right of AR.

  1. 25m Up to ledge.

  2. 25m Up to top.

Start: 10m Right of AR.

FA: Pete Taylor & Wendy Hasling, 1974

Start 40m right of GGG.

  1. 20m Up crack to ledge and over roof.

  2. 25m Up corner to large cave.

  3. 25m (20) Over roof to corner and top.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mike Law & Pete Taylor, 1974

Start 5m right of WO on ledge.

  1. 6m Chimney to ledge.

  2. 24m Exit chimney and up to stance.

  3. 12m (17)

  4. 18m Corner to top.

FA: Rick White & Colin Monteath, 1971

Start 30m right of DM up on ledge 6m past tree.

  1. 9m Crack to ledge.

  2. 15m Chimney to ledge. Chimney to top.

FA: Dave Tanner, Eric Saxby & Sandra Cosgrave, 1964

Start 6m right of SS.

  1. Up tree, onto wall and up to ledge.

FA: John Ewbank, Robert Smith & John Smith, 1964

Steepness heading right. Short.

Start: Above rap anchors for Catch the wind.

FA: ?Stumpy Ed., 2000

Start 30m right of SS scramble.

  1. 12m (8) Crack.

  2. 24m Gully then left.

FA: George Owens, Ross Johnson & Alan Eagle, 1968

Start 12m right of SC at base of slab.

  1. 12m (7)

  2. 12m Up gully to chimney.

  3. 24m Chimney, slab, scramble.

FA: Ross Johnson & Alan Eagle, 1968

6m right of OA.

  1. 12m (8) Juggy slab to arete.

  2. Up arete.

  3. To top.

FA: Ian Gaskin, George Owens & Lucy Harrison, 1963

Start 25m TP.

  1. 10m (14) Crack to small corner.

  2. 10m Small corner.

  3. 35m Chimney then corner to top.

FA: George Harrison & Ralph Harvey, 1970

Start 5m right of GC.

  1. 15m Crack to chimney.

  2. 10m Chimney to ledge.

  3. 15m (13) Either crack to gully.

FA: Keith Royce & Fergus Bell, 1971

Start 60m right of S.

  1. 24m Chimney to cave.

  2. 33m To chockstone.

  3. 15m (9) End of roof and up chimney. Up gully to ledge.

FA: Ian Gaskin & Lucy Harrison, 1963

Start 30m right of DC.

  1. 27m Left hand crack to top of block. Traverse left to ledge.

  2. 21m (14MA) Up crack to tree.

FA: Warwick Williams & Brian Mattick, 1971

Start 25m right MM.

  1. 38m (19) Corner to roof then right past blocks.

  2. 18m Chimney then past roof.

  3. 20m To ledge and up chimney.

FA: Mike Law & Kim Carrigan, 1974

125m right of NRFC at the big chimney.

  1. 25m Up flake, over bulge then chimney to cave.

  2. 25m (18) Chimney to overhang, over bulge and up corner.

  3. 20m Through overhang, up corner to top.

FA: Pete Taylor & Mike Law, 1974

  1. 15m (16) Although it feels a lot bloody harder. Start over bulge then follow corner crack to tree belay.

  2. 42m (15) Up continuation finger crack to a small ledge before stepping left and following a wider corner crack to the top.

FA: Ian Lewis & Pete Moris, 1974

Start 6m right of NC.

  1. 30m Over overhang, right to arete, up to ledge.

  2. 45m Left to arete, up wall trending right towards cave.

  3. 7m Thin crack.

FA: Mike Law & Pete Taylor, 1975

Start 20m right of I.

  1. 25m (19) To roof then up to ledge.

  2. 18m Right along ledge to finish at pitch 1 of UC.

FA: Dave White & Mike Law, 1973

Start 18m right of UCSVN1.

18m Corner to roof, left to corner, around roof and up to ledge.

FA: Mike Law & Dave White, 1973

Start 3m right of UCVN2.

  1. 24m (13) Recess then up crack.

  2. 18m Right around arete then up broken rock.

  3. 18m Left and up corner.

  4. 10m Up wall.

FA: Allan Gordon & George Owens, 1965

Start 25m right of UC.

  1. 18m (14) Up crack to cave.

  2. 18m Crack to chockstone.

  3. 24m Up crack then scramble to ledge.

FA: Andrew Stewart & Peter Loder, 1972

A jaw dropping line. Walk from Newnes campsite on maintrail left of river for approx 150 meters then turn left uphill on obvious trail between two stone cairns. Wind your way up into a saddle and up and left you will see a large white patch of cliff. Break trail and mosey up spur to elevated platform just right of white rock and base of route (shiny bolts).

Starts just right of large white patch of rock, below prominent crack line. Bring doubles in the small size cams and a number 6 camalot (trust me , you will know when to place it). You can link pitch 1&2 but its a long one. If linking pitch 1 + 2 bring alot of everything.

P1.(20) Up to base of crack passing 7 stainless BR's then delicately up crack to small stance above good large wire at 25 meters. Belay is med/large cams.

