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Routes in Mount Keira for selected grade

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Showing all 38 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
North Face
22 Nordwand

Start on the rock platform, up jutting features to the 1st ledge. Bridge corners to get to 2nd ledge. Now it gets harder - grasp for pockets and thin footholds to reach the diagonal ridge. Slap direct to the anchors with a huge lunge off the ridge gaston, or pike right and use the arete if you are not tall enough.

FA: 2012

Sport 15m, 7
West Face
22 Fade Out

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Desperate! Climb the scooping wall right of Extra Terrestrial Turkey 2 carrots.

FA: Ant Prehn

Mixed trad 5m, 2
22 Psychological Flame Out

As for TTO but left out the roof and up.

FA: Jon Muir

Sport 9m
22 Sleep Space Strategies

As for TTO but left out of the roof, then back right and up.

Sport 9m
22 TTO

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth . Start 2m left of TT. Follow the holds out roof and grovel over lip. Used to have a peg in the crack which has since rusted away and fallen out.

Top rope 7m
V3 Safety First

On the wall immediately to the right of The Arete By The Left Hand Side. Very thin up wall to the top.

FA: Jon Muir & Graeme Hill

Boulder
22 Halt FBI

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth A harder better version than the original. Start 2 meters left of Quadrille corner. Bouldery moves to start then straight up vague arete to ledge, continue up the easy ground to the top.

Three carrot anchor in small cave near the top.

FA: Graeme Hill, Jon Muir & Ant Prehn

Mixed trad 12m, 1
V3 Bowled Over

Sit start middle of wall. Left hand dimple pinch/side-pull (bowling ball hold), right hand finger pocket. Straight up and delicate top out left of middle bulge

FA: Jason Capenecas, 9 Dec 2020

Boulder 3m
V3 Hip Flexor

Far right side sit start. Start with either 2 side pulls in the lower crack section or left hand out on crimp. Get those starting feet dialed! Straight up and top out at plant

FA: Daniel McKinnell, 9 Dec 2020

Boulder 3m
West Face Boulders Nitro Wall
V3 Gassy bum

Start at same holds as 'Nitro Wall Leftside' (V5), then climb left along until you reach happy gas and finish up this.

FA: Bec Haisman

Boulder
V3 Caffeination Fixation

Head up the major descent gully before Nitro Wall area (heading north). At the path at the top of the gully head left for about 15 metres, you should find yourself on top of a wide, orange-streaked bloc. Head around to the left of that bloc to get to the bottom of it.

On the holds right of Sinn Fein

Sit start right of the arete on jug slot and small left-hand crimp. Power through some big moves on crimps trending right before a difficult mantle on slopers and delicate top-out.

Note: the starting left hand crimp has been lost to a fat boulderer. The start must use either the higher better left hand sidepull (easier) or go without a left handhold and use the original right hand (much harder).

FA: Brett Heino, 2012

Boulder 3m
West Face Boulders Book Boulder
V3 Mr. Marsupial Learns To Read

Matched start on the left-most jug, then traverse right with sparse feet to the crack and head straight up to top out as for TBOC.

FA: Zachary Tynan, 3 Sep 2019

Boulder 3m
West Face Boulders Tick Boulder
V3 Cheese Cake

Start matched as for 'Fish Cake', big move out to right crimp and then top out.

Boulder 2m
West Face Boulders
V3 Skink Eyes
Boulder 2m
South Face
22 Turkey's Testicles

[2012 Oct - new Lower Offs + xtra rb] Start 2m right of Speed of Life, left of the arete. Bouldery start at the flake then continue up the arete , then pulling left onto the wall for the final moves.

FA: Ant Prehn

Sport 6m, 3
22 Turkey's Testicles Right Side

[2012 Oct - Lower Offs + xtra rb]

Starts right, around the arete from Turkey's Testicles. Undercut start to ringbolt and continue up at arete. Make sure you stay on the right side of the arete.

Sport 6m, 4
22 Chunderella

A technical start. Up the thin wall past 2 carrots to the right hand corner, follow the crack to the roof then left to finish. Double carrot anchor over roof.

FA: Ant Prehn

Sport 8m
22 Unknown

FA: Ant Prehn

Trad 20m
22 Langsten Avenue

Start 1m right of Weeping Wall. Climb the arete at the groove and move left into Weeping Wall near the top after the roof. From the ledge move 3m right and up the dark wall past 3 carrots.

