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Description

----- Please read access issues ------ A 12m wall with good rock and astounding views of the coastline and of migrating whales in season. Kenny's Wall faces east, loses the sun about 1pm in summer. The taller (18m) slab wall on the right loses sun at about 10:30 in summer.

Access issues inherited from Scarborough Cliffs

Climbing in the Illawarra Escarpment State Conservation Area (IESCA) is not permitted except for the Sth and West faces of Mt Keira. This is written in a legal document, the IESCA mgmt. plan. This was formalised in 2018 and can’t be changed for a long time (approx. 10 year cycle). As of 2021, all Illawarra crags fall within the IESCA.

From the IESCA mgmt plan:

The west- and south-facing cliffs of Mount Keira are used for rock climbing and abseiling, and this has resulted in numerous bolted climbs and the creation of informal access tracks ... Abseiling and rock climbing are not permitted elsewhere in the park owing to risks to the safety of participants and other visitors from geological instability, damage to vegetation and rock faces, damage to cultural features and soil erosion.

• Rangers are not targeting climbers but if they encounter climbers incidentally, they are obliged to ask questions. Please be understanding and respectful.

• Historical bolted climbs do exist in this area, however the addition of more safety bolts could create issues with NPWS.

• Using online forums such as thecrag.com to register routes or ascents is public proof that climbers are actively disregarding the mgmt. plan (a legal document). It is not advised to register ascents at crags within the IESCA.

• Please don’t stash gear, NPWS staff are obliged to confiscate stashed equipment.

• Do not bring dogs into the area, if discovered this would reflect poorly on the climbing community in the eyes of NPWS. Be aware of other rules that apply to the IESCA.

• Hazard Reduction burns occur in this area at certain times of year. ACANSW will try to keep local climbing pages updated with information, otherwise look out for signs at entrances to access tracks etc. If climbers are in the area and a burn is planned it is a very costly exercise to reschedule for NPWS (helicopters etc).

• The land about 100m below the cliffs is private land, so please don't drop large rocks down the slope or walk down to into their backyards!

• Peregrine Falcons inhabit the cliff and nest in early Spring usually. Expect to be dive bombed then.

Approach

----- Please read access issues ------ Park on the side of the Princes Hwy at (GPS -34.2638, 150.9479) at the entrance of a gated maintenance road, about 1.5km south of the Boomerang Golf Course clubhouse.

https://www.google.com.au/maps/@-34.263839,150.9478714,157m/data=!3m1!1e3

Walk 600m east down the maintenance road almost to the cliff edge and turn left at the green sign for the Forest Track. Follow the track north-east, past a cool cave and a rainforest gully and informative signs and you will eventually come to a sign that reads "warning, dangerous cliffs in the area". The top of the wall is about 127 steps after that sign (further than you think). It takes about 20 minutes to walk in. You rap in, climb out.

The first faint track is 50m later for Obesity Buttress (Big Fat Fin Slappers). About 40m after that are 2 faint tracks for "Kenny's Wall". About 15m after that is a well worn track for "Whale of a Time" etc. Please try to avoid making the phantom tracks worse by turning off too early.

Descent notes

After the ‘dangerous cliffs in the area sign’, walk about 100m on the main track. There is an obvious track to the right, walk 10m on that track. If you are facing the sea there should be a very good ledge to your right. This ledge has two ring bolts as abseil anchors, these bolts are at face height. The rings are marked with ‘KW’ in white paint.

There is a large safe ledge at the bottom of Kenny's Wall to belay from. Best way to get out is to carry some type of ascenders and jug the rap rope. Or else send Ken again, where you will find an additional bolt in the block to allow you to climb up to the top where a double bolt belay can be found.

Ethic inherited from Scarborough Cliffs

Don't bolt cracks. Please. If bolting new routes please avoid squeeze jobs, linkups or variant starts/finishes. There is enough rock for heaps of independent lines. Go for a walk! For walls that are easily accessed from above, please set up routes as top rope problems in order to minimize the density of bolts unless there is a particular advantage to equipping them for leading. If your proposed bolted line comes within 3m of an established route, please ask the person whose route it is so as not to devalue their original vision.

