New crag out in the Wolgan. Andrew Penny put up a route back in the 80's at the far Western end of the crag and called the area Penrose Gully. There are tonnes of potential new routes out there.
Bolts are glue in stainless steel requiring bolt brackets. Cliff faces N/W. Don’t go on a hot summer’s day
There are no defined paths to the crag as of yet. The listed routes are spread over 1km of cliffline. It's easiest to get orientated as to where you are if you head to the left (north-east) looking at the cliff as there is a concentration of routes (Home By Six - "Flake-ation"). Some hundreds of metres to the south-west is another concentration of routes, Mouse Land - "Just Don't Be Weak".
There is an abseil point 2UBB approx 10m West of top out of The Badlands. 40m abseil to ledge, then abseil off 2BB 30m to ground. Descents of routes are listed.
All GR's for Ben Bullen topo map 8931-4S Drive 2.4km past the ford for Coal Mines Cliff and park in a small cutout on the side of the road opposite a gate, as the road bends round to the north. GR 430 221. About 50m upstream from the parking area is a broad fallen tree allowing a dry crossing. There is not presently a defined trail to the crag. The crag itself is about 1 km long. There are a couple of usable approaches:
Home by six - Flake-ation area: The steep, direct line will take you to the northern end of the crag. After crossing the creek head up the hill, reaching the Newnes Ruins / Glow Worm trail after about 5 minutes. Follow the trail briefly (80m) towards the Glow Worm tunnel and leave it to continue up broad spur till you reach the cliffline (20 min), hopefully noting some rock cairns along the way. After reaching the lower cliffline, head right approx. 50m until you can scramble further up with the aid of a handline. Continue up to main cliff line along the path of least resistance where you should find "Flake-ation".
Mouse land - Just don't be weak area: An alternative, slightly gentler approach will take you further south along the crag, reaching Glockenspiel Crack after about 45 minutes. Walk in as for Home by six - Flake-ation until you reach the Newnes Ruins / Glow Worm trail. Follow this towards the Glow Worm tunnel for 400m until a fence is reached.GR 426 21. Go through the fence and then follow the line of least resistance uphill till a small knoll is reached GR 427 214. Continue straight up past some huge house sized boulders to the cliff line which should lead you to Glockenspiel Crack.
Camp at the "Little Capertee" campground, or stay at the cabins.
https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/camping-and-accommodation/campgrounds/newnes-campground
"Old School" is the vibe we are after. Ground up if possible. Limited bolts, viewed as an extension of trad gear (maybe think carrots rather than rings). What's there has often been bolted by hand on lead, and should be assessed carefully before committing to it. However the classic "trade" routes have had bolts replaced with glue in stainless carrots.
First visited by Andrew Penney one day in 1984, when he put up the single route Zoser (including the installation of a bolt and the customary painted square and initial!). Fast forward a few decades: Marty Doolan spied the line of The Badlands from the road and checked it out one day with Hugh Ward. The rest is history.
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The Badlands - IMG_1561.JPG
The Badlands - IMG_1561.JPG
Thomas Giles at The Badlands - The Road To Hell
★★ Cries of a Whipping Boy 20 - 20201001_122429.jpg