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Whale of a Time Wall

6
AU
16

Seasonality

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Description

A 35 metre wall with astounding views of the coastline and of migrating whales in season

Access issues inherited from Scarborough Cliffs

The land about 100m below the cliffs is private land, so please don't drop large rocks down the slope or walk down to into their backyards! They can probably also hear your screams. Peregrine Falcons inhabit the cliff and nest in early Spring usually. Expect to be dive bombed then.

Descent notes

While on the main track, DON’T take the first obvious right that leads to Kenny’s wall. KEEP ON the MAIN TRACK for about 15ish meters, there should be another right track. This track is much more worn and used than all the other faint ones. Go right, walk 5m. The abseil anchors are on the ground at knee height. These anchors are looking towards the sea.

It's a 35m abseil and the anchors are set well back, you may jamb a rope so:- Suggested method: Take two ropes. Leave one as a single line for abseiling, this rope can be retrieved after you have finished the climb. You could pad the cliff edge in case you need to prusik out. The Whale Watcher's abseil goes straight down the bottom pitch of most of the routes. If there are already people there already, it's safer to abseil down For the Luv of Science (10m R facing out). both abseils are about 36m.

Don't do Whale of a Time unless you can all prusik. There are points where you could end up in space below a roof if you fall.

Ethic inherited from Scarborough Cliffs

Don't bolt cracks. Please. If bolting new routes please avoid squeeze jobs, linkups or variant starts/finishes. There is enough rock for heaps of independent lines. Go for a walk! For walls that are easily accessed from above, please set up routes as top rope problems in order to minimize the density of bolts unless there is a particular advantage to equipping them for leading. If your proposed bolted line comes within 3m of an established route, please ask the person whose route it is so as not to devalue their original vision.

History

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The first routes on Kenny's Wall and Whale of a Time Wall were established almost simultaneously but independently in 2016

Routes

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Grade Route

A fun route with some good exposure and good photo opportunities.

  1. 16m (14) Climb up to the set of double rings.

  2. 20m (16) Traverse left to the airy corner and up to double rings on the ledge. Don't clip the brown bolts, they belong to Humpback Sushi Roll.

  3. 10m (12) Up and around the arete onto the face. There are double rings at the top for belaying.

FFA: Dave Burt, Nick Roach & Jesse Bowker, Feb 2017

Abseil in off double rings about 5m north of the finish of Whale of a Time. You will arrive at a double ring belay stance at the bottom of the face. Climb directly up, cutting through Whale of a Time's 2nd pitch to top out. Two of the bolts have been painted brown to avoid confusion with Whale of a Time. This route has significant runouts and you may wish to toprope rather than lead it.

FA: Tim Booth, 4 Dec 2018

Start as for Whale Watchers and Whale of a Time. At the ledge, take the left line and continue up to cut through the Whale of a Time traverse and then to the top. This route has significant runouts and you may wish to toprope rather than lead it.

FA: Tim Booth, 4 Dec 2018

Start as for Whale of a Time but continue upwards, trending slightly right, all the way to the top. Put a long draw on the 2nd bolt above the Whale of a Time double bolt belay as you rap in (hard to clip and a bit runout, maybe some holds have fallen off).

FFA: Nick Roach & Dave Burt, Feb 2017

Nice climbing up airy arete right of the top of Whale Watchers. Rap down from Whale Watchers anchor, at 10m step into corner and right around arete to double bolt anchor. Up and mantel to top-belay on 2 fixed hangers on block.

20 metres further down the path, separated from Whale Watchers buy a gully. Route ascends the face 5 metres right of the gully. Abseil anchors set 2 metres from the cliff edge

Set by Matt Tranter

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