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Description

A small crag area on a North-East facing, just below and unseen from the Mount Keira lookout. Features a stunning pocketed sandstone roof and other wall types. No useful modern development, trad or toprope required.

In 1994 - "Good in the morning sun, and worthwhile for bouldering and top-roping, and not much else. "

Access issues inherited from Mount Keira

The Mount Keira summit park is an easy 15 minute drive from the Wollongong CBD. The park is surrounded by the Illawarra Escarpment State Conversation area and is covered in thick sub-tropical rainforest and eucalypt forest, and is open to the public all year round.

Be aware the vehicle gate to the summit park is closed and locked after hours.

Due to rockfalls in recent years some parts of the area are closed, though the West Face and connecting path (Dave Walsh Track) are declared open by the National Parks and Wildlife Service. See http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/illawarra-escarpment-state-conservation-area/local-alerts for details.

Approach

Start at the Mount Keira North lookout (the big lookout spot off the carpark), from here jump the fence East and head down the well worn ridge spur path to the East for a few minutes till you can walk around to your left (North) and reach the base of the cliffs below the North lookout.

Ethic inherited from Wollongong

Retro-bolting of established trad routes is frowned upon. There has been some controversy in recent years about new routes being bolted above tourist tracks. Please don't do this.

Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Consider bolting single lines rather than many link ups and eliminates, where there are established lines also consider the need to add bolts to establish link ups. It can often create an eyesore.

It is a privilege to climb in the Illawarra to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

History

History timeline chart

Chunder, Hill, Prehn, Ogle, Burton. Some original descriptions from ViBeS & Tucker

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Easy chunky moves up the side of the cave then a desperate thin runout above the carrot bolt.

Evidently climbed previously in the dark ages, evidenced by the rusted out carrot.

A poxy Chunder route. The arete 1m left of Gestapo Wall.

FA: Graeme Hill & Ant Prehn R Chunder

Start 2m left of gestapo Pox underneath poxy jugs. Up to ledge and nose to top.

FA: Graeme Hill & T Ogle

Short poxy and full of scum. Start 2m left of Dead Cat. Up wall trending left. Exit at top just right of the nose up there. A good grovel on the rounds to exit.

FA: Graeme Hill & Ant Prehn

Named for the deceased feline rotting at its base. Start 10m left of Pox on a Hot Thin Roof at thin crack.

FA: R Chunder

Start at the sandy beach, up through a veritable minefield of the sussest rock you may ever find to reach the main ledge. Gingerly move out towards the nose then through more suss rock to find the good hold around the nose to get scramble up on top of the nose and out.

A roof climb equipped with hoonkas (big farkin buckets!) Start under the overhang. up the orange crud to the good rock. Under roof to lip and out aroundlip to the small cave. Up corner to the top.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill & Prehn

A roof climb. 3m right of Pox On A hot Thin Roof. Up the choss to dyno out roof and up left and finish as for Pox On A hot Thin Roof.

FA: G Hill & Chunder Prehn

Start 2m right of Out Of The Blue Into The Pox. Out and around the roof and up to the top.

FA: Chudleigh & Graeme Hill

The black coloured wall left of the crack. 2 carrots.

Well it may have been a good climb once, unfortunately a lot of the face has flaked off and more is ready to go. Dangerous! A shame as there are some really unique textures and holds on this blackened wall.

FA: Graeme Hill

A classic crack.

FA: Hill & T Ogle

Chunky bouldery start over a series of ledges to the big cave to catch your breath then power on up to find the good holds in the vertical crack then move out left on the ledge to find a spider cave pocket to haul yourself up for a big finishing move.

FA: Ant Prehn & Burton

3m right of The Great Gastric. Grovel up the V shaped groove.

FA: Graeme Hill & T Ogle

Arete on right side of The Great Gastric. No bridging onto other wall.

FA: Graeme Hill & R Chunder

God save the Queen, if she ever tried this one she would need good fingers and strong finger nails. Start about 1.5 meters right of the large V groove of the Great Gastric. Up to the bolt near the slope then straight up to top.

FA: Graeme Hill & Ant Prehn

Bog it down man and blow it out your sox. The middle of the wall right of Mega Pox Wall.

FA: Graeme Hill & Ant Prehn R Chunder

A nifty little unit quite awkward. Start 1m in left from corner. Up past two rotting carrots.

FA: Graeme Hill & R Chunder Ant Prehn

Start just right of the corner opposite Poxy Loxy.

Right of Pox Route. Two meters left of the arete. Up just in from arete trending left at the top.

FA: Graeme Hill & Ant Prehn

Start under the arete right of The Smell of Dead Pox. Up arete blowing it out your backside on the way up.

FA: R Chunder, Jon Muir & Graeme Hill

A girdle traverse of Pox Buttress. Start in the corner at mid height to the right of Poxy Loxy. Head for the ledge on the arete and stay on that level until the last climb on the buttress head up this to top.

FA: R Chunder & Graeme Hill

Start about 1 metre right of Pox Buttress. Straight up to resting ledge. A one move wonder if ever there was one.

FA: Graeme Hill, Jon Muir & R chunder

Start about 1.5 metres right of Annette (Pox Free). Straight up to bolt above horizontal break and continue straight to top. No devious leftwards steps onto the resting ledge allowed. Protected by an ethical bolt. This is a bolt that you can slide out if it offends and slide it back in if you want to live a lot longer.

FA: Graeme Hill, Jon Muir & R chunder

Right most route on Pox Buttress. A couple of meters right of Strenuous Tenuous Turkey Route. This was the first line climbed on this piece of rock. Fixed hanger on top probably rusted away like most of the bolts on this crag. Straight up wall for the full tick but you can pike off to the left at around grade 19.

FA: Graeme Hill & R Chunder Jon Muir, 1980

Start on the buttress right of It Don't Mean Lots Unless Its Got Pox at the thin seam. More of a top rope or boulder problem but was climbed like a route originally. The first version moves to the left and then back into the crack to gain the top. Bullen & Hill added a variant which forces you to only use the seam rather than the piking step out to the left. This one is HARD.

FA: Jon Muir, Graeme Hill & Steve Bullen

Further still around. Nice slight ramp with delicate features. Don't use the chimney.

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