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Access: Do not walk through the Quarry! Do not park on their gravel parking spaces!

in order To keep the climbing allowed,
do not walk through the cement factory and also stop parking at the gravel place.

See warning details and discuss

Created 13 weeks ago

Access: REGISTRATION OF YOUR VISIT. Climbing is no longer permitted without registration!

Climbers must fill out a liability disclaimer directly in the Transbeton office on their first visit. There is also an oral instruction. read more about -> Alpenverein Vorarlberg

See warning details and discuss

Created 11 weeks ago
49

Seasonality

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Description

Mostly vertical or slightly overhanging face climbing on limestone. Some of the routes are crack or dihedral climbing.

  • Kid friendly: Because of the large and flat base of the crag, it's ideal for kids of all ages.
  • Morning sun: It's an ideal location for climbing on sunny and cold days because of the direct sun. During winter the crag is in the sun till approximately 1pm. In the summer, you will have sun till up to 5pm or even 6pm. Then it will be behind the mountains.

Access issues inherited from Lorüns

To keep the climbing allowed, do not walk through the cement factory and also stop parking at the gravel place.

Approach

The car can be parked as described at the main page of Lorüns.

Follow the bike and hiking path along the river Ill into the valley. Never cross the railway directly! Use the small path under the railway bridge which crosses the river Ill (starts just left of the bicycle path bridge). Follow the forest road up left.

Never walk through the Böhler factory or the Siebwerk Lörüns. Don't park there and don't cross the railway!

History

History timeline chart

In the past, climbing was prohibited at this sector. Lately (since 2009) it is tolerated again but it's recommended to keep a low profile and respect the locals and landowners.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

FA: Marco Wasina & Sabine Wasina, 2013

FA: Marco Wasina & Sabine Wasina, 2013

FA: Marco Wasina & Sabine Wasina, 2013

FA: Marco Wasina & Sabine Wasina, 2013

1 7- 14m
2 8+ 10m

FA: Marco Wasina & Sabine Wasina, 2013

FA: Marco Wasina & Sabine Wasina, 2013

a clean crag straight up after the last bolt from "Zipelklatscher". Nuts and friends are helpful. (BD C4 0.4 to 5)

FA: Marco Wasina

FFA: Florian Gritzer

FA: Marco Wasina & Sabine Wasina

FA: Marco Wasina & Sabine Wasina, 2013

FA: Marco Wasina & Sabine Wasina, 2013

FA: Marco Wasina & Sabine Wasina, 2013

Right of "Faktor 08", through the grey sinter and then the dihedral/crack to the top.

FA: Marco Wasina & Sabine Wasina, 2013

FA: Marco Wasina, 2013

start via "Die Gelbe" and after the secound bolt straight up

FA: Marco Wasina, 2015

Start at crimps and climb along the edge

FA: Marco Wasina

FA: Marco Wasina & Sabine Wasina, 2013

new and old bolts

FA: Peter Schäfler, 1989

FA: Marco Wasina, 2015

FA: Beat Kammerlander, 1987

FA: Marco Wasina, 2015

FA: Peter Schäffler, 1988

climb starts via "Riss" and leads to the right and up after the first bolt

FA: Marco Wasina, 2013

hard boulder moves the first 5m and then leading in to "Berg Denken"

FA: W. Muxel

FA: W. Muxel

FA: W. Muxel

starts via "Muxel Plättle" but splits to the left after the 4th bolt, and also includes a secound pitch

FA: Marco Wasina, 2013

extension of "Muxel Plättle".

2x BD 1, 1x BD 0.75, 1x BD 0.5

1 8 24m
2 8- 13m

FA: Patrick Glogg

1 8+
2 7+

FA: Marco Wasina, 2012

FA: Marco Wasina, 2013

FA: Marco Wasina, 2013

FA: Marco Wasina

FA: Marco Wasina, 2013

FA: Marco Wasina, 2013

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