Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

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Ethic inherited from Wolgan Valley

National Park. Trad climbing. Adventures...


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Grade Route

Start where Garbage Guts Gully reaches the halfway ledge.

  1. 18m Corner then wall to overhang.

  2. 33m Crack then traverse right and up face to tree.

  3. 6m Traverse over slabs to top.

FA: Ted Batty & Col Bembrick, 1960

Start 100m right of The Amphitheatre.

  1. 25m Corner to ledge then through overhang. Up corner to gully.

  2. 25m (13MO) Chimney to boulder. Up right to large tree.

  3. ?m Scramble gully to top.

FA: Pete Taylor & George Harrison, 1974

Start 40m right of Reunion Hangover.

  1. 15m (11) Up crack to tree.

  2. 30m Up to top.

FA: Ian Gaskin, George Harrison & Lucy Harrison, 1964

Start 10m right of Jam Boot Crack.

  1. 25m Slab then right into off width and chimney.

  2. 25m Left and past block, up slab then crack to top.

FA: Jan Aalders & Sherin Van Der Sluys, 1974

Start as for YED.

  1. 25m Up and traverse right onto arete. Straight up to ledge.

  2. 25m Descend via gully on right.

FA: Allan Potter & Wendy Hasling, 1974

Start 5m right of YED.

  1. 12m Up to small tree.

  2. 30m (9) Up groove to top.

FA: George Owens & John Ewbank, 1964

Start 300m Right of LF.

  1. 30m (15) Up to blue band, traverse left, over band and right to cave.

  2. 30m Up to left cave.

  3. 15m To top.

FA: Allan Gordon & John Worrall, 1965

Start 50m Right of Blue Band.

  1. 8m Slab to ledge.

  2. 38m (14) Slab from ledge, trending left to tree. Up gully to top.

FA: Allan Gordon & George Owens, 1965

Start beneath bolts on slab 80m right of The Slab Climb.

  1. (17) Slab to ledge 5m beneath bolts then right and up for 4m. Move back to bolts and up to ledge. Bolt anchor.

  2. Traverse left and up to ledge. Traverse right to bolt runner. Continue right then up to bolt anchor.

  3. Diagonally left for 15m to bolt then up to diagonal crack.

  4. Up to top.

FA: Johm Worrall & Dave Massam, 1968

Go up Wall route for 2 pitches to big traverse ledge. Belay on single bolt/horn/cam. Easy traverse 35m right to trees (not much gear!). Go up last two pitches of 'Sword of Damocles'. Beware of very loose and very big blocks at belay station at top of pitch 3 of Sword of Damocles.

Start 80m left of Old Baldy Wall Route left of three cracks.

  1. 21m (16M5) Up to base of corner. Up flaring crack to roof. Roof to lip. Up jugs to small stance.

  2. 40m Crack and chimney to ledge on left.

  3. 30m Crack and chimney corner to stance above blocks.

  4. 15m Bulge and up to top.

FA: John Ewbanks & Ross Templeton, 1968

1 12m
2 16 15m
3 15 27m
4 17 24m
5 17 22m
  1. 12m Up sandy corner to stance in a cave (1 old bolt)

  2. 15m (16) Exciting move for the grade out cave and up to a small stance (or run P2&3 together)

  3. 27m (15) Up crack and over slight bulge, continue to a stance at the base of a right facing corner.

  4. 24m (17) Up crack and over bulge to a small stance 5m above a small tree.

  5. 22m (17) Climb bulge and up the headwall to the top. Dirty and not much gear towards the top. Belay of trees and bushes back from the edge.

Can be done in 3 pitches by linking P1 & P2, and either P3 & P4 or P4 & P5.

FA: John Ewbank & Valarie Kennedy, 1968

1 18 35m
2 16 18m
3 17 35m
4 15 20m

Engaging climbing, with exposure and the odd run-out. Double ropes are good, Well protected if you can place gear. A good sphincter tightening experience for mutant latte drinking sport climbers. Rebolted 2007

Start: Start at the shattered pillar beneath crack on R side, which is 'Scimitar'. Shares start.

  1. 35m (18) Up crack then L and up wall past BRs to ledge with DBB.

  2. 18m (16) Wall, bulge, BR's to ledge with DBB

  3. 35m (17) L to thin crack and up, BR's, to roof then up to belay in small cave.

  4. 20m (15) Up and traverse L then wander on up via ledges and breaks to DBB on top. Rap anchors nearby for descent.

FA: W Moon / B Cameron, 2000

The right-hand crack line on Upper Baldy. Four pitches with P2 being the crux. Most climb it in two pitches but it was originally climbed in four. Start up the left (diagonal) crack off the top of the huge treed pillar (as shown in topo), although traversing the lip to the RH (vertical) crack has also been done. Once on top, the Stiletto abseil anchors (DRB) are only 15m to your left (west), it's 2 45m abseils back to the halfway ledge.

Start as for Scimitar. Up Scimitar or wall on right to alcove at 10m. Traverse right (2BRs) to anchor 1 of Knife of Air. Mike Law, Stephen Hamilton 1994

FA: Mikl Law & steve hamilton, 1994

Super sustained on carrots up wall. Thin and pumpy technical climbing. BRs are well spaced . Start 6m right of the scramble up route to Scimitar.

  1. 25m (24) Stick clip double BR above lip of overhang, then top-rope out to lip of cave and up the loose arete. Step right, up thin and pumpy wall (6 to 8 BRs) to hanging 3BB.

  2. 50m (23) The climbing wanders around in between the 10BRs. Step right, up rib to roof. Swing right along lip of roof to hanging 3BB.

  3. 45m (22) Up (10BRs, some hard to see).

FA: Michael Law & Mike Stacey, 1994

FA: Nov 2011

Start at second big corner right of Old Baldy face.

  1. 33m Yellow rock to ledge. Small wall, left hand corner then traverse right to bulge and tree anchor.

  2. 25m Scramble to chimney.

  3. 25m Chimney to chockstone.

  4. 20m Chimney to top.

FA: Fred Kitchener & Alan Bailey, 1962

FA: J Croker & B Maxwell

Start 200m right of Walhalla scramble.

  1. 30m (19) Crack to ledge then corner to ledge.

  2. 20m Corner then trend right up corner to tree. Abseil or down gully to the right.

FA: Rick McGregor & Matt Dunstan, 1977

Start 150m right of Dirk at overhang corner.

30m Over roof, up and through offwidth then over bulge.

FA: Ian Lewis & Mike Law, 1974

Start 40m right of TSD.

Up crack and left wall. Walk down the back.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1977


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