Routes in Wollongong for selected grade

Nice, delicate and slabby. Start from ledge in overhung corner, careful of loose stuff on the ledge then up the beautiful compact wall. Join "Car crash" for the last 2 bolts.

Start just left of the Bow Wave belay station. Climb the fridge-like arete then move past rooflet (big undercling) over the lip and up, staying about 3m left of the Titanical arete.

Double bolt belay. Sustained edges forming a cool sequence start this route until you reach a ledge, move right along this to mantle and then up. Theres a bit of a weird bit (bolt #5) where you can go left or right to get to the upper turret, and a hands free ledge. Move left to finish on the lower offs on the right side of the turret.

Classic! Start from the ground OR from the ledge (DBB) depending on dampness. If from the ground, start via tree to get onto the wall to the right of the first bolt, traverse in to the arete and then up to ledge. Past huge layback flake to the awesome arete above. From anchor there is now a second pitch, grade 15 or so, pass 3 bolts to get to the top of the cliff and another DBB.

Shorter route to the left of Jupiter

Start from the ground, bouldery to ramp then head left to scoopy arete. Keep heading up to balance moves on the primo arete.

Start as per Displacment.. you need to go left to the arete to access the break, then trav back right into the route with thin cruxy moves around the middle of the wall.

Weaves around the two monster roof sections on the left end of the cliff, with a lot more sideways climbing than up climbing. This route is mostly bolted, but requires a single set of cams for the upper pitches. A confident second is mandatory - bring prussics. Start about 40m left of Stop the Bolts! at ground level on top of triangular boulder. Look for ringbolts.

1. 25m (24) Scramble to top of pointy boulder, clip RB then bouldery move up arete to jug and RB. Traverse right along shelf and then up and right across juggy wall to break. Keep traversing 8m right to white rock and easy corner. At top of corner do one tricky move to large ledge under roof and belay bolts. This pitch is all bolts and if you pull on the first bolt it's only grade 18.

2. 12m (25) Short, steep, funky. Move belay 5m right to end of ledge and 2nd set of belay bolts. Mantle onto shelf and clip RB under intimating roof. Find mega jug under roof and lean back to clip 2nd RB over lip. Now reach to pocket on right and swing onto overhung prow with a hard move to get established onto face. Look for the awesome sneaky kneebar on lip. Up face (RB and #2 Camalot) to belay on mini ledge on right arete. It's possible to combine this pitch into the next pitch.

3. 17m (23) Left across face on desperate sloping crimps (two RBs) then up to major horizontal. Continue left then up crack through orange steepness to belay ledge at left end of massive roof. Medium and large cams needed for 2nd half of this pitch.

4. 25m (20) Look Mum - another traverse! Hard move to get past undercut start (RB) then traverse right for 10m (small/medium cams at waist level) above roof then up and right (RB) to vegetation band. Work right (RB) up mossy slab then negotiate plants to small ledge. Finish up slabby wall past 3 RBs to bolt belay in large cave. Exit via last pitch of Stop the Bolts! or Neanderthal.

Nice orange rock and cool pockets. The bolted middle line on the main ledge, 4m right of Stop the Bolts! pitch 2. Faint flake weakness up face (3 RBs), then a couple of hand sized cams to finish up fragile flake crack. DRB anchors on the right, shared with Cuckoo Dove Crack. Might be 24 if you're tall.

Closed project stay off.

Named after the abundant Lambertia Formosa shrub, otherwise known as the Mountain Devil, which is common on the Illawarra Escarpment.

The species name of Formosa also comes from the latin word for beautiful, after the striking red flowers. The Mountain Devil also has a horned, hard spikey seed resembling a Devil.

This route reflects the striking, beautiful, yet hardened nature of it's namesake.

Pitch 1 (crux) - grade 25, is an intricate, steep and technical line up impeccable rock. Don't be put off by the appearance of the rock ! Its super solid impeccable quartzy rock.

Single rack, Nuts are optional, plus additional 0.2 and 0.3 cams (at least doubles but there are options for more), 2 x #1 and 2 x #2 cams and 1 x #4 . 1 U bolt mid-way.

Start up the major crack near the bolted belay at the start of Pitch 3 of Two Boys One Skyhook.

