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The Lonely Boulder

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BLDV

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Description

Cast off eons ago from the mountain, hidden deep in the forest, waiting for someone like you.

Access issues inherited from Mount Keira

The Mount Keira summit park is an easy 15 minute drive from the Wollongong CBD. The park is surrounded by the Illawarra Escarpment State Conversation area and is covered in thick sub-tropical rainforest and eucalypt forest, and is open to the public all year round.

Be aware the vehicle gate to the summit park is closed and locked after hours.

Due to rockfalls in recent years some parts of the area are closed, though the West Face and connecting path (Dave Walsh Track) are declared open by the National Parks and Wildlife Service. See http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/illawarra-escarpment-state-conservation-area/local-alerts for details.

Approach

Park on Mount Keira Road outside of Mount Keira School. Walk 250m up the road. Just past the large tree with reflectors on it and before the fire station there is a bike track off to the left next to a 50km speed sign. Follow this for 950m (about 15 minutes walk) to find the large boulder just on your left. (Refer to OSM if lost).

Ethic inherited from Wollongong

Retro-bolting of established trad routes is frowned upon. There has been some controversy in recent years about new routes being bolted above tourist tracks. Please don't do this.

Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Consider bolting single lines rather than many link ups and eliminates, where there are established lines also consider the need to add bolts to establish link ups. It can often create an eyesore.

It is a privilege to climb in the Illawarra to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Routes

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Grade Route

Pretty sketchy as you will find out from what is left on the ground. Start both hands on the broken ledge, with careful balance reach up to a small right, then big left and up to the ledge. Very sketchy top out.

FA: Murray, 25 Jan 2017

Start low on the ledge, shift up the ledge. There are two ways to go from here, either straight up with your left, or sweet undercling crimp to balance then up with your right. Top out is difficult.

FA: Murray, 25 Jan 2017

Start right hand on the undercrimp. Delicate moves up to the right then grab the solid ledge and go for a powerful and fun dynamic move to the top ledge.

FA: Murray, 25 Jan 2017

Start on same undercrimp as Erupt but instead of heading up traverse left to the start of I dunno man... via the start of Machinations. Then follow I dunno man... up.

Start both hands on the side arete. Carefully shuffle up and along the arete. High heel hook and a scramble ensures to finish it off.

FA: Murray, 25 Jan 2017

Needs a lot of cleaning

Super low loose big undercling. What could go wrong? Needs cleaning.

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