New crag out in the Wolgan. Andrew Penny put up a route back in the 80's at the far Western end of the crag and called the area Penrose Gully. There are tonnes of potential new routes out there.
Bolts are glue in stainless steel requiring bolt brackets. Cliff faces N/W. Don’t go on a hot summer’s day
Down stream from the Coal Mines. Drive 2.4km past the ford for the Coal Mines and park on side of the road where is bends to the North. There is a good log to cross over, approx 20m up stream of where you park. Once you have crossed head up the hill side until you reach the Newnes Ruins/ Glow worm trail (5min). Cross trail and continue up broad spur till you reach the cliff line (20min). Some rock cairns along the way. Now head right approx 50m until you can scramble up through the cliff line via a handline. Continue up to main cliff line where the path of least resistance where you should find Flakeation. Otherwise you can continue along the lower cliff line for another minute or to and scramble up where its less steep. Its easier to get orientated as to where you are if you head to the left (North East) looking at the cliff as there are a larger collection of routes.
There is an abseil point 2UBB approx 10m West of top out of The Badlands. 40m abseil to ledge, then abseil off 2BB 30m to ground. Descents of routes are listed.
Park opposite the first gate of the old Masters property. Walk to the creek and make use of the tree for a dry crossing. Follow your nose up the hill. Check the pictures for Topo.
Camp at the "Little Capertee" campground, or stay at the cabins.
https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/camping-and-accommodation/campgrounds/newnes-campground
"Old School" is the vibe we are after. Ground up if possible. Limited bolts, viewed as an extension of trad gear (maybe think carrots rather than rings). What's there has often been bolted by hand on lead, and should be assessed carefully before committing to it...
First visited by Andrew Penny in 1984. Marty Doolan spied the line of The Badlands from the road and checked it out one day with Hugh Ward. The rest is history.
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The Badlands - IMG_1547.JPG
The Badlands - IMG_1547.JPG
★★ Acoustic Corner 20 - received_751819605600652.jpeg
Thomas Giles at The Badlands - The Road To Hell