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Description

The northerly annex to the popular 'West Face', but instead of sport routes there are various assorted boulders strewn through the undergrowth.

Long thought to be mostly a pile of junk, the area started receiving renewed attention in recent years from a burgeoning local bouldering scene, and since has been further accelerated by successive COVID lockdowns.

Access issues inherited from Mount Keira

The Mount Keira summit park is an easy 15 minute drive from the Wollongong CBD. The park is surrounded by the Illawarra Escarpment State Conversation area and is covered in thick sub-tropical rainforest and eucalypt forest, and is open to the public all year round.

Be aware the vehicle gate to the summit park is closed and locked after hours.

Due to rockfalls in recent years some parts of the area are closed, though the West Face and connecting path (Dave Walsh Track) are declared open by the National Parks and Wildlife Service. See http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/illawarra-escarpment-state-conservation-area/local-alerts for details.

Ethic inherited from Wollongong

Retro-bolting of established trad routes is frowned upon. There has been some controversy in recent years about new routes being bolted above tourist tracks. Please don't do this.

Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Consider bolting single lines rather than many link ups and eliminates, where there are established lines also consider the need to add bolts to establish link ups. It can often create an eyesore.

It is a privilege to climb in the Illawarra to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

History

History timeline chart

The area was evidently visited by some of the hard men of old time ago as evidenced by some carrots bashed in, but nothing of note was ever recorded save for the Nitro Wall.

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Nitro Wall boulder
8
237
4m
4
Book Boulder boulder
13
207
4m
8
Jam Boulder boulder
1
5
3m
1
Tick Boulder boulder
4
9
2m
1

Routes

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Grade Route

Squat boulder up the hill from Book boulder. Is a duplicate of 'Tick Boulder' - TO BE MERGED AND FIXED.

FA: 2020

FA: 2020

FA: 2020

~20m down the hill from Pauls Wall. Features the unique double pocket starts.

FA: Matt Hoschke, 2020

A nice overhung wall located about 20 metres to the right of the book boulder as you approach from above.

Sit start on with RH on nice pocket, LH crimp, move straight up the undercling flake with some sick moves to a suprisingly easy top out. Be careful of the razor sharp pebbles!

FA: Mark McGivern, May 2020

The hard Arête project to the right of Split Tip. Maybe V9-10?

Located somewhere on the main track from the West Face.

FA: paul rattenbury, 2020

The closest thing to a main cliff line in the area, as walking from the West Face.

Old carrot junk, though the head wall looks like an interesting problem.

'Newish' double ring anchor on slab. No info.

Old carrot junk

Old carrot junk

Old carrot junk

Single ancient bolt, looks like it could be done as a interesting highball boulder

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