After about 6m venture right onto the wall on super solid rock past many breaks to reach the major break below a high under-cling flake in a shallow corner. Bold but safe moves to gain great gear and rest.

Clip the bolt and head up steepening wall. Pumpy sustained climbing up the wall and finger crack to the right side of the honeycomb cave.

Place a crucial 0.5 AND/OR 0.75 cam in the slot at the top left end of the roof.

Exit the cave from the right up and right onto the headwall, then head back left above your gear. Continue up the wall past chicken heads, threads and large cams - # 4 useful.

Tricky exit to reach the base of the large ledge. Save a #2 and/or #3 for breaks. Use the fixed rope over left to haul up over the loose ledge to double bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 - grade 24, follows an improbable line through the steepest, most overhanging and unlikely headwall on this main section of the crag.

The rock is different and somewhat sandy. While not quite as high quality as pitch 1, 75 m of free hanging exposure and spaced but bomber gear ensures it has its own merits.

Standard rack plus additional 0.2 and 0.3 cams and #4.

Tricky moves up the steep flake right of the belay.

Traverse right under roof #4 and up to U bolt.

Pysch up and launch around roof with strenuous and hard moves between breaks and great gear with a slightly runout but fantastic-protected finish.

Make use of toe hooks and it becomes alot easier.

Start at jugs just left of 'Bored Gecko' start, traverse left and up. The correct finish is to bunch up into the small cave matching the undercling.

Starts two hands on the undercling, using a toe hook off to the right makes the middle moves alot easier, finish at the jug rail at the top

Dylan Hill

Straight up the slab located to the right of the punk cave.

Original grade was 24 but we think it could be a couple grades higher. Old guide description is to traverse in from the right at the upper sand pit ledge, but it is more conventional and accessible to just start at the ground as per Fizzgig. At the traverse clip the first bolt of Cheap Wine, then head diagonally upwards to finish as per Cheap Wine anchor.

Up the first 3 bolts on wallyard grave, then go right across crack into lip of roof and trend up and right to double ring anchor. (An easier variation can be done by going up the crack another meter before branching right, but beware there is a funnel web in the good pocket

Pull up to the undercling slot in the roof then core your way left 2m to the lip. Struggle to clip the 3rd bolt then crank over the lip and up to the 2 rings passing alot of moss as you go!

Start: Start to the left of 'One Blank Wall' under the roof.

According to the old guide book this could be the hardest route on the West face. The middle of the roof protected by ringbolts, left of the line of rusty bolts placed by Bill James years ago and as an aid route. Follow the break right past the rings to gastone in roof.

Punch it out past ring to pockets on the lip. Crank to crimper around lip following flake. Finish at break (No DRB anchor), or proceed through Jungle Of Death! WARNING - there is no DRB anchor on this route

Sit start on the arete. Up the lip to top out same as the next problem.

Sit start from big hueco/mega pocket, move left and up, top out.

The problem follows the righthand side of the arete from a sit start to a highball topout. Sit start with your feet in the large hueco at ground level, hands on the positive edge. Make your way up the righthand side of the arete to the airy scary launch for the lip.

Practising the moves on top rope is possible using the carrots handily placed right on the top.

Dylan Hill

Do Mr. Marsupial, but instead of topping out as for the V1, traverse the entire upper slab of the book boulder to top out as for TBBOE.

Sit start on jugs as for Keira Sutra, then head up and trend right to top out about 1.5 metres right of Book of Cracks.

Still on that damn toprope! Thin techichal face climbing. Start 2m to the right of Goo.

Worth doing if you have some skin you don't need! Start across the gully at the steep wall with the fallen boulder. Up onto the boulder then make a move to the pocket on the right, past the bolt. Crank left on crimpers and power to the diagonal flake. Crank up past the horizontals then onto the thin crack to the top.

Sit start at low crimp in the middle of the wall. Big move right to gain the crimpy ear, then join Pull-kun.

Stand start undercling on the flake. Snake your way up and right through more flakes & sharp crimps to top out.

Recommended to do on rope first, landing is not ideal

One of the best aretes in Wollongong and a fine goal for the allround climber.

Start under the obvious overhang in a thin crack, up into a wide invert crack and then traverse the horizontal crack to the arete. Place some good gear and quest up the sharp arete towards the bolts and crux.

All the gear is good and can be placed on lead. A #6 is needed for the bottom.