FA: Ant Prehn & Phil Pasini

Trad 14m
22 Mon Magoo

Varied climbing. Start down right of Advise and Dissent.. 1/ Thin technichal moves to start then up and right to under roof. Easily over roof onto steep wall and up to chain. Take 5 brackets.

FA: Rod Young, 1988

Sport 20m, 2, 6
Pox Crag
22 Pox

Easy chunky moves up the side of the cave then a desperate thin runout above the carrot bolt.

Evidently climbed previously in the dark ages, evidenced by the rusted out carrot.

FA: Ant Prehn

Mixed trad 6m, 1
22 Golden Pox

Start 2m right of Out Of The Blue Into The Pox. Out and around the roof and up to the top.

FA: Graeme Hill, Russell Chudleigh & Ant Prehn

Trad 10m
22 Black Pox

The black coloured wall left of the crack. 2 carrots.

Well it may have been a good climb once, unfortunately a lot of the face has flaked off and more is ready to go. Dangerous! A shame as there are some really unique textures and holds on this blackened wall.

Mixed trad 10m, 3
Lower Boulders
V3 Jungle Kitten

Starting at the left arete as per Jungle cat traverse along the rail to the right before exiting up the right arete as per climb #4 (the V2)

Boulder 4m
V3 1

Stand start on crimp rail, up and left to sidepull then top.

Boulder 3m
V3 Mantle Ray

Sit start on left arete and crimp. Power right and traverse the sloper lip to mantle at the peak. Very little foot holds.

Boulder 4m
V3 Pullman

Start left hand at the small picket then follow up for some solid pulling action.

FA: Murray, 10 Dec 2017

Boulder 4m
V3 Pullman Sit Start

Bum is the last thing to leave the ground. Climb into Pullman and follow to top.

Set: Luke, 22 Aug 2021

FA: Marcus Loane, 22 Aug 2021

Boulder 4m
V3 Chungsta

Sit start with left hand on the sidepull and right hand in the obvious pocket, move up to a slopey left hand pocket and then adjust feet to go into the crescent shaped pocket with either left or right hand, then pull up to a slopey topout.

FA: Alvin Chung, 29 Jul 2021

Boulder 3m
The Lonely Boulder
V3 Machinations

Start low on the ledge, shift up the ledge. There are two ways to go from here, either straight up with your left, or sweet undercling crimp to balance then up with your right. Top out is difficult.

FA: Murray, 25 Jan 2017

Boulder 2m
V3 Erupt

Start right hand on the undercrimp. Delicate moves up to the right then grab the solid ledge and go for a powerful and fun dynamic move to the top ledge.

FA: Murray, 25 Jan 2017

Boulder 2m
V3 Janpu

Left hand at low crimpy undercling, right on higher crimpy side pull, move up crimpy line then dynamic move to lip and mantle

Boulder 3m
The Lonely Boulder Bushman's Boulder
V3 Citronella

Starting matched on undercling near tree go up to left Gaston then right sidepull move across to the chimney and go up. Doesn't share any holds with Bushmans.

Set: Andrew MacKenzie

FA: George Broadfoot, Aug 2020

Boulder 4m
V3 Bushmans x Citronella

Alternate Bushmans line. Same start move but move out left to the gaston of Citronella and up the chimney.

Boulder
V3 Bushmans

Sit start matched on great edge. Big move up left to the two pockets. Then veer right to top out in the middle of the boulder.

Set: Andrew MacKenzie

FA: George Broadfoot, Aug 2020

Boulder 4m
V3 Aeroguard

Start matched on edge at chest height. Straight up. Either a big move on good holds or multiple small moves on bad holds

Boulder
Northwest Face
22 Terraforming Turkey

A chossy wonder for those needing steep roof training. From the back of the cave move out right steeply over dubious rock, the punch out across roof (crux) to reach lip and anchor. A fine line between the brilliant solid rock and sandy rubbish in the roof, be careful in choosing your holds.

FA: Murray, 10 Dec 2022

Sport 6m, 3
22 Retire Old

Complementary route to the original on this buttress. Start at the right hand side, up steeply through jugs, then set yourself carefully for a huge deadpoint to a nice sloper followed by an exciting (easy) runout to the anchors!

FA: Murray, 16 Oct 2022

Sport 10m, 3

Showing all 38 routes.

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