P2. (20) Continue up crack 25m to semi hanging DRB. F.A built rebelay at next ledge though easier to just belay from semi hanging DRB.

P3. (18) Strenous moves to get onto wall employing small trees , up crack for a few meters then veering right on ironstone passing 6 BR's up to DRB on ledge. 65m rap from here to ground.

If accessing Upper Baldy ignore the belay at the top of pitch 3 (DRB). Instead, step left 2mtrs to BR , mantle and belay just above at new DUB rap station. (From here it is exactly 70 meters to ground).

FFA: Evan Wells & Marty Doolan, 6 Jun 2015

Start Approx 100m right of M.

  1. 44m (16) Crack then over bulge. Up recess and chimney, onto wall to tree.

  2. 10m Crack to corner then to top.

FA: Matt Dunstan & Roark Muhlen, 1974

Start 60m right of V.

  1. 9m Up blocks, right to corner then up.

  2. 9m (9) Up wall, over lip and up to corner.

  3. 15m Up corner to ledge.

  4. 15m Chimney and through hole in roof.

FA: Douglass Moss & George Owens, 1964

Access: Use Secret Swinger access track. Start in corner as for "The Chain", 20m left of SS.

Up TC about 3m to horizontal break. Traverse right (#2-3 SLCD) about 3m or so to obvious flake. Up flake (bolts) to big break/small cave. Continue up from cave trending R past more bolts then back L to bottom of flake system (hard). Follow wonderful flakes past bolts to small roof (#4 SLCD). Clip both bolts then up (hard) onto small ledge. Continue up shallow corner past more bolts to finish at the big tree.

Take two ropes to rap off the tree. There are about 14-16 "carrot" bolts with no hangers.

FA: Stuart Hickson & Linda Stanbury, 1994

Start 20m right of TC.

  1. 26m (16) Corner to cave. Possible belays into the cave on doubtful rock, or after the cave on better rock

  2. 30m Over roof to ledge. Over another roof then up corner.

  3. 18m Up crack to top.

This is a good route to access the 'Upper Cliff'

FA: Pete Taylor & Mike Law, 1974

Start 2m right of SS.

  1. (17) Up and trend right to crack above roof. Crack then arete to tree.

  2. Wall to top.

FA: Steve Moon & Nat Nicolas, 1983

Start 120m right of S.

  1. 40m (19) Corner and flake then around blocks and up to tree.

  2. 20m Ramp then traverse to wide crack. To top.

FA: Pete Taylor & Mike Law, 1974

Start 10m right of P.

  1. 40m (19) To block then over roof to scoop.

  2. 20m Crack to top.

A good looking continuous line splitting the face, starting above a low pedestal. The good jambing runs out at about 40m at a small alcove which makes for a comfortable belay. Could be done as one pitch if you've managed rope drag.

Length from rap/belay tree at top to ground is a little less than 60m. Good access to Upper Cliff.

FA: Pete Taylor, Ian Lewis & Pete Morris, 1974

Start 80m right of G.

  1. 40m (15) Chimney then over bulges.

  2. 20m Gully then short wall to right hand corner and top.

FA: Mike Law & Pete Taylor, 1974

Start as for X.

  1. 20m (17) Chimney to horizontal crack then down to ledge.

  2. 30m Left then up to top.

FA: Tom Williams, Adrian Teague & Steve Moon, 1974

Start 4m right of X.

  1. 45m (16) Over roof, up corner to ledge.

  2. 20m Up crack to top.

Nice long corner handcrack, take plenty of hand-size gear. Unfortunately the first move is very cruxy, and as always in the Wolgan there is some dodgy rock.

FA: Ian Lewis & Pete Morris, 1974

Start 20m right of RTM.

  1. 9m

  2. 36m (12) Left hand corner.

  3. 15m To top.

FA: John Miller & George Owens, 1971

Start 50m right of V.

  1. 35m (14) Corner to roof, traverse onto wall and to arete then up to break. Back to corner and up.

  2. 25m Ramp to wall then up.

FA: Mike Law & Pete Taylor, 1974

Start 20m right of G.

  1. 18m Chimney to roof then left to stance.

  2. 30m (16) Corner

  3. 10m Corner to top.

FA: Mike Law & Kim Carrigan, 1974

Start 20m right of C.

  1. Crack then left to groove and bolt. Up passing 3 bolts to break.Left and over block to bolt. Traverse right to bolt then up.

FA: Steve Moon, Nat Nicholas & John Smooty, 1983

Start 10m right of W.

  1. 25m (21) Corner to slab and tree.

  2. 35m Crack to wall and top.

FA: Ian Lewis & Pete Morris, 1974

Start 10m right of TS.

  1. 25m (17) Corner to roof then over to tree.

  2. 30m Corner to top.

FA: Mike Law & A.N.Other, 1976

FA: B Maxwell & J Croker

Start 65m right of TB. Up right to bolt then to crack. Up to next bolt then break. Bolt anchor.

FA: Steve Moon & Nat Nicholas, 1983

Start 15m right of C.

  1. 40m Up crack.

  2. 30m Back of cave and up exiting through hole to top.