History

History timeline chart

Development began in 2016. The wall was later grid bolted by the Hills in the usual squeeze job fashion in 2017. All variations and link ups have been done to death.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Left most line of bolts. Not enough bolts and wanders around like a drunk. Traverse in along the bottom clipping an appropriate bolt or two to prevent death. Head up to the cruxy top. Clip from the knobby holds as the slopers on the top are very difficult to hold and clip from.

Set: Graeme Hill

FA: Graeme Hill, 27 Aug 2017

Line left of dead Kenny. Again nice rock but you only just get into climbing when it ends. You can clip the anchors off the holds on the top edge. Only slightly more difficult than OMG. Could be easier.

Set: Graeme Hill

FA: Graeme Hill, 21 Aug 2017

Third line in from left. Start at the flake, clip bolts on the left, and finish on the anchors on the highest part of the wall. Lovely orange rock.

Set: Graeme Hill

FA: Graeme Hill, 12 Aug 2017

The original route on this wall and one of the best. All routes are graded relative to this as a reference. The fourth line of bolts in from the left.

Set: Leo Stanners & Ryan

FA: Leo Stanners, 2007

FFA: Leo Stanners, 22 Nov 2016

The fifth line of bolts in from the left. Start off the block and head towards the money shot at the end.

Set: Graeme Hill

FA: Graeme Hill, Sep 2017

The second line of bolts right of SFK. Start to the left of the first bolt off the block. The usual thin mid section. The move thru the blank gap at the top is a little different to all the others.

Set: Graeme Hill

FA: Graeme Hill, Oct 2017

Third line of bolts back from the corner, (including the corner line). Start from the ground. Thin moves to start heading up and left for the layaway. Cruise the middle using the classic mono-doigt. Easiest top moves on the wall. Well protected. Maybe easy for the grade.

Set: Graeme Hill

FA: Graeme Hill, Sep 2017

Second line of bolts back from the corner. Very thin start on micro foot holds that become more micro by the ascent.

Set: Graeme Hill, Sep 2017

FA: V Hill, Oct 2017

Line just to the left of the corner. Not as pretty as the other lines but will keep those who like the Big K snot & grovel interested. Up the corner for a few moves until you can establish on the face. A few thin moves some jugs and the anchors, what more is there?

Set: Graeme Hill

FA: Graeme Hill, Oct 2017

Up the dirty crack in the corner under the rap in. Go straight up navigating the loose holds and a few bushes.

FA: Mungo Skyring & Kezia Eyre, 10 Dec 2017

Line of bolts 1.5 m right of the corner that you rap down. Dirty and will be forever so. Better climb it while its freshly cleaned after the first ascent. Or bring a brush. Thin start that relents to easy jugging. Guess which climbs aren't 21.

Set: Graeme Hill

FA: Graeme Hill, Oct 2017

Nice with 1 reachy move. Black streak 10m down and R of the rap route (Escape the Dungeon), start at belay bolt. Left and up, loweroff and anchors on right at top

Mega-route, amazing climbing in the shade! Rap in to shared belay ring wall between Anthracite and Yellowrette with the big silly rings.

Cool moves up a good line. Wall and small arete 10m down and R of abseil route down corner (Escape the Dungeon). Start from belay bolt and traverse right to line. Lower offs or easily up to topout on ledge and DBB.

AKA "Highway to the PhotoZone". A steep, exposed, and well protected lip traverse. Start from the belay bolt for Yellowrette etc.

P1 19- Traverse right past the first bolt of Yellowrette, the continue right along lip past big rung bolt, further along lip and up onto ledge, 2 U belay above ledge.

P2 15- Left 2m and up wall and left side of arete to 2 bolt belay atop Whale of a Time. I used a short draw on the third bolt to keep the rope away from some ironstone.

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