FA: Rod Young & Phillip Armstrong, 1976

Start 20m right of M.

  1. 30m Crack to corner then up corner.

  2. 33 (17) Crack to roof, onto wall, into chimney then up crack.

FA: Mike Law & Ian Lewis, 1974

Start 20m right of A.

  1. Up and right onto arete then to ledge. To top as per TT.

FA: Steve Moon & Adrian Teague, 1982

Start 6m right of YY.

  1. 15m Corner to roof, left then up crack.

  2. 30m (12) Right crack and up to ledge.

  3. 24m Corner to gully then left to corner.

FA: Philip Julian & George Owens

Enjoyable face climbing. Almost a sports route with 6 bolt runners. Starts 2m left of Zarathustra (marked). Traverse 5m right to big tree for rap off.

Start 15m right of TT.

  1. 40m (15) Up corners to base of gully.

  2. 30m Up gully to top.

FA: Pete Taylor & Pete Morris, 1974

FA: Stuart Hickson & Giles Bradbury, 1984

Start 25m right of Z.

  1. 30m (18) Corner to roof, pass bulge to cave.

  2. 30m Traverse left to crack then up to corner and top.

The first pitch is 40m to a tree-belay. You can traverse 5m left past a short jam crack (just below the aforementioned tree) to the anchors for Liquid Sky at the end of P1, and rap to the ground (a single 60m rope JUST reaches on stretch).

FA: Mike Law & Ian Lewis, 1974

Start as for I.

  1. 25m 8m then left to cave. Trend left past flakes then traverse to arete.

  2. 15m (17) Arete to fixed peg at ledge.

  3. 15m Arete to top.

FA: Tom Williams & Steve Moon, 1982

Start 25m right of I. 40m Up crack passing pegs then right at ledge and bolt. Trend right then head to another bolt. Up to top passing bolt.

FA: Steve Moon & Nat Nicholas, 1983

Start 8m right of M.

  1. 12m Crack to ledge.

  2. 25m (21) Diagonal crack to horizontal break under bulge then up to tree.

  3. 25m Up slab.

FA: Mike Law & Kim Carrigan, 1974

FA: Matt Dunstan & Rick McGregor, 1977

Start as for S.

  1. 12m Dirty but easy off-width to the ledge. Can be combined quite easily with P2 for a mega pitch. #4 cam is useful, but not essential.

  2. 36m (19) The main pitch is excellent varied jamming through low-angle cracks and around vague overlaps. Bring a big rack of gear. The dirty off-width at the top is hard to protect, and the top-out is onto rubble and scree.

55m abseil from tree at the top of the cliff to the ground. 2 ropes essential.

FA: Mike Law & Kim Carrigan, 1974

Start 30m right of W.

  1. 30m Up crack to overhang. Through overhang, up to ledge then left to corner and two pegs.

  2. 25m (17) Diagonally to arete, up slab, back to crack, up slabs to top.

FA: Pete Taylor & Mike Law, 1974

Start 20m right of FP.

  1. 25m Short wall to ledge and chimney. Past roofs then left via cracks to tree.

  2. 15m (16) Crack then left to corner.

  3. 33m Up corner.

FA: Pete Taylor & Mike Law, 1974

Start 20m right of AR.

  1. 35m Up and into corner, past ledge, along crack then right to gully.

  2. 20m Up right, past flake to corner then onto small ledge.

  3. 20m Corner then up wall to ledge. Left to small corner.

  4. 6m Crack to top.

FA: Paul Edwards, Pete Taylor, Pete Jenkins & Owen Manley, 1976

Start 30m right of FF.

  1. 27m (22) Up left ramp to groove then scoop and bolt runner. Up left to ramp and peg. Up right past overhang flake.

  2. 27m Up wall then crack to corner then top.

FA: Mike Law & Pete Taylor, 1974

Start 30m right of TWW.

  1. 40m (25) stick clip BR cruxy up and left past BR. Up seam( piton, cam) all the way over bulge,then move L onto ledge. Sustained climbing ( good large wires, pr, br) up the upper section of seam to sloping ledge, then traverse right around nose up to belay.

  2. Not very nice and recommended. Up wall to large ledge. Left and up flake/ corner. Up to tree

FFA: Steve Bullen, 1984

FA: Giles Bradbury (with a rest), Steve Moon & Greg More, 1984

Classic almost-a-sport route with some wonderful sustained climbing and heartbreak crux right near the top. Stick-clip high RB then up sweet scoop past another RB to horizontal break (vital #3/#4 camalot - make it bomber, if it fails you hit the deck). Finish up wall above past three move RBs and a long runout to shared rap anchor with Top of the Pops. The bolts are weirdly placed so use long runners to avoid ropedrag. Route was rebolted in 2013.

FA: Giles Bradbury (23 M0), 1984

FFA: Paul Thomson & Neil Monteith, 29 Aug 2014

Start 20m right of TOTP.

  1. 25m (19) Corner, around overhang, up corner to cave. Bolted anchor.

  2. 25m Up corner to ledge.

  3. 6m To top.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Mike Law, 1974


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